THE  BOY'S  STORY  OF 

ZEBULON  M.PIKE 

EXPLORER  OF  THE  GREAT  SOUTHWEST 


EDITED  BY 

M.G.HUMPHREYS 


WIHBW«WIWIIHlltina»lirMi>M»WtBitWWJi»lBBtaC«MWB«PC^^ 


IN     THE     SAME     SERIES 

Published   by   CHARLES    SCRIBNER'S   SONS 


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THE  BOY'S   STORY  OF 
ZEBULON  M.  PIKE 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

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ZEBULON   M.   PIKE. 


THE  BOY'S  STORY 

OF 

ZEBULON  M.  PIKE 


EDITED   BY 

MARY  GAY   HUMPHREYS 


ILLUSTRATED 


NEW  YORK 

CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS 

1911 


Copyright,  191  i,  by 
CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS 


Published  August,  191 1 


PREFACE 

This  story  of  the  explorations  of  Zebulon  M.  Pike  is  based 
upon  his  diary  and  reports;  the  excellent  edition  of  Dr.  El- 
liott Coues  has  been  freely  conisulted,  without,  however, 
accepting  either  his  conclusions  or  inferences. 

Wherever  the  diary  deals  merely  with  the  day's  routine,  this 
has  been  condensed  into  connecting  paragraphs  with  explana- 
tory matter.  This  method  has  been  preferred  to  footnotes, 
which,  owing  to  Pike's  brevity  in  statement,  would  otherwise 
have  been  necessary. 

Also,  in  order  to  present  a  consecutive  narrative,  anecdotes, 
customs  and  habits  of  the  peoples  which  he  encountered,  in- 
teresting details  of  the  country  through  which  he  passed  have 
been  severed  from  the  appendices,  where  they  were  placed  by 
the  explorer,  and  added  to  the  diary,  wherever,  in  point  of 
time,  they  belong. 

In  reading  this  modest  record  of  courage,  endurance,  and 
of  duty  faithfully  performed,  the  character  of  Pike  as  soldier 
and  man  is  unconsciously  presented.  No  more  admirable  fig- 
ure in  the  history  of  this  country  could  be  offered  to  the  boys 
of  America  for  emulation  and  inspiration  than  that  of  this 
young  soldier,  who  at  the  early  age  of  thirty-four  at  last  laid 
down  his  Hfe  for  the  country  he  had  loved  so  dearly  and  served 
so  well.  In  preparing  the  biographical  sketch,  the  biographies 
by  General  A.  W.  Greeley  and  by  General  Henry  Whiting 
have  been  consulted. 

Mary  Gay  Humphreys. 


M545692 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTEK  PAGE 

Biographical  Sketch ix 

I.    St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul       3 

II.    St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake 32 

III.  Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis 74 

IV.  The  Arkansas  Journey 134 

V.    Through  Kansas  and  Colorado  to  Pike*s 

Peak 189 

VI.    In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado 220 

VII.    Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso  ....  263 

VIII.    Through    Old    Mexico    to    the    Presidio 

Grande 305 

IX.    Through  Texas  to  Louisiana 343 

Index 373 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Zebulon  M.  Pike Frontispiece 

FACING  PAGE 

"Some  of  Them  Even  Tried  Their  Dexterity,  to 

See  How  Near  the  Boat  They  Could  Strike"       i8 

Sioux  Village — on  St.  Peter's  River 30 

From  a  painting  by  Catlin. 

Curious  Grassy  Bluffs — St.  Peter's  River       .     .      70 
Sioux  Village — on  Swan  Lake       .......      90 

From  a  painting  by  Catlin. 

Falls  of  St.  Anthony — Upper  Mississippi      .    .     .110 

From  a  painting  by  Catlin. 

Pike's  Tent,  the   Most  Elevated  Bluff  on  the 

Mississippi — opposite  Prairie  du  Chien      .     .     120 
From  a  painting  by  Catlin. 

Indian  Village 140 

From  a  painting  by  Catlin. 

Fac-simile  of  Autograph  Letter  from  General 
Pike  to  the  Hon.  Henry  Dearborne,  Secre- 
tary OF  War 180 

Pike's  Peak— from  near  Manitou  Park     .    .    .    .    218 

"Labored  All  Day,  but  Made  Only  One  Mile  "  .    .    234 

War-dance  of  the  Apaches 280 

From  a  painting  by  Catlin. 

ix 


X  Illustrations 


FACING  PAGE 


Apache  Archery 296 

From  a  painting  by  Catlin. 

"When  We  Arrived  at  Chihuahua,  We  Pursued 
Our  Course  Through  the  Town  to  the  House 
OF  THE  General" 308 

Victory  of  York,  U.  C. — Death  of  General  Pike  .     340 

From  a  contemporaneous  print  in  the  N.  Y.  Public  Library. 

Monument  Over  the  Grave  of  General  Pike  at 

Sackett's  Harbor,  N.  Y 368 


MAP 

PAGB 

Map  of  Pike's  Explorations  .........        2 

The  dotted  lines  show  the  routes  followed  on  the  several 
expeditions. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH 

"First:   Preserve  your  honor  free  from  blemish. 

"Second:   Be  always  ready  to  die  for  your  country." 

These  words  were  found  on  the  blank  page  of  an  unfamiliar 
work,  "  Dodsley's  Economy  of  Human  Life,"  which  Pike  al- 
ways carried  with  him.  In  a  memorandum  on  the  same  page 
he  desired  that  they  be  kept  before  his  young  son  as  "he  rises 
from  youth  to  manhood."  That  these  maxims  were  illustrated 
in  his  own  life,  and  were  fulfilled  in  his  death  this  book  will 
show. 

Zebulon  Montgomery  Pike  was  bom  of  a  race  of  military 
men,  and  at  a  time  when  the  causes  that  brought  about  the 
Revolution  still  kindled  the  hearts  of  men.  An  earlier  Cap- 
tain John  Pike  was  a  famous  Indian  fighter.  Zebulon  Pike, 
his  father,  was  a  captain  of  infantry  in  the  Revolution,  and 
again  in  the  levies  of  179 1,  remaining  in  the  army  of  the  United 
States  until  18 15,  when  as  lieutenant-colonel  he  was  honorably 
discharged. 

Zebulon  Montgomery  Pike,  was  bom  at  Lamberton,  New 
Jersey,  a  suburb  of  Trenton,  January  5,  1779.  While  a  child 
his  family  removed  to  Bucks  County,  Pennsylvania,  near  the 
Delaware  River,  and  from  thence  to  Easton.  Zebulon  Pike 
is  described  as  a  boy  of  slender  form,  very  fair,  gentle  and  re- 
tiring in  disposition,  but  of  resolute  spirit.  He  had  only  a  com- 
mon-school education.  One  of  his  teachers  was  a  Mr.  Wall, 
with  whom  he  studied  latin  and  mathematics.     But  as  his 


xii  Biographical  Sketch 

diary  shows,  and  as  his  comrades  in  arms  testify,  Pike  was  a 
student  in  camp  and  on  the  trail  to  the  end  of  his  days. 

At  fifteen  he  entered  as  a  cadet,  as  it  was  then  termed,  his 
father's  regiment,  then  stationed  in  the  territory  of  Indiana, 
and  received  his  first  promotion  as  Ensign,  March  3rd,  1799, 
at  the  age  of  twenty.  He  is  described  by  a  brother  officer  at 
Camp  Allegheny  at  this  time  as  about  five  feet,  eight  inches  tall 
and  sturdy  and  robust  for  his  age.  His  appearance  was  mili- 
tary, yet  he  generally  held  his  head  so  much  on  one  side  that 
when  on  parade  the  tip  of  his  chapeau  touched  his  right  shoul- 
der. He  was  agreeable  in  manner,  even  polished,  but  re- 
served in  conversation,  unless  on  some  topic  in  which  he  was 
specially  interested.  He  was  a  strict  disciplinarian,  and  his 
rapid  decision  in  emergencies  frequently  forestalled  what  other- 
wise would  have  resulted  in  the  more  tedious  process  of  a 
court-martial. 

It  was  during  this  period  that  as  the  troops  were  transferred 
in  flat  boats  down  the  Ohio  River  from  Camp  Allegheny  to  Fort 
Massac,  at  the  junction  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers, 
he  obtained  a  furlough  at  Cincinnati.  Here  on  what  one  of 
his  brother  officers  termed  Pike's  "matrimonial  expedition" 
he  was  married  to  Clarissa  Brown,  the  daughter  of  General 
John  Brown,  of  Kentucky.  To  the  young  couple  were  given 
three  daughters  and  one  son — the  latter,  to  whom  the  maxims 
were  dedicated,  died  while  a  child.  Only  one  of  the  daughters 
lived  to  womanhood,  Clarissa  Harlowe  Pike,  who  married 
John  Cleve  Symmes  Harrison,  the  son  of  President  William 
Henry  Harrison.  She  died  still  young,  but  her  mother,  Mrs. 
Pike,  is  remembered  as  a  tall,  dignified,  rather  austere  woman, 
very  accomplished,  keeping  her  diary  in  French,  and  always 
wearing  a  black  Canton  crape  shawl,  and  a  black  crape  turban. 

It  was  as  first  lieutenant  of  the  ist  Infantry  that  Pike  was 


Biographical  Sketch  xiii 

detailed  for  detached  service,  and  reported  to  the  head-quarters 
of  the  commanding  general  at  St.  Louis,  in  1805.  This  selec- 
tion of  a  young  man  of  twenty-six,  for  the  exploration  of  the 
Mississippi  River  is  evidence  that  his  qualities  must  have  at- 
tracted attention.  At  this  time  there  was  no  definite  knowledge 
of  the  Louisiana  territory,  in  its  northwestern  part.  President 
Jefferson  had  asked  of  Napoleon  the  city  of  New  Orleans,  and 
he  had  received  an  empire.  The  area  of  the  United  States  by 
the  stroke  of  a  pen  had  been  doubled.  But  instead  of  spending 
two  millions,  Jefferson  had  spent  fifteen  millions.  Having  in- 
vested the  people's  money  in  this  vast  territory,  it  now  became 
necessary  to  find  out  what  sort  of  bargain  he  had  made  with 
Napoleon.  Lewis  and  Clark  were  sent  to  the  Far  West,  and  a 
second  expedition  was  now  organized  by  the  commander-in- 
chief  of  the  army.  General  Wilkinson,  which  was  to  be  strictly 
military  in  purpose  and  method,  and  to  assert  the  authority  of 
the  United  States,  not  only  over  the  unknown  Indian  tribes 
of  that  region,  but  over  the  adventurous  traders  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  and  Northwest  Companies. 

"In  the  execution  of  this  voyage,"  he  afterward  wrote,  "I 
had  no  gentleman  to  aid  me,  and  I  literally  performed  the  duties 
(as  far  as  my  limited  abilities  permitted)  of  astronomer,  sur- 
veyor, commanding  officer,  clerk,  spy,  hunter,  and  guide;  fre- 
quently preceding  the  party  for  miles,  in  order  to  reconnoiter, 
and  returning  in  the  evening,  to  sit  down  in  the  open  air,  by 
firelight  to  copy  the  notes,  and  plot  the  courses  of  the  day." 
Concerning  the  details  of  this  expedition  and  that  of  the  South- 
west the  diaries  tell  their  own  story,  and  on  these  we  need  not 
dwell. 

When  Pike  returned  from  his  second  expedition  he  found  that 
his  relations  with  General  Wilkinson,  who  had  become  involved 
in  the  conspiracy  of  Aaron  Burr,  had  come  unpleasantly  before 


XIV  Biographical  Sketch 

Congress.  Hastening  to  Washington  he  addressed  an  im- 
passioned letter  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  asking  for  a  testi- 
monial "which  may  shut  the  mouth  of  Calumny — and  strike 
dumb  the  mouth  of  Slander."  General  Dearborn  responded 
handsomely,  stating  that  his  conduct  in  both  expeditions  had 
the  approbation  of  the  President;  that  his  services  were  held  in 
high  esteem,  and  that  the  public  should  be  much  indebted  for 
the  enterprising,  persevering,  and  judicious  manner  in  which 
they  had  been  performed.  This  view  was  also  taken  by  the 
Congressional  Committee  of  the  Exploration  of  Western  Wa- 
ters, which  advised  that  compensation  be  made  by  law  to  Cap- 
tain Pike  and  his  companions.  Inscrutable  are  the  Acts  of 
Congress.  This  was  never  done,  although  from  time  to  time 
Pike  pleaded  for  his  faithful  Baroney  and  "the  poor  fellows  who 
have  become  cripples  from  their  limbs  being  frozen."  He 
writes  to  the  Secretary  of  War:  "  I  who  was  late  their  Compan- 
ion in  difficulties  and  dangers,  cannot  so  soon  forget  our  for- 
lorne  situation,  and  the  obligations  I  am  under  for  the  prompti- 
tude with  which  they  encountered  danger,  and  fortitude  they 
exhibited,  and  the  fidelity  and  attachment  they  evinced  to  their 
military  commander  and  leader  through  these  scenes,  as  not 
to  exert  myself  to  call  forth  the  attention  of  the  Government  in 
their  favor." 

One  year  after  his  return  from  Mexico,  Pike  was  made 
Major  of  the  6th  Infantry,  and  occupied  himself  editing  his 
diary  and  preparing  his  reports  for  publication.  This  done  he 
was  transferred  to  the  camp  at  Bellefontaine,  at  St.  Louis,  and 
before  the  year  closed  was  again  at  Washington.  Now  he  is  on 
military  duty  at  Fort  McHenry,  Maryland,  and  shortly  after 
acting  as  deputy  quartermaster-general  at  New  Orleans.  On 
July  6, 1812,  he  was  made  colonel  of  the  15th  Infantry,  and  was 
busy  at  Washington,  "in  drilling  the  compleatest  body  of  Infan- 


Biographical  Sketch  xv 

try  in  the  U.  S.,"  and  begging  the  Secretary  of  War  to  permit 
him  to  introduce  "Modern  Discipline  in  the  Corps."  He  was 
permitted  to  do  as  he  liked,  and  the  Fifteenth  was  subjected 
to  many  innovations  and  experiments.  One  was  the  French 
method  of  dividing  men  into  three  ranks,  the  third  being 
armed  with  short  guns  to  which  were  fitted  long  pikes.  This 
enabled  the  wags  of  the  period  to  allude  to  "Pike's  regi- 
ment of  pikes." 

During  his  voyage  in  the  Southwest,  Pike's  premonition  that 
active  service  was  not  long  distant  was  confirmed  during  his 
intimacy  with  the  Spanish  officers,  now  restive  under  the  re- 
strictions of  the  mother  country,  and  prepared  for  revolt.  In 
that  event  they  would  seek  the  Americans  as  allies.  The  British 
ships,  moreover,  were  hovering  about  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  in  the  kaleidoscopic  changes  among  nations  any- 
thing was  likely  to  happen.  In  his  letters  both  to  his  com- 
manding officer  and  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  Pike  expressed 
his  convictions,  and  urged  his  knowledge  of  French  and 
Spanish,  and  of  the  topography  of  the  country  as  part  of  his 
equipment  for  future  service. 

It  was  to  come,  but  not  in  the  manner  he  anticipated.  Of 
him,  at  this  time.  General  Whiting  says:  "Probably  no  officer 
in  the  army  was  held  in  higher  esteem."  Pike  had  never  been 
in  the  presence  of  the  enemy,  but  his  character  and  his  boldness 
and  resource,  as  well  as  his  fitness  to  direct  and  to  control 
men,  had  been  demonstrated  in  the  West.  The  complications 
with  England,  which  resulted  in  the  war  of  1812,  becoming 
acute,  the  15th  Regiment  was  sent  into  camp  near  Plattsburg, 
during  the  winter  of  18 12-13,  and  Brigadier-General  Pike, 
as  he  was  then  styled,  although  his  rank  had  not  yet  been  con- 
firmed by  Congress,  was  placed  in  command  of  the  military 
district  of  west  Lake  Chaplain,  with  2,500  men. 


XVI  Biographical  Sketch 

After  various  futile  efforts  on  our  part,  a  campaign  under 
General  Henry  Dearborn  was  organized  for  the  capture  of  the 
British  forts  on  Lake  Ontario.  The  first  attack  was  to  be  on 
Fort  York,  as  the  present  city  of  Toronto  was  then  called. 
Before  embarking  on  Commodore  Chauncy's  Fleet,  Pike  wrote 
a  military  order  and  a  letter,  both  illustrating  his  character  as 
an  officer  and  a  man.  After  giving  his  instructions  for  the  con- 
duct of  the  troops,  he  adds: 

"Courage  and  bravery  in  the  field  do  not  more  distinguish 
the  soldier  than  humanity  after  victory;  and  whatever  examples 
the  savage  allies  of  our  enemies  may  have  given  us,  the  general 
confidently  hopes  that  the  blood  of  an  unresisting  or  yielding 
enemy  will  never  stain  the  weapons  of  the  soldiers  of  his  column. 

"The  unoffending  citizens  of  Canada  are  many  of  them  our 
own  countrymen,  and  the  poor  Canadians  have  been  forced  into 
the  war.  Their  property  must  therefore  he  held  sacred,  and 
any  soldier  who  shall  so  far  neglect  the  honor  of  his  profession 
as  to  be  guilty  of  plundering  the  inhabitants,  shall,  if  convicted, 
be  punished  with  death." 

To  his  father  the  son  writes: 

"I  embark  to-morrow  in  the  fleet  at  Sackett's  Harbor,  at 
the  head  of  a  column  of  1,500  choice  troops,  on  a  secret  expedi- 
tion. If  success  attends  my  steps,  honor,  and  glory  await  my 
name — if  defeat,  still  shall  it  be  said  we  died  like  brave  men, 
and  conferred  honor,  even  in  death,  on  the  American  name. 

"Should  I  be  the  happy  mortal  destined  to  turn  the  scale 
of  war,  will  you  not  rejoice,  O  my  father  ?  May  Heaven  be 
propitious,  and  smile  on  the  cause  of  my  country.  But  if  we 
are  destined  to  fall,  may  my  fall  be  like  Wolfe's — to  sleep  in  the 
arms  of  victory." 

Before  Fort  York,  General  Dearborn  remained  on  the  Madi- 
sotiy  his  flagship,  and  the  command  was  given  to  Pike.    As  the 


Biographical  Sketch  xvii 

troops  were  being  transferred  to  the  shore,  a  wind  blew  them 
below  the  landing-place,  to  a  point  where  they  were  under  fire. 

"My  God  I  can  stay  here  no  longer,"  Pike  cried  to  his  staff. 
"Come  jump  into  the  boat,"  and  the  coxswain  steered  directly 
into  the  path  of  the  bullets,  where  Pike  joined  his  command. 
The  outer  battery  was  taken  by  assault,  and  the  guns  of  the 
main  battery  being  silenced.  Pike  sat  down  on  a  log  to  question 
a  British  prisoner,  while  waiting  for  the  surrender.  Instead 
of  the  white  flag  the  British  general,  Shealfe,  caused  the  powder 
magazine  to  be  blown  up  while  his  own  troops  were  in  retreat. 
Fifty-two  Americans  were  killed  and  one  hundred  and  eighty 
wounded.  A  huge  stone  from  the  magazine  fell  on  Pike  and 
crushed  his  back.  The  dying  general  was  carried  to  a  boat 
and  taken  to  the  flagship.  When  the  hurrahs  of  the  troops  were 
heard,  he  asked: 

"What  does  it  mean?" 

"Victory,"  was  the  reply.  "The  Union  Jack  is  coming  down 
and  the  Stars  and  Stripes  are  going  up." 

His  face  lighted  up  with  joy.  At  this  moment  the  captured 
flag  was  brought  on  board.  He  made  a  sign  to  place  it  under 
his  head,  and  his  biographer  writes: 

"His  aspiration  was  answered,  for  he  turned  the  scale  of 
war;  his  dream  of  glory  came  true,  for  he  fell  asleep,  like  Wolfe, 
in  the  arms  of  victory!"  and  like  Wolfe  with  his  head  pillowed 
on  the  flag  of  his  foe. 

The  body  of  Pike  was  taken  to  Sackett's  Harbor,  and  buried 
at  Fort  Tomkins  with  that  of  his  aid-de-camp,  Nicholson,  who 
fell  at  his  side.  Subsequently  it  was  removed  to  Madison 
Barracks  in  Fort  Pike,  at  Sackett's  Harbor,  where  a  stone 
seven  feet  high,  topped  by  an  urn,  was  erected  by  Colonel 
Hugh  Grady  and  the  officers  of  the  Fort.  Beneath  this 
crumbling  stone  Pike  now  lies. 


xviii  Biographical  Sketch 

The  death  of  Pike  was  on  every  tongue,  and  the  manner  of 
his  death  sent  a  cry  of  horror  through  the  country,  and  tempered 
the  joy  of  victory.  "It  was  not,"  says  General  Whiting,  "un- 
til after  the  capture  of  Fort  George  that  this  explosion  ceased 
to  haunt,  like  a  dreadful  spectre,  the  American  army."  That 
explosions  were  to  be  the  ordinary  means  of  warfare  with  the 
British  was  the  common  belief.  Public  ceremonies  were  held 
in  church,  hall,  and  theatre.  Newspapers  vied  in  eulogy  and 
comment.  The  15th  Regiment  held  a  solemn  celebration,  at 
Burlington,  "in  honor  of  the  immortal  father  of  our  regiment, 
our  beloved  Pike,"  and  the  27th  of  April,  the  day  of  his  death, 
was  set  apart  in  succeeding  years,  when  the  flag  was  to  be 
draped  and  the  officers  wear  crape  on  their  arms. 

The  country  was  soon  to  mourn  another  loss — that  of 
Lawrence,  of  the  frigate  Cj^esapeake,  whose  last  words  "Don't 
give  up  the  ship"  is  the  watchword  of  the  American  navy. 
Following  this  the  House  of  Representatives  conferred  public 
honors  on  the  two,  and  ordered  that  the  children  of  each  should 
be  regarded  as  wards  of  the  republic.  In  every  part  of  the 
country  the  name  of  Pike  was  commemorated  and  perpet- 
uated. Ten  States  gave  his  name  to  counties.  Twenty  town- 
ships were  christened  Pike.  Forts,  ships,  villages,  creeks  are 
known  by  his  name.  Pike's  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Min- 
nesota River,  is  historic,  for  here  the  United  States  first  made 
known  its  intentions  with  regard  to  the  Indians  of  the  North- 
west. The  range  of  bluffs  opposite  Prairie  du  Chien,  which 
he  describes  in  his  diary,  is  known  as  Pike's  Mountain. 
Greatest  of  all,  enduring  while  the  world  revolves,  is  Pike's 
Peak,  the  lofty  sentinel  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  discovered 
by  him  and  later  named  in  grateful  recollection  of  his  life 
and  death. 


THE  BOY'S   STORY  OF 
ZEBULON  M.  PIKE 


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MAP  OF  PIKE'S  EXPLORATIONS 
The  dotted  lines  show  the  routes  followed  on  the  several  expeditions 


ZEBULON  M.   PIKE 

CHAPTER  I 

ST.  LOUIS  TO  ST.  PAUL 

August  9— September  21,  1805 

[military   order   of   general  JAMES   WILKINSON] 

"Headquarters,  St.  Louis,  July  30,  1805. 
"Sir: 

"Having  completed  your  equipments,  you  are  to  pro- 
ceed up  the  Mississippi  with  all  possible  diligence,  tak- 
ing the  following  instructions  for  your  general  govern- 
ment, which  are  to  yield  to  your  discretion  in  all  cases 
of  exigency. 

"You  will  please  to  take  the  course  of  the  river,  and 
calculate  distances  by  time,  noting  rivers,  creeks,  high- 
lands, prairies,  islands,  rapids,  shoals,  mines,  quarries, 
timber,  water,  soil,  Indian  villages  and  settlements,  in 
a  diary,  to  comprehend  reflections  on  the  winds  and 
weather. 

"It  is  interesting  to  government  to  be  informed  of 
the  population  and  residence  of  the  several  Indian 
nations,  of  the  quantity  and  species  of  skins  and  furs 
they  barter  per  annum,  and  their  relative  price  to  goods; 

3 


Zebulon  M.  Pike 


of  the  tracts  of  country  on  which  they  generally  make 
their  hunts,  and  the  people  with  whom  they  trade. 

"You  will  be  pleased  to  examine  strictly  for  an  in- 
termediate point,  between  this  place  and  the  Prairie 
des  Chiens,  suitable  for  a  military  post,  and  also  on 
the  Ouiscousing,  near  its  mouth,  for  a  similar  estab- 
lishment; and  will  obtain  the  consent  of  the  Indians 
for  their  erection,  informing  them  that  they  are  in- 
tended to  increase  their  trade  and  amehorate  their 
condition. 

"You  will  proceed  to  ascend  the  main  branch  of  the 
river  until  you  reach  the  source  of  it,  or  the  season  may 
forbid  your  further  progress  without  endangering  your 
return  before  the  waters  are  frozen  up. 

"You  will  endeavor  to  ascertain  the  latitude  of  the 
most  remarkable  places  in  your  route,  with  the  extent 
of  the  navigation  and  the  direction  of  the  different 
rivers  which  fall  into  the  Mississippi,  and  you  will  not 
fail  to  procure  specimens  of  whatever  you  may  find 
curious,  in  the  mineral,  vegetable,  or  animal  kingdoms, 
to  be  rendered  at  this  place. 

"In  your  course  you  are  to  spare  no  pains  to  con- 
ciliate the  Indians  and  to  attach  them  to  the  United 
States,  and  you  may  invite  the  great  chiefs  of  such  dis- 
tant nations  as  have  not  been  at  this  place,  to  pay  me  a 
visit. 

"Your  own  good  sense  will  regulate  the  consumption 
of  your  provisions,  and  direct  the  distribution  of  the 
trifling  presents  which  you  may  carry  with  you,  particu- 
larly your  flags. 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul 


"I  wish  you  a  speedy,  pleasant  and  safe  tour,  and 
am,  Sir,  with  sentiments  of  respect  and  esteem, 
"Your  obedient  servant, 

"James  Wilkinson. 
"P.  S. — In  addition  to  the  preceding  orders,  you  will 
be  pleased  to  obtain  from  the  Indians  who  claim  the 
ground,  permissions  for  the  erection  of  military  posts 
and  trading  houses  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Pierre, 
the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  every  other  critical  point 
which  falls  under  your  observation;  these  permissions 
to  be  granted  in  formal  conferences,  and  the  ground 
marked  off. 

J.  W. 
"Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike, 

"ij/  Regt.  Infantry, 

"Sailed  from  my  encampment,  near  St.  Louis,  at 
4  p.  M.,  the  9th  of  August,  1805,  with  one  sergeant,  two 
corporals,  and  seventeen  privates,  in  a  keel  boat  seventy 
feet  long,  provisioned  for  four  months.  Water  very 
rapid.  Encamped  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  at  the 
head  of  an  island." 

Such  is  the  brief  record  of  the  beginning  of  this  im- 
portant work  in  which  Pike  responds  with  the  prompt 
obedience  of  a  mihtary  man,  and  transcribes  with  the 
simplicity  of  a  soldier.  The  roster  of  his  party  just  as 
he  includes  it  in  his  diary  may  well  be  given,  that  their 
descendants  may  share  in  the  pride  of  its  accomphsh- 
ment.  "Non-commissioned  officers:  Sergeant  Henry 
Kennerman,  Corporal  Henry  Bradley,  Corporal  Wil- 


Zebulon  M.  Pike 


Ham  E.  Meek;  Privates:  John  Boley,  Peter  Branden, 
John  Brown,  Jacob  Carter,  Thomas  Dougherty,  Wil- 
liam Gorden,  Solomon  Huddleston,  Hugh  Menaugh, 
Theodore  Miller,  John  Mountjoy,  David  Owings, 
Alexander  Roy,  Patrick  Smith,  Freegift  Stoute,  David 
Whelpley." 

St.  Louis  at  this  time  was  the  principal  French 
trading-post  on  the  Mississippi.  The  early  part  of 
his  journey  was  uneventful  beyond  the  weathering 
of  storms  and  encounters  with  sand-bars,  which  fre- 
quently obliged  the  men  to  get  into  the  water  and  haul 
the  boat  over  and  around  these  obstructions.  On  the 
third  day  the  boat  reached  the  Portage  des  Sioux. 
This  was  the  crossing  place  of  the  Sioux  between  the 
Mississippi  and  the  IlHnois  Rivers,  where  in  the  early 
days  was  an  old  French  settlement.  At  a  cave,  just 
beyond,  the  party  camped  in  order  to  dry  their  baggage, 
look  after  their  guns,  and  "scale  their  blunderbusses," 
as,  in  the  language  of  the  day,  their  small  cannon  were 
called. 

Slowly  they  made  their  way  among  the  heavily 
wooded  islands  of  this  part  of  the  river  until  they 
reached  the  "Riviere  du  Boeuf,"  or  Buffalo  River, 
where  Pike  notes  a  "beautiful  silver  chff"  and  four 
islands  which  he  calls  the  "Four  Brothers."  This  cHflF 
is  now  known  as  Cap  au  Gres,  and  the  larger  of  the 
four  islands  has  been  christened  "Sarah  Ann,"  its  sex 
being  changed,  while  the  others  are  merely  numbered. 
A  week  after  setting  sail,  still  struggling  with  wind  and 
weather,  they  passed  several  encampments  of  Indians, 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul 


and  among  these  a  camp  of  Sioux  who  were  "spearing 
a  singular  fish,  about  three  feet  in  length,  with  a  long 
flat  snout."  This  fish  is  variously  known  as  the  paddle- 
fish,  spoon-billed  duck,  and  long-billed  duck.  Hen- 
nepin, who  discovered  the  Illinois  River,  called  it  "the 
long-beaked  sturgeon*';  but  while  it  resembles  a  stur- 
geon it  is  without  scales,  like  a  catfish. 

The  Indians  were  friendly  and  advised  them  about 
the  channel.  In  return.  Pike  gave  them  a  small  quan- 
tity of  whiskey;  the  Indians  responding  again  by  an 
offering  of  fish.  Fishing,  indeed,  was  almost  the  only 
amusement  of  the  soldiers,  in  the  intervals  of  finding 
their  way  among  the  islands.  On  one  day  Pike  re- 
cords catching  nearly  fourteen  hundred  small  fish.  In 
the  meantime  he  encountered  a  young  man  named 
Robedoux,  to  whom  he  gave  letters  for  St.  Louis,  and 
again  in  the  neighborhood  of  Salt  River  he  met  Mr. 
Keteltas,  of  New  York,  who  gave  him  a  letter  to  Mr. 
Baker,  of  "  Prarie  des  Cheins,"  as  Pike,  whose  spelling 
of  French  names  is  phonetic  rather  than  correct,  in- 
variably gives  it. 

The  weather  was  still  intolerable  and  the  men  had 
become  galled  and  sore  from  straining  and  pulling  in 
their  wet  clothes,  but  more  misfortunes  were  to  come. 
On  the  morning  of  August  i6th,  when  they  had  been 
journeying  just  a  week,  the  boat  got  fast  on  a  log  which 
had  to  be  sawed  off  under  the  water  and  cost  them  some 
hours  of  travel.  It  was  afternoon  when  they  arrived  at 
"the  houses  of  a  Frenchman  situated  on  the  W.  side  of 
the   river  opposite  Hurricane  Island.     His  cattle  ap- 


8  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

peared  to  be  in  fine  order,  but  his  corn  in  a  bad  state 
of  cultivation.  About  one  mile  above  his  house  on  the 
W.  shore  is  a  very  handsome  hill,  which  he  informed 
me  was  level  on  the  top,  with  a  gradual  descent  on 
either  side,  and  a  fountain  of  fine  water." 

This  Frenchman's  house  was  the  early  beginning  of 
what  is  now  Hannibal,  Missouri.  This  classical  name 
was  given  to  the  settlement  by  one  Anthony  Soulard, 
Surveyor-General,  who  called  the  neighboring  river 
Fabius,  after  the  Roman  cunctator,  and  the  Big  Bay, 
now  Bay  St.  Charles,  he  named  Scipio.  Hurricane 
Island  has  now  disappeared.  But  near  here,  at  the 
upper  end  of  St.  Charles  bayou,  was  later  the  site  of  a 
town  on  paper,  called  Marion  City,  which  has  the 
unhappy  distinction  of  being  celebrated  in  Martin 
Chuzzlewit  under  the  name  of  "Eden."  Following 
Pike's  trail  in  this  manner,  one  discovers  the  changes 
and  vicissitudes  of  the  settlements  on  the  Mississippi, 
now  almost  lost  in  the  growth  and  prosperity  of  the 
great  highway. 

For  two  days  the  boat  made  good  progress  under 
sail,  while  the  men  varied  their  duties  by  fishing  and 
exchanging  salutes  with  passing  bateaux  and  Indians 
until  August  19,  when  the  commander  writes: 

"Embarked  early  and  made  fine  way;  but  at  nine 
o'clock,  in  turning  the  point  of  a  sand-bar  our  boat 
struck  a  sawyer.  At  the  moment  we  did  not  know  it 
had  injured  her;  but,  in  a  short  time  after,  discovered 
her  to  be  sinking;  however,  by  thrusting  oakum  into 
the  leak  and  baiHng,  we  got  her  to  shore  on  a  bar,  where, 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul 


after  entirely  unloading,  we  with  great  difficulty  keeled 
her  sufficiently  to  cut  out  the  plank  and  put  in  a  new 
one.  This  at  the  time  I  conceived  to  be  a  great  mis- 
fortune; but  upon  examination  we  discovered  that  the 
injury  resulting  from  it  was  greater  than  we  were  at 
first  induced  to  believe;  for  upon  inspection  we  found 
our  provisions  and  clothing  considerably  damaged. 
The  day  was  usefully  and  necessarily  employed  in 
assorting,  sunning,  and  airing  those  articles.  One  of 
my  hunters,  Sparks,  having  gone  on  shore  to  hunt, 
swam  the  river  about  seven  miles  above  and  killed  a 
deer;  but  finding  we  did  not  come,  he  returned  down 
the  river,  and  joined  us  by  swimming.  Whilst  we  were 
at  work  at  our  boat  on  the  sand-beach,  three  canoes 
with  Indians  passed  on  the  opposite  shore.  They 
cried,  'How-do-you-do?'  wishing  us  to  give  them  an 
invitation  to  come  over;  but  receiving  no  answer  they 
passed  on.  We  then  put  our  baggage  on  board  and  put 
off,  designing  to  go  where  the  young  man  had  killed  the 
deer;  but  after  dark  we  became  entangled  among  the 
sand-bars,  and  were  obHged  to  stop  and  encamp  on  the 
point  of  a  beach.     Caught  two  fish. 

^^Aug.  20th.  Arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  De 
Moyen  at  seven  o'clock.  Although  no  soul  on  board 
had  passed  them,  we  commenced  ascending  them 
immediately.  Our  boat  being  large  and  moderately 
loaded,  we  found  great  difficulty.  The  river  all  the 
way  through  is  from  three-quarters  to  a  mile  wide. 
The  rapids  are  ii  miles  long,  with  successive  ridges 
extending   from   shore    to    shore.     The    first    has    the 


10  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

greatest  fall  and  is  the  most  difficult  to  ascend.  The 
channel  on  the  east  side  is  a  bad  one  in  passing  the  first 
two  bars;  then  passes  under  the  edge  of  the  third; 
crosses  to  the  west,  and  ascends  on  that  side  all  the 
way  to  the  Sac  village.  The  shoals  continued  the  whole 
distance.  We  had  passed  the  first  and  most  difficult 
shoal  when  we  were  met  by  Mr.  William  Ewing,  who  I 
understand  is  an  agent  appointed  by  the  Government 
to  reside  with  the  Sacs  to  teach  them  the  science  of  agri- 
culture, with  a  French  interpreter,  four  chiefs  and  fif- 
teen men  of  the  Sac  nation,  in  their  canoes,  bearing  a 
flag  of  the  United  States.  They  came  down  to  assist  me 
up  the  rapids;  took  out  fourteen  of  my  heaviest  barrels, 
and  put  two  of  their  men  in  the  barge  to  pilot  it  up. 
Arrived  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Ewing  about  dusk.  The 
land  on  both  sides  of  the  rapids  is  hilly,  but  a  rich  soil. 
Distance  i6  miles." 

Pike  had  now  reached  the  present  limits  of  the  city 
of  Keokuk,  named  after  the  famous  Sac  chief,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Des  Moines  River,  which  Pike  elsewhere 
calls  Means  River.  This  house  was  later  known  as 
Fort  Madison,  doubtless  on  the  recommendation  of  the 
explorer,  since  part  of  his  errand  was  to  select  proper 
sites  for  forts. 

On  the  next  day  Pike  called  all  the  chief  men 
of  the  village  to  his  camp  and  held  a  parley.  He  told 
them: 

"That  their  great  father,  the  president  of  the  United 
States,  wishing  to  be  more  intimately  acquainted  with 
the  situation,  wants,    &c.,  of  the  different  nations  of 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  ii 

the  red  people,  in  our  newly  acquired  territory  of  Louis- 
iana, had  ordered  the  general  to  send  a  number  of  his 
young  warriors  in  different  directions,  to  take  them  by 
cfne  hand,  and  make  such  inquiries  as  might  afford  the 
satisfaction  required. 

"  That  I  was  authorized  to  choose  situations  for  their 
trading  estabhshments;  and  wished  them  to  inform 
me  if  that  place  would  be  considered  by  them  as 
central. 

"That  I  was  sorry  to  hear  of  the  murder  which  had 
been  committed  on  the  river  below;  but,  in  considera- 
tion of  their  assurances  that  it  was  none  of  their  nation, 
and  the  anxiety  exhibited  by  them  on  the  occasion,  I 
had  written  to  the  general  and  informed  him  of  what 
they  had  said  on  the  subject. 

"That  in  their  treaty  they  engaged  to  apprehend  all 
traders  who  came  among  them  without  license;  for  that 
time,  I  could  not  examine  their  traders  on  this  subject; 
but  that,  on  my  return,  I  would  make  a  particular  ex- 
amination. 

"That  if  they  thought  proper  they  might  send  a 
young  man  in  my  boat,  to  inform  the  other  villages  of 
my  mission,"  etc. 

"I  then  presented  them  with  some  tobacco,  knives, 
and  whisky.     They  replied  to  the  following  purport: 

"That  they  thanked  me  for  the  good  opinion  I  had 
of  their  nation,  and  for  what  I  had  written  the  general. 
That  themselves,  their  young  warriors,  and  the  whole 
nation,  were  glad  to  see  me  among  them. 

"  That  as  for  the  situation  of  the  trading-houses,  they 


12  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

could  not  determine,  being  but  a  part  of  the  nation. 
With  respect  to  sending  a  young  man  along,  that  if  I 
would  wait  until  to-morrow,  they  would  choose  one  out. 
And  finally,  that  they  thanked  me  for  my  tobacco, 
knives,  and  whisky.^' 

After  writing  a  letter  about  this  interview  to  the  com- 
mander-in-chief Pike  started,  and  after  two  days  of 
wrestling  with  sand-bars  and  twisting  among  islands 
arrived  at  what  he  describes  on  the  west  shore  as  a 
handsome  site  for  a  garrison.  This  was  on  top  of  a  hill, 
which  was  level  on  top. 

"Four  hundred  yards  in  the  rear  there  is  a  small 
prairie  of  8  or  lo  acres,  which  would  be  a  convenient 
spot  for  gardens;  and  on  the  east  side  of  the  river 
there  is  a  beautiful  prospect  over  a  large  prairie,  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  extend,  now  and  then  interrupted 
by  groves  of  trees.  Directly  under  the  rock  is  a  lime- 
stone spring,  which,  after  an  hour's  work,  would  afford 
water  amply  sufficient  for  the  consumption  of  a  regi- 
ment. The  landing  is  bold  and  safe,  and  at  the  lower 
part  of  the  hill  a  road  may  be  made  for  a  team  in  half 
an  hour.  Black  and  white  oak  timber  in  abundance. 
The  mountain  continues  about  two  miles,  and  has  five 
springs  bursting  from  it  in  that  distance."  This  hand- 
some site  for  a  fort,  which  is  marked  on  the  explorer's 
map,  is  now  the  city  of  Burlington,  Iowa.  There  they 
"met  four  Indians  and  two  squaws;  landed  with  them; 
gave  them  one  quart  of  made  whisky,  a  few  biscuit,  and 
some  salt.  I  requested  some  venison  of  them;  they 
pretended  they  could  not  understand  me;   but  after  we 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  13 

had  left  them  they  held  up  two  hams,  and  hallooed  and 
laughed  at  us  in  derision.  Passed  nine  horses  on  shore 
and  saw  many  signs  of  Indians.  Passed  a  handsome 
prairie  on  the  east  side,  and  encamped  at  its  head." 
Here  they  were  joined  by  three  boats  from  "Michil- 
mackinac,"  and  learned  that  this  prairie  was  half  way 
between  St.  Louis  and  Prairie  du  Chien. 

"Aug.  2^th.  In  the  morning  passed  a  number  of 
islands.  Before  dinner  Corporal  Bradley  and  myself 
took  our  guns  and  went  on  shore;  we  got  behind  the 
savannah,  by  following  the  stream  we  conceived  to 
have  been  a  branch  of  the  river,  but  which  led  two 
leagues  from  it.  My  two  favorite  dogs  having  gone 
out  with  us,  gave  out  on  the  prairie  on  account  of  heat, 
high  grass  and  want  of  water;  but,  thinking  they  would 
come  on,  we  continued  our  march.  We  heard  the  re- 
port of  a  gun,  and  supposing  it  to  be  from  the  boat 
answered  it:  shortly  after,  however,  we  passed  an  Ind- 
ian trail,  which  appeared  as  if  the  persons  had  been 
hurried,  I  presume  at  the  report  of  the  guns;  for  with 
these  people  all  strangers  are  enemies.  Shortly  after 
we  struck  the  river,  and  the  boat  appeared  in  view; 
stayed  some  time  for  my  dogs;  two  of  my  men  volun- 
teered to  go  in  search  of  them.  Encamped  on  the  west 
shore,  nearly  opposite  a  chalk  bank.  My  two  men  had 
not  yet  returned,  and  it  was  extraordinary,  as  they 
knew  my  boat  never  waited  for  any  person  on  shore. 
They  endeavored  to  strike  the  Mississippi  ahead  of  us. 
We  fired  a  blunderbuss  three  times,  to  let  them  know 
where  we  lay.'' 


14  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Firing  their  cannon  every  hour  as  a  signal  for  the 
men,  the  boat  proceeded.  Passing  the  Iowa  River, 
the  party  camped  on  Grant's  prairie,  which  must  be 
understood  as  the  lowlands  below  Muscatine,  Iowa. 
The  boat,  which  had  been  leaking  badly,  was  mended 
with  oakum  and  tallow,  and  owing  to  hard  head-winds 
had  to  be  towed  by  the  men.  They  met  two  canoes  of 
Indians  who  urged  them  to  land  with  them,  but  they 
refused,  the  men  towing  until  the  hills  meeting  the  water 
caused  them  to  stop.  Here  they  again  hoped  to  find 
their  missing  men.  A  cold  north  wind  was  blowing, 
the  thermometer  had  dropped  to  ten  degrees,  but  the 
men  kept  at  the  ropes  until  they  passed  the  "Riviere  de 
Roche,"  as  Pike  calls  Rock  River.  He  notes  passing 
a  pole  on  which  "five  dogs  were  hanging."  Four  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  Rock  River  he  struck  the  camp  of 
Mr.  James  Aird  of  Mackinaw,  and  after  breakfasting 
with  him  they  began  the  ascent  of  the  rapids,  losing 
their  rudder  in  the  first  round.  Raising  sail  in  the  teeth 
of  a  hard  gale  they  made  a  successful  ascent  of  the 
rapids,  arriving  at  a  "  Reynard  village,"  as  Pike  always 
alludes  to  the  Fox  Indians.  Here  again  he  expected  to 
find  his  missing  men,  who  he  thought  would  make  a 
short  cut  across  country.  The  Fox  chief  told  him  the 
men  could  reach  Prairie  du  Chien  in  four  days'  march 
and  promised  to  give  them  moccasins  for  the  journey. 

The  boat  now  set  sail  again,  and  Pike  intended  to 
sail  all  night,  but  the  wind  lulling  the  party  camped  on 
an  island  near  the  west  shore.  Pike  had  now  traversed 
the  distance  from  Burlington  to  the  head  of  the  rapids, 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  15 

or  what  is  now  the  town  of  Le  Claire.  His  next  camp 
was  at  the  mouth  of  the  Galena  River,  "  Riviere  Le 
Fievre"  as  it  was  not  inappropriately  known  to  the 
French,  and  so  found  by  Pike. 

*' Sunday,  Sept,  1st.  Embarked  early;  wind  fair; 
arrived  at  the  lead  mines  at  twelve  o'clock.  A  dysen- 
tery, with  which  I  had  been  afflicted  several  days  was 
suddenly  checked  this  morning,  which  I  believe  to  have 
been  the  occasion  of  a  very  violent  attack  of  fever  about 
eleven  o'clock.  Notwithstanding  it  was  very  severe,  I 
dressed  myself,  with  an  intention  to  execute  the  order 
of  the  general  relative  to  this  place.  We  were  saluted 
with  a  field-piece  and  received  with  every  mark  of  at- 
tention by  Monsieur  Dubuque,  the  proprietor.  There 
were  no  horses  at  the  house,  and  it  was  six  miles  to 
where  the  mines  were  worked;  it  was  therefore  impos- 
sible for  me  to  make  a  report  by  actual  inspection.  I 
therefore  proposed  ten  queries,  on  the  answers  to  which 
my  report  was  founded. 

"  Dined  with  Mr.  D.  who  informed  me  that  the  Sioux 
and  the  Sauteurs  were  as  warmly  engaged  in  opposition 
as  ever;  that  not  long  since  the  former  killed  15  Sau- 
teurs, who  on  the  loth  of  August  return,  killed  10  Sioux, 
at  the  entrance  of  St.  Peters;  and  that  a  party  of  Sacs, 
Reynards,  and  Puants  of  200  warriors,  had  embarked 
on  an  expedition  against  the  Sauteurs;  but  they  had 
heard  that  the  chief,  having  had  an  unfavorable  dream, 
persuaded  the  party  to  return,  and  that  I  would  meet 
them  on  their  voyage.  At  this  place  I  was  introduced 
to  a  chief  called  Raven,  of  the  Reynards.     He  made  a 


i6  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

very  flowery  speech,  which  I  answered  in  a  few  words, 
accompanied  by  a  small  present. 

"  I  had  now  given  up  all  hopes  of  my  two  men,  and 
was  about  to  embark  when  a  peroque  arrived,  in  which 
they  were,  with  a  Mr.  Blondeau,  and  two  Indians  whom 
that  gentleman  had  engaged  above  the  rapids  of  Stony 
river.  The  two  soldiers  had  been  six  days  without 
anything  to  eat  except  muscles  when  they  met  Mr. 
James  Aird,  by  whose  humanity  and  attention  their 
strength  and  spirits  were  in  a  measure  restored;  and 
they  were  enabled  to  reach  the  Reynard  village,  where 
they  met  Mr.  B.  The  Indian  chief  furnished  them 
with  corn  and  shoes,  and  showed  his  friendship  by 
every  possible  attention.  I  immediately  discharged  the 
hire  of  the  Indians,  and  gave  Mr.  Blondeau  a  passage 
to  the  Prairie  des  Cheins.  Left  the  lead  mines  at  four 
o'clock.     Distance  25  miles. 

"Sept.  2d.  After  making  two  short  reaches,  we  com- 
menced one  which  is  30  miles  in  length;  the  wind  serv- 
ing, we  just  made  it,  and  encamped  on  the  E.  side, 
opposite  the  mouth  of  Turkey  river.  In  the  course  of 
the  day  we  landed  to  shoot  pigeons.  The  moment  a 
gun  was  fired,  some  Indians,  who  were  on  the  shore 
above  us,  ran  down  and  put  off  in  their  peroques  with 
great  precipitation;  upon  which  Mr.  Blondeau  in- 
formed me  that  all  the  women  and  children  were  fright- 
ened at  the  very  name  of  an  American  boat,  and  that 
the  men  held  us  in  great  respect,  conceiving  us  very 
quarrelsome,  much  for  war,  and  also  very  brave.  This 
information  I  used  as  prudence  suggested.     We  stopped 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  17 

at  an  encampment  three  miles  below  the  town  where 
they  gave  us  some  excellent  plums.  They  despatched 
a  pirogue  to  the  village  to  give  notice,  as  I  suppose,  of 
our  arrival.  It  commenced  raining  about  dusk  and 
rained  all  night.     Distance  40  miles. 

"Sept,  ^rd.  Embarked  at  a  pretty  early  hour. 
Cloudy.  Met  two  peroques  of  family  Indians;  they 
at  first  asked  Mr.  Blondeau  if  we  were  for  war,  or  if 
going  to  war  ?  I  now  experienced  the  good  effect  of 
having  some  person  on  board  who  could  speak  their 
language;  for  they  presented  me  with  three  pair  of 
ducks  and  a  quantity  of  venison,  sufficient  for  all  our 
crew  for  one  day;  in  return,  I  made  them  some  trifling 
presents.  Afterward  met  two  peroques,  carrying  some 
of  the  warriors  spoken  of  on  the  2d  inst.  They  kept  at  a 
great  distance,  until  spoken  to  by  Mr.  B.,  when  they  in- 
formed him  that  their  party  had  proceeded  up  as  high 
as  Lake  Pekin  without  effecting  anything.  It  is  sur- 
prising what  a  dread  the  Indians  in  this  quarter  have  of 
the  Americans.  I  have  often  seen  them  go  round  isl- 
ands to  avoid  meeting  my  boat.  It  appears  to  me  evi- 
dent that  the  traders  have  taken  great  pains  to  impress 
upon  the  minds  of  the  savages  the  idea  of  our  being 
a  very  vindictive,  ferocious,  and  warlike  people.  This 
impression  was  perhaps  made  with  no  good  intention; 
but  when  they  find  that  our  conduct  toward  them  is 
guided  by  magnanimity  and  justice,  instead  of  operat- 
ing in  an  injurious  manner,  it  will  have  the  effect  to 
make  them  reverence  at  the  same  time  they  fear  us." 

Having  breakfasted  just  below  the  **  Ouisconsing " 


1 8  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

River,  as  Pike  gives  us  the  French  name  of  the  Wisconsin 
River  in  his  own  speUing,  he  reached  Prairie  du  Chien 
at  eleven  o'clock,  where  he  was  entertained  by  a  Cap- 
tain Fisher,  and  met  Mr.  Frazer,  who  subsequently  be- 
came his  travelling  companion.  This  Mr.  Frazer,  like 
the  Frazer  who  was  with  Lewis  and  Clark,  was  a  Green 
Mountain  boy.  With  these  two  gentlemen  Pike  started 
in  a  "  Schenactady  boat"  to  look  for  a  site  for  a  garrison. 
Crossing  the  river  and  ascending  a  hill  he  notes  in  his 
diary:  "Made  choice  of  a  spot  which  I  thought  most 
eligible,  being  level  on  the  top,  having  a  spring  in  the 
rear,  and  commanding  a  view  of  the  country  around. 
A  shower  of  rain  came  on  which  completely  wet  us,  and 
we  returned  to  the  v-illage  without  having  ascended  the 
Ouisconsing  as  we  intended.  Marked  four  trees  with 
A.  B.  C.  D.,  and  squared  the  sides  of  one  in  the  center. 
Wrote  to  the  general." 

Prairie  du  Chien,  which  Pike  spells  with  his  usual 
indifference,  was  one  of  the  earliest  trading-posts  on  the 
river.  From  the  maps  of  the  preceding  century  it  ap- 
pears to  have  been  the  site  of  Fort  St.  Nicolas.  In 
1768  it  was  a  town  of  three  hundred  families  with 
houses  built  Indian  fashion,  and  a  great  centre  of  barter. 
The  name  is  variously  attributed  to  an  Indian  tribe  and 
to  some  particular  Indian.  In  the  writing  of  the  day  it 
is  spoken  of  as  Dog  Plain.  The  hill  of  which  Pike 
writes  is  now  known  as  Pike's  Mountain.  He  speaks 
of  it  elsewhere  as  well  calculated  to  command  the  Mis- 
sissippi. His  party  remained  at  Prairie  du  Chien  five 
days,  the  men  amusing  themselves  with  jumping  and 


SOME  OF  THEM  EVEN  TRIED  THEIR  DEXTERITY,  TO  SEE 
HOW  NEAR  THE  BOAT  THEY  COULD  STRIKE." 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  19 

hopping  contests  with  the  villagers.  Having  engaged 
two  interpreters,  Pierre  Rosseau  and  Joseph  Reinville, 
and  joined  by  Mr.  Frazer,  with  two  new  boats,  the 
party  started  for  the  upper  river  on  September  8. 

"Mr.  Frazer  is  a  young  gentleman,  clerk  to  Mr. 
Blakely  of  Montreal;  he  was  born  in  Vermont,  but 
has  latterly  resided  in  Montreal,  Canada.  To  the  at- 
tention of  this  gentleman  I  am  much  indebted;  he  pro- 
cured for  me  everything  in  his  power  I  stood  in  need  of, 
dispatched  his  bark  canoes,  and  remained  himself  to  go 
with  me.  His  design  was  to  winter  with  some  of  the 
Sioux  bands.  We  sailed  well,  came  18  miles  and  en- 
camped on  the  west  bank. 

"  I  must  not  fail  here  to  bear  testimony  to  the  polite- 
ness of  all  the  principal  inhabitants  of  the  village. 
There  is,  however,  a  material  distinction  to  be  made 
in  the  nature  of  those  attentions:  The  kindness  of 
Messrs.  Fisher,  Frazer,  and  Woods,  all  Americans, 
seemed  to  be  the  spontaneous  effusions  of  good  will, 
and  partiality  to  their  countrymen;  it  extended  to  the 
accommodation,  convenience,  exercises,  and  pastimes 
of  my  men;  and  whenever  they  proved  superior  to  the 
French,  openly  showed  their  pleasure.  But  the  French 
Canadians  appeared  attentive  rather  from  their  natural 
good  manners  than  sincere  friendship;  however,  it  pro- 
duced from  them  the  same  effect  that  natural  good  will 
did  in  the  others." 

''Sept.  loth.  Rain  still  continuing,  we  remained  in 
camp.  Having  shot  some  pigeons,  the  report  was  heard 
at  the  Sioux  lodges,  the  same  to  whom  I  spoke  on  the 


20  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

6th  at  the  Prairie;  when  La  Feuille  sent  down  six  of  his 
young  men  to  inform  me  that  he  had  waited  three 
days  with  meat,  etc.,  but  that  last  night  they  had  began 
to  drink,  and  that  on  the  next  day  he  would  receive  me 
with  his  people  sober.  I  returned  him  for  answer  that 
the  season  was  advanced,  time  was  pressing,  and  if  the 
rain  ceased  I  must  go  on.  Mr.  Frazer  and  the  in- 
terpreter went  home  with  the  Indians.  We  embarked 
about  one  o'clock.  Frazer,  returning,  informed  me  that 
the  chief  acquiesced  in  my  reasons  for  pressing  forward, 
but  that  he  had  prepared  a  pipe  to  present  to  me,  to 
show  to  all  the  Sioux  above,  with  a  message  to  inform 
them  that  I  was  a  chief  of  the  new  father,  and  that  he 
wished  me  to  be  treated  with  friendship  and  respect. 

"On  our  arrival  opposite  the  lodges,  the  men  were 
paraded  on  the  bank  with  their  guns  in  their  hands. 
They  saluted  us  with  ball,  with  what  might  be  termed 
three  rounds;  which  I  returned  with  three  rounds 
from  my  blunderbusses.  This  salute  although  noth- 
ing to  soldiers  accustomed  to  fire,  would  not  be  so 
agreeable  to  many  people;  as  the  Indians  had  all  been 
drinking  and  as  some  of  them  even  tried  their  dexter- 
ity, to  see  how  near  the  boat  they  could  strike.  They 
may,  indeed,  be  said  to  have  struck  on  every  side  of  us. 
When  landed,  I  had  my  pistols  in  my  belt  and  sword 
in  hand.  I  was  met  on  the  bank  by  the  chief,  and  in- 
vited to  his  lodge.  As  soon  as  my  guards  were  formed 
and  sentinels  posted,  I  accompanied  him.  Some  of 
my  men  who  were  going  up  with  me  I  caused  to  leave 
their  arms  behind,  as  a  mark  of  confidence.     At  the 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  21 

chiePs  lodge  I  found  a  clean  mat  and  pillow  for  me  to 
sit  on,  and  the  before-mentioned  pipe  on  a  pair  of  small 
crutches  before  me.  The  chief  sat  on  my  right  hand, 
my  interpreter  and  Mr.  Frazer  on  my  left.  After  smok- 
ing, the  chief  spoke  to  the  following  purport: 

"That,  notwithstanding  he  had  seen  me  at  the  Prairie 
he  was  happy  to  take  me  by  the  hand  among  his  own 
people,  and  there  show  his  young  men  the  respect  due 
to  their  new  father.  That,  when  at  St.  Louis  in  the 
spring,  his  father  had  told  him  that  if  he  looked  down 
the  river  he  would  see  one  of  his  young  warriors  coming 
up.  He  now  found  it  true,  and  he  was  happy  to  see 
me,  who  knew  the  Great  Spirit  was  the  father  of  all, 
both  the  white  and  the  red  people;  and  if  one  died,  the 
other  could  not  live  long.  That  he  had  never  been  at 
war  with  their  new  father,  and  hoped  always  to  pre- 
serve the  same  understanding  that  now  existed.  That 
he  now  presented  me  with  a  pipe,  to  show  to  the  upper 
bands  as  a  token  of  our  good  understanding,  and  that 
they  might  see  his  work  and  imitate  his  conduct.  That 
he  had  gone  to  St.  Louis  on  a  shameful  visit,  to  carry  a 
murderer;  but  that  we  had  given  the  man  his  life,  and 
he  thanked  us  for  it.  That  he  had  provided  something 
to  eat,  but  he  supposed  I  could  not  eat  it;  and  if  not, 
to  give  it  to  my  young  men. 

"I  replied:  That,  although  I  had  told  him  at  the 
Prairie  my  business  up  the  Mississippi,  I  would  again 
relate  it  to  him.  I  then  mentioned  the  different  ob- 
jects I  had  in  view  with  regard  to  the  savages  who  had 
fallen  under  our  protection  by  our  late  purchase  from 


22  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

the  Spaniards;  the  different  posts  to  be  established; 
the  objects  of  these  posts  as  related  to  them;  supplying 
them  with  necessaries;  having  officers  and  agents  of 
government  near  them  to  attend  to  their  business;  and 
above  all  to  endeavor  to  make  peace  between  the  Sioux 
and  Sauteurs.  That  it  was  possible  on  my  return  I 
should  bring  some  of  the  Sauteurs  down  with  me,  and 
take  with  me  some  of  the  Sioux  chiefs  to  St.  Louis, 
there  to  settle  the  long  and  bloody  war  which  had  existed 
between  the  two  nations.  That  I  accepted  his  pipe 
with  pleasure,  as  the  gift  of  a  great  man,  the  chief  of 
four  bands,  and  a  brother;  that  it  should  be  used  as 
he  desired.  I  then  eat  of  the  dinner  he  had  provided, 
which  was  very  grateful.  It  was  wild  rye  and  venison, 
of  which  I  sent  four  bowls  to  my  men. 

"I  afterward  went  to  a  dance,  the  performance  of 
which  was  attended  with  many  curious  maneuvers. 
Men  and  women  danced  indiscriminately.  They  were 
all  dressed  in  the  gayest  manner;  each  had  in  the  hand 
a  small  skin  of  some  description,  and  would  frequently 
run  up,  point  their  skin,  and  give  a  puff  with  their 
breath;  when  the  person  blown  at,  whether  man  or 
woman,  would  fall,  and  appear  to  be  almost  lifeless,  or 
in  great  agony;  but  would  recover  slowly,  rise,  and 
join  in  the  dance.  This  they  called  their  great  medi- 
cine; or,  as  I  understood  the  word,  dance  of  religion, 
the  Indians  believing  that  they  actually  puffed  some- 
thing into  each  others'  bodies  which  occasioned  the 
falling,  etc.  It  is  not  every  person  who  is  admitted; 
persons  wishing  to  join  them  must  first  make  valuable 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  23 

presents  to  the  society  to  the  amount  of  $^0  or  ^50, 
give  a  feast,  and  then  be  admitted  with  great  ceremony. 
Mr.  Frazer  informed  me  that  he  was  once  in  the  lodge 
with  some  young  men  who  did  not  belong  to  the  club; 
when  one  of  the  dancers  came  in  they  immediately  threw 
their  blankets  over  him,  and  forced  him  out  of  the  lodge; 
he  laughed,  but  the  young  Indians  called  him  a  fool, 
and  said  he  did  not  know  what  the  dancer  might  blow 
into  his  body. 

"I  returned  to  my  boat;  sent  for  the  chief  and  pre- 
sented him  with  two  carrots  of  tobacco,  four  knives,  a 
half  pound  of  vermillion,  and  one  quart  of  salt.  Mr. 
Frazer  asked  the  liberty  to  present  them  some  rum; 
we  made  them  up  a  keg  between  us,  of  eight  gallons — 
two  gallons  of  whiskey,  Mr.  Frazer  informed  the  chief 
that  he  did  not  dare  give  them  any  without  my  per- 
mission. The  chief  thanked  me  for  all  my  presents, 
and  said  they  must  come  free  as  he  did  not  ask  for 
them. 

"I  repHed  that  to  those  who  did  not  ask  for  any- 
thing I  gave  freely;  but  to  those  who  asked  for  much  I 
gave  little  or  none. 

"We  embarked  about  half  past  three  o'clock;  came 
three  miles;  encamped  on  the  W.  side.  Mr.  Frazer  we 
left  behind,  but  he  came  up  with  his  two  peroques  about 
dusk.  It  commenced  raining  very  hard.  In  the  night 
a  peroque  arriVed  from  the  lodges  of  his  camp.  Dur- 
ing our  stay  at  their  camp,  there  were  soldiers  appointed 
to  keep  the  crowd  from  my  boats,  who  executed  their 
duty  with  vigilance  and  with  rigor,  driving  men,  women. 


24  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

and  children  back  whenever  they  came  near  my  boats. 
At  my  departure  the  soldiers  said,  as  I  had  shaken 
hands  with  their  chief,  they  must  shake  hands  with  my 
soldiers,  in  which  request  I  willingly  endulged  them." 

Still  twisting  among  the  islands  and  pelted  by  rain 
the  expedition  proceeded  as  far  as  La  Crosse,  then  a 
prairie  taking  its  name  from  the  game  of  la  crosse, 
which  since  that  day  still  gives  its  name  to  the  town. 
Mr.  Frazer,  coming  up  with  his  pirogues,  or  canoes, 
they  went  over  the  prairie  and  inspected  "some  holes 
dug  by  the  Sioux,  when  in  expectation  of  an  attack, 
into  which  they  first  put  their  women  and  children,  and 
then  crawl  themselves.  They  were  generally  round  and 
about  10  feet  in  diameter;  but  some  were  half-moons 
and  quite  a  breastwork.  This  I  understood  was  the 
chief  work,  which  was  the  principal  redoubt.  Their 
modes  of  constructing  them  are :  the  moment  they  ap- 
prehend or  discover  an  enemy  on  the  prairie,  they  com- 
mence digging  with  their  knives,  tomahawks,  and  a 
wooden  ladle;  and  in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time 
they  have  a  hole  sufficiently  deep  to  cover  themselves 
and  their  families  from  the  balls  or  arrows  of  the  enemy. 
They  have  no  idea  of  taking  those  subterraneous  re- 
doubts by  storm,  as  they  would  probably  lose  a  great 
number  of  men  in  the  attack;  and  although  they  might 
be  successful  in  any  event,  it  would  be  considered  a 
very  imprudent  action.'' 

Something  should  be  said  of  the  men  who  accom- 
panied Pike  in  this  important  passage  of  the  river  from 
Prairie  du  Chien  to  La  Crosse  and  in  his  diplomatic 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  25 

encounter  with  the  Sioux  Indians.  Rienville,  whose 
name  Pike  misspelled  Reinalle,  was  a  French  half-breed, 
whose  influence  with  the  Indians  was  so  great  that  in 
the  war  of  18 12  he  was  placed  in  command  of  the  Sioux 
with  the  rank  and  pay  of  captain  and  distinguished  him- 
self both  by  his  gallantry  and  humanity.  Le  Feuille, 
reconstructing  Pike's  speUing,  was  known  to  the  English 
as  Falling  Leaf.  He  was  hereditary  chief  of  a  band  of 
Sioux;  a  small  man  wearing  a  patch  over  one  eye  and 
was  said  to  resemble  the  great  Conde.  He  was  held 
in  great  reverence  by  his  people,  and  unlike  most  of 
the  Sioux  held  that  the  Indians  would  prosper  only  as 
they  kept  at  peace  with  the  whites. 

"Sept.  i\th.  Embarked  early;  the  fog  so  thick  we 
could  not  distinguish  objects  20  yards.  When  we 
breakfasted  we  saw  nothing  of  Mr.  Frazer's  canoes. 
After  breakfast,  at  the  head  of  an  island,  met  Frazer's 
boats.  Wind  coming  on  fair,  we  hoisted  sail,  and 
found  that  we  were  more  on  an  equality  with  our  sails 
than  our  oars.  The  birch  canoes  sailed  very  well,  but 
we  were  able  to  outrow  them.  Met  the  remainder  of 
the  war-party  of  the  Sacs  and  Reynards  before  noted, 
returning  from  their  expedition  against  the  Sauteurs. 
I  directed  my  interpreter  to  ask  how  many  scalps 
they  had  taken.  They  replied  'None.'  He  added 
'for  they  were  all  squaws.'  For  which  I  reprimanded 
him.  Passed  the  mountain  which  stands  in  the  river; 
or,  as  the  French  say  'which  soaks  in  the  river.'  Came 
to  Prairie  Le  Aile  on  the  west.  Mr.  Frazer,  Bradley 
and  Sparks,  and  myself  went  out  to  hunt.     We  crossed 


26  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

first  a  dry  flat  prairie;  when  we  arrived  at  the  hills  we 
ascended  them  from  which  we  had  a  most  sublime  and 
beautiful  prospect.  On  the  right,  we  saw  the  moun- 
tains which  we  passed  in  the  morning  and  the  prairie 
in  their  rear;  like  distant  clouds,  the  mountains  at  the 
Prairie  Le  Cross;  on  our  left  and  under  our  feet,  the 
valley  between  the  two  barren  hills  through  which  the 
Mississippi  wound  itself  by  numerous  channels,  forming 
many  beautiful  islands,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  em- 
brace the  scene;  and  our  four  boats  under  full  sail,  their 
flags  streaming  before  the  wind.  It  was  altogether  a 
prospect  so  variegated  and  romantic  that  a  man  may 
scarcely  expect  to  enjoy  such  a  one  but  twice  or  thrice 
in  the  course  of  his  life.  I  proposed  keeping  the  hills 
until  they  led  to  the  river,  encamping  and  waiting  the 
next  day  for  our  boats;  but  Mr.  Frazer's  anxiety  to 
get  to  the  boats  induced  me  to  yield.  After  crossing  a 
very  thick  bottom,  fording  and  swimming  three  branches 
of  the  river,  and  crossing  several  morasses,  we  at  twelve 
o'clock  arrived  opposite  our  boats,  which  were  en- 
camped on  the  east  side.  We  were  brought  over. 
Saw  great  sign  of  elk,  but  had  not  the  good  fortune  to 
come  across  any  of  them.  My  men  saw  three  on  the 
shore.     Distance  21  miles." 

Passing  the  "Riviere  Embarass"  and  L'Eau  Claire 
the  boats  arrived  at  the  Le  Boeuf,  a  river  known  earlier 
as  the  "  River  of  Wild  Bulls,"  at  whose  head-waters  the 
Chippewa  Indians  lived.  Here  Mr.  Frazer  broke  one 
of  his  canoes,  and  failed  to  overtake  the  party  until  it 
had    made   the   "Grand    Encampment"    below   Lake 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  27 

Pepin,  so  called  because,  though  a  natural  formation, 
it  has  the  effect  of  a  fortification. 

''Sept.  16th.  After  supper,  the  wind  being  fair,  we 
put  off  with  the  intention  to  sail  across;  my  interpreter, 
Rosseau,  telling  me  that  he  had  passed  the  lake  twenty 
times,  but  never  once  in  the  day;  giving  as  a  reason 
that  the  wind  frequently  rose  and  detained  them  by 
day  in  the  lake.  But  I  believe  the  traders'  true  reason 
generally  is  their  fears  of  the  Sauteurs,  as  these  have 
made  several  strokes  of  war  at  the  mouth  of  this  river, 
never  distinguishing  betw^een  the  Sioux  and  their  traders. 
However,  the  wind  serving,  I  was  induced  to  go  on; 
and  accordingly  we  sailed,  my  boat  bringing  up  the 
rear,  for  I  had  put  the  sail  of  my  big  boat  on  my  batteau, 
and  a  mast  of  22  feet.  Mr.  Frazer  embarked  on  my 
boat.  At  first  the  breeze  was  very  gentle,  and  we  sailed 
with  our  violins  and  other  music  playing;  but  the  sky 
afterward  became  cloudy  and  quite  a  gale  arose.  My 
boat  plowed  the  swells,  sometimes  almost  bow  under. 
When  we  came  to  the  Traverse,  which  is  opposite  Point 
De  Sable,  we  thought  it  most  advisable,  the  lake  being 
very  much  disturbed  and  the  gale  increasing,  to  take 
harbor  in  a  bay  on  the  east.  One  of  the  canoes  and  my 
boat  came  in  well  together;  but,  having  made  a  fire  on 
the  point  to  give  notice  to  our  boats  in  the  rear,  they 
both  ran  on  a  bar  before  they  doubled  it,  and  were  near 
foundering;  but  by  jumping  in  the  lake  we  brought 
them  into  safe  harbor.     Distance  40  miles. 

"Sept,  ijth.  Although  there  was  every  appearance 
6f  a  storm,  we  embarked  at  half  past  six  o'clock,  the 


28  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

wind  fair;  but  before  we  had  hoisted  sail,  those  in  front 
had  struck  theirs.  The  wind  came  on  hard  ahead. 
The  sky  became  enflamed,  and  the  lightening  seemed 
to  roll  down  the  sides  of  the  hills  which  bordered  the 
shores  of  the  lake.  The  storm  in  all  its  grandeur, 
majesty,  and  horror  burst  upon  us  in  the  Traverse  while 
making  for  Point  du  Sable;  and  it  required  no  moderate 
exertion  to  weather  the  point  and  get  to  the  windward 
side  of  it.     Distance  three  miles. 

"There  we  found  Mr.  Cameron,  who  had  sailed  from 
the  prairie  on  the  5th;  he  had  three  bark  canoes  and  a 
wooden  one  with  him.  He  had  been  lying  here  two 
days,  his  canoes  unloaded  and  turned  up  for  the  hab- 
itation of  his  men,  his  tents  pitched,  and  himself  living 
in  all  the  ease  of  an  Indian  trader.  He  appeared  to  be 
a  man  of  tolerable  information,  but  rather  indolent  in 
his  habits;  a  Scotchman  by  birth,  but  an  Enghshman 
by  prejudice.  He  had  with  him  a  very  handsome 
young  man,  by  the  name  of  John  Rudsdell,  and  also 
his  own  son,  a  lad  of  fifteen. 

"The  storm  continuing,  we  remained  all  day.  I  was 
shown  a  point  of  rocks  from  which  a  Sioux  maiden 
cast  herself,  and  was  dashed  into  a  thousand  pieces  on 
the  rocks  below.  She  had  been  informed  that  her 
friends  intended  matching  her  to  a  man  she  despised; 
having  been  refused  the  man  she  had  chosen,  she  as- 
cended the  hill,  singing  her  death-song;  and  before 
they  could  overtake  her  and  obviate  her  purpose  she 
took  the  lover's  leap!  Thus  ended  her  troubles  with 
her  life.     A  wonderful  display  of  sentiment  in  a  savage ! " 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  29 

Crossing  the  lake  Pike  and  Mr.  Cameron  went  up 
the  Canoe  River,  now  corrupted  into  Cannon  River, 
where  they  met  a  small  band  of  Sioux  under  the  com- 
mand of  their  second  chief.  Red  Wing,  who  in  our  day 
has  given  his  name  to  the  town  of  Red  Wing.  He 
made  a  speech  and  presented  the  explorer  with  a  pipe, 
a  pouch  and  a  buffalo  skin.  "He  appeared  to  be  a 
man  of  sense,  and  promised  to  accompany  me  to  St. 
Peters  river.  He  saluted  me,  and  had  it  returned.  I 
made  him  a  small  present."  Thus  Pike  notes  in  his 
diary.  Dining  at  the  St.  Croix  River  Pike  left  Mr. 
Cameron  and  young  Frazer,  who  had  business  with 
the  Indians,  and  unhappily  lost  his  watch  that  he  had 
loaned  to  the  guard.  The  two  men  not  having  over- 
taken them  he  "fired  a  blunderbuss  at  Tattoo  to  signal 
them."  The  traders  not  having  come  up,  he  rested 
at  a  prairie  where  there  was  "a  large  painted  stone,"  a 
site  which  we  now  know  was  near  Red  Rock.  This 
stone  was  a  fragment  of  syenite  about  four  and  a  half 
feet  in  diameter,  known  by  the  Indians  as  Red  Medicine 
Stone,  and  on  which  the  Indians  offer  presents  to  the 
Great  Father.  Here  Pike  remained  over  night,  and  the 
men  not  coming  up  he  crossed  to  a  Sioux  village  on  the 
east  side  of  which  he  writes : 

"  It  consists  of  1 1  lodges,  and  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  an  island  just  below  a  ledge  of  rocks.  The  village 
was  evacuated  at  this  time,  all  the  Indians  having  gone 
out  to  the  lands  to  gather  fols  avoin.  About  two  miles 
above,  saw  three  bears  swimming  over  the  river,  but 
at  too  great  a  distance  for  us  to  have  killed  them;  they 
made  the  shore  before  I  could  come  up  with  them. 


30  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Passed  a  camp  of  Sioux,  of  four  lodges,  in  which  I  saw 
only  one  man,  whose  name  was  Black  Soldier.  The 
garrulity  of  the  women  astonished  me,  for  at  the  other 
camps  they  never  opened  their  lips;  but  here  they 
flocked  around  us  with  all  their  tongues  going  at  the 
same  time.  The  cause  of  this  freedom  must  have 
been  the  absence  of  their  lords  and  masters.  Passed 
the  encampment  of  Mr.  Ferrebault,  who  had  broken  his 
peroque  and  had  encamped  on  the  west  side  of  the  river, 
about  three  miles  below  St.  Peters.  We  made  our  en- 
campment on  the  N.  E.  point  of  the  big  island  opposite 
St.  Peters.     Distance  24  miles." 

Pike  was  now  camping  on  what  is  to-day  Fort  Snel- 
ling.  Mr.  Feribault,  to  whom  he  alludes,  was  a  French 
Canadian  engaged  in  trading  with  the  Indians.  He 
had  married  a  half-breed  and  the  Indian  name  of  Chah- 
pah-sin-tay,  meaning  "Beaver  Tail,"  was  given  to  him. 
He  attached  himself  to  the  American  cause  during 
the  war  of  18 12,  imperilling  both  his  life  and  fortune. 
He  was  always  a  friend  to  the  red  man,  encouraging 
him  in  industry  and  agriculture,  and  was  of  valuable 
service  to  the  United  States  in  arranging  treaties  with 
the  Indians. 

''Sept.  21  St,  The  Mississippi  became  so  narrow  to- 
day, that  I  crossed  in  my  batteaus  with  forty  strokes 
of  my  oars.  The  water  of  the  Mississippi  since  we 
passed  Lake  Pepin  has  been  remarkably  red;  and  where 
it  is  deep,  appears  as  black  as  ink.  The  waters  of 
the  St.  Croix  and  St.  Peters  appear  blue  and  clear,  for 
a  considerable  distance  below  their  confluence. 

"I  observed  a  white  flag  on  shore  to-day,  and  on 


St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul  31 

landing,  discovered  it  to  be  white  silk;  it  was  suspended 
over  a  scaffold,  on  which  were  laid  four  dead  bodies, 
two  inclosed  in  boards,  and  two  in  bark.  They  were 
wrapped  up  in  blankets,  which  appeared  to  be  quite 
new.  They  were  the  bodies,  I  was  informed  of  two 
Sioux  women,  one  of  their  children,  and  some  other  rela- 
tive; two  of  whom  had  died  at  St.  Peters  and  two  at 
St.  Croix,  but  were  brought  here  to  be  deposited  on  this 
scaffold  together.  This  is  the  manner  of  Sioux  burial 
when  persons  die  a  natural  death;  but  when  they 
are  killed  they  suffer  them  to  lie  unburied.  This  cir- 
cumstance brought  to  my  recollection  the  bones  of  a 
man  I  found  on  the  hills  below  the  St.  Croix;  the 
jaw  bone  I  brought  on  board.  He  must  have  been 
killed  on  that  spot." 


CHAPTER  II 

ST.  PAUL  TO  LEECH  LAKE 

September  22D,  1805- January  31ST,  1806 

"Sunday,  Sept.  22d.  Employed  in  the  morning 
measuring  the  river.  About  three  o'clock  Mr.  Frazer 
and  his  peroques  arrived;  and  in  three  hours  after  Petit 
Corbeau,  at  the  head  of  his  band,  arrived  with  150  war- 
riors. 

"They  ascended  the  hill  in  the  point  between  the 
Mississippi  and  St.  Peters,  and  gave  us  a  salute,  a  la 
mode  savage,  with  balls;  after  which  we  settled  affairs 
for  the  council  next  day.  Mr.  Frazer  and  myself  took 
a  bark  canoe,  and  went  up  to  the  village,  in  order  to 
see  Mr.  Cameron.  We  ascended  the  St.  Peters  to  the 
village,  and  found  his  camp.  He  engaged  to  be  at 
the  council  the  next  day,  and  promised  to  let  me  have 
his  barge.  The  Sioux  had  marched  on  a  war  excursion; 
but,  hearing  by  express  of  my  arrival,  they  returned  by 
land.  We  were  treated  very  hospitably,  and  hallooed 
after  to  go  into  lodge  to  eat.  Returned  to  our  camp 
about  eleven  o'clock,  and  found  the  Sioux  and  my 
men  peaceably  encamped.     No  current  in  the  river. 

^'Sept.  23  J.  Prepared  for  the  council,  which  we  com- 
menced about  twelve  o'clock.     I  had  a  bower  or  shade, 

3a 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  33 

made  of  my  sails,  on  the  beach,  into  which  only  my 
gentlemen  (the  traders)  and  the  chiefs  entered.  I  then 
addressed  them  in  a  speech,  which,  though  long  and 
touching  on  many  points,  had  for  its  principal  object 
the  granting  of  land  at  this  place,  falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
and  St.  Croix,  and  making  peace  with  the  Chipeways. 
I  was  replied  to  by  Le  Fils  de  Pinchot,  Le  Petit  Cor- 
beau,  and  TOriginal  Leve.  They  gave  me  the  land 
required,  about  100,000  acres,  equal  to  ;?200,ooo  and 
promised  me  a  safe  passport  for  myself  and  any  chiefs 
I  might  bring  down;  but  spoke  doubtfully  with  respect 
to  the  peace.  I  gave  them  presents  to  the  amount  of 
about  ;?200,  and  as  soon  as  the  council  was  over  I 
allowed  the  traders  to  present  them  with  some  liquors, 
which  I  myself  gave,  equal  to  60  gallons.  In  one-half 
hour  they  were  all  embarked  for  their  respective  vil- 
lages. 

"The  chiefs  in  Council  were:  Le  Petit  Corbeau; 
who  signed  the  grant;  Le  Fils  de  Pinchot,  who  also 
signed;  Le  Grand  Partisan;  L'Original  Leve,  war 
chief;  gave  him  my  father's  tomahawk;  Le  Demi 
Douzen,  war  chief;  Le  Becasse;  Le  Boeuf  qui  Marche. 

"It  was  somewhat  difficult  to  get  them  to  sign  the 
grant,  as  they  conceived  their  word  of  honor  should  be 
taken  for  the  grant  without  any  mark;  but  I  convinced 
them  it  was  not  on  their  account,  but  my  own  that  I 
wished  them  to  sign  it." 

The  influence  of  the  French  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try may  be  noted  in  the  fact  that  Pike  does  not  use  the 
Indian  names  of  these  chiefs.     Little  Crow  was  one  of 


34  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

the  greatest  chiefs  of  the  Sioux,  and  twenty-six  years 
later  was  the  spokesman  of  his  tribe  at  the  second 
council  held  at  Fort  Snelling.  Le  Fils  de  Pinchot  was 
the  chief  of  the  Lake  tribes.  The  name  signifies  "what 
is  he  afraid  of"  and  was  given  to  his  father.  L'Original 
Leve  must  be  translated  Standing  Moose.  This  Ind- 
ian refused  to  join  the  war  party  against  the  American 
in  1 8 12,  and  went  into  the  service  of  General  Clark 
at  St.  Louis.  He  was  known  in  Minnesota  as  "Toma- 
haw,"  and  with  his  one  eye  and  stove  pipe  hat  was  a 
well  known  character  about  St.  Paul.  A  daguerrotype 
of  him  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Minnesota  Historical 
Society.  Le  Becasse,  a  corruption  of  bras  casse,  or 
broken  arm,  was  a  Sac  chief.  The  whiskey  that  Pike 
bestowed  on  these  Indians  was  what  was  known  at  the 
time  as  "made"  whiskey — that  is  to  say  two  gallons  of 
water  to  one  of  whiskey;  these  were  the  proportions 
usually  observed  in  dealing  with  the  Indians. 

''Sept.  2^th.  In  the  morning  I  discovered  that  my 
flag  was  missing  from  my  boat.  Being  in  doubt  whether 
it  had  been  stolen  by  the  Indians,  or  had  fallen  over- 
board and  had  floated  away,  I  sent  for  my  friend.  Orig- 
inal Leve,  and  sufficiently  evinced  to  him,  by  the  vehem- 
ence of  my  action,  by  the  immediate  punishment  of 
my  guard  (having  afflicted  on  one  of  them  corporal 
punishment)  and  by  sending  down  the  shore  three  miles 
in  search  of  it,  how  much  displeased  I  was  that  such  a 
thing  should  have  occurred.  I  sent  a  flag  and  two 
carrots  of  tobacco  by  Mr.  Cameron  to  the  Sioux  at  the 
head  of  the  St.  Peters;  made  a  small  draft  of  the  posi- 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  35 

tion  at  this  place;  sent  up  the  boat  I  got  from  Mr. 
Fisher  to  the  village  on  the  St.  Peters,  and  exchanged 
her  for  a  barge  with  Mr.  Duncan.  My  men  returned 
with  the  barge  about  sundown.  She  was  a  fine  light 
thing;  eight  men  were  able  to  carry  her.  Employed 
all  day  in  writing. 

*'Sept.  zyh.  I  was  awakened  out  of  my  bed  by  Le 
Petit  Corbeau  to  see  if  we  were  all  killed,  or  if  any  acci- 
dent had  happened  to  us.  This  was  in  consequence 
of  having  found  my  flag  floating  three  miles  below  their 
village,  1 5  miles  hence,  from  which  they  concluded  some 
affray  had  taken  place,  and  that  it  had  been  thrown 
overboard.  Although  I  considered  this  an  unfortunate 
accident  for  me,  I  was  exceedingly  happy  at  its  effect; 
for  it  was  the  occasion  of  preventing  much  bloodshed 
among  the  savages.  A  chief  called  Outard  Blanche 
had  his  lip  cut  off",  and  had  come  to  Petit  Corbeau  and 
told  him,  that  his  face  was  his  looking-glass,  that  it 
was  spoiled,  and  that  he  was  determined  on  revenge. 
The  parties  were  charging  their  guns  and  preparing  for 
action,  when  lo!  the  flag  appeared  like  a  messenger 
of  peace  sent  to  prevent  their  bloody  purposes.  They 
were  all  astonished  to  see  it.  The  staff*  was  broken. 
Then  Petit  Corbeau  arose  and  spoke  to  this  effiect: 
That  a  thing  so  sacred  had  not  been  taken  from  my 
boat  without  violence;  that  it  would  be  proper  for  them 
to  hush  all  private  animosities,  until  they  had  revenged 
the  cause  of  their  eldest  brother;  that  he  would  im- 
mediately go  up  to  St.  Peters,  to  know  what  dogs  had 
done  that  thing,  in  order  to  take  steps  to  get  satisfac- 


36  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

tion  of  those  who  had  done  the  mischief.  They  all 
listened  to  this  reasoning;  he  immediately  had  the  flag 
put  out  to  dry,  and  embarked  for  my  camp.  I  was 
much  concerned  to  hear  of  the  blood  likely  to  have  been 
shed,  and  gave  him  five  yards  of  calico,  one  handker- 
chief, one  carrot  of  tobacco,  and  one  knife,  in  order  to 
make  peace  among  his  people.  He  promised  to  send 
my  flag  by  land  to  the  falls,  and  make  peace  with 
Outard  Blanche.  Mr.  Frazer  went  up  to  the  village. 
We  embarked  late,  and  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the 
rapids.  In  many  places  I  could  scarce  throw  a  stone 
over  the  river.     Distance  three  miles. 

^^Sept.  26th.  Embarked  at  the  usual  hour,  and  after 
much  labor  in  passing  through  the  rapids,  arrived  at 
the  foot  of  the  falls  about  three  or  four  o'clock;  un- 
loaded my  boat,  and  had  the  principal  part  of  the  cargo 
carried  over  the  portage  with  the  other  boat;  however, 
full  loaded,  they  were  not  able  to  get  over  the  last 
shoot;  and  encamped  about  600  yards  below.  I 
pitched  my  tent  and  encamped  above  the  shoot.  The 
rapids  mentioned  in  this  day's  march  might  be  called  a 
continuation  of  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  for  they  are 
equally  entitled  to  the  appellation  with  the  falls  of  the 
Delaware  and  Susquehanna.  Killed  one  deer.  Dis- 
tance nine  miles. 

^'Sept.  2yth.  Brought  over  the  residue  of  my  lading 
this  morning.  Two  men  arrived  from  Mr.  Frazer's  on 
St.  Peters,  for  my  despatches.  This  business  of  closing 
and  sealing  appeared  like  a  last  adieu  to  the  civilized 
world.     Sent  a  large  packet  to  the  general,  and  a  letter 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  37 

to  Mrs.  Pike,  with  a  short  note  to  Mr.  Frazer.  The 
young  Indians  brought  my  flag  across  by  land;  they 
arrived  yesterday  just  as  we  came  in  sight  of  the  falls.  I 
made  them  a  present  for  their  punctuality  and  expedi- 
tion, and  the  danger  they  were  exposed  to  from  the 
journey.  Carried  our  boats  out  of  the  river  as  far  as  the 
bottom  of  the  hill. 

'^Sept,  28/A.  Brought  my  barge  over,  and  put  her  in 
the  river  above  the  falls.  While  we  were  engaged  with 
her,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  camp,  seven  Indians 
painted  black  appeared  on  the  heights.  We  had  left 
our  guns  in  camp,  and  were  entirely  defenceless.  It 
occurred  to  me  that  they  were  a  small  party  of  SiouX;, 
who  were  obstinate,  and  who  would  go  to  war  when 
the  other  bands  came  in.  These  they  proved  to  be 
They  were  better  armed  than  any  I  had  seen,  having 
guns,  bows,  arrows,  clubs,  spears,  and  some  of  them 
even  a  case  of  pistols.  I  was  at  that  time  giving  my 
men  a  dram,  and  giving  the  cup  of  liquor  to  the  first 
he  drank  it  ofF;  but  I  was  more  cautious  with  the  re- 
mainder. I  sent  my  interpreter  to  camp  with  them  to 
wait  my  coming,  wishing  to  purchase  one  of  their  war 
clubs,  which  was  made  of  elk  horn  and  decorated  with 
inlaid  work.  This  and  a  set  of  bows  and  arrows  I 
wished  to  get  as  a  curiosity.  But  the  liquor  I  had 
given  him  beginning  to  operate,  he  came  back  for  me; 
refusing  to  go  until  I  brought  my  boat,  he  returned 
(and  I  suppose  being  offended)  borrowed  a  canoe  and 
crossed  the  river.  In  the  afternoon  we  got  the  other 
boat  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  when  the  props  gave  way. 


38  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

and  she  slid  all  the  way  to  the  bottom,  but  fortunately 
without  injuring  any  person.  It  raining  very  hard,  we 
left  her.     Killed  one  goose  and  a  raccoon. 

*^ Sunday,  2gth.  I  killed  a  remarkably  large  raccoon. 
Got  our  large  boat  over  the  portage,  and  put  her  in  the 
river  at  the  upper  landing.  This  night  the  men  gave 
sufficient  proof  of  their  fatigue,  by  all  throwing  them- 
selves down  to  sleep,  preferring  rest  to  supper.  This 
day  I  had  but  15  men  out  of  22;   the  others  were  sick. 

"This  voyage  could  have  been  performed  with  great 
convenience  if  we  had  taken  our  departure  in  June. 
But  the  proper  time  would  be  to  leave  the  Illinois  as 
soon  as  the  ice  would  permit,  when  the  river  would  be  of 
a  good  height. 

^^Sept.  ^oth.  Loaded  my  boat,  moved  over  and  en- 
camped on  the  island.  The  large  boats  loading  like- 
wise, we  went  over  and  put  on  board.  In  the  mean- 
time I  took  a  survey  of  the  Falls,  Portage,  etc.  If  it  be 
possible  to  pass  the  falls  at  high  water,  of  which  I  am 
doubtful,  it  must  be  on  the  east  side,  about  30  yards 
from  shore,  as  there  are  three  layers  of  rocks  one  below 
the  other.  The  pitch  off  each  is  not  more  than  five 
feet;  but  of  this  I  can  say  more  on  my  return.  (It  is 
never  possible,  as  ascertained  on  my  return.)" 

The  treaty  just  executed  ceded  to  the  Government 
nine  miles  square,  including  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 
A  blank  space  was  left  for  payment.  This  was  subse- 
quently filled  in  by  an  act  of  Congress  authorizing  the 
payment  of  foooo  for  the  tract.  In  the  letter  written 
by  Pike  to  General  Wilkinson,  which  he  alludes  to  as 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  39 

his  farewell  to  civilization,  he  states  that  he  gave  to  the 
two  chiefs  at  the  time  $250  in  goods  and  promised  that 
an  army  post  should  be  maintained  at  the  junction  of 
the  St.  Croix  and  the  Mississippi  Rivers,  and  the  Sioux 
defended  against  the  Chippewas  should  they  again  take 
up  the  hatchet.  In  this  letter  he  also  commends  to  the 
commanding  general,  the  interpreter,  Reinville,  and 
young  Mr.  Frazer,  of  whom  he  writes:  "Although 
not  possessing  the  advantages  of  a  polished  education, 
inherits  that  without  which  an  education  serves  but  to 
add  to  frivolity  of  character — candor,  bravery,  and  that 
amor  pair i a  which  distinguishes  the  good  of  every  nation, 
from  Nova  Zembla  to  the  line." 

Immediately  after  he  says  in  less  exalted  language: 
"Finding  that  the  traders  were  playing  the  devil 
with  their  rum,  I  yesterday  in  council  informed  the 
Indians  that  their  father  had  prohibited  the  selling  of 
liquor  to  them,  and  that  they  would  oblige  him  and 
serve  themselves  if  they  would  prevent  their  young  men 
from  paying  the  credits  of  any  trader  who  sold  rum  to 
them,  at  the  same  time  charging  the  chiefs  to  treat 
them  well;  as  their  father,  although  good,  would  not 
again  forgive  them,  but  punish  with  severity  any  in- 
juries committed  on  their  traders.  This,  I  presume, 
General,  is  agreeable  to  the  spirit  of  the  laws.  Mr- 
Frazer  immediately  set  the  example,  by  separating  his 
spirits  from  the  merchandise  in  his  boats,  and  returning 
it  to  the  Prairie,  although  it  would  materially  injure 
him  if  the  other  traders  retained  and  sold  theirs.  In 
fact,  unless  there  are  some  persons  at  our  posts  here. 


40  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

when  established,  who  have  authority  effectually  to 
stop  the  evil  by  confiscating  the  liquors,  etc.,  it  will  still 
be  continued  by  the  weak  and  malevolent." 

The  business  of  getting  his  barges  over  the  portage 
proved  a  serious  matter.  Pike  himself  worked  with 
blistered  hands  until  on  the  morning  of  the  27th  when 
the  last  load  was  carried  over. 

The  weather  was  now  very  cold,  the  Mercury  at 
zero.  The  river  was  shallow  and  Pike  encountered  now 
islands  and  now  rapids  so  that,  "navigation  to  persons 
not  determined  to  proceed  would  have  been  impractica- 
ble." In  order  to  get  the  boats  over  the  shoals  and 
rapids  the  men  were  obliged  to  wade  almost  all  day  tow- 
ing them.  This  work  was  varied  only  by  shooting 
geese  and  swans  for  food.  Pike  notes  also  shooting 
an  unknown  animal  called  a  "brelaw,"  but  which  we 
know  as  the  badger.  They  were  soon  to  encounter 
numerous  elks  and  an  abundance  of  small  game.  Ob- 
serving a  "red  capot"  hung  on  a  tree,  which  the  in- 
terpreter said  was  a  sacrifice  by  the  Indian  to  the  "bon 
dieu,"  he  determined  to  lie  by  and  hunt  for  a  day.  All 
about  them  were  the  evidences  of  the  warfare  between 
the  Sioux  and  Chippewas,  whom  Pike  calls  Sauteurs,  for 
by  this  name,  taken  from  the  Sault  Sainte  Marie  on  the 
Superior  from  whence  the  tribe  came,  they  were  called 
by  the  French.  Being  on  dangerous  ground,  and  likely 
to  be  taken  for  Sioux  traders,  the  Commander  divided 
his  men  less  able  to  do  the  hard  work  of  towing,  into 
two  "  flankers  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  both  as  look- 
outs and  as  hunters." 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  41 

"Orf.  ^th.  Rained  in  the  morning;  but  the  wind 
serving,  we  embarked,  ahhough  it  was  extremely  raw 
and  cold.  Opposite  the  mouth  of  Crow  river  we  found 
a  bark  canoe  cut  to  pieces  with  tomahawks,  and  the 
paddles  broken  on  shore;  a  short  distance  higher  up 
we  saw  five  more,  and  continued  to  see  the  wrecks  until 
we  found  eight.  From  the  form  of  the  canoes  my  inter- 
preter pronounced  them  to  be  Sioux;  and  some  broken 
arrows  to  be  the  Sauteurs.  The  paddles  were  also 
marked  with  the  Indian  sign  of  men  and  women  killed. 
From  all  these  circumstances  we  drew  this  inference, 
that  the  canoes  had  been  the  vessels  of  a  party  of  Sioux 
who  had  been  attacked  and  all  killed  or  taken  by  the 
Sauteurs.  Time  may  develop  this  transaction.  My  in- 
terpreter was  much  alarmed,  assuring  me  that  it  was 
probable  that  at  our  first  rencounter  with  the  Chip- 
eways  they  would  take  us  for  Sioux  traders,  and  fire  on 
us  before  we  could  come  to  an  explanation;  that  they 
had  murdered  three  Frenchmen  whom  they  found  on 
the  shore  about  this  time  last  spring;  but  notwithstand- 
ing his  information,  I  was  on  shore  all  the  afternoon  in 
pursuit  of  elk.  Caught  a  curious  little  animal  on  the 
prairie,  which  my  Frenchman  termed  a  prairie  mole, 
but  it  is  very  different  from  the  mole  of  the  States. 
Killed  two  geese,  one  pheasant,  and  a  wolf." 

Pike  had  now  reached  what  we  know  as  Clear  Water. 
Here  he  found  numerous  islands  occupied  by  beavers, 
whose  dams  and  roadways  excited  his  wonder  and  ad- 
miration. The  river  was  becoming  so  impassable  by 
reason  of  shoals,  rapids,  rocks,  and  islands  that  it  was 


42  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

necessary  to  find  some  "wintering  ground,"  where  he 
might  leave  his  boats  and  take  to  canoes  for  the  rest 
of  his  journey.  He  had  now  arrived  at  timbered  land 
where  he  could  find  material  for  his  canoes,  and  bears 
and  porcupines  were  added  to  the  abundant  game 
which  engaged  his  hunters. 

''Oct,  nth.  Both  boats  passed  the  worst  of  the 
rapids  by  eleven  o'clock,  but  we  were  obliged  to  wade 
and  lift  them  over  rocks  where  there  was  not  a  foot  of 
water,  when  at  times  the  next  step  would  be  in  water 
over  our  heads.  In  consequence  of  this  our  boats  were 
frequently  in  imminent  danger  of  being  bilged  on  the 
rocks.  About  five  miles  above  the  rapids  our  large 
boat  was  discovered  to  leak  so  fast  as  to  render  it  neces- 
sary to  unload  her,  which  we  did.  Stopped  the  leak 
and  reloaded.  Near  a  war-encampment  I  found  a 
painted  buckskin  and  a  piece  of  scarlet  cloth,  suspended 
by  the  limb  of  a  tree;  this  I  supposed  to  be  a  sacrifice 
to  Matcho  Manitou,  to  render  their  enterprise  success- 
ful; but  I  took  the  liberty  of  invading  the  rights  of  his 
diabolical  majesty,  by  treating  them  as  the  priests  of 
old  have  often  done — that  is,  converting  the  sacrifice 
to  my  own  use.  Killed  only  two  ducks.  Distance  8 
miles. 

''Oct.  i6th.  When  we  arose  in  the  morning  found 
that  snow  had  fallen  during  the  night;  the  ground  was 
covered,  and  it  continued  to  snow.  This  indeed  was  but 
poor  encouragement  for  attacking  the  rapids,  in  which 
we  were  certain  to  wade  to  our  necks.  I  was  deter- 
mined, however,  if  possible,  to  make  la  riviere  de  Cor- 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  43 

beau,  the  highest  point  ever  made  by  traders  in  their 
bark  canoes.  We  embarked,  and  after  four  hours' 
work  became  so  benumbed  with  cold  that  our  limbs 
were  perfectly  useless.  We  put  to  shore  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river,  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  up 
the  rapids.  Built  a  large  fire;  and  then  discovered  that 
our  boats  were  nearly  half-full  of  water,  both  having 
sprung  such  large  leaks  as  to  oblige  me  to  keep  three 
hands  bailing.  My  Sergeant  Kennerman,  one  of  the 
stoutest  men  I  ever  knew,  broke  a  blood-vessel  and 
vomited  nearly  two  quarts  of  blood.  One  of  my  cor- 
porals, Bradley,  also  evacuated  nearly  a  pint  of  blood. 
These  unhappy  circumstances,  in  addition  to  the  in- 
abihty  of  four  other  men,  whom  we  were  obliged  to 
leave  on  shore,  convinced  me  that  if  I  had  no  regard 
for  my  own  health  and  constitution,  I  should  have  some 
for  those  poor  fellows,  who  were  killing  themselves  to 
obey  my  orders.  After  we  had  breakfasted  and  re- 
freshed ourselves,  we  went  down  to  our  boats  on  the 
rocks,  where  I  was  obliged  to  leave  them.  I  then  in- 
formed my  men  that  we  would  return  to  the  camp,  and 
there  leave  some  of  the  party  and  our  large  boats.  This 
information  was  pleasing,  and  the  attempt  to  reach  the 
camp  soon  accomplished. 

"My  reasons  for  this  step  have  partly  been  already 
stated.  The  necessity  of  unloading  and  refitting  my 
boats,  the  beauty  and  convenience  of  the  spot  for 
building  huts,  the  fine  pine  trees  for  peroques,  and 
the  quantity  of  game,  were  additional  inducements. 
We  immediately  unloaded  our  boats  and  secured  their 


44  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

cargoes.  In  the  evening  I  went  out  upon  a  small  but 
beautiful  creek  which  empties  into  the  falls  for  the 
purpose  of  selecting  pine  trees  to  make  canoes.  Saw 
five  deer,  and  killed  one  buck  weighing  137  pounds. 
By  my  leaving  men  at  this  place,  and  from  the  great 
quantities  of  game  in  this  vicinity,  I  was  insured  plenty 
of  provision  for  my  return  voyage.  In  the  party  left 
behind  was  one  hunter,  to  be  continually  employed, 
who  would  keep  our  stock  of  salt  provisions  good. 
Distance  233  miles  above  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony. 

"Cut  60  logs  for  huts  and  worked  at  the  canoes," 
Pike  writes  later  on.  **This  considering  we  had  only 
two  felling  axes  and  three  hatchets  was  pretty  good 
work."  These  labors  on  his  part  were  varied  by  pro- 
viding for  all  contingencies  in  case  he  should  never  re- 
turn. His  instructions  to  Sergeant  Kennerman,  who 
was  to  be  left  in  charge  of  the  little  post  he  was  con- 
structing disclose  Pike's  careful  and  judicious  attention 
to  detail. 

"Pine  Creek  Rapids,  Oct.  ist.  1805. 
"You  are  to  remain  here  with  the  party  under  your 
command,  subject  to  the  following  instructions:  Your 
guards  to  consist  of  one  non-commissioned  officer  and 
three  privates,  yourself  mounting  in  regular  rotation, 
making  one  sentinel  by  day  and  by  night;  until  your 
position  is  inclosed  by  pickets,  every  man  is  to  be  em- 
ployed on  that  object;  after  which  Sparks  is  to  be  em- 
ployed in  hunting;  but  this  will  by  no  means  excuse 
him  from  his  tour  of  guard  at  night  when  in  the  stock- 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  45 

ade,  but  he  must  be  reheved  during  the  day  by  another 
man. 

"  Should  any  Indians  visit  you  previous  to  having  your 
works  complete,  divide  your  men  between  the  two 
blockhouses,  and  on  no  conditions  suffer  a  savage  to 
enter  the  one  where  the  stores  are,  and  not  more  than 
one  or  two  into  the  other;  but  should  you  be  so  fortunate 
as  not  to  be  discovered  until  your  works  are  completed, 
you  may  admit  three,  without  arms,  and  no  more,  to 
enter  at  once,  at  the  same  time  always  treating  them 
with  as  much  friendship  as  is  consistent  with  your  own 
safety. 

"You  are  furnished  with  some  tobacco  to  present 
them  with,  but  on  no  condition  are  you  ever  to  give  them 
one  drop  of  liquor;  inform  them  that  I  have  taken  it 
all  with  me.  From  the  arrangements  I  have  made 
with  the  Sioux  it  is  presumable  they  will  treat  you  with 
friendship;  but  the  Chipeways  may  be  disposed  to 
hostilities,  and,  should  you  be  attacked,  calculate  on 
surrendering  only  with  your  life.  Instruct  your  men 
not  to  fire  at  random,  nor  ever,  unless  the  enemy  is  near 
enough  to  make  him  a  point-blank  shot.  This  you 
must  particularly  attend  to,  and  punish  the  first  man 
found  acting  in  contradiction  thereto.  The  greatest 
economy  must  be  used  with  the  ammunition  and  pro- 
visions. Of  the  latter  I  shall  furnish  Sparks  with  his 
proportion;  and  at  any  time  should  a  man  accompany 
him  for  a  day's  hunt,  furnish  him  with  four  or  five  balls 
and  extra  powder,  and  on  his  return  take  away  what 
is  left  from  him.     The  provisions  must  be  issued  agree- 


46  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

ably  to  the  following  proportion:  For  four  days  80 
lbs.  of  fresh  venison,  elk,  or  buffalo,  or  60  lbs.  fresh 
bear  meat  with  one  quart  of  salt  for  that  period.  The 
remainder  of  what  is  killed  keep  frozen  in  the  open  air 
as  long  as  possible,  or  salt  and  smoke  it  so  as  to  lay  up 
meat  for  my  party  and  us  all  to  descend  the  river  with. 
If  you  are  obliged,  through  failure  of  your  hunter,  to 
issue  out  of  our  reserved  provisions,  you  will  deliver 
for  four  days,  18  lbs.  of  bacon  or  pork,  and  18  lbs.  of 
flour  only.  This  will  be  sufficient  and  must  in  no  in- 
stance be  exceeded.  No  whiskey  will  be  issued  after 
the  present  barrel  Is  exhausted,  at  half  a  gill  per  man 
per  day. 

"Our  boats  are  turned  up  at  your  gate.  You  will 
make  a  barrel  of  pitch,  and  give  them  a  complete  re- 
pairing to  be  ready  for  us  to  descend  in. 

"I  have  delivered  to  you  my  journals  and  observa- 
tions to  this  place,  with  a  letter  accompanying  them  to 
his  Excellency,  General  James  Wilkinson,  which  should 
I  not  return  by  the  time  hereafter  specified,  you  will  con- 
vey to  him  and  deliver  personally,  requesting  him  to 
deliver  the  others  committed  to  your  charge. 

"You  will  observe  the  greatest  discipline  and  justice 
in  your  command.  I  expect  the  men  will  conduct  them- 
selves in  such  manner  that  there  will  be  no  complaints 
on  my  return,  and  that  they  will  be  ready  to  account 
to  a  higher  tribunal.  The  date  of  my  return  Is  uncer- 
tain; but  let  no  Information  or  reports  except  from 
under  my  own  hands,  Induce  you  to  quit  this  place  until 
one  month  after  the  Ice  has  broken  up  at  the  head  of  the 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  47 

river;  when,  if  I  am  not  arrived,  it  will  be  reasonable 
to  suppose  that  some  disastrous  events  detain  us,  and 
you  may  repair  to  St.  Louis.  You  are  taught  to  dis- 
criminate between  my  baggage  and  the  United  States 
property.  The  latter  deliver  to  the  assistant  military 
agent  at  St.  Louis,  taking  his  receipts  for  the  same;  the 
former,  if  in  your  power,  to  Mrs.  Pike. 

"Your  party  is  regularly  supplied  with  provisions,  to 
include  the  8th  of  December  only,  from  which  time  you 
are  entitled  to  draw  on  the  United  States. 

"Z.  M.  Pike,  Ur 

Two  block-houses  were  built  and  two  canoes.  Pike 
and  his  men  were  now  ready  to  continue  their  journey 
up  the  river,  when  one  of  the  canoes  loaded  with  pro- 
visions and  ammunition  was  sunk  through  a  flaw  in  the 
wood,  which  he  speaks  of  as  **  wind-shake."  One  mis- 
fortune followed  another.  In  drying  the  cartridges  he 
saved  only  five  dozen  out  of  thirty,  and  in  drying  the 
powder  it  exploded  and  almost  blew  up  the  tent  and 
several  of  the  men.  He  determined  to  lay  over  and 
build  another  and  larger  canoe,  and  meanwhile  place  the 
little  garrison  in  a  state  of  defence.  He  writes:  "Had 
it  not  been  for  various  political  reasons,  I  would  have 
laughed  at  the  attack  of  800  or  1,000  savages  if  my 
party  were  within.  For,  except  accidents,  it  would  have 
only  afibrded  amusement,  the  Indians  having  no  idea  of 
taking  a  place  by  storm." 

Here  follows  the  record  of  an  interesting  mental  ex- 
perience : 


48  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"Found  myself  powerfully  attacked  with  the  fantas- 
tics  of  the  brain  called  ennui,  at  the  mention  of  which 
I  had  hitherto  scoffed;  but  my  books  being  packed  up, 
I  was  like  a  person  entranced,  and  could  easily  conceive 
why  so  many  persons  who  had  been  confined  to  remote 
places  acquired  the  habit  of  drinking  to  excess  and 
many  other  vicious  practices,  which  have  been  adopted 
merely  to  pass  time. 

**Nov.  2d.  Left  the  camp  with  the  fullest  deter- 
mination to  kill  an  elk,  if  it  were  possible,  before  my 
return.  I  never  had  killed  one  of  those  animals.  Took 
Miller,  whose  obliging  disposition  made  him  agreeable 
in  the  woods.  I  was  determined,  if  we  came  on  the 
trail  of  elk,  to  follow  them  a  day  or  two  in  order  to  kill 
one.  This,  to  a  person  acquainted  with  the  nature  of 
those  animals,  and  the  extent  of  the  prairies  in  this 
country,  would  appear,  what  it  really  was,  a  very  fool- 
ish resolution.  We  soon  struck  where  a  herd  of  150 
had  passed.  Pursued  and  came  in  sight  about  eight 
o'clock,  when  they  appeared,  at  a  distance,  like  an 
army  of  Indians  moving  along  in  single  file;  a  large 
buck,  of  at  least  four  feet  between  the  horns,  leading 
the  van,  and  one  of  equal  magnitude  bringing  up  the 
rear.  We  followed  until  near  night,  without  once  being 
able  to  get  within  pointblank  shot.  I  once  made  Miller 
fire  at  them  with  his  musket,  at  about  400  yards'  dis- 
tance; it  had  no  other  efl^ect  than  to  make  them  leave 
us  about  five  miles  behind  on  the  prairie.  Passed 
several  deer  in  the  course  of  the  day,  which  I  think  we 
could  have  killed,  but  did  not  fire  for  fear  of  alarming 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  49 

the  elk.  Finding  that  it  was  no  easy  matter  to  kill 
one,  I  shot  a  doe  through  the  body,  as  I  perceived  by  her 
blood  where  she  lay  down  in  the  snow;  yet,  not  know- 
ing how  to  track,  we  lost  her.  Shortly  after  saw  three 
elk  by  themselves  near  a  copse  of  woods.  Approached 
near  them  and  broke  the  shoulder  of  one;  but  he  ran 
off  with  the  other  two  just  as  I  was  about  to  follow. 
Saw  a  buck  deer  lying  on  the  grass;  shot  him  between 
the  eyes,  when  he  fell  over.  I  walked  up  to  him,  put 
my  foot  on  his  horns,  and  examined  the  shot;  imme- 
diately after  which  he  snorted,  bounced  up,  and  fell 
five  steps  from  me.  This  I  considered  his  last  effort; 
but  soon  after,  to  our  utter  astonishment,  he  jumped 
up  and  ran  off.  He  stopped  frequently;  we  pursued 
him,  expecting  him  to  fall  every  minute;  by  which  we 
were  led  from  the  pursuit  of  the  wounded  elk.  After 
being  wearied  out  in  this  unsuccessful  chase  we  returned 
in  pursuit  of  the  wounded  elk,  and  when  we  came  up  to 
the  party,  found  him  missing  from  the  flock.  Shot 
another  in  the  body;  but  my  ball  being  small,  he  like- 
wise escaped.  Wounded  another  deer;  when,  hungry, 
cold,  and  fatigued,  after  having  wounded  three  deer 
and  two  elk,  we  were  obliged  to  encamp  in  a  point 
of  hemlock  woods,  on  the  head  of  Clear  river.  The 
large  herd  of  elk  lay  about  one  mile  from  us,  in  the 
prairie.  Our  want  of  success  I  ascribe  to  the  smallness 
of  our  balls,  and  to  our  inexperience  in  following  the 
track  after  wounding  the  game,  for  it  is  very  seldom  a 
deer  drops  on  the  spot  you  shoot  it. 

"Sunday,  Nov.  3 J.     Rose  pretty  early  and  went  in 


50  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

pursuit  of  the  elk.  Wounded  one  buck  deer  on  the 
way.  We  made  an  attempt  to  drive  them  into  the 
woods;  but  their  leader  broke  past  us,  and  it  appeared 
as  if  the  drove  would  have  followed  him,  though  they 
had  been  obliged  to  run  over  us.  We  fired  at  them 
passing,  but  without  effect.  Pursued  them  through 
the  swamp  till  about  ten  o'clock,  when  I  determined 
to  attempt  to  make  the  river,  and  for  that  purpose  took 
a  due  south  course.  Passed  many  droves  of  elk  and 
buffalo,  but  being  in  the  middle  of  an  immense  prairie, 
knew  it  was  folly  to  attempt  to  shoot  them.  Wounded 
several  deer,  but  got  none.  In  fact,  I  knew  I  could 
shoot  as  many  deer  as  anybody;  but  neither  myself 
nor  my  company  could  find  one  in  ten,  whereas  one 
experienced  hunter  could  get  all.  Near  night  struck  a 
lake  about  five  miles  long  and  two  miles  wide.  Saw 
immense  droves  of  elk  on  both  banks.  About  sundown 
saw  a  herd  crossing  the  prairie  towards  us.  We  sat 
down.  Two  bucks  more  curious  than  the  others, 
came  pretty  close.  I  struck  one  behind  the  fore  shoul- 
der; he  did  not  go  more  than  20  yards,  before  he  fell 
and  died.  This  was  the  cause  of  much  exultation, 
because  it  fulfilled  my  determination;  and,  as  we  had 
been  two  days  and  nights  without  victuals,  it  was  very 
acceptable.  Found  some  scrub  oak.  In  about  one 
mile  we  made  a  fire,  and  with  much  labor  and  pains 
got  our  meat  to  it;  the  wolves  feasting  on  one  half  of 
it  while  we  were  carrying  away  the  other.  We  were 
now  provisioned,  but  we  were  in  want  of  water,  the 
snow   being   melted.     Finding   the   drought   very   ex- 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  51 

cessive  in  the  night,  I  went  in  search  of  water,  and  was 
much  surprised,  after  having  gone  about  a  mile  to 
strike  the  Mississippi.  Filled  my  hat  and  returned  to 
my  companion. 

"Nov,  \th.  Repaired  my  mockinsons,  using  a  piece 
of  elk's  bone  as  an  awl.  We  both  went  to  the  Missis- 
sippi and  found  we  were  a  great  distance  from  the  camp. 
I  left  Miller  to  guard  the  meat  and  marched  for  camp. 
Having  strained  my  ankles  in  the  swamp,  they  were 
extremely  sore,  and  the  strings  of  my  mockinsons  made 
them  swell  considerably.  Before  I  had  gone  far  I  dis- 
covered a  herd  of  10  elk,  approached  behind  them  and 
shot  one  through;  he  fell,  rose  again  and  ran  off.  I 
pursued  him  at  least  five  miles,  expecting  every  moment 
to  see  him  drop.  I  then  gave  him  up.  When  I  arrived 
at  Clear  River  a  deer  was  standing  on  the  other  bank. 
I  killed  him  on  the  spot,  and  when  I  was  taking  out 
the  entrails  another  came  up.  I  shot  him  also.  This 
was  my  last  ball  and  then  only  could  I  kill.  Left  part 
of  my  clothes  at  this  place  to  scare  the  wolves.  Arrived 
at  the  camp  at  dark  to  the  great  joy  of  the  men  who  had 
been  to  our  little  garrison  to  inquire  for  me,  and  re- 
ceiving no  intelligence,  had  concluded  I  was  killed  by 
the  Indians,  having  heard  them  fire  on  the  opposite 
bank.  The  same  night  we  saw  fires  on  the  opposite 
shore  in  the  prairie;  this  was  likewise  seen  in  the  fort 
and  the  men  moved  within  the  works." 

Game  being  so  plentiful  the  men  persuaded  Pike  to 
continue  the  hunting.  Miller  and  Sparks  set  out  to 
follow  a  herd  of  buffalo  and  deer  down  the  river  in  a 


52  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

canoe.  The  snow  now  began  falling  and  the  river 
filling  with  ice.  The  men  not  returning  Pike  went  in 
search  of  them,  but  found  no  trace.  They  were  now 
among  the  hostile  Chippewas  and  liable  to  be  mistaken 
for  traders,  with  whom  the  Indians  were  at  enmity,  be- 
fore they  had  a  chance  of  explaining  to  the  Indians  who 
they  were  and  what  they  represented.  The  snow  was 
now  knee  deep,  and  wood  for  their  fires  found  only 
with  difficulty. 

'^Nov.Sth.  My  men  not  yet  arrived.  I  determined 
to  depart  for  the  garrison,  and  when  the  river  had 
frozen,  to  come  down  on  the  ice  with  a  party,  or, 
if  the  weather  became  mild,  by  water,  with  my  other 
peroques,  to  search  for  my  poor  men.  Put  up  about 
ten  pounds  of  meat,  two  blankets,  and  a  bearskin,  with 
my  sword  and  gun,  which  made  for  me  a  very  heavy 
load.  Left  the  meat  in  as  good  a  situation  as  possible, 
wrote  on  the  snow  my  wishes,  and  put  my  handker- 
chief up  as  a  flag.  Departed.  My  anxiety  of  mind 
was  so  great  that,  notwithstanding  my  load  and  the 
depth  of  the  snow,  I  made  into  the  bottom,  above  our 
former  hunting-camp,  a  Httle  before  night.  Passed 
several  deer  and  one  elk,  which  I  might  probably  have 
killed;  but  not  knowing  whether  I  should  be  able  to 
secure  the  meat  if  I  killed  them,  and  bearing  in  mind 
that  they  were  created  for  the  use  and  not  the  sport  of 
man,  I  did  not  fire  at  them.  While  I  was  endeavor- 
ing to  strike  fire  I  heard  voices,  and  looking  round, 
observed  Corporal  Meek  and  three  men  passing. 
Called  them  to  me,  and  we  embarked  together.     They 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  53 

were  on  their  march  down  to  see  if  they  could  render 
us  any  assistance  in  ascending  the  river.  They  were 
much  grieved  to  hear  my  report  of  the  other  men,  Cor- 
poral Bradley,  Sparks,  and  Miller. 

''Nov.  gth.  Snowed  a  Httle.  The  men  carried  my 
pack.  I  was  so  sore  that  it  was  with  difficulty  I  carried 
my  gun;  fortunately  they  brought  with  them  a  pair 
of  mockinsons,  sent  me  by  one  of  my  soldiers,  Owings, 
who  had  rightly  calculated  that  I  was  bare-foot;  also  a 
phial  of  whisky,  sent  by  the  sergeant;  were  both  very 
acceptable  to  me.  They  brought  also  some  tobacco  for 
my  lost  men.  We  experienced  difficulty  in  crossing  the 
river,  owing  to  the  ice.  Moved  into  the  post  my  com- 
mand, who  were  again  encamped  out,  ready  to  march 
up  the  river.  Set  all  hands  to  making  sleds,  in  order 
that  the  moment  the  river  closed  I  might  descend,  with 
a  strong  party,  in  search  of  my  lost  men.  Issued  pro- 
visions, and  was  obliged  to  use  six  venison  hams,  being 
part  of  a  quantity  of  elegant  hams  I  had  preserved  to 
take  down,  if  possible,  to  the  general  and  some  other 
friends.  Had  the  two  hunters  not  been  found,  I  must 
have  become  a  slave  to  hunting  in  order  to  support  my 
party." 

Not  only  a  slavish  but  precarious  Hfe  Pike  found  it, 
for  on  one  day  he  might  secure  600  pounds  of  meat, 
and  again  for  three  days  not  succeed  in  killing  a  bird. 
Miller  and  Sparks  at  length  arrived,  having  been  lost 
on  the  prairie,  and  not  able  to  find  a  deer.  Hunting 
camps  were  now  set  up  in  the  woods,  the  men  depend- 
ing on  their  kill  for  food.     In  these  the  men  suffered 


54  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

greatly  from  the  cold  which  froze  their  toes,  from  terrific 
storms  and  from  lack  of  food.  Pike  determined  to  re- 
turn to  the  stockade,  and  fortunately  fell  in  with  some 
deer,  and  discovering  signs  of  buffalo,  gave  chase. 
They  pursued  them  until  night  and  succeeded  only  in 
wounding  one. 

''Nov,  2^th,  Commenced  again  the  pursuit  of  the 
buffalo,  and  continued  till  eleven  o'clock,  when  I  gave  up 
the  chase.  Arrived  at  the  camp  about  sundown,  hungry 
and  weary,  having  eaten  nothing  since  we  left  it.  My 
rifle  carried  too  small  a  ball  to  kill  buffalo;  the  balls 
should  not  be  more  than  30  to  the  pound — an  ounce  ball 
would  be  still  preferable — and  the  animal  should  be 
hunted  on  horse-back.  I  think  that  in  the  prairies  of 
this  country  the  bow  and  arrow  could  be  used  to  more 
advantage  than  the  gun;  for  you  might  ride  immedi- 
ately alongside,  and  strike  them  where  you  pleased, 
leaving  them  to  proceed  after  others.     Thawing. 

''Nov.  2yth.  Took  one  man  and  marched  to  the 
post.  Found  all  well.  My  hunter,  Bradley,  had  killed 
II  deer  since  my  departure.  Sent  all  the  men  down 
to  help  the  party  up.  They  returned,  accompanied  by 
two  Indians,  who  informed  me  they  were  two  men  of  a 
band  who  resided  on  Lake  Superior,  called  the  Fols 
Avoins,  but  spoke  the  language  of  the  Chipeways. 
They  informed  me  that  Mr.  Dickson's  and  the  other 
trading-houses  were  established  about  60  miles  below, 
and  that  there  were  70  lodges  of  Sioux  on  the  Missis- 
sippi. All  my  men  arrived  at  the  post.  We  brought 
from  our  camp  below  the  balance  of  17  deer  and  2  elk. 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  55 

**Nov,  zSth,  The  Indians  departed,  much  pleased 
with  their  reception.  I  dispatched  Corporal  Meek  and 
one  private  down  to  Dickson  with  a  letter,  which  would 
at  least  have  the  effect  of  attaching  the  most  powerful 
tribes  in  this  quarter  to  my  interest. 

^^Nov,  2gth.  A  Sioux,  the  son  of  a  warrior  called  the 
Killeur  Rouge,  of  the  Gens  des  Feuilles,  and  a  Fols 
Avoin,  came  to  the  post.  He  said  that  having  struck  our 
trail  below  and  finding  some  shoe  tracks,  he  conceived 
it  to  be  the  establishment  of  some  traders,  took  it  and 
came  to  the  post.  He  informed  me  that  Mr.  Dickson 
told  the  Sioux  that  they  might  now  hunt  where  they 
pleased,  as  I  had  gone  ahead  and  would  cause  the 
Chipeways,  wherever  I  met  them  to  treat  them  with 
friendship;  that  I  had  barred  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Peters,  so  that  no  liquor  should  ascend  the  river;  but 
that  if  they  came  to  the  Mississippi  they  could  have 
all  they  wanted;  also  that  I  was  on  the  river  and  had 
a  great  deal  of  merchandise  to  give  them  as  presents. 
This  information  of  Mr.  Dickson  to  the  Indians  seemed 
to  have  self-interest  and  envy  for  its  motives;  for,  by 
the  idea  of  my  having  prevented  liquor  from  going  up 
the  St.  Peters  he  gave  the  Indians  to  understand  that  it 
was  a  regulation  of  my  own  and  not  a  law  of  the  United 
States;  by  assuring  them  that  he  would  sell  to  them 
on  the  Mississippi,  he  drew  all  the  Indians  from  the 
traders  on  the  St.  Peters,  who  had  adhered  to  the  re- 
strictions of  not  selling  liquor;  and  should  any  of  them 
be  killed  the  blame  would  all  lie  on  me,  as  he  had  without 
authority  assured  them  they  might  hunt  in  security*     I 


56  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

took  care  to  give  the  young  chief  a  full  explanation  of 
my  ideas  on  this  subject.  He  remained  all  night. 
Killed  two  deer." 

Mr.  Robert  Dickson  was  an  Englishman  who  had 
estabHshed  a  trading-house  among  the  Sioux  as  early  as 
1790.  Later  in  the  war  of  18 12  he  was  instrumental  in 
organizing  the  Indian  tribes  against  the  United  States. 
At  the  same  time  we  are  indebted  to  him  for  restrain- 
ing their  barbarities  toward  their  prisoners,  and  our 
women  and  children. 

Sparks  coming  up  the  river  made  known  to  his  leader 
that  Dickson  was  on  the  way  to  the  post  with  a  young 
Indian,  a  "Fols  Avoin,"  a  Menominee,  for,  as  "Folle 
Avoin"  this  tribe  was  known  by  the  French,  by  reason 
of  the  wild  rice  which  grew  so  abundantly  in  the  swampy 
prairies,  and  made  a  large  part  of  their  food. 

^'Dec.  T^rd.  Mr.  Dickson  with  an  engagee,  and  a 
young  Indian,  arrived  at  the  fort.  I  received  him  with 
every  politeness  in  my  power,  and  after  a  serious  con- 
versation with  him  on  the  subject  of  the  information 
given  me  on  the  29th  ult.,  was  induced  to  believe  it  in 
part  incorrect.  He  assured  me  that  no  Hquor  was  sold 
by  him,  or  by  any  houses  under  his  direction.  He 
gave  me  much  useful  information  relative  to  my  future 
route,  which  gave  me  great  encouragement  as  to  the 
certainty  of  my  accomplishing  the  object  of  my  voyage 
to  the  fullest  extent.  He  seemed  to  be  a  gentleman  of 
general  commercial  knowledge,  possessing  much  geo- 
graphical information  of  the  western  country,  and  of 
open,  frank  manners.     He  gave  me  many  assurances 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  57 

of  his  good  wishes  for  the  prosperity  of  my  under- 
taking. 

*^Dec,  ^th,  Mr.  Dickson,  with  his  two  men,  departed 
for  their  station,  after  having  furnished  me  with  a  letter 
for  a  young  man  of  his  house  on  Lake  de  Sable,  and  carte 
blanche  as  to  my  commands  on  him.     Weather  mild. 

*'Dec,  6th.  I  dispatched  my  men  down  to  bring  up 
the  other  peroque  with  a  strong  sled  on  which  it  was 
intended  to  put  the  canoe  about  one-third,  and  to  let 
the  end  drag  on  the  ice.  Three  families  of  the  Fols 
Avoins  arrived  and  encamped  near  the  fort;  also,  one 
Sioux,  who  pretended  to  have  been  sent  to  me  from 
the  Gens  des  Feuilles,  to  inform  me  that  the  Yanctongs 
and  Sussitongs,  two  bands  of  Sioux  from  the  head  of 
the  St.  Peters  and  the  Missouri,  and  the  most  savage 
of  them,  had  commenced  the  war-dance  and  would  de- 
part in  a  few  days;  in  which  case  he  conceived  it  would 
be  advisable  for  the  Fols  Avoins  to  keep  close  under 
my  protection ;  that  making  a  stroke  on  the  Chipeways 
would  tend  to  injure  the  grand  object  of  my  voyage,  etc. 
Some  reasons  induced  me  to  believe  he  was  a  self-created 
envoy;  however,  I  offered  to  pay  him,  or  any  young 
Sioux,  who  would  go  to  those  bands  and  carrj^  my 
word.  He  promised  to  make  known  my  wishes  upon 
his  return.  My  men  returned  in  the  evening  without 
my  canoe,  having  been  so  unfortunate  as  to  split  her  in 
carrying  her  over  the  rough  hilly  ice  in  the  ripples  below. 
So  many  disappointments  almost  wearied  out  my  pa- 
tience; notwithstanding,  I  intended  to  embark  by  land 
and  water  in  a  few  days. 


58  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

''Dec.  Jth.  An  Indian  by  the  name  of  Chien  Blanche, 
of  the  Fols  Avoin  tribe,  with  his  family  and  connections, 
arrived  and  encamped  near  the  stockade.  He  informed 
me  that  he  had  wintered  here  for  ten  years  past;  that 
the  sugar-camp  near  the  stockade  was  where  he  made 
sugar.  He  appeared  to  be  an  intelligent  man.  I  vis- 
ited his  camp  in  the  afternoon,  and  found  him  seated 
amidst  his  children  and  grandchildren,  amounting 
in  all  to  ten.  His  wife,  although  of  an  advanced  age, 
was  suckling  two  children  that  appeared  to  be  about 
two  years  old.  I  should  have  taken  them  to  be  twins, 
had  not  one  been  much  fairer  than  the  other.  Upon 
inquiry,  however,  I  found  that  the  fairest  was  the 
daughter  of  an  Englishman,  by  one  of  the  Indian's 
daughters,  lately  deceased;  since  whose  death  the 
grandmother  had  taken  it  to  the  breast.  His  lodge  was 
made  of  rushes  plaited  into  mats,  after  the  manner  of 
the  Illinois.  I  was  obliged  to  give  some  meat  to  all  the 
Indians  who  arrived  at  the  stockade,  at  the  same  time 
explaining  our  situation.  The  Chien  Blanche  assured 
me  it  should  be  repaid  with  interest  in  the  course  of 
the  winter,  but  that  at  that  time  he  was  without  any- 
thing to  eat.  In  fact,  our  hunters  having  killed  noth- 
ing for  several  days,  we  were  ourselves  on  short  allow- 
ance. 

"Dec.  Sth.  An  invalid  Sioux  arrived  with  the  infor- 
mation that  the  bands  of  the  Sussitongs  and  Yanctongs 
had  actually  determined  to  make  war  on  the  Chipeways, 
and  that  they  had  formed  a  party  of  150  or  160  men; 
but  that  part  of  the  Sussitongs  had  refused  to  go  to  war. 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  59 

and  would  be  here  on  a  visit  to  me  the  next  day.  This 
occasioned  me  to  delay  crossing  the  river  immediately, 
on  my  voyage  to  Lake  Lang  Sue,  as  it  was  possible  that 
by  having  a  conference  with  them  I  might  still  prevent 
the  stroke  intended  to  be  made  against  the  Chipeways. 

**Dec,  gth.  Prepared  to  embark.  Expecting  the 
Sioux  I  had  two  large  kettles  of  soup  made  for  them. 
Had  a  shooting  match  for  four  prizes.  The  Sioux  did 
not  arrive  and  we  ate  the  soup  ourselves.  Crossed  the 
river  and  encamped  above  the  rapids.  Wind  changed 
and  it  grew  cold." 

With  sleds  such  as  farmers  use  holding  two  barrels 
and  two  men  geared  abreast,  and  with  two  men  towing 
the  canoe  through  the  ice  and  over  the  rapids  of  the 
river,  the  party  started.  The  snow  having  melted  in 
spots  the  work  of  the  men  was  very  severe,  and  what 
seemed  more  hazardous,  game  on  which  they  depended 
for  food  became  scarce.  Pike  in  advance  reached  Little 
Elk  rapid  at  ten  o'clock  at  night,  made  a  fire  and  waited 
for  his  men.  Tired  out  they  camped  until  the  next 
afternoon  when  they  heard  firing  which  kept  up  until 
dark,  and  which  they  thought  to  be  from  the  warlike 
Chippewas,  and  so  felt  obliged  to  keep  a  strict  lookout. 

"Dec,  I2th.  The  snow  having  almost  entirely  left 
the  prairie,  we  were  obliged  to  take  on  but  one  sled  at  a 
time  and  treble  man  it.  In  the  morning  my  inter- 
preter came  to  me  with  quite  a  martial  air,  and  re- 
quested that  he  might  be  allowed  to  go  ahead  to  discover 
what  Indians  we  heard  fire  last  evening.  I  gave  him 
permission  and  away  he  went.     Shortly  after,  I  went 


6o  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

out  with  Corporal  Bradley  and  a  private,  and  in  about 
an  hour  overtook  my  partizan,  on  a  bottom  close  to  the 
river;  he  was  hunting  raccoons,  and  had  caught  five. 
We  left  him;  and  after  choosing  an  encampment  and 
sending  the  private  back  to  conduct  the  party  to  it,  the 
corporal  and  myself  marched  on,  anxious  to  discover 
the  Indians.  We  ascended  the  river  about  eight  miles; 
saw  no  Indians,  but  discovered  that  the  river  was  frozen 
over.  This  pleased  me  more,  for  we  would  now  be 
enabled  to  walk  three  times  our  usual  distance  in  a 
day. 

"I  was  much  surprised  that  we  saw  no  Indians.  After 
our  return  to  camp  I  was  told  that  a  Fols  Avoin  Indian 
had  met  my  party  and  informed  them  that  in  the  rear  of 
the  hills  that  bordered  the  prairie  there  were  many 
small  lakes  which  by  portages  communicated  with  Lake 
Superior;  that  in  one  day's  march  on  that  course  we 
would  find  English  trading-houses;  that  the  Chipeways 
were  there  hunting;  that  the  Sioux  who  had  visited  my 
camp  on  the  29th  ult.,  on  hearing  the  firing,  had  pru- 
dently returned  with  his  companions  to  the  west  side 
of  the  Mississippi,  agreeably  to  my  advice.  How 
persons  unacquainted  with  the  searching  spirit  of  trade 
and  the  enterprise  of  the  people  of  the  northwest  would 
be  surprised  to  find  people  who  had  penetrated  from 
Lake  Superior  to  lakes  little  more  than  marshes!  It 
likewise  points  out  the  difficulty  of  putting  a  barrier  on 
their  trade. 

"All  my  sleds  and  peroques  did  not  get  up  until  half- 
past  ten  o'clock.     Saw  a  very  beautiful  fox,  with  red 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  6i 

back,  white  tail  and  breast.  My  interpreter  called 
them  reynard  d'argent.  I  had  no  opportunity  of  shoot- 
ing him.     Killed  six  raccoons  and  one  porcupine." 

A  heavy  storm  now  overtook  them  and  a  succession 
of  troubles.  The  sled  holding  Pike's  baggage  and  am- 
munition fell  into  the  river  and  obliged  all  the  men  to 
jump  into  the  icy  water  up  to  their  middles  recovering 
the  things.  The  clothes  and  books  were  found  soaked, 
and  a  more  important  loss  was  that  of  all  his  cartridges 
and  four  pounds  of  "double  battle  Sussex  powder" 
which  the  commander  had  brought  for  his  own  use. 
Happily  the  kegs  of  powder  and  some  bottles  of  pow- 
der escaped,  and  but  for  this  fortunate  circumstance, 
the  party  would  have  had  to  return,  for  they  could  not 
subsist  without  ammunition.  Fortunately  two  Menom- 
inee Indians,  one  of  whom  they  had  seen  at  the  post, 
came  up  each  with  a  deer,  and  relieved  their  present 
need.  Pike  was  now  obliged  to  remain  in  camp  and 
build  a  couple  of  sleds,  and  meanwhile  was  successful 
in  overtaking  a  buffalo,  and  Bradley  and  the  interpre- 
ter Rousseau  killed  a  deer.  Having  more  meat  than 
they  needed  Pike  had  a  cache  made  by  digging  a  hole 
four  feet  deep  and  three  feet  wide  and  six  feet  long 
into  which  they  put  a  barrel  of  pork,  and  a  barrel  of 
flour  each  wrapped  in  deerskins  to  keep  them  dry. 
When  the  hole  was  covered  with  dirt  they  built  their 
fire  above  and  made  it  further  secure. 

After  four  days  of  hard  marching  the  party  reached 
the  Riviere  de  Corbeau,  as  Pike  calls  Crow  Wing  River, 
which  was  the  principal  means  of  communication  be- 


62  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

tween  the  Mississippi  and  the  Red  River  of  the  North. 
Here  Pike  writes: 

^^Dec.  23J.  Never  did  I  undergo  more  fatigue,  per- 
forming the  duties  of  hunter,  spy,  guide,  commanding 
officer,  etc.,  sometimes  in  front,  sometimes  in  the  rear, 
frequently  in  advance  of  my  party  10  or  15  miles.  At 
night  I  was  scarcely  able  to  make  my  notes  intelligible. 
Killed  two  raccoons.  From  our  sleds  breaking  down, 
and  having  to  make  so  many  portages  on  the  road, 
made  but  four  miles." 

Troubles  did  not  cease.  Travelling  now  on  the 
prairie  and  now  on  the  frozen  river  he  notes:  "Broke 
four  sleds,  broke  into  the  river  four  times,  and  had  four 
carrying  places  since  we  left."  For  a  week  they  made 
slow  progress  through  this  dreary  lake  region.  Pike 
having  ceased  to  follow  the  course  of  the  Mississippi 
River. 

"Dec.  3 1  J-/.  Passed  Pine  river  about  eleven  o'clock. 
At  its  mouth  there  was  a  Chipeway's  encampment  of 
15  lodges;  this  had  been  occupied  in  the  summer,  but 
was  now  vacant.  By  the  significations  of  their  marks 
we  understood  that  they  had  marched  a  party  of  50 
warriors  against  the  Sioux,  and  had  killed  four  men 
and  four  women,  which  were  represented  by  images 
carved  out  of  pine  or  cedar.  The  four  men  were  painted 
and  put  in  the  ground  to  the  middle,  leaving  above 
ground  those  parts  which  are  generally  concealed; 
by  their  sides  were  four  painted  poles,  sharpened  at  the 
end  to  represent  the  women.  Near  this  were  poles  with 
deerskins,   plumes,   silk   handkerchiefs,   etc.;    also,   a 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  63 

circular  hoop  of  cedar  with  something  attached,  repre- 
senting a  scalp.  Near  each  lodge  they  had  holes  dug  in 
the  ground,  and  boughs  ready  to  cover  them,  as  a  re- 
treat for  their  women  and  children  if  attacked  by  the 
Sioux. 

*^  Wednesday,  Jan,  1st,  1806.  Passed  on  the  bank 
of  the  river  six  very  elegant  bark  canoes,  which  had  been 
laid  up  by  the  Chipeways;  also,  a  camp  which  we 
conceived  to  have  been  evacuated  about  ten  days.  My 
interpreter  came  after  me  in  a  great  hurry,  conjuring 
me  not  to  go  so  far  ahead,  and  assured  me  that  the 
Chipeways,  encountering  me  without  an  interpreter, 
party,  or  flag,  would  certainly  kill  me.  Notwithstand- 
ing this  I  went  on  several  miles  further  than  usual,  in 
order  to  make  any  discoveries  that  were  to  be  made; 
conceiving  the  savages  not  so  barbarous  or  ferocious  as 
to  fire  on  two  men  (I  had  one  with  me)  who  were  ap- 
parently coming  into  their  country,  trusting  to  their 
generosity;  and  knowing  that  if  we  met  only  two  or 
three  we  were  equal  to  them,  I  having  my  gun  and  pis- 
tols and  he  his  buck-shot.  Made  some  extra  presents 
for  New  Year's  Day. 

''Jan.  2d.  Fine  warm  day.  Discovered  fresh  sign 
of  Indians.  Just  as  we  were  encamping  at  night,  my 
sentinel  informed  me  that  some  Indians  were  coming 
full  speed  upon  our  trail  or  track.  I  ordered  my  men 
to  stand  by  their  guns  carefully.  They  were  immedi- 
ately at  my  camp,  and  saluted  the  flag  by  a  discharge  of 
three  pieces,  when  four  Chipeways,  one  Englishman, 
and  a  Frenchman  of  the  N.  W.  Company,  presented 


64  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

themselves.  They  informed  us  that  some  women,  hav- 
ing discovered  our  trail,  gave  the  alarm,  and  not  know- 
ing but  it  was  their  enemies,  they  had  departed  to  make 
a  discovery.  They  had  heard  of  us  and  revered  our 
flag.  Mr.  Grant,  the  Englishman,  had  only  arrived 
the  day  before  from  Lake  De  Sable  from  which  he  had 
marched  in  one  day  and  a  half.  I  presented  the  In- 
dians with  half  a  deer,  which  they  received  thankfully, 
for  they  had  discovered  our  fires  some  days  ago,  and 
believing  it  to  be  the  Sioux,  they  dared  not  leave  their 
camp.  They  returned,  but  Mr.  Grant  remained  all 
night. 

''Jan.  3^.  My  party  marched  early,  but  I  returned 
with  Mr.  Grant  to  his  establishment  on  [Lower]  Red 
Cedar  Lake,  having  one  corporal  with  me.  When  we 
came  in  sight  of  his  house  I  observed  the  flag  of  Great 
Britain  flying.  I  felt  indignant,  and  cannot  say  what 
my  feelings  would  have  excited  me  to  do,  had  he  not 
informed  me  that  it  belonged  to  the  Indians.  This 
was  not  much  more  agreeable  to  me.  After  explaining 
to  a  Chipeway  warrior  called  Curly  Head  the  object  of 
my  voyage,  and  receiving  his  answer  that  he  would 
remain  tranquil,  we  ate  a  good  breakfast  for  the  coun- 
try, departed,  and  overtook  my  sleds  just  at  dusk. 
Killed  one  porcupine.     Distance  i6  miles." 

Curly  Head,  the  Chippewa  warrior,  belonged  to  a 
family  that  for  many  years  ruled  over  the  Chippewa 
tribes.  It  was  written  of  him:  "He  was  a  father  to  his 
people;  they  looked  on  him  as  children  do  to  a  parent; 
and  his  lightest  wish  was  immediately  performed.     His 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  65 

lodge  was  ever  full  of  meat,  to  which  the  hungry  and 
destitute  were  ever  welcome.  The  traders  vied  with  one 
another  who  should  treat  him  best,  and  the  presents 
he  received  were  always  distributed  to  his  people  with- 
out reserve." 

''Jan.  ^th.  We  made  28  points  in  the  river;  broad, 
good  bottom,  and  of  the  usual  timber.  In  the  night  I 
was  awakened  by  the  cry  of  the  sentinel,  calling  re- 
peatedly to  the  men;  at  length  he  vociferated,  *G — d 
d — n  your  souls,  will  you  let  the  Heutenant  be  burned 
to  death  ?'  This  immediately  aroused  me.  At  first  I 
seized  my  arms,  but  looking  round  I  saw  my  tent  in 
flames.  The  men  flew  to  my  assistance  and  we  tore 
them  down,  but  not  until  they  were  entirely  ruined. 
This,  with  the  loss  of  my  leggins,  mockinsons,  and 
socks  which  I  had  hung  up  to  dry,  was  no  trivial  mis- 
fortune, in  such  a  country  and  on  such  a  voyage.  But 
I  had  reason  to  thank  God  that  the  powder,  three  small 
casks,  which  I  had  in  my  tent,  did  not  take  fire;  if  it 
had  I  must  certainly  have  lost  my  life. 

''Sunday,  Jan,  ^th.  Mr.  Grant  promised  to  over- 
take me  yesterday,  but  has  not  arrived.  I  conceived  it 
would  be  necessary  to  attend  his  motions  with  careful 
observation.     Distance  27  miles. 

"Jan.  6th.  Bradley  and  myself  walked  up  31  points, 
in  hopes  to  discover  Lake  De  Sable,  but  finding  a  near 
cut  of  20  yards  for  10  miles,  and  being  fearful  the  sleds 
would  miss  it,  we  returned  23  points  before  we  found 
our  camp.  They  had  made  only  eight  points.  Met 
two  Frenchmen  of  the  N.  W.  Company  with  about 


66  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

1 80  pounds  on  each  of  their  backs,  with  rackets  on; 
they  informed  me  that  Mr.  Grant  had  gone  on  with  the 
Frenchman.  Snow  fell  all  day  and  was  three  feet 
deep.     Spent  a  miserable  night. 

"Jan.  yth.  Made  but  ii  miles,  and  then  were 
obliged  to  send  ahead  and  make  fires  every  three  miles; 
notwithstanding  which  the  cold  was  so  intense  that 
some  of  the  men  had  their  noses,  others  their  fingers, 
and  others  their  toes  frozen,  before  they  felt  the  cold 
sensibly. 

''Jan.  Sth.  Conceiving  I  was  no  great  distance  from 
Sandy  Lake,  I  left  my  sleds,  and  with  Corporal  Bradley 
took  my  departure  for  that  place,  intending  to  send 
him  back  the  same  evening.  We  walked  on  very 
briskly  until  near  night,  when  we  met  a  young  Indian, 
one  of  those  who  had  visited  my  camp  near  Red  Cedar 
Lake.  I  endeavored  to  explain  to  him  that  it  was  my 
wish  to  go  to  Lake  De  Sable  that  evening.  He  returned 
with  me  until  we  came  to  a  trail  that  led  across  the 
woods;  this  he  signified  was  a  near  course.  I  went 
this  course  with  him,  and  shortly  afterward  found  my- 
self at  a  Chippewa  encampment,  to  which  I  believe  the 
friendly  savage  had  enticed  me  with  the  belief  I  would 
tarry  all  night,  knowing  that  it  was  too  late  for  us  to 
make  the  lake  in  good  season.  But  upon  our  refusing 
to  stay,  he  put  us  in  the  right  road.  We  arrived  at  the 
place  where  the  track  left  the  Mississippi,  at  dusk, 
when  we  traversed  about  two  leagues  of  a  wilderness, 
without  any  very  great  difficulty,  and  at  length  struck 
the  shore  of  Lake  De  Sable,  over  a  branch  of  which 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  67 

our  course  lay.  The  snow  having  covered  the  trail  made 
by  the  Frenchmen  who  had  passed  before  with  the 
rackets,  I  was  fearful  of  losing  ourselves  on  the  lake; 
the  consequence  of  which  can  only  be  conceived  by 
those  who  have  been  exposed  on  a  lake,  or  naked  plain, 
a  dreary  night  of  January,  in  latitude  47°  and  the  ther- 
mometer below  zero.  Thinking  that  we  could  observe 
the  bank  of  the  other  shore,  we  kept  a  straight  course, 
some  time  after  discovered  lights,  and  on  our  arrival 
were  not  a  little  surprised  to  find  a  large  stockade.  The 
gate  being  open,  we  entered,  and  proceeded  to  the 
quarters  of  Mr.  Grant,  where  we  were  treated  with  the 
utmost  hospitahty. 

''Jan.  gth.  Marched  the  corporal  early,  in  order 
that  our  men  should  receive  assurances  of  our  safety 
and  success.  He  carried  with  him  a  small  keg  of  spirits, 
a  present  from  Mr.  Grant.  The  establishment  of  this 
place  was  formed  12  years  since  by  the  N.  W.  Company, 
and  was  formerly  under  the  charge  of  a  Mr.  Charles 
Brusky.  It  has  attained  at  present  such  regularity  as 
to  permit  the  superintendent  to  live  tolerably  comfort- 
able. They  have  horses  procured  from  Red  river  of 
the  Indians;  raise  plenty  of  Irish  potatoes;  catch  pike, 
suckers,  pickerel,  and  white  fish  in  abundance.  They 
also  have  beaver,  deer,  and  moose;  but  the  provision 
they  chiefly  depend  on  is  wild  oats,  of  which  they  pur- 
chase great  quantities  from  the  Indians,  giving  at  the 
rate  of  about  ^1.50  per  bushel.  But  flour,  pork,  and 
salt  are  almost  interdicted  except  to  traders.  Flour 
sells  at  50  cts.;    salt,  $1,  pork,  80  cts.,  sugar,  50  cts.; 


68  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

coffee  and  tea,  ;?4.50  per  pound.     The  sugar  is  obtained 
from  the  Indians,  and  is  made  from  the  maple  tree." 

Marching  on  snow  shoes  Mr.  Grant  now  led  the  party 
back  to  the  Mississippi,  "in  order  to  mark  the  place  for 
my  boats  to  leave  the  river."  Pike  writes:  "It  was 
a  march  full  of  difficulty.  Mr.  Grant  himself  fell  into 
the  river  with  his  snow-shoes  and  was  extricated  with  dif- 
ficulty, and  a  tree  fell  on  one  of  the  men  and  hurt  him 
badly."  At  length  the  party  reached  the  trading-house 
of  the  North  Western  Company  on  Sandy  Lake  a  little 
before  dark,  where  everybody  was  made  comfortable, 
the  men  receiving  a  "fille,"  the  term  for  dram  in  that 
part  of  the  country.  Meanwhile  Pike  and  Mr.  Grant 
made  a  tour  of  the  lake,  and  the  men  sawed  timber 
for  sleds,  that  were  to  be  built  like  those  in  use  in  that 
part  of  the  country.  These,  which  Pike  calls  traineaux 
de  glace,  were  made  of  a  single  plank,  turned  up  at  one 
end  like  a  fiddle  head,  on  which  the  baggage  is  lashed 
in  bags  and  sacks.  The  Indians  who  had  never  met 
any  Americans  were  much  interested  in  the  party,  be- 
lieving that  owing  to  our  victories  over  the  English 
and  French  the  Americans  were  "white  Indians."  All 
hands  were  now  busy  making  ready  to  return  to  Leech 
Lake,  Pike  in  writing  his  letters  and  arranging  the 
baggage,  and  the  men  in  getting  ready  the  sleds.  Pike, 
however,  takes  time  to  note  that  at  the  post  he  had 
"roasted  beavers,  dressed  in  every  respect  as  pig  is 
usually  dressed  with  us,  and  boiled  moose's  head 
which  he  considers  as  good  as  beaver's  tail;  both  be- 
ing excellent." 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  69 


On  January  20th  the  party  started,  travelling  across 
country  in  a  snow-storm,  intending  to  follow  up  the 
Willow  River.  But  learning  from  Mr.  Grant,  who  had 
overtaken  them  that  the  water  had  risen  over  the  ice, 
Pike  sent  back  to  the  post  all  unnecessary  articles,  in- 
cluding, however,  his  ink  and  the  salt,  and  resumed  his 
march.  Mr.  Grant  went  with  them  for  three  days, 
nothing  delaying  them  but  the  fact  of  the  leader  hang- 
ing his  thermometer  on  a  tree  and  having  to  send  back 
one  of  his  men  for  it.  Pike  also  notes  that  Boley  having 
lost  the  "Sioux  pipe-stem,  which  I  carried  along  to 
make  peace  with  the  Chipeways  I  sent  him  back  for  it." 
Mr.  Grant  had  now  left  him  and  the  Indian  guide  he 
had  engaged  had  arrived.  Having  abandoned  the 
Willow  River  course.  Pike  made  a  detour  toward  the 
Northwest  and  was  soon  to  strike  the  Mississippi  again 
at  what  is  now  Grand  Rapids. 

''Sunday,  Jan.  26th.  I  left  my  party  in  order  to 
proceed  to  a  house  or  lodge  of  Mr.  Grant's  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi [opposite  Grand  Rapids],  where  he  was  to  tarry 
until  I  overtook  him.  Took  with  me  my  Indian,  Boley, 
and  some  trifling  provision;  the  Indian  and  myself 
marched  so  fast  that  we  left  Boley  on  the  route  about 
eight  miles  from  the  lodge.  Met  Mr.  Grant's  men  on 
their  return  to  Lake  De  Sable,  they  having  evacuated 
the  house  this  morning,  and  Mr.  Grant  having  marched 
for  Leech  Lake.  The  Indian  and  I  arrived  before  sun- 
down. Passed  the  night  very  uncomfortably,  having 
nothing  to  eat,  not  much  wood,  nor  any  blankets.  The 
Indian  slept  sound.     I  cursed  his  insensibility,  being 


70  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

obliged  to  content  myself  over  a  few  coals  all  night. 
Boley  did  not  arrive.  In  the  night  the  Indian  men- 
tioned something  about  his  son,  etc. 

*^ Monday,  Jan.  2Jth.  My  Indian  rose  early,  men- 
ded his  mockinsons,  then  expressed  by  signs  something 
about  his  son  and  the  Frenchman  we  met  yesterday. 
Conceiving  that  he  wished  to  send  some  message  to 
his  family,  I  suffered  him  to  depart.  After  his  depart- 
ure I  felt  the  curse  of  solitude,  although  he  truly  was  no 
company.  Boley  arrived  about  ten  o'clock.  He  said 
that  he  had  followed  us  until  some  time  in  the  night; 
when,  believing  that  he  could  not  overtake  us,  he 
stopped  and  made  a  fire;  but  having  no  ax  to  cut 
wood,  he  was  near  freezing.  He  met  the  Indians,  who 
made  him  signs  to  go  on.  I  spent  the  day  in  putting 
my  gun  in  order,  mending  my  mockinsons,  etc.  Pro- 
vided plenty  of  wood;  still  found  it  cold,  with  but  one 
blanket. 

"  I  can  only  account  for  the  gentlemen  of  the  N.  W. 
Company  contenting  themselves  in  this  wilderness  for 
lo,  15,  and  some  of  them  for  20  years,  by  the  attach- 
ment they  contract  for  the  Indian  women.  It  appears 
to  me  that  the  wealth  of  nations  would  not  induce  me  to 
remain  secluded  from  the  society  of  civilized  mankind, 
surrounded  by  a  savage  and  unproductive  wilderness, 
without  books  or  other  sources  of  intellectual  enjoy- 
ment, or  being  blessed  with  the  cultivated  and  feeling 
mind  of  a  civilized  fair. 

"Tuesday,  Jan.  2Sth.  My  party  joined  Boley  and 
myself  at  Grant's  house  to-day. 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  71 

*'  Wednesday,  Jan.  zgth.  Took  Miller  and  proceeded 
ahead  of  my  party;  reached  Pakagama  Falls  about 
one  o'clock;  proceeded  to  three  deserted  Chipeway 
lodges;  found  a  fine  parcel  of  firewood  spHt;  cut  down 
three  sap  pines  and  wove  the  branches  into  one  of  the 
lodges  to  protect  ourselves  from  the  storm;  had  a  tol- 
erable night. 

"  Thursday,  Jan.  ^oth.  Miller  and  myself  left  our 
encampment  at  a  good  hour;  unable  to  find  any  trail 
passed  through  one  of  the  most  dismal  swamps  I  ever 
saw,  and  struck  the  Mississippi  at  a  small  lake.  Ob- 
served Mr.  Grant's  tracks  going  through  it;  found  his 
mark  of  a  cut-ofF,  agreed  on  between  us;  took  it,  pro- 
ceeded very  well  until  we  came  to  a  small  lake  where 
the  trail  was  entirely  hid.  But  after  some  search  on 
the  other  side,  found  it;  when  we  passed  through  a  dis- 
mal swamp,  on  the  other  side  of  which  we  found  a  large 
lake  at  which  I  was  entirely  at  a  loss;  no  trail  was  to 
be  seen.  Struck  a  point  about  three  miles  where  we 
found  a  Chipeway  lodge  of  one  man,  his  wife,  and  five 
children,  and  one  old  woman.  They  received  us  with 
every  mark  that  distinguished  their  barbarity  such  as 
setting  their  dogs  on  ours,  trying  to  thrust  their  hands 
into  our  pockets,  &c.  But  we  convinced  them  that  we 
were  not  afraid,  and  let  them  know  we  were  Chewock- 
omen,  (Yankees),  when  they  used  us  more  civilly. 

"After  we  had  arranged  a  camp  as  well  as  possible,  I 
went  into  the  lodge;  they  presented  me  with  a  plate 
of  dried  meat.  I  ordered  Miller  to  bring  about  two 
gills  of  liquor,  which  made  us  all  good  friends.     The 


72  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

old  squaw  gave  me  more  meat,  and  offered  me  tobacco 
which,  not  using,  I  did  not  take.  I  gave  her  an  order 
upon  my  corporal  for  one  knife  and  half  a  carrot  of 
tobacco.  Heaven  clothes  the  lilies  and  feeds  the  ravens, 
and  the  same  almighty  Providence  protects  and  pre- 
serves these  creatures.  After  I  had  gone  out  to  my  fire, 
the  old  man  came  out  and  proposed  to  trade  beaver- 
skins  for  whisky;  meeting  with  a  refusal,  he  left  me; 
when  presently  the  old  woman  came  out  with  a  beaver- 
skin;  she  also  being  refused,  he  returned  to  the  charge 
with  a  quantity  of  dried  meat,  which,  or  any  other,  I 
should  have  been  glad  to  have  had.  I  gave  him  a  per- 
emptory refusal;  then  all  further  application  ceased. 
It  really  appeared  that  with  one  quart  of  whisky  I 
might  have  bought  all  they  possessed.  Night  remark- 
ably cold ;  was  obliged  to  sit  up  nearly  the  whole  of  it. 
Suffered  much  with  cold  and  from  want  of  sleep. 

*' Friday y  Jan.  31^^  Took  my  clothes  into  the  Ind- 
ian's lodge  to  dress,  and  was  received  very  coolly; 
but  by  giving  him  a  dram  unasked,  and  his  wife  a  little 
salt,  I  received  from  them  directions  for  my  route. 
Passed  the  lake  or  morass,  and  opened  on  meadows 
through  which  the  Mississippi  winds  its  course  of  nearly 
15  miles  long.  Took  a  straight  course  through  them 
to  the  head,  when  I  found  we  had  missed  the  river; 
made  a  turn  of  about  two  miles  and  regained  it.  Passed 
a  fork  which  I  supposed  to  be  Lake  Winipie,  making 
the  course  N.  W.  The  branch  we  took  was  Leech 
Lake  branch,  course  S.  W.  and  W.  Passed  a  very 
large  meadow  or  prairie,  course  W.     The  Mississippi 


St.  Paul  to  Leech  Lake  73 

is  only  15  yards  wide.     Encamped  about  one  mile  be- 
low the  traverses  of  the  meadow. 

"Saw  a  large  animal  which,  from  its  leaps,  I  supposed 
to  have  been  a  panther;  but,  if  so,  it  was  twice  as  large 
as  those  on  the  lower  Mississippi.  He  evinced  some 
disposition  to  approach.  I  lay  down  (Miller  being  in 
the  rear)  in  order  to  entice  him  to  come  near,  but  he 
would  not.  The  night  was  remarkably  cold.  Some 
spirits  which  I  had  in  a  small  keg  congealed  to  the  con- 
sistency of  honey." 


CHAPTER  III 

LEECH  LAKE  TO  ST.  LOUIS 

February  ist- April  30TH,  1806 

**  Saturday,  Feb.  1st.  Left  our  camp  pretty  early. 
Passed  a  continued  train  of  prairie,  and  arrived  at  Lake 
La  Sang  Sue  at  half-past  two  o'clock.  I  will  not  at- 
tempt to  describe  my  feelings  on  the  accomplishment 
of  my  voyage,  for  this  is  the  main  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  Lake  Winipie  branch  is  navigable  thence 
to  Red  Cedar  lake,  for  the  distance  of  five  leagues, 
which  is  the  extremity  of  the  navigation.  Crossed  the 
lake  12  miles  to  the  establishment  of  the  N.  W.  Com- 
pany, where  we  arrived  about  three  o'clock,  found  all 
the  gates  locked,  but  upon  knocking  were  admitted, 
and  received  with  marked  attention  and  hospitality  by 
Mr.  Hugh  M'GiUis.  Had  a  good  dish  of  coffee,  bis- 
cuit, butter,  and  cheese  for  supper." 

In  these  brief  words  which  show  something  of  the 
deeper  feelings  involved,  Pike  transcribes  what  he  be- 
lieved to  be  the  accomplishment  of  the  important  work 
he  had  set  out  to  do.  The  journey  had  been  full  of 
discouragements  and  of  perils.  These  he  had  met 
with  the  same  composure  and  soldier-like  simplicity 
that  marks  what  he  thought  to  be  its  final  triumph. 

74 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  75 

The  fact  that  he  was  mistaken  in  thinking  that  Leech 
Lake,  or  Lang  Sue  as  he  calls  it,  was  the  source  of  the 
Mississippi  does  not  lessen  our  admiration  for  the  char- 
acter of  the  soldier  and  the  explorer. 

Lake  Itasca,  that  we  now  know  is  the  true  source  of 
the  great  river,  is  twenty-five  miles,  as  the  eagle  flies, 
from  Leech  Lake,  and  this  Pike  never  saw.  Cass  Lake, 
which  Pike  calls  Red  Cedar,  and  Lake  Winnebigoshi, 
set  down  in  his  diary  as  Lake  Winipe,  were  not  the  end 
of  navigation,  as  he  thought;  but  this  he  did  not  dis- 
cover. With  the  hospitable  Hugh  M'Gillis,  Pike  re- 
mained some  time.  One  part  of  his  mission  was  to 
look  after  and  readjust  the  trading  business  that  had 
been  heretofore  conducted  under  the  British  flag.  Of 
these  traders  his  host  was  one  of  the  most  important, 
and  negotiations  not  favorable  to  his  nationality  and 
interests  had  to  be  conducted  under  his  roof.  Mean- 
while, worn  out  from  his  journey  and  with  legs  so 
swollen  he  could  not  wear  his  own  but  was  obliged  to 
borrow  clothes  from  his  host.  Pike  remained  indoors, 
reading  Volney's  "Egypt,"  and  in  making  himself  ac- 
quainted with  the  trading  situation  through  Dickinson's 
agent,  George  Anderson,  and  some  young  Indians  he 
invited  to  see  him. 

Six  days  later  the  rest  of  the  party  arrived,  and  Pike 
records  M'GiUis  asking  permission  to  hoist  the  British 
flag  in  comphment  to  the  American  flag,  which  they 
carried.  The  little  incident  had  its  bearing,  since  the 
hoisting  and  lowering  of  flags  was  still  a  diplomatic 
matter  in  the  disturbed  and  still  uncertain  condition  of 


76  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

that  part  of  the  country.  It  is  indeed  on  this  same 
day  that  Pike  wrote  a  letter  to  his  host  explaining  the 
views  of  the  new  Republic  on  the  whole  matter  of  the 
North  Western  Company  and  its  relation  to  the  Indians, 
and  acquainting  its  agents  with  the  demands  of  the 
United  States.  It  is  not  necessary  to  transcribe  the  letter 
entire,  but  it  concludes  with  the  following  demands: 

*' 1st.  That  you  will  make  representations  to  your 
agents  at  your  headquarters  on  Lake  Superior,  of  the 
quantity  of  goods  wanted  the  ensuing  spring  for  your 
establishments  in  the  territory  of  the  United  States, 
in  time  sufficient  (or  as  early  as  possible)  for  them  to 
enter  them  at  the  C.  H.  of  Michilimackinac,  and  ob- 
tain a  clearance  and  license  to  trade  in  due  form. 

**2«^.  That  you  will  give  immediate  instructions 
to  all  the  posts  in  said  territory  under  your  direction,  at 
no  time  and  under  no  pretense  whatever  to  hoist,  or 
suffer  to  be  hoisted,  the  English  flag.  If  you  conceive 
a  flag  necessary,  you  may  make  use  of  that  of  the  United 
States,  which  is  the  only  one  which  can  be  admitted. 

"3rJ.  That  you  will  on  no  further  occasion  present 
a  flag  or  medal  to  an  Indian,  or  hold  councils  with  any 
of  them  on  political  subjects,  or  others  foreign  from  that 
of  trade;  but  that,  on  being  applied  to  on  those  headsj 
you  will  refer  them  to  the  American  agents,  informing 
them  that  these  are  the  only  persons  authorized  to  hold 
councils  of  a  political  nature  with  them. 

"There  are  many  other  subjects,  such  as  the  dis- 
tribution of  liquor,  etc.,  which  would  be  too  lengthy 
to  be  treated  of  in  detail.     But  the  company  will  do 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  77 

well  to  furnish  themselves  with  our  laws  regulating 
commerce  with  the  savages,  and  regulate  themselves 
in  our  territories  accordingly. 

**I  embrace  this  opportunity  to  acknowledge  my- 
self and  command  under  singular  obligations  to  your- 
self and  agents  for  the  assistance  which  you  have  ren- 
dered us,  and  the  polite  treatment  with  which  we  have 
been  honored.  With  sentiments  of  high  respect  for  the 
estabhshment  and  yourself, 
"I  am.  Sir, 

"Your  obedient  servant, 

"Z.  M.  Pike. 
"Hugh  M'Gillis,  Esq.," 

Mr.  M.  Gillis  did  not  answer  this  letter  for  two  weeks. 
When  he  did  so  it  was  to  comply  in  handsome,  courte- 
ous fashion,  as  this  extract  from  his  letter  discloses: 

"We  were  not  conscious.  Sir,  of  the  error  I  acknowl- 
edge we  have  been  guilty  of  committing,  by  exhibiting 
to  view  on  your  territory  any  standard  of  Great  Britain. 
I  will  pledge  myself  to  your  government,  that  I  will 
use  my  utmost  endeavors,  as  soon  as  possible,  to  pre- 
vent the  future  display  of  the  British  flag,  or  the  pre- 
senting of  medals,  or  the  exhibiting  to  public  view  any 
other  mark  of  European  power,  throughout  the  extent 
of  territory  known  to  belong  to  the  dominion  of  the 
United  States.  The  custom  has  long  been  established 
and  we  innocently  and  inoffensively,  as  we  imagined, 
have  conformed  to  it  till  the  present  day. 

"Be  persuaded  that  on  no  consideration  shall  any 


78  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Indian  be  entertained  on  political  subjects,  or  on  any 
affairs  foreign  to  our  trade;  and  that  reference  shall 
be  made  to  the  American  agents,  should  any  applica- 
tion be  made  worthy  such  reference.  Be  also  assured 
that  we,  as  a  commercial  company,  must  find  it  ever 
our  interests  to  interfere  as  little  as  possible  with  affairs 
of  government  in  the  course  of  trade,  ignorant  as  we 
are  in  this  rude  and  distant  country  of  the  political  views 
of  nations. 

"We  are  convinced  that  the  inestimable  advantages 
arising  from  the  endeavors  of  your  government  to  es- 
tablish a  more  peaceful  course  of  trade  in  this  part  of 
the  territory  belonging  to  the  United  States  are  not 
acquired  through  the  mere  liberality  of  a  nation,  and  we 
are  ready  to  contribute  to  the  expense  necessarily  at- 
tending them.  We  are  not  averse  to  paying  the  com- 
mon duties  established  by  law,  and  will  ever  be  ready 
to  conform  ourselves  to  all  rules  and  regulations  of  trade 
that  may  be  established  according  to  common  justice." 

The  letter  concludes  with  the  following  personal 
appreciation: 

"It  is  to  you.  Sir,  we  feel  ourselves  most  greatly  in- 
debted, whose  claim  to  honor,  esteem,  and  respect  will 
ever  be  held  in  high  estimation  by  myself  and  asso- 
ciates. The  danger  and  hardships,  by  your  fortitude 
vanquished  and  by  your  perseverance  overcome,  are 
signal,  and  will  ever  be  preserved  in  the  annals  of  the 
N.  W.  Company." 

While  these  important  matters  were  engaging  the 
minds  of  these  two  men,  as  soon  as  Pike  was  able,  they 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  79 

were  off  on  hunting  excursions,  and  making  various 
expeditions  in  the  surrounding  country.  One  of  these 
was  to  Dickson's  agent  George  Anderson,  whose  trad- 
ing-house was  at  the  West  end  of  Leech  Lake.  Pike 
writes : 

"I  find  him  eHgibly  situated  as  to  trade,  but  his 
houses  bad.  I  rode  in  a  cariole  for  one  person,  con- 
structed in  the  following  manner:  Boards  planed 
smooth,  turned  up  in  front  about  two  feet,  coming  to  a 
point,  and  about  2 J  feet  wide  behind;  on  which  is  fixed 
a  box  covered  with  dressed  skins  painted;  this  box  is 
open  at  the  top,  but  covered  in  front  about  two-thirds 
of  the  length.  The  horse  is  fastened  between  the 
shafts.  The  rider  wraps  himself  up  in  a  buffalo-robe 
and  sits  flat  down,  having  a  cushion  to  lean  his  back 
against.  Thus  accoutered,  with  a  fur  cap,  etc.,  he  may 
bid  defiance  to  the  wind  and  weather.  Upon  our  re- 
turn we  found  that  some  of  the  Indians  had  already 
returned  from  the  hunting-camps;  also,  Monsieur 
Roussand,  the  gentleman  supposed  to  have  been  killed 
by  the  Indians.  His  arrival  with  Mr.  Grant  diffused  a 
general  satisfaction  through  the  fort. 

''Feb.  loth.  Hoisted  the  American  flag  in  the  fort. 
The  English  yacht  still  flying  at  the  top  of  the  flag- 
staff, I  directed  the  Indians  and  my  riflemen  to  shoot 
at  it.  They  soon  broke  the  iron  pin  to  which  it  was 
fastened,  and  brought  it  to  the  ground.  Reading 
Shenstone,  etc. 

'^Feb.  nth.  The  Sweet,  Buck,  Burnt,  etc.,  arrived, 
all  chiefs  of  note,  but  the  former  in  particular,  a  ven- 


8o  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

erable  old  man.  From  him  I  learned  that  the  Sioux 
occupied  this  ground  when,  to  use  his  own  phrase,  he  was 
a  made  man  and  began  to  hunt;  that  they  occupied  it 
the  year  that  the  French  missionaries  were  killed  at  the 
river  Pacagama.     The  Indians  flocked  in." 

One  of  the  objects  of  the  journey  was  to  make  peace 
between  those  hereditary  enemies,  the  Sioux  and  the 
Chippewas,  for  the  latter  refused  to  allow  the  traders 
to  deal  with  the  Sioux,  and  had  for  that  reason  mur- 
dered several  white  men.  Accordingly  Pike  and  Brad- 
ley, accompanied  by  M'Gillis  and  two  men  marched 
thirty  miles  through  the  swampy  country  to  Red  Cedar 
Lake,  where  the  Chippewas  were  in  camp.  In  this 
journey  he  passed  over  the  ground  previously  traversed 
by  the  noted  English  surveyor  and  explorer,  David 
Thompson,  in  1798,  who  just  failed,  as  Pike  was  now 
failing,  to  discover  the  true  source  of  the  Mississippi, 
although  it  was  so  very  near.  The  march  was  difficult, 
and  only  varied  by  one  of  the  men  losing  the  pipe  stem 
of  the  Indian,  Sweet,  which  he  was  taking  to  the  con- 
ference, and  which  "was  of  more  consequence  in  his 
affairs  with  the  Sioux  than  the  diploma  of  many  an 
ambassador."  The  diary  notes: 

"We  feasted  on  whitefish,  roasted  on  two  iron  grates 
fixed  horizontally  in  the  back  of  the  chimney;  the  en- 
trails left  in  the  fish. 

'Teh.  i^th.  Left  the  house  at  nine  o'clock.  It  be- 
comes me  here  to  do  justice  to  the  hospitality  of  our 
hosts;  one  Roy,  a  Canadian,  and  his  wife,  a  Chipeway 
squaw.     They  relinquished  for  our  use  the  only  thing 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  8i 

in  the  house  that  could  be  called  a  bed,  attended  us  like 
Servants,  nor  could  either  of  them  be  persuaded  to 
touch  a  mouthful  until  we  had  finished  our  repasts. 
We  made  the  garrison  about  sundown,  having  been 
drawn  at  least  lo  miles  in  a  sleigh  by  two  small  dogs. 
They  were  loaded  with  200  pounds,  and  went  so  fast  as 
to  render  it  difficult  for  the  men  with  snowshoes  to  keep 
up  with  them.  The  chiefs  asked  my  permission  to 
dance  the  calumet-dance,  which  I  granted. 

*'Feh.  i^th.  The  Flat  Mouth,  chief  of  the  Leech 
Lake  village,  and  many  other  Indians  arrived.  Re- 
ceived a  letter  from  Mr.  M'Gillis.  Noted  down  the 
heads  of  my  speech,  and  had  it  translated  into  French, 
in  order  that  the  interpreter  should  be  perfectly  master 
of  his  subject. 

'* Sunday,  Feb.  i6th.  Held  a  council  with  the  chiefs 
and  warriors  of  this  place  and  of  Red  Lake;  but  it  re- 
quired much  patience,  coolness,  and  management  to 
obtain  the  objects  I  desired,  viz.:  That  they  should 
make  peace  with  the  Sioux;  deliver  up  their  medals 
and  flags;  and  that  some  of  their  chiefs  should  follow  me 
to  St.  Louis.  As  a  proof  of  their  agreeing  to  the  peace, 
I  directed  that  they  should  smoke  out  of  the  Wabasha's 
pipe,  which  lay  on  the  table;  they  all  smoked,  from  the 
head  chief  to  the  youngest  soldier.  They  generally  de- 
livered up  their  flags  with  a  good  grace,  except  Flat 
Mouth,  who  said  he  had  left  both  at  his  camp,  three 
days'  march,  and  promised  to  deliver  them  up  to  Mr. 
M'Gillis  to  be  forwarded.  With  respect  to  their  returning 
with  me,  old  Sweet  thought  it  most  proper  to  return  to 


82  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

the  Indians  of  Red  Lake,  Red  river,  and  Rainy  Lake 
river.  Flat  Mouth  said  it  was  necessary  for  him  to 
restrain  his  young  warriors,  etc.  The  other  chiefs 
did  not  think  themselves  of  sufficient  consequence  to 
offer  any  reason  for  not  following  me  to  St.  Louis,  a 
journey  of  between  2,000  and  3,000  miles  through  a 
hostile  tribe  of  Indians.  I  then  told  them  that  I  was 
sorry  to  find  that  the  hearts  of  the  Sauteurs  of  this  quar- 
ter were  so  weak;  and  that  other  nations  would  say: 
*What,  were  there  no  soldiers  at  Leech,  Red,  and  Rainy 
Lakes  who  had  the  heart  to  carry  the  calumet  of  their 
chiefs  to  their  father?'  This  had  the  desired  effect. 
The  Buck  and  Beau,  two  of  their  most  celebrated 
warriors,  rose  and  offered  themselves  to  me  for  the 
embassy;  they  were  accepted  and  adopted  as  my  chil- 
dren, and  I  was  installed  as  their  father.  Their  ex- 
ample animated  the  others,  and  it  would  have  been  no 
difficult  matter  to  have  taken  a  company;  two,  however, 
were  sufficient.  I  determined  that  it  should  be  my 
care  never  to  make  them  regret  the  noble  confidence 
placed  in  me;  for  I  would  have  protected  their  lives 
with  my  own.  Beau  is  a  brother  to  Flat  Mouth. 
Gave  my  new  soldiers  a  dance  and  a  small  dram. 
They  attempted  to  get  more  liquor,  but  a  firm  and  per- 
emptory denial  convinced  them  I  was  not  to  be  trifled 
with. 

** Feb.  lyth.  The  chief  of  the  land  brought  in  his  flag 
and  delivered  it  up.  Made  arrangements  to  march  my 
party  the  next  day.  Instructed  Sweet  how  to  send 
parole  to  the  Indians  of  Red  river,  etc.     Put  my  men 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  83 

through  the  manual,  and  fired  three  blank  rounds,  all 
of  which  not  a  Httle  astonished  the  Indians.  I  was 
obliged  to  give  my  two  new  soldiers  each  a  blanket, 
pair  of  leggins,  scissors,  and  looking-glass." 

Notwithstanding  these  naive  details,  Pike  gives  in 
too  few  words  the  conduct  of  this  first  and  important 
meeting  of  the  authority  of  the  United  States  with  its 
new  wards  in  this  part  of  the  country.  As  he  notes,  he 
had  written  his  speech,  and  this  is  preserved  in  the 
War  Department.  From  it  we  may  get  a  glimpse  of 
the  dignity  and  importance  with  which  the  affair  was 
conducted.  Pike  began  by  explaining  to  the  Indians 
how  the  United  States  had  come  into  possession  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  and  why  the  great  father.  President 
Jefferson,  had  directed  his  great  war-chief.  General 
Wilkinson,  to  send  young  warriors  to  learn  about  his 
red  children.  One  may  imagine  that  this  young  war- 
rior felt  some  satisfaction  in  falling  so  handsomely  into 
the  oratorical  style  of  the  red  man,  as  the  following 
paragraphs  from  his  speech  show: 

"Brothers:  I  was  chosen  to  ascend  the  Mississippi, 
to  bear  to  his  red  children  the  words  of  their  father; 
and  the  Great  Spirit  has  opened  the  eyes  and  ears  of  all 
the  nations  that  I  have  passed  to  listen  to  my  words. 
The  Sauks  and  Reynards  are  planting  corn  and  raising 
cattle.  The  Winnebagos  continue  peaceable,  as  usual, 
and  even  the  Sioux  have  laid  by  the  hatchet  at  my  re- 
quest. Yes,  my  brothers,  the  Sioux,  who  have  so  long 
and  so  obstinately  waged  war  against  the  Chipeways, 
have  agreed  to  lay  by  the  hatchet,  smoke  the  calumet. 


84  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

and  become  again  your  brothers,  as  they  were  wont  to 
be. 

"Brothers:  I  have  therefore  come  to  fetch  some  of 
your  approved  chiefs  with  me  to  St.  Louis. 

"Brothers:  In  speaking  to  you  I  speak  to  brave 
warriors.  It  is  therefore  not  my  intention  to  deceive 
you.  Possibly  we  may  meet  with  some  bad  people 
who  may  wish  to  do  us  ill;  but  if  so,  we  will  die  together, 
certain  that  our  fathers,  the  Americans,  will  settle  with 
them  for  our  blood. 

"Brothers:  I  find  you  have  received  from  your 
traders  English  medals  and  flags.  These  you  must  de- 
liver up,  and  your  chiefs  who  go  with  me  shall  receive 
others  from  the  American  government,  in  their  room. 

"Brothers:  Traders  have  no  authority  to  make 
chiefs:  and  in  doing  this  they  have  done  what  is  not 
right.  It  is  only  great  chiefs,  appointed  by  your  fathers, 
who  have  that  authority.  But  at  the  same  time  you 
are  under  considerable  obligations  to  your  traders,  who 
come  over  large  waters,  high  mountains,  and  up  swift 
falls,  to  supply  you  with  clothing  for  your  women  and 
children,  and  ammunition  for  your  hunters,  to  feed 
you,  and  keep  you  from  perishing  with  cold. 

"  Brothers :  Your  chiefs  should  see  your  traders 
done  justice,  oblige  your  young  men  to  pay  their  credits, 
and  protect  them  from  insults;  and  your  traders,  on 
their  part,  must  not  cheat  the  Indians,  but  give  them 
the  value  of  their  skins. 

"Brothers:  Your  father  is  going  to  appoint  chiefs 
of  his  own  to  reside  among  you,  to  see  justice  done  to 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  85 

his  white  and  red  children,  who  will  punish  those  who 
deserve  punishment,  without  reference  to  the  color  of 
their  skin. 

** Brothers:  I  understand  that  one  of  your  young 
men  killed  an  American  at  Red  Lake  last  year,  but  the 
murderer  is  far  off.  Let  him  keep  so — send  him  where 
we  may  never  hear  of  him  more;  for  were  he  here  I 
would  be  obliged  to  demand  him  of  you,  and  make  my 
young  men  shoot  him.  My  hands  on  this  journey  are 
yet  clear  of  blood — may  the  Great  Spirit  keep  them 
so! 

"Brothers:  We  expect,  in  the  summer,  soldiers  to 
come  to  the  St.  Peters.  Your  chiefs  who  go  with  me 
may  either  come  up  with  them,  or  some  traders  who 
return  sooner.     They  may  make  their  selection. 

"Brothers:  Your  father  finds  that  the  rum  with 
which  you  are  supplied  by  the  traders  is  the  occasion 
of  quarrels,  murders,  and  bloodshed;  and  that,  instead 
of  buying  clothing  for  your  women  and  children,  you 
spend  your  skins  in  liquor,  etc.  He  has  determined  to 
direct  his  young  warriors  and  chiefs  to  prohibit  it,  and 
keep  it  from  among  you.  But  I  have  found  the  traders 
here  with  a  great  deal  of  rum  on  hand.  I  have  there- 
fore given  them  permission  to  sell  what  they  have, 
that  you  may  forget  it  by  degrees,  against  next  year, 
when  none  will  be  suffered  to  come  in  the  country." 

This  address  was  answered  by  three  Chippewa  chiefs 
for  their  tribes.  These  were  Sucre,  whose  pipe  stem 
we  read  one  of  the  men  had  almost  lost.  Chief  de  la 
Terre,  and  Flat  Mouth.     Sucre  was  the  first  to  speak: 


86  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"My  Father:  I  have  heard  and  understood  the 
words  of  our  great  father.  It  overjoys  me  to  see  you 
make  peace  among  us.  I  should  have  accompanied 
you  had  my  family  been  present,  and  would  have  gone 
to  see  my  father,  the  great  war-chief. 

**My  Father:  This  medal  I  hold  in  my  hands  I 
received  from  the  English  chiefs.  I  willingly  deliver 
it  to  you.  Wabasha's  calumet  with  which  I  am  pre- 
sented, I  receive  with  all  my  heart.  Be  assured  that 
I  will  use  my  best  endeavors  to  keep  my  young  men 
quiet.  There  is  my  calumet.  I  send  it  to  my  father 
the  great  war-chief.  What  does  it  signify  that  I  go  to  see 
him  .?     Will  not  my  pipe  answer  the  same  purpose  ? 

"My  Father:  You  will  meet  the  Sioux  on  your 
return.  You  will  make  them  smoke  my  pipe,  and  tell 
them  that  I  have  let  fall  the  hatchet. 

"My  Father:  Tell  the  Sioux  on  the  upper  part  of 
the  river  St.  Peters  to  mark  the  trees  with  the  figure  of 
a  calumet,  that  we  of  Red  Lake  who  may  go  that  way, 
should  see  them,  may  make  peace  with  them,  being 
assured  of  their  pacific  disposition  when  we  see  the 
calumet  marked  on  the  trees." 

Chief  de  la  Terre  had  but  little  to  say.  He  too  de- 
clined going  to  St.  Louis,  because  he  was  going  to 
Mackinaw  in  the  spring  to  meet  his  brothers,  the  Amer- 
icans. Flat  Mouth,  the  most  distinguished  of  the  Chip- 
pewa chiefs  was  the  third  speaker.  The  medal  to 
which  he  alludes,  he  subsequently  gave  up  as  he  prom- 
ised, and  was  afterward  awarded  another  medal  by  act 
of  Congress. 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  87 

"My  Father:  My  heart  beat  high  with  joy  when 
I  heard  that  you  had  arrived,  and  that  all  the  nations 
through  which  you  passed  had  received  and  made  peace 
among  them. 

"My  Father:  You  ask  me  to  accompany  you  to 
meet  our  father,  the  great  war-chief.  This  I  would 
willingly  do,  but  certain  considerations  prevent  me.  I 
have  sent  my  calumet  to  all  the  Sauteaux  who  hunt 
round  about,  to  assemble  to  form  a  war-party;  should 
I  be  absent,  they,  when  assembled,  might  strike  those 
with  whom  we  have  made  peace,  and  thus  kill  our 
brothers.  I  must  therefore  remain  here  to  prevent 
them  from  assembling,  as  I  fear  that  there  are  many  who 
have  begun  already  to  prepare  to  meet  me.  I  present 
you  with  the  medal  of  my  uncle  here  present.  He  re- 
ceived it  from  the  English  chiefs  as  a  recompense  for 
his  good  hunts.  As  for  me,  I  have  no  medal  here;  it 
is  at  my  tent,  and  I  will  cheerfully  deliver  it  up.  That 
medal  was  given  me  by  the  English  traders,  in  consider- 
ation of  something  that  I  had  done;  and  I  can  say  that 
three-fourths  of  those  here  present  belong  to  me. 

"My  Father:  I  promise  you,  and  you  may  confide 
in  my  word,  that  I  will  preserve  peace;  that  I  bury 
my  hatchet;  and  that  even  should  the  Sioux  come  and 
strike  me,  for  the  first  time,  I  would  not  take  up  my 
hatchet;  but  should  they  come  and  strike  me  a  second 
time,  I  would  dig  up  my  hatchet  and  revenge  myself." 

Pike's  mission  to  Red  Cedar  Lake  concluded  with 
this  conference.  While  making  arrangements  for  the 
return  trip  he  indicates  his  lofty  view  of  the  duty  of  a 


88  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

public  official  in  a  letter  to  Robert  Dickson.  Grant, 
Dickson's  agent,  was  proposing  to  start  on  a  trading 
trip  among  the  Folle  Avoins  with  goods  that  had  not 
yet  paid  duty.  This  Pike  forbids.  "What,"  he  writes, 
**Lt.  Pike  not  content  with  suffering  the  laws  to  slumber 
when  it  was  his  duty  to  have  them  executed,  has  now 
suffered  the  N.  W.  Company  to  violate  them,  and  in- 
jure the  citizen  of  the  United  States — certainly  he  must 
be  corrupt  to  admit  this.  This,  Sir,  would  be  the 
natural  conclusion  of  all  persons." 

With  Buck  and  Beau,  the  two  young  warriors,  who 
had  volunteered  to  accompany  Pike  back  to  St.  Louis, 
Pike  and  his  party  started  back  to  Lower  Red  Cedar 
Lake.  The  hospitable  M'Gillis  had  provided  not  only 
a  guide,  L'Rone,  but  all  the  party  with  snow-shoes, 
and  they  marched  off  amid  the  shouts  and  hurrahs  of 
the  Indians  who  had  remained  to  see  them  off.  It  was 
hard  marching  through  a  country  of  innumerable  lakes, 
and  at  length  the  trading-house  of  M'Gillis,  from 
whence  they  had  started,  was  reached.  Here  M'Gillis 
added  to  his  many  kindnesses  by  giving  his  own  car- 
riole and  dogs  to  Pike  for  his  journey.  Pike's  object 
was  to  strike  the  Mississippi  at  the  point  where  he  had 
left  his  canoes,  journeying  almost  directly  South. 

''Feb.  2ist.  Traveled  this  day  generally  S.  Passed 
but  two  lakes;  Sandy  Lake,  which  is  of  an  oblong 
form,  N.  and  S.  four  miles,  and  one  other  small  one. 
The  Indians,  at  the  instigation  of  Mr.  L'Rone,  applied 
for  him  to  accompany  us.  I  consented  that  he  should 
go  as  far  as  Red  Cedar  Lake.     I  then  wrote  a  note  to 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  89 

M^Gillis  upon  the  occasion.  After  Reale  had  departed 
with  it,  L'Rone  disclosed  to  me  that  it  was  his  wish  to 
desert  the  N.  W.  Company  entirely,  and  accompany 
me.  To  have  countenanced  for  a  moment  anything 
of  this  kind,  I  conceived  would  have  been  inconsistent 
with  every  principle  of  honor;  I  therefore  obliged  him 
to  return  immediately.  We  then  had  no  guide,  our 
Indians  not  knowing  the  road.  Our  course  was  through- 
woods  and  bad  brush,  15  miles. 

''Sunday,  Feb.  23^.  My  two  Indians,  Boley,  and 
myself,  with  my  sleigh  and  dogs,  left  the  party  under  an 
idea  that  we  should  make  Red  Cedar  lake.  We 
marched  hard  all  day,  without  arriving  at  the  Missis- 
sippi. Our  course  was  nearly  due  east  until  near  night, 
when  we  changed  more  south.  Took  no  provision  or 
bedding.  My  Indians  killed  15  partridges,  some  nearly 
black,  with  a  red  mark  over  their  eyes,  called  the  savan- 
na partridge.  Overtaken  about  noon  by  two  of  Mr. 
Anderson's  men,  named  Brurie  and  [Blank],  Mr.  An- 
derson himself  not  being  able  to  come. 

''Feb.  2\th.  We  started  early,  and  after  passing  over 
one  of  the  worst  roads  in  the  world,  found  ourselves  on 
a  lake  about  three  o'clock;  took  its  outlet  and  struck 
the  Mississippi  about  one  mile  below  the  canoes  men- 
tioned on  Jan.  1st,  by  which  I  knew  where  we  were. 
Ascended  the  Mississippi  about  four  miles,  and  en- 
camped on  the  west  side.  Our  general  course  this  day 
was  nearly  S.,  when  it  should  have  been  S.  E.  My 
young  warriors  were  still  in  good  heart,  singing  and 
showing  every  wish  to  keep  me  so.     The  pressure  of 


90  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

my  racket  strings  brought  the  blood  through  my  socks 
and  mockinsons,  from  which  the  pain  may  be  im- 
agined." 

The  party  arrived  at  Lower  Red  Cedar  Lake  on 
February  25th  and  there  found  Dickson's  agent,  Grant, 
whom  Pike  regarded  highly  and  a  Chippewa  chief,  De 
Breche,  or  Broken  Tooth  of  whom  Pike  writes:  "Is 
reputed  to  be  a  man  of  better  information  than  any  of 
the  Sauteurs."  A  piece  of  intelligence  that  the  chief 
confided  to  him  was  that  a  string  of  wampum  had  been 
sent  among  the  Chippewas  by,  he  thought,  the  British 
commanding  officer  at  St.  Joseph.  This  he  seemed  to 
think  important,  but  its  signification  he  does  not  indi- 
cate. De  Breche  agreed  to  go  to  Sandy  Lake  and 
meet  Pike  again  at  his  own  post  the  middle  of  March 
bringing  with  him  his  British  flag  and  medals,  and 
Buck  and  Beau  remained  behind  to  accompany  him, 
as  they  said.  Meanwhile,  visited  by  chief  White  Fisher, 
and  other  Indians,  Pike  remained  at  Lower  Red  Cedar 
Lake  until  the  first  of  March,  when  all  his  party  had 
arrived,  and  they  started  back  for  the  post,  where  on 
ascending  they  had  left  Kennerman,  as  Sergeant  in 
command.  As  nearly  as  possible  Pike  struck  his  old 
camps  and  notes  sending  Bradley  ahead  to  thaw  out 
the  ground  and  get  the  barrel  of  flour  he  had  cached 
coming  up. 

''March  '^rd.  Marched  early;  passed  our  Christ- 
mas encampment  at  sunrise.  I  was  ahead  of  my  party 
in  my  carriole.  Soon  afterward  I  observed  a  smoke 
on  the  W.  shore.     I  halloed  and  some  Indians  ap- 


< 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  91 

peared  on  the  bank.  I  waited  until  the  interpreter  came 
up;  we  then  went  into  camp.  They  proved  to  be  a 
party  of  Chipeways,  who  had  left  the  encampment  the 
same  day  we  had  left  it.  They  presented  me  with  some 
meat,  which  I  gave  my  sleigh  dogs.  They  then  left 
their  camp  and  accompanied  us  down  the  river.  We 
passed  our  encampment  of  Dec.  24th  at  nine  o'clock, 
of  the  23  d  at  ten  o'clock,  and  of  the  22d  at  eleven  o'clock; 
here  the  Indians  crossed  over  to  the  W.  shore;  arrived 
at  the  encampment  of  Dec.  21st  at  twelve  o'clock, 
where  we  had  a  barrel  of  flour. 

*T  here  found  Corporal  Meek  and  another  man  from 
the  post  from  whom  I  heard  that  the  men  were  all  well; 
they  confirmed  the  account  of  a  Sioux  having  fired  on 
a  sentinel;  and  added  that  the  sentinel  had  first  made 
him  drunk  and  then  turned  him  out  of  the  tent;  upon 
which  he  fired  on  the  sentinel  and  ran  off,  but  promised 
to  deliver  himself  up  in  the  spring.  The  corporal  in- 
formed me  that  the  sergeant  had  used  all  the  elegant 
hams  and  saddles  of  venison  which  I  had  preserved  to 
present  to  the  commander-in-chief  and  other  friends; 
that  he  had  made  away  with  all  the  whisky,  including 
a  keg  I  had  for  my  own  use,  having  publicly  sold  it  to 
the  men,  and  a  barrel  of  pork;  that  he  had  broken  open 
my  trunk  and  sold  some  things  out  of  it,  traded  with 
the  Indians,  gave  them  Hquor,  etc.;  and  this,  too,  con- 
trary to  my  most  pointed  and  particular  directions. 
Thus,  after  I  had  used  in  going  up  the  river  with  my 
party  the  strictest  economy,  living  upon  two  pounds  of 
frozen  venison  a  day,  in  order  that  we  might  have 


92  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

provision  to  carry  us  down  in  the  spring,  this  fellow 
was  squandering  the  flour,  pork,  and  liquor  during 
the  winter,  while  we  were  starving  with  hunger  and 
cold.  I  had  saved  all  our  corn,  bacon,  and  the  meat 
of  six  deer,  and  left  it  at  Sandy  Lake,  with  some  tents, 
my  mess-boxes,  salt,  tobacco,  etc.,  all  of  which  we  were 
obliged  to  sacrifice  by  not  returning  the  same  route  we 
went;  we  had  consoled  ourselves  at  this  loss  by  the 
flattering  idea  that  we  should  find  at  our  little  post  a 
handsome  stock  preserved — how  mortifying  the  disap- 
pointment! 

"We  raised  our  barrel  of  flour  and  came  down  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Httle  river,  on  the  E.,  which  we  had  passed 
on  Dec.  21st.     The  ice  covered  with  water. 

''Mar.  4.th.  Proceeded  early.  Passed  our  encamp- 
ment of  Dec.  20th  at  sunrise.  Arrived  at  that  of  the 
19th  at  nine  o'clock;  here  we  buried  two  barrels. 
Made  a  large  fire  to  thaw  the  ground.  We  went  on 
the  prairie  and  found  Sparks,  one  of  my  hunters,  and 
brought  him  to  the  river  at  Pine  Camp.  Passed  on 
opposite  our  camp  of  Dec.  13th,  and  encamped  where 
Sparks  and  some  men  had  an  old  hunting  camp,  and 
where  Fresaie,  a  Chipeway  chief  surrounded  them. 

''March,  yh.  Passed  all  the  encampments  between 
Pine  Creek  and  the  post,  at  which  we  arrived  about 
ten  o'clock.  I  sent  a  man  on  ahead  to  prevent  the 
salute  I  had  before  ordered  by  letter;  this  I  had  done 
from  the  idea  that  the  Sioux  chiefs  would  accompany 
me.  Found  all  well.  Confined  my  sergeant.  About 
one  o'clock  Mr.  Dickinson  arrived,  with  Killeur  Rouge, 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  93 

his  son,  and  two  other  Sioux  men,  with  two  women  who 
had  come  up  to  be  introduced  to  the  Sauteurs  they  ex- 
pected to  find  with  me.  Received  a  letter  from  Rein- 
ville. 

**Mar.  6th.  Thomas,  the  Fols  Avoin's  first  chief, 
arrived  with  ten  others  of  his  nation.  I  made  a  serious 
and  authoritative  expostulative  representation  to  him 
of  my  opinion  of  the  conduct  of  Shawonoe,  another  chief 
of  his  nation,  who  had  behaved  ill.  Had  also  a  con- 
ference with  Killeur  Rouge  and  his  people.  At  night 
wrote  to  Messrs.  Grant,  M'Gillis,  and  Anderson. 

*'Mar,  yth.  Held  conversations  with  the  Indians. 
Thomas,  the  Fols  Avoin  chief,  assured  me  that  he 
would  interest  himself  in  obliging  the  Puants  to  deliver 
up  the  men  who  had  recently  committed  murders  on 
the  Ouiscousing  and  Rock  rivers;  and  if  necessary  he 
would  make  it  a  national  quarrel,  on  the  side  of  the 
Americans.  This  Thomas  is  a  fine  fellow,  of  a  very 
masculine  figure,  noble  and  animated  delivery,  and 
appears  to  be  very  much  attached  to  the  Americans. 
The  Sioux  informed  me  that  they  would  wait  until  I  had 
determined  my  affairs  in  this  country,  and  then  bear  my 
words  to  the  St.  Peters. 

'*Mar.  Sth.  The  Fols  Avoin  chief  presented  me 
with  his  pipe  to  give  to  the  Sauteurs  on  their  arrival, 
with  assurances  of  their  safety  on  their  voyage,  and  his 
wish  for  them  to  descend  the  river.  The  Fils  de  Killeur 
Rouge  also  presented  me  with  his  pipe  to  present  to  the 
Sauteur  Indians  on  their  arrival,  to  make  them  smoke, 
and  assure  them  of  his  friendly  disposition,  and  that  he 


94  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

would  wait  to  see  them  at  Mr.  Dickson*s.  Thomas 
made  a  formal  complaint  against  a  Frenchman,  by 
name  Greignor,  who  resided  in  Green  bay,  and  who  he 
said  abused  the  Indians,  beat  them,  etc.,  without  prov- 
ocation. I  promised  to  write  to  the  commanding 
officer  or  Indian  agent  at  Michilimackinac  upon  the 
occasion.  The  Indians  with  Mr.  Dickson  all  took 
their  departure.  Hitched  my  dogs  in  the  sleigh,  which 
drew  one  of  the  Indian  women  down  the  ice,  to  the  no 
little  amusement  of  the  others.  Went  some  distance 
down  the  river  in  order  to  cut  a  mast.  Cut  a  pine 
mast  35  feet  long  for  my  big  boat  at  the  prairie.  This 
day  my  little  boy  broke  the  cock  of  my  gun;  few  trifling 
misfortunes  could  have  happened  which  I  should  have 
regretted  more,  as  the  wild  fowl  just  began  to  return  on 
the  approach  of  spring. 

** Sunday,  Mar,  gth.  I  examined  into  the  conduct 
of  my  sergeant,  and  found  that  he  was  guilty;  pun- 
ished him  by  reduction,  etc.  Visited  the  Fols  Avoin 
lodges  and  received  a  present  of  some  tallow.  One  of 
my  men  arrived  from  the  hunting-camp  with  two  deer. 

*'Mar.  loth.  Was  visited  by  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  and 
several  others  of  his  nation.  This  chief  was  an  ex- 
traordinary hunter;  to  instance  his  power,  he  killed  40 
elk  and  a  bear  in  one  day,  chasing  the  former  from 
dawn  to  eve.  We  were  all  busied  in  preparing  oars, 
guns,  mast,  etc.,  by  the  time  the  ice  broke  up,  which 
was  opening  fast. 

*'Mar,  I  ith.  In  a  long  conversation  with  a  Reynard, 
he  professed  not  to  believe  in  an  hereafter;   but  he  be- 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  95 

lieved  that  the  world  would  all  be  drowned  by  water 
at  some  future  period;  he  asked  how  it  was  to  be  re- 
peopled.  In  justice  to  his  nation,  however,  I  must 
observe  his  opinion  was  singular. 

"Mar.  I  ph.  Took  the  latitude  by  an  artificial  hori- 
zon. 

"March  i^th.  Received  two  deer  from  my  hunting 
camp.  Went  out  with  my  gun  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river.  Ascended  the  mountain  which  borders  the 
prairie.  On  the  point  of  it  I  found  a  stone  on  which 
the  Indians  had  sharpened  their  knives,  and  a  war- 
club  half  finished.  From  this  spot  you  may  extend 
the  eye  over  vast  prairies  with  scarcely  any  interruption 
but  clumps  of  trees,  which  at  a  distance  appeared  like 
mountains,  from  two  or  three  of  which  the  smoke  rising 
in  the  air  denoted  the  habitation  of  the  wandering  savage, 
and  too  often  marked  them  out  as  victims  to  their  ene- 
mies; from  whose  cruelty  I  have  had  the  pleasure  in  the 
course  of  the  winter  and  through  a  wilderness  of  im- 
mense extent  to  relieve  them,  as  peace  has  reigned 
through  my  mediation  from  the  prairie  Des  Cheins 
to  the  lower  Red  river.  If  a  subaltern  with  but  20 
men,  at  so  great  a  distance  from  the  seat  of  his  govern- 
ment, could  effect  so  important  a  change  in  the  minds 
of  those  savages,  what  might  not  a  great  and  independ- 
ent power  effect,  if,  instead  of  blowing  up  the  flames 
of  discord,  they  exerted  their  influence  in  the  sacred 
cause  of  peace .? 

"When  I  returned  to  the  fort,  I  found  the  Fols  Avoin 
chief,  who  intended  to  remain  all  night.     He  told  me 


96  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

that  near  the  conclusion  of  the  Revolutionary  War  his 
nation  began  to  look  upon  him  as  a  warrior;  that  they 
received  a  parole  from  Michilimackinac,  on  which  he 
was  dispatched  with  40  warriors;  and  that  on  his  ar- 
rival he  was  requested  to  lead  them  against  the  Ameri- 
cans. To  which  he  replied:  *We  have  considered 
you  and  the  Americans  as  one  people.  You  are  now 
at  war;  how  are  we  to  decide  who  has  justice  on  their 
side  ^  Besides,  you  white  people  are  like  the  leaves 
on  the  trees  for  numbers.  Should  I  march  with  my  40 
warriors  to  the  field  of  battle,  they  with  their  chief  would 
be  unnoticed  in  the  multitude,  and  would  be  swallowed 
up  as  the  big  water  embosoms  the  small  rivulets  which 
discharge  themselves  into  it.  No,  I  will  return  to  my 
nation,  where  my  countrymen  may  be  of  service  against 
our  red  enemies,  and  their  actions  renowned  in  the 
dance  of  our  nation.'  " 

Pike  expected  to  remain  at  the  post  some  time.  For 
one  thing  to  place  the  Sioux  and  the  Chippewas  on  a 
secure  peace  footing,  it  was  necessary  for  the  young 
warriors.  Buck  and  Beau,  to  accompany  him  down 
the  river,  and  they  had  not  yet  arrived.  He  comments 
on  the  fact  that  while  the  Sioux  were  candid  and  brave 
in  their  dealings,  the  Chippewas  were  suspicious  and 
consequently  treacherous  and  cowardly. 

While  he  waited  he  determined  to  visit  Thomas,  a 
Menominee  chief  who  was  in  camp  with  six  lodges 
about  twenty  miles  away.  It  was  snowing  hard,  but 
he  set  out  with  an  interpreter  and  Private  Roy,  camp- 
ing out  without  shelter   and   having  only   a   blanket 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  97 

apiece.  But  what  was  worse  luck,  after  wandering  up 
and  down  both  sides  of  the  Skunk  River  they  missed  the 
Indians  altogether.  Pike,  however,  was  not  discour- 
aged, and  the  next  entry  in  his  diary  says: 

*'Mar.  iSth,  We  marched,  determined  to  find  the 
lodges.  Met  an  Indian  whose  track  we  pursued  through 
almost  impenetrable  woods  for  about  2  miles  to  the 
camp.  Here  there  was  one  of  the  finest  sugar  camps  I 
almost  ever  saw,  the  whole  of  the  timber  being  sugar-tree. 
We  were  conducted  to  the  chief's  lodge,  who  received 
us  in  almost  patriarchal  style.  He  pulled  off  my  leg- 
gings and  mockinsons,  put  me  in  the  best  place  in  his 
lodge,  and  offered  me  dry  clothes.  He  then  presented 
us  with  syrup  of  the  maple  to  drink,  and  asked  whether 
I  preferred  eating  beaver,  swan,  elk,  or  deer;  upon  my 
giving  the  preference  to  the  first,  a  large  kettle  was  filled 
by  his  wife,  in  which  soup  was  made;  this  being  thick- 
ened with  flour,  we  had  what  I  then  thought  a  delicious 
repast.  After  we  had  refreshed  ourselves,  he  asked 
whether  we  would  visit  his  people  at  the  other  lodges, 
which  we  did,  and  in  each  were  presented  with  some- 
thing to  eat;  by  some,  with  a  bowl  of  sugar;  by  others, 
a  beaver's  tail,  etc.  After  making  this  tour  we  returned 
to  the  chief's  lodge,  and  found  a  berth  provided  for 
each  of  us,  of  good  soft  bearskins  nicely  spread,  and  on 
mine  there  was  a  large  feather  pillow. 

"  I  must  not  here  omit  to  mention  an  anecdote  which 
serves  to  characterize  more  particularly  their  manners. 
This  in  the  eyes  of  the  contracted  moralist  would  deform 
my  hospitable  host  into  a  monster  of  hbertinism;    but 


98  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

by  a  liberal  mind  would  be  considered  as  arising  from 
the  hearty  generosity  of  the  wild  savage.  In  the  course 
of  the  day,  observing  a  ring  on  one  of  my  fingers,  he 
inquired  if  it  was  gold;  he  was  told  it  was  the  gift  of 
one  with  whom  I  should  be  happy  to  be  at  that  time; 
he  seemed  to  think  seriously,  and  at  length  asked  the 
interpreter  if  his  father  would  not  Hke  an  Indian  wife. 
But  the  interpreter  assured  the  chief  that  all  great 
men  in  the  United  States  had  only  one  wife.  The  chief 
accepted  this  statement  but  remarked  that  he  liked  to 
have  as  many  as  he  pleased." 

The  next  morning  buying  two  baskets  of  sugar  from 
the  Indians,  and  feasting  on  a  swan  for  breakfast,  the 
party  started  back  to  the  post,  Pike  arriving  before 
sundown  and  sending  back  snow  shoes  for  private  Roy 
who  got  in  a  couple  of  hours  later.  The  hunting  camp 
Pike  set  up  while  building  the  post,  or  as  he  calls  it 
**my  fort,"  was  now  kept  busy  supplying  the  party  with 
fresh  meat,  while  the  leader  was  occupied  with  hospital- 
ities toward  the  neighboring  Indians. 

''Mar.  21  St.  Received  a  visit  from  the  Fols  Avoin 
chief  called  the  Shawonoe,  and  six  young  men.  I  in- 
formed him  without  reserve  of  the  news  I  had  heard 
of  him  at  Red  Cedar  Lake,  and  the  letter  I  wrote  to 
Mr.  Dickson.  He  denied  it  in  toto,  and  on  the  con- 
trary said  that  he  presented  his  flag  and  two  medals  to 
the  Chipeways,  as  an  inducement  for  them  to  descend  in 
the  spring;  and  gave  them  all  the  encouragement  in  his 
power.  His  party  was  much  astonished  at  the  language 
I  held  with  him.     But  from  his  firm  protestations  we 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  99 

finally  parted  friends.  He  informed  me  that  a  camp  of 
Sauteurs  were  on  the  river,  waiting  for  the  chiefs  to 
come  down;  from  which  it  appeared  they  were  still  ex- 
pected. At  night,  after  the  others  had  gone,  Thomas 
arrived  and  stayed  all  night.  We  agreed  upon  a 
hunting-party;  also  promised  to  pay  old  Shawonoe  a 
visit.  He  informed  me  that  he  set  out  the  other  day  to 
follow  me,  but  finding  the  storm  so  very  bad  returned 
to  his  wigwam.  The  thermometer  lower  than  it  has 
been  at  any  time  since  I  commenced  my  voyage. 

''Sun Jay y  Mar.  23^.  Agreeably  to  promise,  after 
breakfast  I  departed  with  Miller  and  my  interpreter  to 
pay  a  visit  to  the  old  chief  Shawonoe.  We  arrived  at 
his  camp  in  about  two  hours.  On  our  way  we  met 
the  Fols  Avoin  called  Chein  Blanche  who  had  visited 
my  post  previously  to  my  starting  up  the  river,  and  at 
whose  house  we  stopped  when  passing.  We  were  re- 
ceived by  old  Shawonoe  at  his  lodge  with  the  usual  Ind- 
ian hospitality,  but  very  different  from  the  polite  recep- 
tion given  us  by  Thomas. 

"Charlevoix  and  others  have  all  borne  testimony  to 
the  beauty  of  this  nation.  From  my  own  observation,  I 
had  sufficient  reason  to  confirm  their  information  as 
respected  the  males;  for  they  were  all  straight  and  well- 
made,  about  the  middle  size;  their  complexions  gener- 
ally fair  for  savages,  their  teeth  good,  their  eyes  large 
and  rather  languishing;  they  have  a  mild  but  indepen- 
dent expression  of  countenance,  that  charms  at  first  sight; 
in  short,  they  would  be  considered  anywhere  as  hand- 
some men.     But  their  account  of  the  women  I  never 


loo  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

before  believed  to  be  correct.  In  this  lodge  there  were 
five  very  handsome  women  when  we  arrived;  and 
about  sundown  a  married  pair  arrived,  whom  my  in- 
terpreter observed  were  the  handsomest  couple  he 
knew;  and  in  truth  they  were,  the  man  being  about  5 
feet  II  inches,  and  possessing  in  an  eminent  manner 
all  the  beauties  of  countenance,  which  distinguish  his 
nation.  His  companion  was  22  years  old,  having  dark 
brown  eyes,  jet  hair,  an  elegantly  proportioned  neck, 
and  her  figure  by  no  means  inclined  to  corpulency,  as 
they  generally  are  after  marriage.  He  appeared  to 
attach  himself  particularly  to  me,  and  informed  me 
his  wife  was  the  daughter  of  an  American;  but  his 
name  he  was  unacquainted  with.  I  had  brought  six 
biscuits  with  me,  which  I  presented  her  on  the  score  of 
her  being  my  country  woman,  and  she  was  called  *the 
Bostonian'  during  the  rest  of  my  stay. 

"I  found  them  extremely  hard  to  deal  with.  My  pro- 
vision being  only  venison,  I  wished  to  procure  some 
bear's  oil,  for  a  few  gallons  of  which  I  was  obliged  to  pay 
$1  per  gallon,  and  then  they  wished  to  mix  tallow  with 
the  oil.  They  also  demanded  ;?io  for  a  bear-skin,  the 
most  beautiful  I  ever  saw,  which  I  wanted  to  mount  a 
saddle.  Indeed  I  was  informed  that  traders  in  this 
country  sometimes  give  as  much  as  ^16  for  bear-skins, 
for  they  are  eminently  superior  to  anything  of  the  kind 
on  the  lower  Mississippi,  and  sell  in  Europe  for  double 
the  price.     In  the  evening  we  were  entertained  with  the 

calumet  and  the  dog  dance;   also  the  dance  of  the . 

Some  of  the  men  struck  the  post  and  told  some  of  their 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  loi 

war  exploits;  but  as  they  spoke  in  Menominee,  my  in- 
terpreter could  not  explain  it.  After  the  dance,  we 
had  the  feast  of  the  dead,  as  it  is  called,  at  which  each 
two  or  three  were  served  with  a  pan  or  vessel  full  of 
meat,  and  when  all  were  ready  there  was  a  prayer,  after 
which  the  eating  commenced.  Then  it  was  expected 
we  should  eat  up  our  portion  entirely,  being  careful  not 
to  drop  a  bone,  but  to  gather  all  up  and  put  them  in  the 
dish.  We  were  then  treated  with  soup.  After  the  eat- 
ing was  finished  the  chief  again  gave  an  exhortation, 
which  finished  the  ceremony.  I  am  told  they  then 
gather  up  all  the  fragments,  and  throw  them  in  the 
water,  lest  the  dogs  should  get  them.  Burning  them  is 
considered  as  sacrilegious.  In  this  lodge  were  collected 
at  one  time  41  persons,  great  and  small,  17  of  whom 
were  capable  of  bearing  arms,  besides  dogs  without 
number. 

"Mar.  2/\.th.  Rose  early  and  with  my  dog-sled  ar- 
rived at  the  fort  before  ten  o'clock.  In  the  afternoon 
Mr.  Grant  arrived  with  De  Breche  and  some  of  his 
young  men.  Saluted  him  with  14  rounds.  Found  my 
two  young  warriors  of  Leech  Lake  were  brave  enough 
to  return  to  their  homes.  Mr.  Grant  and  myself  sat  up 
late  talking. 

''Mar.  26th.  Thomas,  the  Fols  Avoin  chief,  arrived 
with  seven  of  his  men,  and  old  Shawonoe  and  six  of  his 
party.  I  had  them  all  to  feed  as  well  as  my  own  men. 
At  night  I  gave  them  leave  to  dance  in  the  garrison, 
which  they  did  until  ten  o'clock;  but  once  or  twice  told 
me  that  if  I  was  tired  of  them  the  dance  should  cease. 


102  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Old  Shawonoe  and  White  Dog  of  the  Fols  Avoins  told 
their  exploits,  which  we  could  not  understand;  but 
De  Breche  arose  and  said,  *I  once  killed  a  Sioux  and 
cut  off  his  head  with  such  a  spear  as  I  now  present  to 
this  Winebago' — at  the  same  time  presenting  one  to  a 
Winebago  present,  with  whom  the  Chipeways  were  at 
war;  this  was  considered  by  the  former  as  a  great 
honor.     My  hunters  went  out  but  killed  nothing. 

**Mar,  2Jih,  In  the  morning  the  Chipeway  chief 
made  a  speech  and  presented  his  peace  pipe  to  me  to 
bear  to  the  Sioux,  on  which  were  seven  strings  of  wam- 
pum, as  authority  from  seven  bands  of  the  Chipeways 
either  to  conclude  peace  or  to  make  war.  As  he  had 
chosen  the  former,  he  sent  his  pipe  to  the  Sioux  and 
requested  me  to  inform  them  that  he  and  his  people 
would  encamp  at  the  mouth  of  the  Riviere  de  corbeau 
the  ensuing  summer,  where  he  would  see  the  United 
States  flag  flying.  As  a  proof  of  his  pacific  disposition, 
the  Fols  Avoin  chief  then  spoke  and  said :  His  nation 
was  rendered  small  by  its  enemies;  only  a  remnant  was 
left,  but  they  could  boast  of  not  being  slaves;  for  that 
always  in  preference  to  their  women  and  children  being 
taken  they  themselves  killed  them.  But  that  their 
father  (as  they  called  me)  had  traveled  far,  and  had 
taken  much  pains  to  prevent  the  Sioux  and  Chipeways 
from  killing  one  another;  that  he  thought  no  one  could 
be  so  ungenerous  as  to  neglect  listening  to  the  words 
of  their  father;  that  he  would  report  to  the  Sioux  the 
pacific  disposition  of  the  Sauteurs,  and  hoped  the  peace 
would  be  firm  and  lasting.     I  then  in  a  few  words  in- 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  103 

formed  De  Breche  that  I  would  report  to  the  Sioux 
all  he  had  said,  and  that  I  should  ever  feel  pleased  and 
grateful  that  the  two  nations  had  laid  aside  the  toma- 
hawk at  my  request.  That  I  thanked  the  Fols  Avoin 
chief  for  his  good  wishes  and  parole  which  he  had  given 
the  Sauteurs.  After  all  this,  each  chief  was  furnished 
with  a  kettle  of  liquor,  to  drink  each  other's  health; 
and  De  Breche's  flag  which  I  presented  him  was  dis- 
played in  the  fort.  The  Fols  Avoin  then  departed,  at 
which  I  was  by  no  means  displeased;  for  they  had 
already  consumed  all  the  dry  meat  I  had  laid  aside 
for  my  voyage,  and  I  was  apprehensive  that  my  hunters 
would  not  be  able  to  lay  aside  another  supply. 

"Mar.  zSth.  Late  in  the  afternoon  Mr.  Grant  and 
the  Sauteurs  took  their  departure,  calculating  that  the 
Sioux  had  left  the  country.  Took  with  me  one  of  my 
soldiers  and  accompanied  them  to  the  Fols  Avoins 
lodge,  called  the  Shawonese,  where  we  ten  stayed  all 
night.  The  Fols  Avoins  and  Sauteurs  had  a  dance,  at 
which  I  left  them  and  went  to  sleep.  Feasted  on  elk, 
sugar,  and  syrup.  Previously  to  the  Indians'  depart- 
ing from  my  post,  I  demanded  the  chiefs  medal  and 
flags;  the  former  he  delivered,  but  with  a  bad  grace; 
the  latter  he  said  were  in  the  lands  when  I  left  Lake  De 
Sable  (as  instructed  by  the  traders  I  suppose),  and  that 
he  could  not  obtain  them.     It  thundered  and  lightened. 

"Mar.  29/A.  We  all  marched  in  the  morning,  Mr. 
Grant  and  party  for  Sandy  Lake,  and  I  for  my  hunt- 
ing-camp. I  gave  him  my  spaniel  dog.  He  joined  me 
again  after  we  had  separated  about  five  miles.     Arrived 


104  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

at  my  hunting-camp  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  was  informed  that  my  hunters  had  gone  to  bring 
in  a  deer;  they  arrived  with  it,  and  about  eleven  o'clock 
we  all  went  out  hunting.  Saw  but  few  deer,  out  of 
which  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  kill  two.  On  our  arrival 
at  camp  found  one  of  my  men  at  the  garrison  with  a 
letter  from  Mr.  Dickson.  The  soldier  informed  me  that 
one  Sioux  had  arrived  with  Mr.  Dickson's  men.  Al- 
though much  fatigued,  as  soon  as  I  had  eaten  some- 
.thing  I  took  one  of  my  men  and  departed  for  the  garri- 
son one  hour  before  sundown.  The  distance  was  21 
miles,  and  the  ice  very  dangerous,  being  rotten,  with 
water  over  it  nearly  a  foot  deep;  we  had  sticks  in  our 
hands,  and  in  many  places  ran  them  through  the  ice. 
It  thundered  and  lightened,  with  rain.  The  Sioux, 
not  finding  the  Sauteurs,  had  returned  immediately. 

'' Sunday,  Mar.  ^oth.  Wrote  to  Mr.  Dickson,  and 
dispatched  his  man.  Considerably  stiff  from  my  yes- 
terday's march.  Calked  our  boats,  as  the  ice  had 
every  appearance  of  breaking  up  in  a  few  days.  Thus 
while  on  the  wing  of  eager  expectation,  every  day  seemed 
an  age.     Received  2J  deer  from  our  hunting-camp. 

''Mar.  ;^ist.  Finished  calking  my  boats;  the  difficulty 
then  was  with  me,  what  I  should  get  to  pitch  the  seams. 
We  were  all  this  day  and  next  as  anxiously  watching  the 
ice  as  a  lover  would  the  arrival  of  the  priest  who  was  to 
unite  him  to  his  beloved.  Sometimes  it  moved  a  little, 
but  soon  closed.  An  Indian  and  his  woman  crossed  it 
when  the  poles  which  they  held  in  their  hands  were 
forced    through    in    many   places.     The    provision    to 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  105 

which  I  was  obHged  to  restrict  myself  and  men,  viz., 
two  pounds  of  fresh  venison  daily,  was  scarcely  suffi- 
cient to  keep  us  alive.  Though  I  had  not  an  extraor- 
dinary appetite,  yet  I  was  continually  hungry." 

The  waiting  time  was  now  spent  in  hunting.  A  half 
dozen  bears  came  in  from  the  hunting-camp,  and  Pike 
himself  with  a  couple  of  men  crossing  to  the  hills  on  the 
other  side  succeeded  in  killing  a  swan  and  a  goose, 
and  would  have  got  elk,  but  four  swimming  directly 
toward  them  were  turned  away  by  the  sleigh  dogs,  which 
jumped  into  the  water  after  them.  The  party  camped 
out  in  the  cold,  and  the  next  day  managed  to  get  a  buck, 
which  they  greatly  needed,  arriving  at  the  post  in  the 
afternoon. 

*' April  ^th.  In  the  morning  despatched  two  men 
down  the  river  in  order  to  see  if  it  was  open.  My 
hunters  arrived  from  the  camps.  Tallowed  my  boats 
with  our  candles  and  launched  them;  they  made  con- 
siderable water.  The  young  Shawonoe  arrived  in  my 
canoe  from  above,  with  about  1,000  lbs.  of  fur,  which  he 
deposited  in  the  fort.  The  men  returned  and  informed 
me  that  the  river  was  still  shut  about  10  miles  below. 

''Sunday,  Apr.  6th.  Sailed  my  peroqiie  with  Ser- 
geant Bradley  and  two  men,  to  descend  the  river  and 
see  if  it  was  yet  open  below.  They  returned  in  the 
afternoon  and  reported  all  clear.  I  had  previously  de- 
termined to  load  and  embark  the  next  day,  and  hoped 
to  find  it  free  by  the  time  I  arrived.  The  Fols  Avoin 
called  the  Shawonoe  arrived  and  encamped  near  the 
stockade.     He  informed  me  that  his  nation  had  de- 


io6  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

termined  to  send  his  son  down  in  his  place,  as  he  de- 
dined  the  voyage  to  St.  Louis.  All  hearts  and  hands 
were  employed  in  preparing  for  our  departure.  In  the 
evening  the  men  cleared  out  their  room,  danced  to  the 
violin,  and  sang  songs  until  eleven  o'clock,  so  rejoiced 
was  every  heart  at  leaving  this  savage  wilderness. 

*^ Apr.  Jth.  Loaded  our  boats  and  departed  at  40 
minutes  past  ten  o'clock.  At  one  o'clock  arrived  at 
Clear  river,  where  we  found  my  canoe  and  men.  Al- 
though I  had  partly  promised  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  to 
remain  one  night,  yet  time  was  too  precious,  and  we 
put  off;  passed  the  Grand  Rapids,  and  arrived  at  Mr. 
Dickson's  just  before  sun-down.  We  were  saluted 
with  three  rounds.  At  night  he  treated  all  my  men  with 
a  supper  and  a  dram.  Mr.  Dickson,  Mr.  Paulier  and 
myself  sat  up  until  four  o'clock  in  the  morning." 

Pike  remained  here  a  day,  writing  up  his  notes  on  the 
Sioux,  charting  the  St.  Peters  river,  and  settling  Indian 
affairs  with  his  host  and  Mr.  Paulier.  He  expected  to 
have  started  early  the  next  morning,  but  seeing  two 
drunken  Indians,  he  waited  to  find  out  how  they  got 
their  liquor.  He  discovered  it  had  been  sold  them  by 
a  trader.  La  Jeunesse,  whose  license  was  nothing  more 
than  a  general  liberty  to  trade.  Part  of  Pike's  mission 
was  to  investigate  the  conditions  of  the  Indian  trade, 
and  his  course  is  marked  by  the  temperance  lectures 
he  addressed  the  Indians,  and  his  determination  to 
hold  the  traders  in  check.  He  now  addressed  a  letter 
to  La  Jeunesse,  who  demanded  instructions  in  writing, 
threatening  prosecution  in  the  name  of  the  United  States 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  107 

if  he  persisted.  The  apparent  inconsistency  of  Pike's 
instructions  to  the  traders,  and  his  own  repeated  proffer 
of  drams  to  the  Indians  can  only  be  explained  by  the 
established  etiquette  of  the  country,  and  that  the  liquor 
was  two  thirds  water.  These  matters  being  adjusted 
the  party  started,  and  by  four  o'clock  had  reached  Mr. 
Paulier's  house  below,  to  whose  brother  he  had  a  letter, 
where  they  stopped  a  short  time. 

"After  having  left  this  place  some  time,  we  discovered 
a  bark  canoe  ahead;  we  gained  on  it  for  some  time, 
when  it  turned  a  point  about  300  yards  before,  and  on 
turning  it  also,  it  had  entirely  disappeared.  This  ex- 
cited my  curiosity;  I  stood  up  in  the  barge,  and  at  last 
discovered  it  turned  up  in  the  grass  of  the  prairie;  but 
after  we  had  passed  a  good  gunshot,  three  savages 
made  their  appearance  from  under  it,  launched  it  in 
the  river,  and  followed,  not  knowing  of  my  other  boats, 
which  had  just  turned  the  point  immediately  upon 
them.  They  then  came  on,  and  on  my  stopping  for 
the  night  at  a  vacant  trading-post,  they  also  stopped 
and  addressed  me.  'Saggo,  Commandant'  or  ^by  your 
servant.  Captain.'  I  directed  my  interpreter  to  inquire 
their  motives  for  conceahng  themselves.  They  replied 
that  their  canoe  leaked,  and  they  had  turned  her  up 
to  discharge  water.  This  I  did  not  believe;  and  as 
their  conduct  was  rather  equivocal  I  received  them 
rather  sternly;  I  gave  them,  however,  a  dram  and  a 
piece  of  bread.  Then  they  re-embarked  and  continued 
down  the  river.  Their  conduct  brought  to  mind  the 
visit  of  Fils  de  Pinchot  to  Mr.  Dickson  during  the 


io8  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

winter;  one  principal  cause  of  which  was  that  he  wished 
to  inform  me  that  seven  men,  whom  I  mentioned  to 
have  met  (Sept.  28th)  when  crossing  the  portage  of  St. 
Anthony,  had  since  declared  they  would  kill  him  for 
agreeing  to  the  peace  between  the  Sioux  and  Sauteurs; 
me  for  being  instrumental  in  preventing  them  from 
taking  revenge  for  relations  killed  by  the  Sauteurs  in 
August,  1805;  and  Thomas,  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  for  the 
support  he  seemed  to  give  me.  This  information  had 
not  made  the  impression  it  ought  to  have  made,  coming 
from  so  respectable  a  source,  as  the  first  chief  of  the 
village;  but  the  conduct  of  those  fellows  put  me  to 
the  consideration  of  it.  And  I  appeal  to  God  and  my 
country  if  self  preservation  would  not  have  justified  me 
in  cutting  those  scoundrels  to  pieces  wherever  I  found 
them.  This  my  men  would  have  done  if  so  ordered, 
amid  a  thousand  of  them,  and  I  should  hare  been  sup- 
ported by  the  chiefs  of  St.  Peters,  at  the  mouth  of  which 
were  800  warriors,  attending  my  arrival;  also  I  should 
have  been  justified  in  cutting  to  pieces  the  rascal  who 
fired  on  my  sentinel  last  winter.  I  dreaded  the  conse- 
quences of  the  meeting,  not  for  the  present,  but  for 
fear  the  impetuosity  of  my  conduct  might  not  have  been 
approved  by  the  government,  which  did  not  know  in- 
timately the  nature  of  those  savages.  This  day  for  the 
first  time  we  saw  the  commencement  of  vegetation ;  yet 
the  snow  was  a  foot  deep  in  some  places. 

''April  loth.  Sailed  at  half  past  five  o'clock;  about 
seven  passed  Rum  river,  and  at  eight  were  saluted  by 
six  or  seven  lodges  of  Fols  Avoins,  among  whom  was  a 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  109 

clerk  of  Mr.  Dixon's.  Those  people  had  wintered  on 
Rum  river,  and  were  waiting  for  their  chiefs  and  trad- 
ers to  descend  in  order  to  accompany  them  to  the 
Prairie  Des  Chiens.  Arrived  at  the  falls  of  St.  An- 
thony at  ten  o'clock.  Carried  over  all  our  lading  and 
the  canoe  to  the  lower  end  of  the  portage,  and  hauled 
our  boats  up  on  the  bank.  I  pitched  my  tents  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  encampment,  where  all  the  men  en- 
camped, except  the  guard,  whose  quarters  were  above. 
"The  appearance  of  the  falls  was  much  more  tre- 
mendous than  when  we  ascended;  the  increase  of 
water  occasioned  the  spray  to  rise  much  higher,  and 
the  mist  appeared  like  clouds.  How  diflFerent  my  sen- 
sations now  from  what  they  were  when  at  this  place  be- 
fore! At  that  time,  not  having  accomplished  more 
than  half  my  route,  winter  fast  approaching,  war  exist- 
ing between  the  most  savage  nations  in  the  course  of 
my  route,  my  provisions  greatly  diminished  and  but  a 
poor  prospect  of  an  additional  supply,  many  of  my  men 
sick  and  the  others  not  a  little  disheartened,  our  suc- 
cess in  this  arduous  undertaking  very  doubtful,  just 
upon  the  borders  of  the  haunts  of  civilized  men,  about 
to  launch  into  an  unknown  wilderness — for  ours  was 
the  first  canoe  that  had  ever  crossed  this  portage — 
were  reasons  sufficient  to  dispossess  my  breast  of  con- 
tentment and  ease.  But  now  we  have  accomplished 
every  wish,  peace  reigns  throughout  the  vast  extent,  we 
have  returned  thus  far  on  our  voyage  without  the  loss 
of  a  single  man,  and  hope  soon  to  be  blessed  with  the 
society  of  our  relations  and  friends. 


no  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"The  river  this  morning  was  covered  with  ice,  which 
continued  floating  all  day;  the  shores  were  still  barri- 
caded with  it. 

''Apr.  iith.  Although  it  snowed  very  hard,  we 
brought  over  both  boats  and  descended  the  river  to  the 
island  at  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peters.  I  sent  to  the 
chiefs  and  informed  them  I  had  something  to  commu- 
nicate to  them.  Fils  de  Pinchot  immediately  waited 
on  me,  and  informed  me  that  he  would  provide  a  place 
for  the  purpose.  About  sundown  I  was  sent  for  and 
introduced  into  the  council-house,  where  I  found  a  great 
many  chiefs  of  the  Sussitongs,  Gens  des  Feuilles,  and 
Gens  du  Lac.  The  Yanctongs  had  not  yet  come  down. 
They  were  all  waiting  for  my  arrival.  There  were 
about  100  lodges,  or  600  people;  we  were  saluted  on 
our  crossing  the  river  with  ball,  as  usual.  The  council- 
house  was  two  large  lodges,  capable  of  containing  300 
men.  In  the  upper  were  40  chiefs,  and  as  many  pipes 
set  against  the  poles,  alongside  of  which  I  had  the 
Sauteur's  pipes  arranged.  I  then  informed  them  in 
short  detail  of  my  transactions  with  the  Sauteurs;  but 
my  interpreters  were  not  capable  of  making  themselves 
understood.  I  was  therefore  obliged  to  omit  mention- 
ing every  particular  relative  to  the  rascal  who  fired  on 
my  sentinel,  and  to  the  scoundrel  who  broke  the  Fols 
Avoins'  canoes  and  threatened  my  life.  The  inter- 
preters informed  them  that  I  wanted  some  of  their 
principal  chiefs  to  go  to  St.  Louis;  and  that  those  who 
thought  proper  might  descend  to  the  prairie,  where  we 
would  give  them  more  explicit  information.     They  all 


CO 

O 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  iii 

smoked  out  of  the  Sauteurs  pipes,  excepting  three,  who 
were  painted  black,  and  who  were  some  of  them  who 
lost  their  relations  last  winter.  I  invited  Fils  de  Pin- 
chot  and  the  son  of  Killeur  Rouge  to  come  over  and  sup 
with  me;  when  Mr.  Dickson  and  myself  endeavored 
to  explain  what  I  intended  to  have  said  to  them,  could 
I  have  made  myself  understood;  that  at  the  prairie  we 
could  have  all  things  explained;  that  I  was  desirous  of 
making  a  better  report  of  them  than  Captain  Lewis 
could  do  from  their  treatment  of  him.  The  former 
of  those  savages  was  the  person  who  remained  around 
my  post  all  winter,  and  treated  my  men  so  well.  They 
endeavored  to  excuse  their  people  etc. 

''Apr.  12th.  Embarked  early.  Although  my  inter- 
preter had  been  there  frequently,  he  could  not  tell  me 
where  the  cave  spoken  of  by  Carver  could  be  found; 
we  carefully  sought  for  it,  but  in  vain.  At  the  Indian 
village  a  few  miles  above  St.  Peters  we  were  about  to 
pass  a  few  lodges,  but  on  receiving  a  very  particular 
invitation  to  come  on  shore,  we  landed  and  were  re- 
ceived in  the  lodge  kindly;  they  presented  us  with  sugar 
etc.  I  gave  the  proprietor  a  dram,  and  was  about  to 
depart  when  he  demanded  a  kettle  of  liquor;  on  being 
refused,  and  after  I  had  left  the  shore,  he  told  me  that 
he  did  not  like  the  arrangements  and  that  he  would  go 
to  war  this  summer.  I  directed  the  interpreter  to  tell 
him  that  if  I  returned  to  St.  Peters  with  the  troops  I 
would  settle  the  affair  with  him.  On  our  arrival  at  the 
St.  Croix  I  found  Petit  Corbeau  with  his  people  and 
Messrs.  Frazer  and  Wood.     We  had  a  conference  when 


112  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Petit  Corbeau  made  many  apologies  for  the  miscon- 
duct of  his  people;  he  represented  to  us  the  different 
manners  in  which  his  young  warriors  had  been  induc- 
ing him  to  go  to  war;  that  he  had  been  much  blamed 
for  dismissing  his  party  last  fall,  but  that  he  was  de- 
termined to  adhere  as  far  as  lay  in  his  power  to  our  in- 
structions; that  he  thought  it  most  prudent  to  remain 
here  and  restrain  the  warriors.  He  then  presented  me 
with  a  beaver  robe  and  pipe,  and  his  message  to  the 
general,  that  he  was  determined  to  preserve  peace, 
and  make  the  road  clear;  also,  a  remembrance  of  his 
promised  medal.  I  made  him  a  reply  calculated  to 
confirm  him  in  his  good  intentions,  and  assured  him 
that  he  should  not  be  the  less  remembered  by  his  fa- 
ther, although  not  present. 

"I  was  informed  that  notwithstanding  the  instruc- 
tion of  his  Hcense  and  my  particular  request,  Murdoch 
Cameron  had  taken  liquor  and  sold  it  to  the  Indians 
on  the  river  St.  Peters,  and  that  his  partner  below  had 
been  equally  imprudent.  I  pledged  myself  to  prosecute 
them  according  to  law;  for  they  have  been  the  occasion 
of  great  confusion  and  of  much  injury  to  the  other 
traders. 

"This  day  we  met  a  canoe  of  Mr.  Dickson's  loaded 
with  provision,  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Anderson, 
brother  of  Mr.  Anderson  at  Leech  Lake.  He  politely 
offered  me  any  provision  he  had  on  board,  for  which  Mr. 
Dickson  had  given  me  an  order;  but  not  now  being  in 
want  I  did  not  accept  of  any.  This  day,  for  the  first 
time,  I  observed  the  trees  beginning  to  bud,  and  indeed 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  113 

the  climate  seemed  to  have  changed  very  materially 
since  we  passed  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 

''Sunday,  Apr.  lyh.  We  embarked  after  break- 
fast. Messrs.  Frazer  and  Wood  accompanied  me. 
Wind  strong  ahead.  They  outrowed  us — the  first  boat 
or  canoe  we  met  with  on  the  voyage  able  to  do  it;  but 
then  they  were  double-manned  and  light.  Arrived  at 
the  band  of  Aile  Rouge  at  two  o'clock,  where  we  were 
saluted  as  usual. 

"We  had  a  council,  when  he  spoke  with  more  de- 
testation of  the  conduct  of  the  rascals  at  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Peters  than  any  man  I  had  yet  heard.  He  as- 
sured me,  speaking  of  the  fellow  who  had  fired  on  my 
sentinel  and  threatened  to  kill  me,  that  if  I  thought  it 
requisite,  he  should  be  killed;  but  as  there  were  many 
chiefs  above  with  whom  he  wished  to  speak,  he  hoped 
I  would  remain  one  day,  when  all  the  Sioux  would  be 
down,  and  I  might  have  the  command  of  a  thousand 
men  of  them;  that  I  would  probably  think  it  no  honor, 
but  that  the  British  used  to  flatter  them  they  were 
proud  of  having  them  for  soldiers.  I  replied  in  general 
terms,  and  assured  him  it  was  not  for  the  conduct  of 
two  or  three  rascals  that  I  meant  to  pass  over  all  the 
good  treatment  I  had  received  from  the  Sioux  nation; 
but  that  in  general  council  I  would  explain  myself. 
That  as  to  the  scoundrel  who  fired  at  my  sentinel,  had 
I  been  at  home  the  Sioux  nation  would  never  have  been 
troubled  with  him,  for  I  would  have  killed  him  on  the 
spot;  but  that  my  young  men  did  not  do  it,  apprehensive 
that  I  would  be  displeased.     I  then  gave  him  the  news  of 


114  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

the  Sauteurs,  etc. ;  that  as  to  remaining  one  day,  it  would 
be  of  no  service;  that  I  was  much  pressed  to  arrive  be- 
low, as  my  general  expected  me,  my  duty  called  me, 
and  the  state  of  my  provision  demanded  the  utmost 
expedition;  that  I  would  be  happy  to  oblige  him,  but 
my  men  must  eat.  He  replied  that.  Lake  Pepin  being 
yet  shut  with  ice,  if  I  went  on  and  encamped  on  the  ice 
it  would  not  get  me  provision;  that  he  would  send  out 
all  his  young  men  the  next  day;  and  that  if  the  other 
bands  did  not  arrive  he  would  depart  the  day  after 
with  me.  In  short,  after  much  talk,  I  agreed  to  remain 
one  day,  knowing  that  the  lake  was  closed  and  that  we 
could  proceed  only  nine  miles  if  we  went. 

"This  appeared  to  give  general  satisfaction.  I  was 
invited  to  different  feasts,  and  entertained  at  one  by  a 
person  whose  father  had  been  enacted  a  chief  by  the 
Spaniards.  At  this  feast  I  saw  a  man  called  by  the 
French  Roman  Nose,  and  by  the  Indians  Wind  that 
Walks,  who  was  formerly  the  second  chief  of  the  Sioux; 
but  being  the  cause  of  the  death  of  one  of  the  traders, 
seven  years  since,  he  voluntarily  relinquished  that  dig- 
nity, and  has  frequently  asked  to  be  given  up  to  the 
whites.  But  he  was  now  determined  to  go  to  St.  Louis 
and  deliver  himself  up,  where  he  said  they  might  put  him 
to  death.  His  long  repentance  and  the  great  confidence 
of  the  nation  in  him  would  perhaps  protect  him  from  a 
punishment  which  the  crime  merited.  But  as  the  crime 
was  committed  long  before  the  United  States  assumed 
authority,  and  as  no  law  of  theirs  could  affect  it,  unless  it 
were  ex  post  facto  and  had  a  retrospective  effect,  I  con- 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  115 

ceived  it  would  certainly  be  dispunishable  now.  I  did 
not,  however,  think  proper  to  so  inform  him.  I  here 
received  a  letter  from  Mr.  Rollett,  partner  of  Mr.  Cam- 
eron with  a  present  of  some  brandy,  coffee  and  sugar. 
I  hesitated  about  receiving  those  articles  from  the  part- 
ner of  the  man  I  intended  to  prosecute;  their  amount 
being  trifling,  I  accepted  of  them,  offering  to  pay.  I 
assured  him  that  the  prosecution  arose  from  a  sense  of 
duty,  and  not  from  personal  prejudice. 

"The  canoe  did  not  come  up,  in  consequence  of  the 
head  wind.  Sent  out  two  men  in  a  canoe  to  set  fishing- 
lines;  the  canoe  overset,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the 
timely  assistance  of  the  savages,  who  carried  them  into 
their  lodges,  undressed  them,  and  treated  them  with  the 
greatest  humanity  and  kindness,  they  must  inevitably 
have  perished.  At  this  place  I  was  informed  that  the 
rascal  spoken  of  as  having  threatened  my  life  had  act- 
ually cocked  his  gun  to  shoot  me  from  behind  the  hills, 
but  was  prevented  by  the  others. 

''Apr,  i^th.  Was  invited  to  a  feast  by  Roman  Nose. 
His  conversation  was  interesting,  and  shall  be  detailed 
hereafter.  The  other  Indians  had  not  yet  arrived. 
Messrs.  Wood,  Frazer,  and  myself  ascended  a  high  hill 
called  the  Barn,  from  which  we  had  a  view  of  Lake 
Pepin,  of  the  valley  through  which  the  Mississippi  by 
numerous  channels  wound  itself  to  the  St.  Croix,  the 
Cannon  river,  and  the  lofty  hills  on  each  side. 

''Apr.  i^th.  Arose  very  early  and  embarked  about 
sunrise,  much  to  the  astonishment  of  the  Indians,  who 
were  entirely  prepared  for  the  council  when  they  heard 


ii6  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

I  had  put  off.  However,  after  some  conversation  with 
Mr.  Frazer,  they  acknowledged  that  it  was  agreeably 
to  what  I  had  said,  that  I  would  sail  early,  and  that 
they  could  not  blame  me.  I  was  very  positive  in  my 
word,  for  I  found  it  by  far  the  best  way  to  treat  the 
Indians.  Aile  Rouge  had  a  beaver  robe  and  pipe  pre- 
pared to  present,  but  was  obliged  for  the  present  to  re- 
tain it.  Passed  through  Lake  Pepin  with  my  barges; 
the  canoe  being  obliged  to  lie  by,  did  not  come  on. 
Stopped  at  a  prairie  on  the  right  bank,  descending  about 
nine  miles  below  Lake  Pepin.  Went  out  to  view  some 
hills  which  had  the  appearance  of  the  old  fortifications 
spoken  of,  but  I  will  speak  more  fully  of  them  hereafter. 
In  these  hollows  I  discovered  a  flock  of  elk;  took  out 
15  men,  but  we  were  not  able  to  kill  any.  Mr.  Frazer 
came  up  and  passed  on  about  two  miles.  We  encamped 
together." 

Pike  is  now  going  over  familiar  ground.  He  notes 
passing  Aile  prairie,  Winona,  Trempeleau,  and  La 
Crosse,  camping  at  what  is  now  Brownsville,  where  he 
stopped  to  shoot  pigeons,  and  notes  the  trees  in  bloom. 
He  paid  a  visit  to  Wabashaw,  who  was  out  hunting  and 
left  him  a  present  of  powder  and  tobacco,  and  received 
in  turn  from  his  band  a  kettle  of  hot  soup  and  a  deer. 
The  party  breakfasted  at  Painted  Rock  and  arrived  at 
Prairie  du  Chien  at  two  o'clock  where  it  was  welcomed 
by  crowds  on  the  bank. 

Here  Pike  was  to  break  his  journey  in  order  to  hold 
conferences  with  the  Indians  concerning  recent  mur- 
ders of  white  men.     He  took  up  his  quarters  again  with 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  117 

Mr.  Fisher,  and  his  men  were  hospitably  received  with 
gifts  of  food  from  the  different  white  traders.  What 
was  also,  doubtless,  most  pleasing  was  the  news,  "civil 
and  military,'*  from  the  outside  world  which  he  received 
for  the  first  time  in  many  months.  Immediately  on  his 
arrival  he  took  occasion  to  write  the  following  letter  to 
his  chief.  General  Wilkinson. 

"Prairie  de  CuiE^yApr.  i^th,  1806. 
"Dear  General: 

"  I  arrived  here  within  the  hour,  and  as  Mr.  Jarreau, 
of  Cahokia,  embarks  for  St.  Louis  early  to-morrow 
morning,  I  embrace  this  opportunity  to  give  a  slight 
sketch  of  the  events  of  my  expedition.  Being  obliged 
to  steal  the  hours  from  my  repose,  I  hope  the  General 
will  pardon  the  conciseness  of  my  epistle. 

"I  pushed  forward  last  October  with  all  eagerness, 
in  hopes  to  make  Lake  Sable,  and  return  to  St.  Louis 
in  the  Autumn.  The  weather  was  mild  and  promising 
until  the  middle  of  the  month,  when  a  sudden  change 
took  place  and  the  ice  immediately  commenced  running. 
I  was  then  conscious  of  my  inability  to  return,  as  the 
falls  and  other  obstacles  would  detain  me  until  the  river 
would  close.  I  then  concluded  it  best  to  station  part 
of  my  men,  and  push  my  discovery  with  the  remainder 
on  foot.  I  marched  with  11  soldiers  and  my  interpre- 
ter 700  miles  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  through 
(I  may  without  vanity  say)  as  many  hardships  as  al- 
most any  party  of  Americans  ever  experienced  by  cold 
and  hunger.     I  was  on  the  communication  of  the  Red 


ii8  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

River  and  the  Mississippi,  the  former  being  a  water 
of  Hudson's  bay.  The  British  flag,  which  was  ex- 
panded on  some  very  respectable  positions,  has  given 
place  to  that  of  the  United  States  wherever  we  passed; 
likewise  we  have  the  faith  and  honor  of  the  N.  W. 
Company  for  about  ;?  13,000  duties  this  year;  and  by 
the  voyage  peace  is  established  between  the  Sioux  and 
Sauteurs.  These  objects  I  have  been  happy  to  accom- 
plish without  the  loss  of  one  man,  although  once  fired 
on.  I  expect  hourly  the  Sussitongs,  Yanctongs,  Wach- 
pecoutes,  and  three  other  bands  of  Sioux;  some  are 
from  the  head  of  the  St.  Peters,  and  some  from  the  plains 
west  of  that  river.  From  here  I  bring  with  me  a  few 
of  the  principal  men  only,  agreeably  to  your  orders; 
also,  some  chiefs  of  the  Fols  Avoins  or  Menomones,  and 
Winebagos,  the  latter  of  whom  have  murdered  three 
men  since  my  passing  here  last  autumn.  The  murder- 
ers I  shall  demand,  and  am  in  expectation  of  obtaining 
two,  for  whom  I  now  have  irons  making,  and  expect  to 
have  them  with  me  on  my  arrival.  Indeed,  Sir,  the 
insolence  of  the  savages  in  this  quarter  is  unbounded; 
and  unless  an  immediate  example  is  made,  we  shall  cer- 
tainly be  obliged  to  enter  into  a  general  war  with  them. 

"My  party  has  been  some  small  check  to  them  this 
winter,  as  I  determined  to  preserve  the  dignity  of  our 
flag,  or  die  in  the  attempt. 

"I  presume,  General,  that  my  voyage  will  be  produc- 
tive of  much  new,  useful,  and  interesting  information 
for  our  government,  although  detailed  in  the  unpol- 
ished diction  of  a  soldier  of  fortune. 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  119 

"The  river  broke  up  at  my  stockade,  600  miles  above 
here,  on  the  7th  inst.,  and  Lake  Pepin  was  passable 
for  boats  only  on  the  14th.  Thus  you  may  perceive. 
Sir,  I  have  not  been  slov^  in  my  descent,  leaving  all  the 
traders  behind  me.  From  the  time  it  will  take  to  make 
my  arrangements,  and  the  state  of  the  water,  I  calcu- 
late on  arriving  at  the  cantonment  on  the  4th  of  May; 
and  hope  my  General  will  be  assured  that  nothing  but 
the  most  insurmountable  obstacles  shall  detain  me  one 
moment. 

"N.  B.     I  beg  leave  to  caution  the  General  against 
attending  to  the  reports  of  any  individuals  relating  to 
this  country,  as  the  most  unbounded  prejudices  and 
party  rancor  pervade  almost  generally. 
"I  am,  dear  Sir, 

"With  great  consideration, 
"Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]  "Z.  M.  Pike,  Ur 

Pike  found  awaiting  him  at  Prairie  du  Chien  a  number 
of  chiefs.  Fox,  Sioux  from  the  Des  Moines  River,  and 
soon  after  came  six  canoes  of  Yanktons  from  St.  Peters, 
which  he  considered  more  nearly  resembled  savages 
than  any  Indians  he  had  met,  and  chief  Wabashaw, 
whom  he  had  missed  up  the  river,  and  with  whom  he 
had  a  private  conference.  His  chief  business,  however, 
was  with  the  Winnebagos,  "  Puants,"  as  he  calls  them. 

*^  Sunday,  Apr.  20th.  Held  a  council  with  the  Puant 
chiefs,  and  demanded  of  them  the  murderers  of  their 
nation;    they  required   till  to-morrow  to  consider  it. 


120  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

I  made  a  written  demand  of  the  magistrates  to  take 
depositions  concerning  the  late  murders.  Had  a  private 
conversation  v^ith  Wabasha. 

"This  afternoon  they  had  a  great  game  of  the  cross  on 
the  prairie,  between  the  Sioux  on  the  one  side,  and  the 
Puants  and  Reynards  on  the  other.  The  ball  is  made 
of  some  hard  substance  and  covered  with  leather;  the 
cross-sticks  are  round  and  net-work,  with  handles  of 
three  feet  long.  The  parties  being  ready,  and  bets 
agreed  upon,  sometimes  to  the  amount  of  some  thousand 
dollars,  the  goals  are  set  up  on  the  prairie  at  the  dis- 
tance of  half  a  mile.  The  ball  is  thrown  up  in  the 
middle,  and  each  party  strives  to  drive  it  to  the  opposite 
goal;  when  either  party  gains  the  first  rubber,  which  is 
driving  it  quick  round  the  post,  the  ball  is  again  taken 
to  the  center,  the  ground  changed,  and  the  contest  re- 
newed; and  this  is  continued  until  one  side  gains  four 
times,  which  decides  the  bet.  It  is  an  interesting  sight 
to  see  two  or  three  hundred  naked  savages  contending 
on  the  plain  who  shall  bear  off  the  palm  of  victory;  as 
he  who  drives  the  ball  round  the  goal  is  much  shouted 
at  by  his  companions.  It  sometimes  happens  that  one 
catches  the  ball  in  his  racket,  and  depending  on  his  speed 
endeavors  to  carry  it  to  the  goal;  when  he  finds  himself 
too  closely  pursued  he  hurls  it  with  great  force  and 
dexterity  to  an  amazing  distance,  where  there  are  al- 
ways flankers  of  both  parties  ready  to  receive  it;  it 
seldom  touches  the  ground,  but  is  sometimes  kept  in 
the  air  for  hours  before  either  party  can  gain  the  victory. 
In  the  game  which  I  witnessed  the  Sioux  were  victorious 


w 
h 

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H 
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m 

W 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  121 

— more,  I  believe,  from  the  superiority  of  their  skill  in 
throwing  the  ball  than  by  their  swiftness,  for  I  thought 
the  Puants  and  Reynards  the  swiftest  runners. 

''April  21  si.  Was  sent  for  by  Le  Feuille,  and  had  a 
long  and  interesting  conversation  with  him,  in  which  he 
spoke  of  the  general  jealousy  of  his  nation  toward  their 
chiefs;  and  said  that  although  it  might  cause  some  of 
the  Sioux  displeasure,  he  did  not  hesitate  to  declare  that 
he  looked  on  Nez  Corbeau  as  the  man  of  most  sense  in 
the  nation,  and  he  believed  it  would  be  generally  accept- 
able if  he  was  reinstated  in  his  rank.  Upon  my  return 
I  was  sent  for  by  Red  Thunder,  chief  of  the  Yanctongs, 
the  most  savage  band  of  the  Sioux.  He  was  prepared 
with  the  most  elegant  pipe  and  robes  I  ever  saw,  and 
shortly  declared,  that  white  blood  had  never  been 
shed  in  the  village  of  the  Yanctongs,  even  when  rum 
was  permitted;  that  Mr.  Murdoch  Cameron  arrived 
at  his  village  last  Autumn;  that  he  invited  him  to  eat, 
gave  him  corn  and  a  bird;  that  Cameron  informed  him 
of  the  prohibition  of  rum,  and  was  the  only  person  who 
afterward  sold  it  in  the  village.  After  this  I  had  a  coun- 
cil with  the  Puants.  Spent  the  evening  with  Mr.  Wil- 
mot,  one  of  the  best  informed  men  in  the  place. 

"April  22nd.  Held  a  council  with  the  Sioux  and 
Puants,  the  latter  of  whom  delivered  up  their  medals 
and  flags.     Prepared  to  depart  to-morrow." 

This  council  was  neither  so  brief  nor  so  unimportant 
as  this  entry  in  the  diary  might  suggest.  In  the  archives 
of  the  War  Department  Pike's  speech  is  preserved  and 
may  be  given  here  to  show  the  wisdom  and  moderation. 


122  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

not  only  of  the  young  leader,  but  of  the  government  he 
represented : 

"Brothers:  When  I  passed  here  last  summer  I  re- 
quested to  see  you  on  my  return.  I  am  pleased  to  see 
you  have  listened  to  my  words.  It  pleased  the  Great 
Spirit  to  open  the  ears  of  all  the  nations  through  which 
I  passed,  to  hear  and  attend  to  the  words  of  their  father. 
Peace  has  been  established  between  two  of  the  most 
powerful  nations  in  this  quarter. 

**  Notwithstanding  all  this,  some  of  your  nation  have 
been  bold  enough  to  kill  some  of  the  white  people.  Not 
content  with  firing  on  the  canoes  descending  the  Ouis- 
cousing  last  autumn,  they  have  killed  a  man  on  Rock 
river,  when  sitting  peaceably  in  his  tent.  They  have 
also  recently  murdered  a  young  man  near  this  place, 
without  any  provocation  whatever.  As  an  officer  of 
the  United  States,  it  is  my  duty  to  demand  the  murder- 
ers;  and  I  do  now  demand  them. 

"Brothers:  In  this  action  I  am  not  influenced  or 
urged  by  any  individual  of  this  place,  or  the  people 
generally;  no  more  than  as  it  is  my  duty  to  give  all  our 
citizens  all  the  protection  in  my  power.  I  will  not  de- 
ceive you.  If  the  prisoners  are  delivered  to  me,  I  shall 
put  them  in  irons,  under  my  guards,  and  in  all  instances 
treat  them  as  men  guilty  of  a  capital  crime;  on  their 
arrival  below,  they  will  be  tried  for  their  lives;  and  if 
it  be  proved  they  have  killed  these  people  without  prov- 
ocation, in  all  probability  they  will  be  put  to  death.  If, 
on  the  contrary,  it  is  proved  that  the  whites  were  the 
aggressors,  and  it  was  only  self-defence,  it  will  be  deemed 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  123 

justifiable,  and  they  will  be  sent  back  to  their  na- 
tion. 

"  It  becomes  you  well  to  consider  whether  in  case  of  re- 
fusal you  are  sufficiently  powerful  to  protect  these  men 
against  the  power  of  the  United  States,  which  have 
always,  since  the  treaty  of  1795,  treated  all  the  savages 
as  their  children;  but  if  they  are  obliged  to  march 
troops  to  punish  the  many  murders  committed  on  their 
citizens,  then  the  innocent  will  suffer  with  the  guilty. 

**My  demand  will  be  reported  in  candor  and  truth 
below;  when  the  general  will  take  such  steps  as  he  may 
deem  proper.  But  I  hope  for  the  sake  of  your  inno- 
cent women  and  children,  you  will  do  us  and  your- 
selves justice.  I  was  directed  to  invite  a  few  chiefs 
down  with  me  to  St.  Louis.  Many  of  the  different 
bands  are  about  to  descend  with  me.  I  now  give  an 
invitation  to  two  or  three  of  your  principal  men  to  de- 
scend with  me.  Whatever  are  your  determinations,  I 
pledge  the  faith  of  a  soldier  for  a  safe  conduct  back  to 
your  nation.  At  present  I  am  instructed  not  to  act  by 
force  to  procure  those  men,  therefore,  you  will  consider 
yourselves  as  acting  without  restraint,  and  under  free 
deliberations. 

*'They  replied  that  they  thanked  me  for  the  generous 
and  candid  manner  in  which  I  had  explained  myself 
and  that  they  would  give  me  an  answer  to-morrow." 

The  next  day  Little  Thunder  and  Karamone,  speak- 
ing for  the  Winnebagos,  offered  to  take  the  murderers 
to  St.  Louis  themselves.  Pike  insisted  on  a  definite 
time  being  set  and  their  reply  was  "ten  days  to  the 
Prairie  and  ten  days  to  St.  Louis."     Pike  replied  that 


124  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

if  they  failed  to  keep  this  agreement  the  consequences 
would  be  serious,  and  having  learned  that  they  had  re- 
cently raised  the  British  flag  he  insisted  that  they  bring 
this  and  their  medals  with  them  and  deliver  them  to 
their  father.  A  further  council  was  held  with  the  Sioux, 
Yanktons,  and  northern  tribes.  Tonnerre  Rouge  per- 
tinently inquired  why  liquor  was  permitted  to  be  sold 
on  the  Louisiana  side  of  the  river  and  not  on  the  east- 
ern side.  Pike  assured  them  that  very  soon  liquor  would 
be  prohibited  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
again  invited  them  to  go  with  him  to  St.  Louis,  where 
their  father  would  make  chiefs  of  them.  The  council 
ended  with  a  speech  of  Karamone,  who.  Pike  writes, 
"spoke  with  apparent  difl&culty;  assured  me  of  the 
shame,  disgrace,  and  distress  of  their  nation,  and  that 
he  would  fulfill  what  the  others  had  said;  said  that  he 
sent  by  me  the  medal  of  his  father,  which  he  considered 
himself  no  longer  worthy  to  bear — putting  it  around  my 
neck,  trembling — and  begged  me  to  intercede  with  the 
general  in  their  favor,  etc. 

"I  assured  him  that  the  American  was  a  generous 
nation,  not  confounding  the  innocent  with  the  guilty; 
that  when  they  had  delivered  up  the  three  or  four  dogs 
who  had  covered  them  with  blood,  we  would  again 
look  on  them  as  our  children;  advised  them  to  take 
courage,  that,  if  they  did  well,  they  should  be  treated 
well;  said  that  I  would  tell  the  general  everything 
relative  to  the  aflPair;  also,  their  repentance,  and 
determination  to  deliver  themselves  and  the  murder- 
ers, and  that  I  would  explain  about  their  flags  and 
medals." 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  125 

The  Council  ended  on  April  23rd.  Pike  bade  adieu 
to  his  friends,  and  saluted  by  the  seventeen  lodges  of 
the  Puants,  or  Winnebagos,  set  sail  for  the  last  stage  of 
his  remarkable  journey.  Shortly  after  he  met  a  barge 
and  from  it  received  a  letter  from  "my  lady,"  and  at 
ten  o'clock  arrived  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Dubuque,  where 
he  had  stopped  ascending  the  river,  and  from  v^hom 
he  wished  some  information.  From  here  he  writes: 
"After  we  had  boiled  our  victuals,  I  divided  my  men 
into  four  watches,  and  put  off,  wind  ahead.  Ob- 
served for  the  first  time  the  half  formed  leaves  on  the 
trees. 

*'  April  2\th.  In  the  morning  we  used  our  oars  until 
ten  o'clock,  and  then  floated  while  breakfasting.  At 
this  time  two  barges,  one  bark  and  two  wooded  canoes 
passed  us  under  full  sail;  by  one  of  which  I  sent  back 
a  letter  to  Mr.  Dubuque  I  had  forgotten  to  deliver. 
Stopped  at  dark  to  get  supper;  after  which,  rowed  under 
the  windward  shore,  expecting  we  could  make  headway 
with  four  oars;  but  were  blown  on  the  lee  shore  in  a 
few  moments,  when  all  hands  were  summoned,  and  we 
again  with  difficulty  made  to  windward,  came  to,  placed 
one  sentry  on  my  bow  and  all  hands  went  to  sleep.  It 
rained,  and  before  morning  overflowed  my  bed  in  the 
bottom  of  the  boat,  having  no  cover  or  extra  accommo- 
dations, as  it  might  have  retarded  my  voyage.  The 
wind  very  hard  ahead. 

''Apr.  zyh.  Obliged  to  unship  our  mast  to  prevent 
its  rolling  overboard  with  the  swell.  Passed  the  first 
Reynard  village  at  twelve  o'clock;    counted  eighteen 


126  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

lodges.  Stopped  at  the  prairie  in  descending  on  the 
left,  about  the  middle  of  the  rapids,  where  there  is  a 
beautiful  cove  or  harbor.  There  were  three  lodges  of 
Indians  here,  but  none  of  them  came  near  us.  Shortly 
after  we  had  left  this,  observed  a  barge  under  sail,  with 
the  United  States  flag,  which  upon  our  being  seen  put  to 
shore  on  the  Big  Island,  about  three  miles  above  Stony 
river,  where  I  also  landed.  It  proved  to  be  Capt.  Many 
of  the  Artillerists,  who  was  in  search  of  some  Osage 
prisoners  among  the  Sacs  and  Reynards.  He  informed 
me  that  at  the  village  of  Stony  Point  the  Indians  evinced 
a  strong  disposition  to  commit  hostihties;  that  he  was 
met  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  by  an  old  Indian,  who 
said  that  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  were  in  a  state 
of  intoxication,  and  advised  him  to  go  up  alone.  This 
advice,  however,  he  had  rejected.  That  when  they  ar- 
rived there  they  were  saluted  by  the  appellation  of  the 
bloody  Americans  who  had  killed  such  a  person's  father, 
such  a  person's  mother,  brother,  etc.  The  women  car- 
ried off  the  guns  and  other  arms,  and  concealed  them. 
That  he  then  crossed  the  river  opposite  the  village, 
and  was  followed  by  a  number  of  Indians  with  pistob 
under  their  blankets.  That  they  would  listen  to  no 
conference  whatever  relating  to  the  delivery  of  the 
prisoners,  but  demanded  insolently  why  he  wore  a 
plume  in  his  hat,  declared  that  they  looked  on  it  as  a 
mark  of  war,  and  immediately  decorated  themselves 
with  their  raven's  feathers,  worn  only  in  cases  of  hos- 
tility. We  regretted  that  our  orders  would  not  permit 
of  our  punishing  the  scoundrels,  as  by  a  coup  de  main 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  127 

we  might  easily  have  carried  the  village.  Gave  Capt. 
Many  a  note  of  introduction  to  Messrs.  Campbell, 
Fisher,  Wilmot,  and  Dubuque,  and  every  information 
in  my  power.     We  sat  up  late  conversing. 

''Apr.  26th,  Capt.  Many  and  myself  took  break- 
fast and  embarked;  wind  directly  ahead,  and  a  most 
tremendous  swell  to  combat,  which  has  existed  ever 
since  we  left  the  prairie.  Capt.  Many  under  full  sail. 
Descended  by  all  the  sinuosity  of  the  shore,  to  avoid 
the  strength  of  the  wind  and  force  of  the  waves.  Indeed 
I  was  confident  I  could  sail  much  faster  up  than  we 
could  possibly  make  down.  Encamped  on  Grant's 
Prairie,  where  we  had  encamped  Aug.  25th  when  as- 
cending. There  was  one  Indian  and  family  present, 
to  whom  I  gave  some  corn. 

''Sunday,  Apr.  2'jth.  It  cleared  off  during  the  might. 
We  embarked  early  and  came  from  eight  or  ten  leagues 
above  the  river  Iowa  to  the  establishment  at  the  lower 
Sac  village  by  sundown,  a  distance  of  nearly  48  leagues. 
Here  I  met  with  Messrs.  Maxwell  and  Blondeau;  took 
the  deposition  of  the  former  on  the  subject  of  the 
Indians'  intoxication  at  this  place,  for  they  were  all 
drunk.  They  had  stolen  a  horse  from  the  establish- 
ment, and  offered  to  bring  him  back  for  liquor,  but 
laughed  at  them  when  offered  a  blanket  and  powder. 
Passed  two  canoes  and  two  barges.  At  the  establish- 
ment received  two  letters  from  Mrs.  Pike.  Took  with 
us  Corporal  Eddy  and  the  other  soldier  whom  Capt. 
Many  had  left.  Rowed  with  four  oars  all  night.  A 
citizen  took  passage  with  me. 


128  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

'^Apr,  2Sth.  In  the  morning  passed  a  wintering- 
ground  where,  from  appearance,  there  must  have  been 
at  least  seven  or  eight  different  establishments.  At 
twelve  o'clock  arrived  at  the  French  house  mentioned 
in  our  voyage  up,  Aug.  i6th.  Here  we  landed  our 
citizen;  his  name  was  [Blank],  and  he  belonged  to  the 
settlement  on  Copper  river.  He  informed  me  there 
were  about  25  families  in  the  settlement. 

"Stopped  at  some  islands  about  ten  miles  above  Salt 
river,  where  there  were  pigeon  roosts,  and  in  about 
15  minutes  my  men  had  knocked  on  the  heads  and 
brought  on  board  298.  I  had  frequently  heard  of  the 
fecundity  of  this  bird,  and  never  gave  credit  to  what  I 
then  thought  inclined  to  be  marvellous;  but  really  the 
most  fervid  imagination  cannot  conceive  their  numbers. 
Their  noise  in  the  wood  was  like  the  continued  roaring 
of  the  wind,  and  the  ground  may  be  said  to  have  been 
absolutely  covered  with  their  excrement.  The  young 
ones  which  we  killed  were  nearly  as  large  as  the  old; 
they  could  fly  about  ten  steps,  and  were  one  mass  of  fat; 
their  craws  were  filled  with  acorns  and  wild  pea.  They 
were  still  reposing  on  their  nests,  which  were  merely 
small  bunches  of  sticks  joined,  with  which  all  the  small 
trees  were  covered. 

"Met  four  canoes  of  Sacs,  with  wicker  baskets  filled 
with  young  pigeons.  They  made  motions  to  exchange 
them  for  liquor,  to  which  I  returned  the  back  of  my 
hand.  Indeed  those  scoundrels  had  become  so  inso- 
lent, through  the  instigation  of  the  traders,  that  nothing 
but  the  lenity  of  our  government  and  humanity  for  the 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  129 

poor  devils  could  have  restrained  me  on  my  descent 
from  carrying  some  of  their  town  by  surprise,  which  I 
was  determined  to  have  done  had  the  information  of 
their  firing  on  Capt.  Many  proved  to  have  been  correct. 

"Put  into  the  mouth  of  Salt  river  to  cook  supper, 
after  which,  although  raining,  we  put  off  and  set  our 
watches;  but  so  violent  a  gale  and  thunder  storm  came 
on  about  twelve  o'clock  that  we  put  ashore.  Discov- 
ered that  one  of  my  sleigh  dogs  was  missing. 

*'Apr,  2gth.  In  the  morning  still  raining,  and  wind 
up  the  river;  hoisted  sail  and  returned  to  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  but  neither  here  nor  on  the  shore  could  we 
find  my  dog.  This  was  no  little  mortification,  as  it 
broke  the  match,  whose  important  services  I  had  al- 
ready experienced,  after  having  brought  them  so  near 
home.  We  continued  on  until  twelve  o'clock,  when  it 
ceased  raining  for  a  little  time,  and  we  put  ashore  for 
breakfast.  Rowed  till  sundown,  when  I  set  the  watch. 
Night  fine  and  mild. 

''Apr.  ^oth.  By  daylight  found  ourselves  at  the 
Portage  de  Sioux.  I  here  landed  Captain  Many's  two 
men,  and  ordered  them  across  by  land  to  the  canton- 
ment. As  I  had  never  seen  the  village,  I  walked  up 
and  through  it;  there  are  not  more  than  21  houses  at 
furthest,  which  are  built  of  square  logs.  Met  Lieut. 
Hughes  about  four  miles  above  St.  Louis,  with  more 
than  20  Osage  prisoners,  conveying  them  to  the  can- 
tonment on  the  Missouri;  he  informed  me  all  my 
friends  were  well.  Arrived  at  about  twelve  o'clock  at 
the  town,  after  an  absence  of  eight  months  and  22  days," 


130  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Thus  briefly  Pike  concludes  his  diary,  but  not  his 
labors.  From  Bellefontaine,  the  army  post  above  St. 
Louis,  where  a  garrison  was  stationed,  Pike  made  his 
various  reports  to  General  Wilkinson  on  the  Mississippi, 
the  fur  trade  of  the  North  West  and  on  the  Indian  tribes 
he  had  visited.  The  meagre  diary  gives  no  hint  of  the 
amount  of  faithful  detail  Pike  collected  during  this 
voyage  and  the  importance  of  these  facts  to  the  govern- 
ment. Concerning  the  British  flags  and  medals  which 
all  along  this  route  he  insisted  on  the  Indians  giving  up, 
he  was  now  equally  insistent  on  the  government  re- 
placing as  he  had  promised.     He  writes: 

"My  faith  was  pledged  to  the  savage  chiefs  for  the 
replacing  of  the  medals  and  flags  of  the  British  govern- 
ment which  they  surrendered  me,  by  others  of  the  same 
magnitude  of  the  United  States;  but  owing  to  the 
change  of  agents,  and  a  variety  of  circumstances,  it  was 
never  fulfilled.  This  has  left  a  number  of  the  Sioux 
and  Sauteur  chiefs  without  their  distinguishing  marks 
of  dignity,  and  has  induced  them  to  look  on  my  con- 
duct toward  them  as  a  premeditated  fraud.  This 
would  render  my  life  in  danger  should  I  ever  return 
amongst  them,  and  the  situation  of  any  other  officer 
who  should  presume  to  make  a  similar  demand  extreme- 
ly delicate;  besides  it  has  compromitted  with  those 
savage  warriors  the  faith  of  our  government,  which  to 
enable  any  government  ever  to  do  good,  should  be  held 
inviolate." 

This  paragraph  was  subsequently  added  because  of 
the  delay  in  sending  the  Indians  the  promised  medals. 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  131 

The  delay,  however,  was  caused  by  the  fact  that  the 
government  did  not  at  the  time  have  any,  and  was 
subsequently  remedied.  In  a  familiar  letter  to  his 
general  Pike  writes  of  sending  him  the  skins  of  the  lynx 
and  "brelaw"  and  offers  him  his  sleigh  dogs,  when  he 
has  secured  a  mate  to  replace  the  one  lost.  More  for- 
mally he  concludes  the  whole  journey  in  the  following 
letter,  which  discloses  the  simplicity  of  the  soldier  and 
the  modesty  of  the  man. 

"Belle  Fontaine,  July  2nd,  1^06 
"Dear  Sir: 

"I  have  at  length  finished  all  my  reports,  observations 
and  journals,  which  arose  from  my  late  voyage  to  the 
source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  hope  they  may  prove 
interesting,  from  the  information  and  the  different  sub- 
jects which  they  contain. 

"I  perceive  I  differ  materially  from  Captain  Lewis 
in  my  account  of  the  numbers,  manners  and  morals 
of  the  Sioux.  But  our  reception  by  that  nation  at  the 
first  interview  being  so  different,  it  no  doubt  left  an 
impression  on  our  minds,  which  may  have,  unknown  to 
ourselves,  given  a  cast  to  our  observations.  I  will  not 
only  vouch  for  the  authenticity  of  my  account  as  to 
numbers,  arms,  etc.,  from  my  own  notes,  but  from 
having  had  them  revised  and  corrected  by  a  gentleman 
of  Hberal  education,  who  has  resided  18  years  in  that 
nation,  speaks  their  language,  and  for  some  years  past 
has  been  collecting  materials  for  their  natural  and 
philosophical  history. 


132  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"I  have  not  attempted  to  give  an  account  of  nations 
of  Indians  whom  I  did  not  visit,  except  the  Assinni- 
boins,  whom,  from  their  intimate  connection  with  the 
Sioux,  in  a  Hneal  point  of  view,  it  would  have  been  im- 
proper to  leave  out  of  the  catalogue. 

"The  correctness  of  the  geographical  parts  of  the 
voyage  I  will  vouch  for,  as  I  spared  neither  time,  fatigue, 
nor  danger,  to  see  for  myself  every  part  connected  with 
my  immediate  route. 

"As  the  general  already  knows,  at  the  time  I  left  St. 
Louis  there  were  no  instruments  proper  for  celestial 
observations,  excepting  those  which  he  furnished  me, 
which  were  inadequate  to  taking  the  longitude;  neither 
had  I  the  proper  tables  or  authors  to  accomplish  that 
object,  though  it  can  no  doubt  be  ascertained  by  various 
charts  at  diflferent  points  of  my  route.  Nor  had  I 
proper  time-pieces  or  instruments  for  meteorological 
observations.  Those  made  were  from  an  imperfect  in- 
strument which  I  purchased  in  the  town  of  St.  Louis. 

"  I  do  not  possess  the  qualifications  of  the  naturalist, 
and  even  had  they  been  mine,  it  would  have  been  im- 
possible to  gratify  them  to  any  great  extent,  as  we  passed 
with  rapidity  over  the  country  we  surveyed,  which  was 
covered  with  snow  six  months  out  of  the  nine  I  was 
absent.  And  indeed,  my  thoughts  were  too  much  en- 
grossed in  making  provision  for  the  exigencies  of  the 
morrow  to  attempt  a  science  which  requires  time,  and 
a  placidity  of  mind  which  seldom  fell  to  my  lot. 

"The  journal  in  itself  will  have  little  to  strike  the 
imagination,  being  but  a  dull  detail  of  our  daily  march, 


Leech  Lake  to  St.  Louis  133 

and  containing  many  notes  which  should  have  come 
into  the  geographical  part;  others  of  observations  on  the 
savage  character,  and  many  that  were  never  intended  to 
be  included  in  my  official  report. 

"The  daily  occurrences  written  at  night,  frequently 
by  fire-light,  when  extremely  fatigued,  and  the  cold  so 
severe  as  to  freeze  the  ink  in  my  pen,  of  course  have 
little  claim  to  elegance  of  expression  or  style;  but  they 
have  truth  to  recommend  them,  which,  if  always  at- 
tended to,  would  strip  the  pages  of  many  of  our  journal- 
ists of  their  most  interesting  occurrences. 

"The  general  will  please  to  recollect  also,  that  I  had 
scarcely  returned  to  St.  Louis  before  the  voyage  now  in 
contemplation  was  proposed  to  me;  and  that,  after 
some  consideration  my  duty,  and  inclination  in  some 
respects,  induced  me  to  undertake  it.  The  prepara- 
tions for  my  new  voyage  prevented  the  possibility  of 
my  paying  that  attention  to  the  correction  of  my  errors 
that  I  should  otherwise  have  done.  This,  with  the 
foregoing  reasons,  will,  I  hope,  be  deemed  a  sufficient 
apology  for  the  numerous  errors,  tautologies,  and  ego- 
tisms which  will  appear. 

"I  am,  dear  General, 
"With  great  respect, 

"Your  obedient  servant, 
[Signed]  "Z.  M.  Pike, 

"Z/.  1st  Regt.  Infty^ 

"General  James  Wilkinson." 


CHAPTER  IV 

THE  ARKANSAS  JOURNEY 

July  i5Th-Sept.  30TH,  1806. 

Pike  had  only  been  at  the  cantonment  at  Bellefon- 
taine  two  weeks  when  he  was  called  upon  by  his  com- 
mander-in-chief to  head  a  second  expedition,  now 
toward  the  South-west.  Before,  indeed,  he  had  reached 
the  post.  General  Wilkinson  had  addressed  him  the 
following  letter.  This  is  given  entire  in  order  to  show 
how  numerous  and  exacting  were  the  demands  on  the 
young  officer.  From  these  we  may  also  infer  how  sat- 
isfactory to  the  commander-in-chief  had  been  his  con- 
duct of  the  first  expedition. 

"St.  Louis,  June  2\th,  1806. 

"Sir:  You  are  to  proceed  without  delay  to  the  can- 
tonment on  the  Missouri  [at  Belle  Fontaine],  where 
you  are  to  embark  the  late  Osage  captives  and  the  depu- 
tation recently  returned  from  Washington,  with  their 
presents  and  baggage,  and  are  to  transport  the  whole 
up  the  Missouri  and  Osage  rivers  to  the  town  of  the 
Grand  Osage. 

"The  safe  delivery  of  this  charge  at  the  point  of  des- 
tination constitutes  the  primary  object  of  your  expe- 
dition; therefore  you  are  to  move  with  such  caution  as 
may  prevent  surprise  from  any  hostile  band,  and  are  to 

134 


The  Arkansas  Journey  135 

repel  with  your  utmost  force  any  outrage  which  may  be 
attempted. 

"Having  safely  deposited  your  passengers  and  their 
property,  you  are  to  turn  your  attention  to  the  accom- 
plishment of  a  permanent  peace  between  the  Kanses 
and  Osage  nations;  for  which  purpose  you  must  effect 
a  meeting  between  the  head  chiefs  of  those  nations, 
and  are  to  employ  such  arguments,  deduced  from  their 
own  obvious  interests,  as  well  as  the  inclinations,  de- 
sires, and  commands  of  the  president  of  the  United 
States,  as  may  facilitate  your  purpose  and  accomplish 
the  end. 

"A  third  object  of  considerable  magnitude  will  then 
claim  your  consideration.  It  is  to  effect  an  interview 
and  establish  a  good  understanding  with  the  Yanctons, 
Tetaus,  or  Camanches. 

"For  this  purpose  you  must  interest  White  Hair,  of 
the  Grand  Osage,  with  whom  and  a  suitable  deputation 
you  will  visit  the  Panis  republic,  where  you  may  find 
interpreters,  and  inform  yourself  of  the  most  feasible 
plan  by  which  to  bring  the  Camanches  to  a  conference. 
Should  you  succeed  in  this  attempt — and  no  pains  must 
be  spared  to  effect  it — you  will  endeavor  to  make  peace 
between  that  distant  powerful  nation  and  the  nations 
which  inhabit  the  country  between  us  and  them,  par- 
ticularly the  Osage;  finally,  you  will  endeavor  to  induce 
eight  or  ten  of  their  distinguished  chiefs  to  make  a  visit 
to  the  seat  of  government  next  September,  and  you  may 
attach  to  this  deputation  four  or  five  Panis  and  the  same 
number  of  Kanses  chiefs. 

"As  your  interview  with  the  Camanches  will  probably 


136  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

lead  you  to  the  head  branches  of  the  Arkansaw  and  Red 
rivers,  you  may  find  yourself  approximated  to  the  settle- 
ments of  New  Mexico.  There  it  will  be  necessary  you 
should  move  with  great  circumspection,  to  keep  clear 
of  any  hunting  or  reconnoitering  parties  from  that 
province,  and  to  prevent  alarm  or  offense;  because  the 
affairs  of  Spain  and  the  United  States  appear  to  be  on 
the  point  of  amicable  adjustment,  and  moreover  it  is  the 
desire  of  the  president  to  cultivate  the  friendship  and 
harmonious  intercourse  of  all  the  nations  of  the  earth, 
particularly  our  near  neighbors  the  Spaniards. 

"  In  the  course  of  your  tour,  you  are  to  remark  par- 
ticularly upon  the  geographical  structure,  the  natural 
history,  and  population  of  the  country  through  which 
you  may  pass,  taking  particular  care  to  collect  and 
preserve  specimens  of  everything  curious  in  the  mineral 
or  botanical  worlds,  which  can  be  preserved  and  are 
portable.  Let  your  courses  be  regulated  by  your  com- 
pass, and  your  distances  by  your  watch  to  be  noted  in 
your  field  book;  and  I  would  advise  you,  when  circum- 
stances permit,  to  protract  and  lay  down  in  a  separate 
book  the  march  of  the  day  at  every  evening's  halt. 

"The  instruments  which  I  have  furnished  you  will 
enable  you  to  ascertain  the  variations  of  the  magnetic 
needle  and  the  latitude;  and  at  every  remarkable  point 
I  wish  you  to  employ  your  telescope  in  observing  the 
eclipses. of  Jupiter's  satelHtes,  having  regulated  and  ad- 
justed your  watch  by  your  quadrant,  taking  care  to  note 
with  great  nicety  the  periods  of  immersions  and  emer- 
sions of  the  eclipsed  satellites.  These  observations  may 
enable  us,  after  your  return,  by  application  to  the  appro- 


The  Arkansas  Journey  137 

priate  tables,  which  I  cannot  now  furnish  you,  to  as- 
certain the  longitude. 

"  It  is  an  object  of  much  interest  with  the  executive 
to  ascertain  the  direction,  extent,  and  navigation  of  the 
Arkansaw  and  Red  rivers;  as  far,  therefore,  as  may 
be  compatible  with  these  instructions  and  practicable 
to  the  means  you  may  command,  I  wish  you  to  carry 
your  views  to  those  subjects;  and  should  circumstances 
conspire  to  favor  the  enterprise,  that  you  may  detach  a 
party  with  a  few  Osage  to  descend  the  Arkansaw  under 
the  orders  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  or  Sergeant  Ballin- 
ger,  properly  instructed  and  equipped  to  take  the  courses 
and  distances,  to  remark  on  the  soil,  timber,  etc.,  and  to 
note  the  tributary  streams.  This  party  will,  after  reach- 
ing our  post  on  the  Arkansaw,  descend  to  Fort  Adams 
and  there  await  further  orders;  and  you  yourself  may 
descend  the  Red  river,  accompanied  by  a  party  of  the 
most  respectable  Camanches,  to  the  post  of  Nachitoches, 
and  there  receive  further  orders. 

"To  disburse  your  necessary  expenses  and  to  aid 
your  negotiations,  you  are  herewith  furnished  six  hun- 
dred dollars'  worth  of  goods,  for  the  appropriation  of 
which  you  are  to  render  a  strict  account,  vouched  by 
documents  to  be  attested  by  one  of  your  party. 

"Wishing  you  a  safe  and  successful  expedition, 
**I  am.  Sir, 

"With  much  respect  and  esteem, 
"Your  obedient  servant, 
[Signed]  "James  Wilkinson. 

"Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike." 


138  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

With  no  further  prehminaries  the  party  started  up  the 
Missouri  river,  a  turbulent,  dangerous  stream.  Accom- 
panying Pike  were  Lieutenant  James  B.  Wilkinson,  a 
nephew  of  the  General-in-chief,  Dr.  John  H.  Robinson, 
who  volunteered  as  surgeon  of  the  expedition,  an  inter- 
preter, **Baroney"  Vasquez,  three  non-commissioned 
officers,  Ballinger,  Meek,  and  Johnson,  and  the  privates 
of  the  Mississippi  exploring  expedition,  including  the 
worthless  Kennerman,  who  shortly  deserted.  With  his 
accustomed  brevity  the  leader  notes  the  start  of  the 
party  into  this  unknown  country  on  a  journey  which 
lacked  only  a  fortnight  to  complete  a  year  of  peril  and 
extreme  suffering. 

**  Tuesday,  July  15th,  1806.  We  sailed  from  the 
landing  at  Belle  Fontaine  about  3  o'clock  p.  m.,  in  two 
boats.  Our  party  consisted  of  two  lieutenants,  one 
surgeon,  one  sergeant  two  corporals,  16  privates  and 
one  interpreter.  We  had  also  under  our  charge  chiefs 
of  the  Osage  and  Pawnees,  who,  with  a  number  of 
women  and  children,  had  been  to  Washington.  These 
Indians  had  been  redeemed  from  captivity  among  the 
Potowatomies,  and  were  now  to  be  returned  to  their 
friends  at  the  Osage  towns.  The  whole  number  of 
Indians  amounted  to  51. 

"We  ascended  the  river  about  six  miles,  and  en- 
camped on  the  South  side  behind  an  island.  This  day 
my  boat  swung  around  twice;  once  when  we  had  a 
tow-rope  on  shore,  which  it  snapped  off  in  an  instant. 
The  Indians  did  not  encamp  with  us  at  night.  Dis- 
tance six  miles. 


The  Arkansas  Journey  139 

^^  July  i6th.  We  rejoined  our  red  brethren  at  break- 
fast, after  which  we  again  separated,  and  with  very 
severe  labor  arrived  late  in  the  evening  opposite  the 
village  of  St.  Charles,  where  the  Indians  joined  us. 
Distance  15  miles. 

''July  Jjth,  We  crossed  the  river  to  learn  if  any 
communications  had  arrived  from  St.  Louis,  and  if  there 
was  any  news  of  other  Indian  enemies  of  the  Osages. 
Called  at  Mr.  James  Morrison's,  and  was  introduced 
to  Mr.  Henry,  of  New  Jersey,  about  28  years  of  age; 
he  spoke  a  little  Spanish  and  French  tolerably  well; 
he  wished  to  go  with  me  as  a  volunteer.  From  this  place 
I  wrote  letters  back  to  Belle  Fontaine,  whilst  the  Indians 
were  crossing  the  river.  A  man  by  the  name  of  Ramsay 
reported  to  the  Indians  that  500  Sacs,  loways,  Rey- 
nards were  at  the  mouth  of  Big  Manitou.  This  gave 
them  some  uneasiness,  and  it  took  me  some  time  to  do 
away  the  impression  made  upon  them,  for  I  by  no 
means  believed  it.  We  were  about  sailing  when  my 
interpreter  was  arrested  at  the  suit  of  Manuel  de  Liza 
for  a  debt  of  between  ;?300  and  ;?400,  and  was  obliged 
to  return  to  St.  Louis.  This  made  it  necessary  for  me 
to  write  another  letter  to  the  General.  We  encamped 
about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  above  the  village. 

''July  iSih,  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  Dr.  Robin- 
son went  with  the  Indians  across  the  country  to  the 
village  of  La  Charette.  Mr.  George  Henry  engaged, 
under  oath,  to  accompany  me  on  my  tour.  Wrote  to 
the  general  and  inclosed  him  one  of  Henry's  engage- 
ments.    After  we  had  made  our  little  arrangements  we 


140  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

marched  by  land  and  joined  the  boats,  which  had  sailed 
early  [in  charge  of  Sergeant  Ballinger],  at  twelve  o'clock. 
Two  of  the  men  being  sick,  I  steered  one  boat  and  Mr. 
Henry  the  other,  by  which  means  we  were  enabled  to 
keep  employed  our  full  complement  of  oars,  although  we 
put  the  sick  men  on  shore.  Encamped  on  the  north 
side.  About  eleven  at  night  a  tremendous  thunder- 
storm arose,  and  it  continued  to  blow  and  rain,  with 
thunder  and  lightning,  until  day.     Distance  15  miles. 

*'  July  igth.  In  consequence  of  the  rain  we  did  not 
put  off  until  past  nine  o'clock;  my  sick  men  marched.  I 
had  some  reason  to  suspect  that  one  of  them  intended 
never  to  join  us  again.  At  dinner  time  the  sick  man  of 
my  own  boat  came  on  board ;  I  then  went  on  board  the 
other,  and  we  continued  to  run  races  all  day.  Although 
this  boat  had  hitherto  kept  behind,  yet  I  arrived  at  the 
encamping  ground  with  her  nearly  half  an  hour  before 
the  other.  The  current  not  generally  so  strong  as 
below. 

"Sunday,  July  20th.  Embarked  about  sunrise. 
Wishing  to  ascertain  the  temperature  of  the  water,  I 
discovered  my  large  thermometer  to  be  missing,  which 
probably  had  fallen  into  the  river.  Passed  one  settle- 
ment on  the  north  side,  and,  after  turning  the  point  to 
the  south,  saw  two  more  houses  on  the  south  side.  We 
encamped  in  a  long  reach  which  bore  north  and  west. 
The  absentees  had  not  yet  joined  us.  Distance  15 
miles. 

"July  2ist.  It  commenced  raining  near  day,  and 
continued  until  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon;  the    rain 


-J      o 


The  Arkansas  Journey  141 

was  immensely  heavy,  with  thunder  and  lightning  re- 
markably severe.  This  obliged  me  to  lie  by;  for,  if 
we  proceeded  with  our  boats,  it  necessarily  exposed  our 
baggage  much  more  than  when  at  rest,  as  the  tarpaulin 
could  then  cover  all.  We  set  sail  at  a  quarter  past 
four  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the  village  of  La  Charette  at 
a  little  after  the  dusk  of  the  evening.  Here  we  found 
Lieut.  Wilkinson  and  Dr.  Robinson  with  the  Indians; 
also  Baroney,  our  interpreter,  with  letters  from  the 
general  and  our  friends.  The  weather  still  continued 
cloudy  with  rain.  We  were  received  in  the  house  of 
Dr.  Chartron,  and  every  accommodation  in  his  power 
was  offered  to  us.     Distance  six  miles." 

At  La  Charette  the  party  halted  several  days  in  order 
to  dry  their  baggage  and  corn.  Pike  took  occasion 
here  to  write  back  to  his  general,  from  which  we  learn 
that  the  baggage  of  the  Indians  containing  the  presents 
they  had  brought  with  them  from  Washington  had  been 
unduly  detained  and  he  questions  if  *' many  white  men 
would  have  borne  their  loss  with  more  philosophy  than 
our  young  savages."  Meanwhile,  as  a  recompense  he 
gave  to  one  a  gun  and  a  soldier's  coat  to  each  of  the 
others.  He  also  advises  the  general  of  Kennerman's 
desertion  and  urges  that  he  be  advertised  for  and  when 
caught  tried.  Referring  to  possible  trouble  when  he 
comes  near  the  Spanish  possessions,  where  the  bound- 
aries were  not  definitely  determined  he  writes  with 
youthful  enthusiasm,  for  which  he  begs  pardon  of  his 
commander. 

"However,  unless  they  give  us  ample  assurances  of 


142  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

just  and  honorable  treatment,  according  to  the  custom 
of  nations  in  Hke  cases,  I  would  resist,  even  if  the  ine- 
quality was  as  great  as  at  the  affair  of  Bender,  or  the 
streights  of  Thermopylae. 

''July  23^.  I  dispatched  an  express  to  the  general, 
with  advertisements  relative  to  Kennerman,  the  soldier 
who  had  deserted.  We  embarked  after  breakfast,  and 
made  good  progress.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  steered 
one  boat  and  I  the  other,  in  order  to  detach  all  the  men 
on  shore,  with  the  Indians,  that  we  could  spare.  We 
crossed  to  the  south  side,  a  little  below  Shepherd  river. 
Dr.  Robinson  killed  a  deer,  which  was  the  first  killed  by 
the  party.     Distance  13  miles. 

''July  2^h,  We  embarked  at  half  past  six  o'clock. 
Very  foggy.  The  Indians  accompanied  by  only  three 
of  my  people.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  being  a  little  in- 
disposed, I  was  obliged  to  let  Baroney  steer  his  boat. 
We  made  an  excellent  day's  journey  and  encamped 
five  miles  from  the  Gasconade  river.  Killed  three  deer, 
one  bear,  and  three  turkeys.  But  three  or  four  of  the 
Indians  arrived;  the  others  encamped  a  small  distance 
below. 

"July  zyh.  We  embarked  at  half  past  six  o'clock, 
and  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gasconade  river  at 
half  past  eight  o'clock,  at  which  place  I  determined  to 
remain  the  day,  as  my  Indians  and  foot  people  were  still 
in  the  rear,  and  they  had  complained  to  me  of  being 
without  shoes,  leggings,  etc.     Distance  five  miles. 

"One  of  our  Pawnees  did  not  arrive  until  late;  the 
other  had  communicated  his  suspicions  to  me  that  the 


The  Arkansas  Journey  143 

Oto,  who  was  in  company,  had  killed  him:  he  acknowl- 
edged that  he  proposed  to  take  out  their  baggage  and 
return  to  St.  Louis.  The  real  occasion  of  his  absence, 
however,  was  his  having  followed  a  large  fresh  trace  up 
the  Gasconade  a  considerable  distance;  but  finding  it  led 
from  the  Missouri  he  examined  it  and  discovered  horses 
to  have  been  on  it;  he  then  left  it  and  joined  ours,  and 
came  in.  This  being  the  route  generally  taken  by  the 
Pottawatomies,  when  they  go  to  war  against  the  Osage, 
it  occasioned  some  alarm.  Every  morning  we  were 
awakened  by  the  mourning  of  the  savages,  who  com- 
menced crying  about  daylight,  and  continued  for  the 
space  of  an  hour.  I  made  inquiry  of  my  interpreter 
with  respect  to  this,  who  informed  me  that  this  was  a 
custom  not  only  with  those  who  had  recently  lost  their 
relatives,  but  also  with  others  who  recalled  to  mind  the 
loss  of  some  friend,  dead  long  since,  and  joined  the 
other  mourners  purely  from  sympathy.  They  appeared 
extremely  affected;  tears  ran  down  their  cheeks,  and 
they  sobbed  bitterly;  but  in  a  moment  they  dry  their 
cheeks  and  cease  their  cries.  Their  songs  of  grief  gen- 
erally run  thus :  '  My  dear  father  exists  no  longer;  have 
pity  on  me,  O  Great  Spirit!  you  see  I  cry  forever;  dry 
my  tears  and  give  me  comfort.'  The  warriors'  songs 
are  thus:  'Our  enemies  have  slain  my  father  (or 
mother);  he  is  lost  to  me  and  his  family;  I  pray  to  you, 
O  Master  of  Life!  to  preserve  me  until  I  avenge  his 
death,  and  then  do  with  me  as  thou  pleaseth.' 

''July  26th.     We  commenced  at  five  o'clock  to  ferry 
the  Indians  over  the  Gasconade,  and  left  the  entrance 


144  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

of  this  river  at  half  past  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
Met  five  Frenchmen,  who  informed  us  that  they  had 
just  left  the  Osage  river,  and  that  it  was  so  low  they 
could  not  ascend  it  with  their  canoe.  We  wrote  letters 
and  sent  them  back  by  them.  Dr.  Robinson,  Baroney, 
Sparks,  and  all  the  Indians  encamped  about  one  league 
above  us.  Killed  one  bear,  two  deer,  one  otter,  three 
turkeys,  and  one  raccoon. 

'^Sunday,  July  2'jth.  We  embarked  at  half  past  five 
o'clock  and  arrived  at  the  Indians'  camp  at  seven  o'clock. 
They  had  been  alarmed  the  day  before,  and  in  the 
evening  sent  men  back  in  the  trace,  and  some  of  the 
chiefs  sat  up  all  night.  Breakfasted  with  them.  About 
three  o'clock  encamped  in  sight  of  the  Osage  river. 
There  being  every  appearance  of  rain,  we  halted  early 
in  order  to  give  the  Indians  time  to  prepare  temporary 
camps,  and  to  secure  our  baggage.  I  went  out  to  hunt, 
and  firing  at  a  deer,  near  two  of  the  Indians  who  were 
in  the  wood,  they  knew  the  difference  of  the  report  of 
my  rifle  from  their  guns,  and  were  alarmed,  and  im- 
mediately retired  to  camp. 

"July  zSth.  Embarked  at  half  past  five  o'clock,  and 
at  half  past  ten  arrived  at  the  Osage  river,  where  we 
stopped,  discharged  our  guns,  bathed,  etc.  We  then 
proceeded  on  about  six  miles,  where  we  waited  for  and 
crossed  the  Indians  to  the  west  shore;  we  then  proceeded 
on  to  the  first  island,  and  encamped  on  the  west  side. 
Sans  Oreille  and  only  four  or  five  young  men  coming 
up,  the  rest  encamping  some  distance  behind.  Killed 
one  deer  and  one  turkey.     Distance  19  miles. 


The  Arkansas  Journey  145 

^^ July  2gth.  All  the  Indians  arrived  very  early. 
Big  Soldier,  whom  I  had  appointed  the  officer  to  regu- 
late the  march,  was  much  displeased  that  Sans  Oreille 
and  the  others  had  left  him,  and  said  for  that  reason  he 
would  not  suffer  any  woman  to  go  in  the  boat  and  by 
that  means  separate  the  party;  but  in  truth  it  was  from 
jealousy  of  the  men  whose  women  went  in  the  boats. 
He  began  by  flogging  one  of  the  young  men  and  was 
about  to  strike  Sans  Oreille's  wife,  but  was  stopped  by 
him  and  told  that  he  knew  he  had  done  wrong,  but  that 
the  women  were  innocent.  We  then  crossed  them  and 
embarked  at  half  past  eight  o'clock.  About  twelve 
o'clock  we  found  the  Indians  rafting  the  river,  when  the 
first  chief  of  the  Little  Osage,  called  Tuttasuggy,  or 
Wind,  told  me  that  the  man  whom  Big  Soldier  struck 
had  not  yet  arrived  with  his  wife,  *but  that  he  would 
throw  them  away.'  As  I  knew  he  was  extremely  mor- 
tified at  the  dissensions  which  appeared  to  reign  amongst 
them,  I  told  him  by  no  means  [to  do  so];  that  one  of  my 
boats  should  wait  for  the  woman  and  her  child,  but  that 
the  man  might  go  to  the  devil,  as  a  punishment  for  his 
insubordination. 

"I  then  left  Baroney  with  one  boat,  and  proceeded 
with  the  other.  We  were  called  ashore  by  three  young 
Indians,  who  had  killed  some  deer;  and,  on  putting 
them  on  board,  gave  them  about  one  or  two  gills  of 
whisky,  which  intoxicated  all  of  them.  It  commenced 
raining  about  one  o'clock,  and  continued  incessantly 
for  three  hours,  which  obliged  us  to  stop  and  encamp. 
One  of  our  men,  Miller,  lost  himself,  and  did  not  arrive 


146  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

until  after  dark.  Killed  five  deer,  one  turkey,  and  one 
raccoon.     Distance  14  miles. 

''July  -T^oth.  After  the  fog  dispersed  I  left  Lieuten- 
ant Wilkinson  with  the  party  to  dry  the  baggage,  and 
went  with  Dr.  Robinson  and  Bradley.  About  two 
o'clock  we  returned,  set  sail,  and  having  passed  the  first 
rapid  about  three  miles,  encamped  on  the  eastern  shore. 
Killed  three  deer.     Distance  five  miles. 

**  July  3ijf.  We  embarked  early  and  passed  several 
rapids  very  well.  Dined  with  the  Indians.  Two  of 
them  left  us  in  the  morning  for  the  village,  and  they  all 
had  an  idea  of  doing  the  same,  but  finally  concluded 
otherwise.  One  of  the  Osages,  who  had  left  the  party 
for  the  village,  returned  and  reported  that  he  had  seen 
and  heard  strange  Indians  in  the  woods.  This  we  con- 
sidered merely  a  pretext  to  come  back.  I  this  day  lost 
my  dog,  and  the  misfortune  was  the  greater,  as  we  had 
no  other  dog  which  would  bring  anything  out  of  the 
water.  This  was  the  dog  Fisher  had  presented  to  me  at 
Prairie  des  Cheins.  Killed  three  deer  and  one  turkey. 
Distance  18  miles. 

''Aug.  1st,  It  rained  all  night,  the  river  appeared 
to  have  risen  about  six  inches.  We  spread  out  our 
baggage  to  dry,  but  it  continuing  to  rain  all  day,  the 
things  were  wetter  at  sundown  than  in  the  morning. 
We  rolled  them  up  and  left  them  on  the  beach.  We 
sent  out  two  hunters  in  the  morning,  one  of  whom 
killed  three  deer;  all  the  Indians  killed  three  more. 

''Sunday,  Aug.  3^.  Embarked  early,  and  wishing 
to  save  the  fresh,  I  pushed  hard  all  day.     Sparks  was 


The  Arkansas  Journey  147 

lost,  and  did  not  arrive  until  night.  We  encamped 
about  25  paces  from  the  river,  on  a  sand-bar.  Near 
day  I  heard  the  sentry  observe  that  the  boats  had  better 
be  brought  in;  I  got  up  and  found  the  water  within  a 
rod  of  our  tent,  and  before  we  could  get  all  our  things 
out  it  had  reached  the  tent.  Killed  nine  deer,  one  wild- 
cat, one  goose,  and  one  turkey.     Distance  18  miles. 

''Aug.  \th.  We  embarked  early  and  continued  on 
for  some  time,  not  being  able  to  find  a  suitable  place 
to  dry  our  things,  but  at  length  stopped  on  the  east 
shore.  Here  we  had  to  ferry  the  Indians  over  a  small 
channel  which  we  did  not  before  observe;  all  of  them, 
however,  not  arriving,  we  put  off  and  continued  our 
route.  Finding  our  progress  much  impeded  by  our 
mast,  I  unshipped  it  and  stripped  it  of  its  iron,  and, 
after  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  had  carved  our  names  on 
it,  set  it  adrift,  followed  by  the  yards.  This  mast  had 
been  cut  and  made  at  [our  wintering  post  on]  Pine 
creek.  Upper  Mississippi.  After  proceeding  some  miles, 
we  found  the  Indians  on  the  west  shore,  they  having 
rafted  the  river.  We  stopped  for  them  to  cook,  after 
which  we  proceeded.  The  navigation  had  become  very 
difficult  from  the  rapidity  of  the  current,  occasioned  by 
the  rise  of  the  water,  which  rose  one  foot  an  hour. 
Killed  two  deer.     Rainy.     Distance  10  miles. 

''Aug.  ^th.  We  lay  by  this  day,  in  order  to  give  the 
Indians  an  opportunity  to  dry  their  baggage.  Dr. 
Robinson  and  myself,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Henry, 
went  out  to  hunt.  After  hunting  some  time,  we  lost 
the  latter,  two  miles  from  camp.     After  hunting  some 


148  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

time  on  the  west  shore,  we  concluded  to  raft  the  river, 
which  we  effected  with  difficulty  and  danger,  and 
hunted  for  some  time,  but  without  success.  We  then  re- 
turned to  the  party  and  found  that  Mr.  Henry,  who  had 
been  lost  returned  one  hour  before  us;  he  had  met  one 
of  the  soldiers,  who  had  brought  him  in. 

"To-day  in  our  tour  I  passed  over  a  remarkably 
large  rattlesnake,  as  he  lay  curled  up,  and  trod  so  near 
him  as  to  touch  him  with  my  foot,  he  drawing  himself 
up  to  make  room  for  my  heel.  Dr.  Robinson  who 
followed  me,  was  on  the  point  of  treading  on  him,  but 
by  a  spring  avoided  it.  I  then  turned  round  and 
touched  him  with  my  ramrod,  but  he  showed  no  dis- 
position to  bite,  and  appeared  quite  peaceable.  The 
gratitude  I  felt  toward  him  for  not  having  bitten  me 
induced  me  to  save  his  life.  Killed  four  deer.  River 
rises  13  inches.     Rain  continuous." 

Being  advised  by  the  Indians  that  the  marching 
party  could  make  a  short  cut  from  river  to  river  Pike 
consented  and  accompanied  by  the  doctor,  Henry  and 
Balhnger  they  set  off.  Not  being  delayed  by  the  Indians 
the  boat  party  made  good  speed,  and  Pike  employed 
himself  in  the  intervals  of  charting  the  river,  in  turning 
the  speech  of  General  Wilkinson  which  was  to  be  made 
to  Cheveux  Blancs  into  French  for  the  benefit  of  the 
interpreter.  They  were  now  coming  into  the  region  of 
beautiful  scenery,  and  Pike  notes  the  fine  cliffs  of  the 
river.  The  second  day  after  the  boat  came  up  with  the 
land  party  which  had  killed  seven  deer  and  three  bears. 
After  dining  with  the  Indians  the  entire  party  moved  on. 


The  Arkansas  Journey  149 

leaving  Sparks  who  had  not  returned  from  hunting. 
The  next  morning  Sans  Oreille  and  his  wife  caught  up 
with  the  boat  and  reported  Sparks  with  the  Indians. 
The  rain  was  still  merciless,  and  in  the  meantime  a 
plank  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat  having  split  the  river 
party  had  to  stop  for  repairs.  Later  Pike  caught  up 
with  the  Indians  and  the  whole  company  camped  on  a 
sand  bar. 

''Aug.  nth.  We  continued  here  to  dry  our  corn  and 
baggage.  This  morning  we  had  a  match  at  shooting. 
The  prize  offered  to  the  successful  person  was  a  jacket 
and  a  twist  of  tobacco,  which  I  myself  was  so  fortunate 
as  to  win;  I  made  the  articles,  however,  a  present  to 
the  young  fellow  who  waited  on  me.  After  this,  taking 
Huddleston  with  me,  I  went  out  to  hunt;  after  travel- 
ing about  12  miles  we  arrived  at  the  river,  almost  ex- 
hausted with  thirst.  I  here  indulged  myself  by  drink- 
ing plentifully  of  the  water,  and  was  rendered  so 
extremely  unwell  by  it  that  I  was  scarcely  capable  of 
pursuing  my  route  to  the  camp.  On  arriving  opposite 
it,  I  swam  the  river,  from  which  I  experienced  consider- 
able relief.  The  party  informed  me  they  had  found  the 
heat  very  oppressive,  and  the  mercury,  at  sundown, 
was  at  25^  Reaumer.  This  day,  for  the  first  time,  I  saw 
trout  west  of  the  Allegheny  mountains.  Reloaded  our 
boats  and  finished  two  new  oars,  which  were  requisite. 

^^ Aug.  i2th.  Previously  to  our  embarkation,  which 
took  place  at  half  past  five  o'clock,  I  was  obliged  to 
convince  my  red  brethren  that,  if  I  protected  them,  I 
would  not  suffer  them  to  plunder  my  men  with  impunity; 


150  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

for  the  chief  had  got  one  of  my  lad's  tin  cups  attached  to 
his  baggage,  and,  notwithstanding  it  was  marked  with 
the  initials  of  the  soldier's  name,  he  refused  to  give  it 
up.  On  which  I  requested  the  interpreter  to  tell  him, 
"that  I  had  no  idea  that  he  had  purloined  the  cup,  but 
supposed  some  other  person  had  attached  it  to  his 
baggage;  but,  that  knowing  it  to  be  my  soldier's  I  re- 
quested him  to  deliver  it  up,  or  I  should  be  obliged  to 
take  other  measures  to  obtain  it.  This  had  the  desired 
effect  for  I  should  have  certainly  put  my  threats  into 
execution,  from  this  principle,  formed  from  my  ex- 
perience during  my  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  that 
if  you  have  justice  on  your  side,  and  do  not  enforce  it, 
they  usually  despise  you.  When  we  stopped  for  dinner, 
one  of  my  men  took  his  gun  and  went  out;  not  having 
returned  when  we  were  ready  to  re-embark,  I  left  him. 
Passed  the  Indians  twice  when  we  were  crossing  the 
river.  Passed  some  very  beautiful  cliffs  on  the  W. 
shore;  also  Vermillion  and  Grand  rivers,  the  latter  of 
which  is  a  large  stream,  and  encamped  at  the  first  bend 
above  it  on  the  E.  or  left  hand  bank  of  the  Osage.  Dis- 
tance 24  miles. 

"  Immediately  after  our  encampment  a  thunder  storm 
came  on,  which  blew  overboard  my  flag-staff  and  a 
number  of  articles  of  my  clothing,  which  were  on  top  of 
the  cabin,  and  sunk  them  immediately.  Being  much 
fatigued  and  the  bank  difficult  of  ascent,  lay  down  in 
the  cabin  without  supper  and  slept  all  night.  It  con- 
tinued to  rain.  The  man  I  left  on  shore  arrived  on  the 
opposite  bank  in  the  night,  having  killed  two  deer,  but 


The  Arkansas  Journey  151 

was  obliged  to  leave  the  largest  behind.  Finding  he 
was  not  to  be  sent  for,  he  concealed  his  gun  and  deer, 
and  swam  the  river. 

"Aug.  13/A.  It  continued  to  rain.  In  the  morning 
sent  a  boat  over  for  Sparks'  gun  and  deer.  Embarked 
at  half  past  nine  o'clock.  Stopped  to  dine  at  two 
o'clock.  During  the  time  we  halted,  the  river  rose  over 
the  flat  bar  on  which  we  were;  this,  if  we  had  no  other 
proof,  would  convince  us  we  were  near  the  head  of  the 
river,  as  the  rain  must  have  reached  it.  We  made  almost 
a  perfect  circle,  so  that  I  do  not  believe  we  were  to-night 
three  miles  from  where  we  encamped  last  night.  This 
day,  for  the  first  time,  we  have  prairie  hills.  Distance 
13  miles. 

''Aug.  i^th.  Embarked  at  half  past  five  o'clock. 
Passed  the  Park,  which  is  10  miles  around,  and  not 
more  than  three-quarters  of  a  mile  across,  bearing  from 
S.  5°  E.  to  due  N.  At  its  head  we  breakfasted,  and  just 
as  we  were  about  to  put  off  we  saw  and  brought-to  a 
canoe  manned  with  three  engagees  of  Mr.  Chouteau, 
who  informed  us  that  the  Httle  Osage  had  marched  a 
party  against  the  Kansas,  and  the  Grand  Osage,  a  party 
against  our  citizens  on  the  Arkansaw  river.  Wrote  by 
them  to  the  general  and  all  friends.  Gave  the  poor  fel- 
lows some  whiskey  and  eight  quarts  of  corn,  they  hav- 
ing had  only  two  turkeys  in  four  days.  We  left  them 
and  proceeded,  passing  on  the  east  some  of  the  largest 
cedars  I  ever  saw.  Came  on  very  well  in  the  afternoon 
and  encamped  on  an  island  above  Turkey  island.  Dis- 
tance 28  miles. 


152  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

'^ Aug.  lyh.  We  embarked  about  five  o'clock,  and 
at  eight  o'clock  met  the  Indians  and  the  gentlemen  who 
accompanied  them.  Found  all  well.  They  had  been 
joined  by  their  friends  and  relatives  from  the  village 
with  horses  to  transport  their  baggage.  Lieutenant 
Wilkinson  informed  me  that  their  meeting  was  very 
tender  and  affectionate — "wives  throwing  themselves 
into  the  arms  of  their  husbands,  parents  embracing  their 
children,  and  children  their  parents,  brothers  and 
sisters  meeting,  one  from  captivity,  the  others  from 
the  towns;  they  at  the  same  time  returning  thanks  to 
the  Good  God  for  having  brought  them  once  more  to- 
gether"— in  short,  the  tout  ensemble  was  such  as  to 
make  polished  society  blush,  when  compared  with  those 
savages,  in  whom  the  passions  of  the  mind,  whether 
joy,  grief,  fear,  anger,  or  revenge,  have  their  full  scope. 
Why  can  we  not  correct  the  baneful  passions,  without 
weakening  the  good  \  Sans  Oreille  made  them  a  speech, 
in  which  he  remarked :  *  Osage,  you  now  see  your  wives, 
your  brothers,  your  daughters,  your  sons,  redeemed 
from  captivity.  Who  did  this  ?  Was  it  the  Spaniards  ^ 
No.  The  French }  No.  Had  either  of  those  people 
been  governors  of  the  country,  your  relatives  might 
have  rotted  in  captivity,  and  you  never  would  have  seen 
them;  but  the  Americans  stretched  forth  their  hands, 
and  they  are  returned  to  you !  What  can  you  do  in  re- 
turn for  all  this  goodness  ?  Nothing;  all  your  lives 
would  not  suffice  to  repay  their  goodness.'  This  man 
had  children  in  captivity,  not  one  of  whom  we  were 
able  to  obtain  for  him. 


The  Arkansas  Journey  153 

"The  chief  then  requested  that  Lieutenant  Wilkinson 
and  Dr.  Robinson  might  be  permitted  to  accompany 
them  by  land,  to  which  I  consented.  Wrote  a  letter 
to  Cheveux  Blancs,  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson.  When 
we  parted,  after  delivering  the  Indians  their  baggage, 
Sans  Oreille  put  an  Indian  on  board  to  hunt,  or  obey 
any  other  commands  I  might  have  for  him.  We 
stopped  at  eleven  o'clock  to  dry  our  baggage.  Found 
our  biscuit  and  crackers  almost  all  ruined.  Put  off  at 
half  past  four  o'clock,  and  encamped  at  three-quarters 
past  five  o'clock.     Distance  15 J  miles. 

''Aug.  i6th.  We  embarked  at  five  o'clock  and  came 
on  extremely  well  in  the  barge  to  an  evacuated  French 
hunting  camp  12  miles  to  breakfast,  the  batteaux  com- 
ing up  late.  We  exchanged  hands.  About  twelve 
o'clock  we  passed  the  Grand  Fork,  which  is  equal  in 
size  to  the  one  on  which  we  pursued  our  route.  We 
waited  to  dine  at  the  rocks  called  the  Swallow's  Nest, 
on  the  W.  shore,  above  the  forks.  The  batteaux  hav- 
ing gained  nearly  a  half  an  hour,  the  crews  are  con- 
vinced that  it  is  not  the  boat  but  the  men  that  make 
the  difference;  each  take  their  own  boat,  after  which  we 
proceeded  very  well,  the  water  being  good  and  the  men 
in  spirits.  Saw  an  elk  on  the  shore;  also  met  an  old 
man  alone  hunting,  from  whom  we  obtained  no  infor- 
mation of  consequence.  Encamped  on  the  W.  shore 
of  the  Mine  river.     Distance  37  miles. 

"We  to-day  passed  the  place  where  the  chief  called 
Belle  Oiseau,  and  others,  were  killed.  The  Belle 
Oiseau  was  killed  by  the  Sacs  in  the  year  1804,  in  a 


154  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

boat  of  Manuel  de  Liza,  when  on  his  way  down  to  St. 
Louis,  in  order  to  join  the  first  deputation  of  his  nation 
who  were  forwarded  to  the  seat  of  government  by  Gov- 
ernor Lewis.  A  particular  relation  of  the  event,  no 
doubt,  has  been  given  by  that  gentleman.  This  chief 
had  a  son  who  accompanied  me  to  the  Pawnee  nation, 
and  whose  honorable  deportment,  attachment  to  our 
government,  amiableness  of  disposition,  and  the  re- 
spect and  esteem  in  which  he  was  held  by  his  compeers, 
entitle  him  to  the  attention  of  our  agents  to  his  nation. 

*' Sunday,  Aug.  lyth.  We  embarked  at  five  o'clock 
and  came  12  miles  to  breakfast.  At  four  o'clock  ar- 
rived at  10  French  houses  on  the  E.  shore,  where  was 
then  residing  a  Sac,  who  was  married  to  an  Osage 
femme  and  spoke  French  only.  We  afterward  passed 
the  position  where  Mr.  Chouteau  formerly  had  his  fort 
not  a  vestige  of  which  was  remaining,  the  spot  being 
only  marked  by  the  superior  growth  of  vegetation. 
Here  the  river  bank  is  one  solid  bed  of  stone-coal,  just 
below  which  is  a  very  shoal  and  rapid  ripple,  whence  to 
the  village  of  the  Grand  Osage  is  nine  miles  across  a 
large  prairie.  We  came  about  two  miles  above  and 
encamped  on  the  W.  shore.  This  day  the  river  has 
been  generally  bounded  by  prairies  on  both  sides. 
Distance  41I  miles. 

''Aug.  iSth.  We  put  off  at  half  past  five  o'clock. 
Stopped  at  nine  o'clock  for  breakfast.  Passed  the 
second  fork  of  the  river  at  twelve  o'clock,  the  right- 
hand  fork  bearing  N.,  about  30  yards  wide;  the  left, 
the  one  which  we  pursued,  and  not  more  than  50  or  60 


The  Arkansas  Journey  155 

feet  in  width,  very  full  of  old  trees,  etc.,  but  with  plenty 
of  water.  Observed  the  road  where  the  chiefs  and 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson  crossed.  We  proceeded  until 
one  o'clock,  when  we  were  halted  by  a  large  drift  quite 
across  the  river.  Dispatched  Baroney  to  the  village 
of  the  Grand  Osage,  to  procure  horses  to  take  our  bag- 
gage nearer  to  the  towns,  and  unloaded  our  boats. 
In  about  two  hours  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  with  Tut- 
tasuggy,  arrived  at  our  camp,  the  former  of  whom  pre- 
sented me  an  express  from  the  general  and  letters  from 
my  friends.  The  chiefs  remained  at  our  camp  all  night. 
T  was  attacked  by  a  violent  headache.  It  commenced 
raining,  and  continued  with  great  force  until  day.  Dis- 
tance iqJ  miles." 

This  letter  from  General  Wilkinson  is  of  more  im- 
portance than  the  diary  intimates.  He  was  at  St.  Louis 
and  fully  advised  of  the  details  of  the  march.  The 
Osages  were  under  the  protection  of  the  government, 
and  he  urges  against  the  threats  of  the  Pott^watomies 
that  a  chain  of  scouts  be  posted  along  the  Missouri, 
although  he  doubts  an  attack  will  be  made  until  the 
"falling  of  the  leaves,"  expressing  himself  Indian  fash- 
ion. As  for  Pike  himself,  while  showing  the  paternal 
regard  of  the  government  for  the  Osage  nations,  he 
must  avoid  conflict  with  the  other  tribes.  Concerning 
Manuel  de  Liza,  who  will  be  recalled  as  arresting  the 
interpreter  on  a  pretext  at  the  beginning  of  the  ex- 
pedition, the  general  learns  he  is  planning  to  estabhsh 
clandestine  commerce  with  the  Spanish  at  Santa  Fe. 
His  scheme  was  to  deposit  his  goods  within  a  few  days' 


156  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

march  of  Santa  Fe,  then  personally  visit  the  Spanish 
governor  and  tell  him  how  he  has  suffered  by  the  change 
in  authority  and  by  exciting  his  compassion  dispose 
of  the  goods.  Pike  was  charged  "to  take  all  prudent 
and  lawful  means  to  blow  it  up" — that  is  to  say,  de 
Liza's  schemes.  Pike  had  his  own  affair  with  de  Liza, 
whom  he  found  exciting  the  Osages  to  attack  the  Kan- 
sas villages.  Indeed,  we  are  to  hear  much  of  de  Liza, 
among  the  first  of  intriguing  Indian  traders. 

Still  more  important,  in  view  of  the  future  develop- 
ments revealed  in  the  conspiracy  of  Aaron  Burr,  and 
in  which  Wilkinson  is  so  deeply  involved,  is  the  follow- 
ing paragraph  from  the  letter  concerning  Pike's  own 
conduct: 

"In  regard  to  your  approximation  to  the  Spanish  set- 
tlements, should  your  route  lead  you  near  them,  or 
should  you  fall  in  with  any  of  their  parties,  your  con- 
duct must  be  marked  by  such  discretion  and  circum- 
spection as  may  prevent  alarm  or  conflict,  as  you  will 
be  held  responsible  for  the  consequences."  Later  he 
adds:  "Should  fortune  favor  you  on  your  present  ex- 
cursion, your  importance  to  your  country  will,  I  think, 
make  your  future  Hfe  comfortable."  The  letter  con- 
cludes with  the  latest  European  news  concerning  the 
failure  of  Napoleon's  plans  in  the  West  Indies,  and, 
what  must  have  been  more  eagerly  received  by  the  ex- 
plorer, news  from  his  family.  Pike  was  now  to  remain 
some  days  among  the  Osages,  having  to  represent  the 
commander-in-chief  in  his  diplomatic  dealings  with 
Chief  White  Hair.     In  his  later  report  Pike  gives  the 


The  Arkansas  Journey  157 

following  attractive  account  of  the  country  and  these 
villages: 

"The  country  round  the  Osage  villages  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  the  eye  ever  beheld.  The  three  branches 
of  the  river,  viz. :  the  large  east  fork,  the  middle  one,  up 
which  we  ascended,  and  the  northern  one,  all  winding 
round  and  past  the  villages,  giving  the  advantages  of 
wood  and  water,  and  at  the  same  time  the  extensive 
prairies  crowned  with  rich  and  luxuriant  grass  and 
flowers,  gently  diversified  by  the  rising  swells  and  sloping 
lawns,  present  to  the  warm  imagination  the  future  seats 
of  husbandry,  the  numerous  herds  of  domestic  animals, 
which  are  no  doubt  destined  to  crown  with  joy  those 
happy  plains." 

This  happy  prophecy  has  been,  as  we  all  know,  long 
since  fulfilled. 

'^ Aug.  igth.  We  commenced  early  to  arrange  our 
baggage  but  had  not  finished  at  one  o'clock,  when  the 
chief  of  the  Grand  Osage,  and  40  or  50  men  of  his 
village,  arrived  with  horses.  We  loaded  and  took  our 
departure  for  the  place  where  Manuel  de  Liza  had  his 
establishment,  at  which  we  arrived  about  four  o'clock, 
and  commenced  pitching  our  encampment  near  the 
edge  of  the  prairie,  when  I  was  informed  that  three 
men  had  arrived  from  St.  Louis  sent  by  Manuel  de 
Liza.  I  dispatched  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  to  the  village 
with  Baroney,  who  brought  to  camp  the  man  who  had 
charge  of  the  others  from  St.  Louis;  he  having  no  pass- 
port, I  detained  him  until  further  consideration.  Our 
reception  by  the  Osage  was  flattering,  and  particularly 


158  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

by  White  Hair  and  our  fellow- travelers.  This  evening 
there  arrived  in  the  village  of  the  Grand  Osage  an  ex- 
press from  the  Arkansav^,  who  brought  the  news  that  a 
boat,  ascending  that  river,  had  been  fired  on,  had  two 
white  men  killed  and  two  wounded,  and  that  the 
brother-in-law  of  Cheveux  Blancs,  who  happened  to 
be  on  board,  was  also  killed.  This  put  the  whole  vil- 
lage in  mourning. 

"Aug.  20th.  About  twelve  o'clock  I  dispatched 
Baroney  for  the  chiefs  of  the  Grand  village,  in  order  to 
give  the  general's  parole  to  Cheveux  Blancs;  also,  a 
young  man  to  the  village  of  the  Little  Osage.  Cheveux 
Blancs  and  his  people  arrived  about  three  o'clock,  and 
after  waiting  some  time  for  Wind  and  his  people,  I  just 
informed  the  chiefs  that  I  had  merely  assembled  them 
to  deliver  the  parole  of  the  general  and  present  the 
marks  of  distinction  intended  for  Cheveux  Blancs  and 
his  son — hanging  a  grand  medal  round  the  neck  of  the 
latter.  The  packets  committed  to  my  charge  for  the 
relations  of  the  deceased  Osages  were  then  delivered  to 
them,  the  widow  making  the  distribution.  It  must 
be  remarked  that  I  had  merely  requested  Cheveux 
Blancs  to  come  with  his  son,  and  receive  the  general's 
message;  but  instead  of  coming  with  a  few  chiefs,  he 
was  accompanied  by  186  men,  to  all  of  whom  we  were 
obliged  to  give  something  to  drink.  When  the  council 
was  over  we  mounted  our  horses,  rode  to  the  village, 
and  halted  at  the  quarters  of  the  chief,  where  we  were 
regaled  with  boiled  pumpkins;  then  we  went  to  two 
different  houses,    and   were   invited   to   many   others. 


The  Arkansas  Journey  159 

but  declined,  promising  that  I  would  pay  them  a  visit 
previous  to  my  departure,  and  spend  the  v^hole  day. 
We  then  returned  to  camp.  After  inquiring  of  White 
Hair  if  the  men  of  Manuel  de  Liza  had  any  ostensible 
object,  he  informed  me  that  they  only  said  to  him  that 
they  expected  Manuel  would  be  up  to  trade  in  the 
autumn.  I  concluded  to  take  the  deposition  of  Baptiste 
Larme  as  to  the  manner  in  which  he  was  employed  by 
Manuel  de  Liza,  forward  the  same  to  Dr.  Brown  and 
the  Attorney  General  of  Louisiana,  and  permit  the  men 
to  return  to  St.  Louis,  as  it  was  impossible  for  me  to 
detach  a  party  with  them  as  prisoners. 

''Aug.  zist.  In  the  morning  White  Hair  paid  us  a 
visit,  and  brought  us  a  present  of  corn,  meat  and  grease; 
we  invited  him,  his  son,  and  son-in-law  to  breakfast 
with  us,  and  gave  his  companions  something  to  eat. 
I  then  wrote  a  number  of  letters  to  send  by  express, 
and  inclosed  the  deposition  of  Larme.  In  the  afternoon 
we  rode  to  the  village  of  the  Little  Osage,  and  were  re- 
ceived by  our  fellow-travelers  with  true  hospitality. 
Returned  in  the  evening,  when  a  tremendous  storm  of 
rain,  thunder,  and  lightning  commenced,  and  continued 
with  extraordinary  violence  until  half  past  nine  o'clock. 
It  was  with  great  difficulty  we  were  enabled  to  keep  our 
tents  from  blowing  down.  The  place  prepared  for  an 
observatory  was  carried  away. 

''Aug.  22(1.  Preparing  in  the  morning  for  the  coun- 
cil, and  committing  to  paper  the  heads  of  the  subject 
on  which  I  intended  to  speak.  The  chiefs  of  the  Little 
Osage  arrived  about  one  o'clock,  also  the  interpreter  of 


i6o  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

the  Grand  Osage,  who  pretended  to  say  that  the  Grand 
Osage  had  expected  us  at  their  village  with  the  Little 
Osage.  Cheveux  Blancs  arrived  with  his  chiefs.  The 
ceremony  of  the  council  being  arranged,  I  delivered 
them  the  general's  parole,  forwarded  by  express.  My 
reason  for  not  delivering  it  until  this  time  was  in  order 
to  have  the  two  villages  together,  as  it  was  equally  in- 
teresting to  both.  After  this  I  explained  at  large  the 
will,  wishes,  and  advice  of  their  Great  Father,  and  the 
mode  which  I  conceived  most  applicable  to  carry  them 
into  effect.  Cheveux  Blancs  replied  in  a  few  words, 
and  promised  to  give  me  a  full  reply  to-morrow.  Wind 
replied  to  the  same  amount;  after  which  Cheveux 
Blancs  addressed  himself  to  Wind  as  follows:  *I  am 
shocked  at  your  conduct,  Tuttasuggy — ^you  who  have 
lately  come  from  the  States,  and  should  have  been  wise; 
but  you  led  the  redeemed  captives,  with  an  officer  of 
the  United  States,  to  your  village,  instead  of  bringing 
them  through  my  town  in  the  first  instance.'  To  this 
Wind  made  no  reply,  but  left  his  seat  shortly  after, 
under  pretense  of  giving  some  orders  to  his  young  men. 
I  conceived  this  reprimand  intended  barely  to  show  us 
the  superiority  of  the  one  and  inferiority  of  the  other; 
it  originated,  in  my  opinion,  from  an  altercation  of 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  Cheveux  Blancs,  in  which 
allusions  were  made  by  the  former  to  the  friendly  con- 
duct of  the  Little  Chief,  alias  Wind,  when  compared  to 
that  of  the  latter.  I  must  here  observe  that  when  the 
chiefs  and  prisoners  left  me,  accompanied  by  Lieuten- 
ant Wilkinson,  I  did  not  know  the  geographical  situation 


The  Arkansas  Journey  i6i 

of  the  two  villages,  but  conceived  that,  in  going  to  the 
Little  Village,  they  would  pass  by  the  Grand  Village, 
and,  of  course,  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  the  chief 
would  arrange  the  affair. 

''Aug.  23r^.  I  expected  to  have  received  from  the 
chiefs  their  answers  to  my  demands;  but  received  an 
express  from  both  villages,  informing  me  that  they 
wished  to  put  them  off  until  to-morrow.  I  then  ad- 
justed my  instruments.  Took  equal  altitudes  and  a 
meridianal  altitude  of  the  sun;  but  owing  to  flying 
clouds,  missed  the  immersions  of  Jupiter's  satellites. 

''Sunday,  Aug.  2^th.  Was  nearly  half  the  day  in 
adjusting  the  line  of  coHimation  in  the  telescopic  sights 
of  my  theodolite.  It  began  to  cloud  before  evening, 
and  although  the  sky  was  not  entirely  covered,  I  was 
so  unfortunate  as  to  miss  the  time  of  immersion,  and 
although  clear  in  the  immediate  period,  an  emersion 
also.  I  was  informed  by  Baroney  that  the  Little  Vil- 
lage had  made  up  ii  horses  for  us.  In  the  evening, 
however,  the  interpreter  accompanied  by  the  son-in-law 
and  son  of  Cheveux  Blancs,  came  to  camp,  and  in- 
formed me  that  there  were  no  horses  to  be  got  in  the 
village  of  the  Big  Osage. 

"The  son-in-law  spoke  as  follows:  *I  am  come  to 
give  you  the  news  of  our  village,  which  is  unfortunate 
for  us,  our  chief  having  assembled  his  young  men  and 
warriors  and  proposed  to  them  to  furnish  horses,  etc. 
They  have  generally  refused  him;  but  I,  who  am  the 
principal  man  after  Cheveux  Blancs,  will  accompany 
you.'     The  son:     'Our  young  men  and  warriors  will 


1 62  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

not  take  pity  on  my  father,  nor  on  me,  nor  on  you,  and 
have  refused  to  comply  with  your  request;  but  I  will 
accompany  you  with  two  horses  to  carry  provision 
for  your  voyage.'  The  interpreter:  'The  Cheveux 
Blancs  was  ashamed  to  bring  you  this  answer,  but 
will  again  assemble  his  village  and  to-morrow  come  and 
give  you  the  answer.'  I  replied  that  I  had  made  the 
demand  without  explanation,  merely  to  let  the  Osage 
act  agreeably  to  their  inclination,  in  order  that  we 
might  see  what  disposition  they  would  exhibit  toward 
us;  but  why  do  I  ask  of  their  chiefs  to  follow  me  to  the 
Pawnees  ^  Is  it  for  our  good,  or  their  own  ?  Is  it  not 
to  make  peace  with  the  Kans  ^  To  put  their  wives 
and  children  out  of  danger  ?  As  to  their  horses  which 
they  may  furnish  us  with,  I  will  pay  them  for  their  hire; 
but  it  is  uncertain  whether  I  can  pay  them  here,  or  give 
them  an  order  on  the  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs 
at  St.  Louis;  but  this  I  do  not  now  wish  them  to  be 
made  acquainted  with. 

*^  Aug.  2^th.  In  the  morning  we  were  visited  by 
Cheveux  Blancs  and  three  or  four  of  his  chiefs,  who 
were  pleased  to  accord  to  my  demands.  He  found 
much  difficulty  in  informing  me  that  in  all  his  village 
he  could  only  raise  four  horses,  but  that  we  should  be 
accompanied  by  his  son  and  son-in-law.  I  then  ex- 
pressed to  him  the  difference  of  our  expectations  from 
the  reality.  He  remained  until  after  twelve  o'clock, 
when  I  went  to  the  Little  Osage  village,  and  was  received 
with  great  friendship  by  the  chief.  Remained  all  night 
at  the  house  of  Tuttasuggy.     Took  the  census. 


The  Arkansas  Journey  163 

"Aug.  26th,  Rose  early  and  found  my  friends  in 
council,  which  was  merely  relative  to  our  horses.  The 
chief  then  declared  their  determination  to  me,  and  that 
he  himself  gave  me  one  horse,  and  lent  me  eight  more 
to  carry  our  baggage  to  the  Pawnees.  Sold  the  old  bat- 
teau  for  ;?ioo  in  merchandise,  which  I  conceived  infi- 
nitely preferable  to  leaving  her  to  the  uncertain  safe- 
guard of  the  Indians.  About  this  time  we  received  the 
news  that  the  party  of  the  Pottawatomies  were  discov- 
ered to  be  near  the  towns.  I  gave  them  the  best  advice 
I  was  capable  of  giving,  and  then  returned  to  our  camp." 

Pike  was  now  preparing  to  continue  his  journey  over- 
land. The  difficulty  of  getting  the  necessary  horses 
he  attributed  to  the  agent  of  the  mischievous  de  Liza, 
Labardie,  and  to  his  faithless  interpreter,  Maugraine, 
both  being  inspired  by  de  Liza  himself,  from  St.  Louis. 
In  a  letter  sent  at  the  time  to  his  general.  Pike  writes : 

"It  is  with  extreme  pain  that  I  keep  myself  cool 
amongst  the  difficulties  which  those  people  appear  to 
have  a  disposition  to  throw  in  my  way;  but  I  have  de- 
clared to  them  that  I  should  go  on,  even  if  I  collected 
our  tents  and  other  baggage  which  we  will  be  obliged  to 
leave  together,  and  burnt  them  on  the  spot." 

Meanwhile,  he  made  good  use  of  the  delay  in  study- 
ing the  peculiar  traits  of  the  Osages,  and  with  Dr. 
Robinson  attended  a  medicine  dance,  of  which  else- 
where he  writes: 

"Having  had  all  the  doctors  or  magicians  assembled 
in  the  lodge  of  Ca-ha-ga-tonga,  alias  Cheveux  Blancs, 
and  about  500  spectators,  they  had  two  rows  of  fires 


164  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

prepared,  around  which  the  sacred  band  was  stationed. 
They  commenced  the  tragi-comedy  by  putting  a  large 
butcher-knife  down  their  throats,  the  blood  appearing 
to  run  during  the  operation  very  naturally;  the  scene 
was  continued  by  putting  sticks  through  the  nose, 
swallowing  bones  and  taking  them  out  of  the  nostrils, 
etc.  At  length  one  fellow  demanded  of  me  what  I 
would  give  if  he  would  run  a  stick  through  his  tongue, 
and  let  another  person  cut  off  the  piece.  I  replied, 
*a  shirt.'  He  then  apparently  performed  his  promise, 
with  great  pain,  forcing  a  stick  through  his  tongue,  and 
then  giving  a  knife  to  a  by-stander,  who  appeared  to 
cut  off  the  piece,  which  he  held  to  the  light  for  the  satis- 
faction of  the  audience,  and  then  joined  it  to  his  tongue, 
and  by  a  magical  charm  healed  the  wound  immediately. 
On  demanding  of  me  what  I  thought  of  the  perform- 
ance, I  rephed  I  would  give  him  20  shirts  if  he  would 
let  me  cut  off  the  piece  from  his  tongue;  this  discon- 
certed him  a  great  deal,  and  I  was  sorry  I  had  made 
the  observation." 

The  Osage  nation  Pike  found  divided  into  four 
classes — warriors  and  hunters  and  cooks  and  doctors; 
the  doctors  exercising  also  the  offices  of  priests  and 
magicians.  Warriors  who  had  become  old  or  infirm,  or 
had  lost  their  families,  frequently  became  cooks,  adding 
to  their  duties  that  of  town  crier,  calling  the  chiefs  to 
council  and  to  feasts,  or  if  any  particular  person  was 
wanted  crying  his  name  through  the  village  and  inform- 
ing him  at  what  lodge  he  is  wanted.  Concerning  the 
etiquette  of  Osage  hospitality  he  tells  us: 


The  Arkansas  Journey  165 

"When  received  into  the  Osage  village  you  immedi- 
ately present  yourself  at  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  who  re- 
ceives you  as  his  guest,  where  you  generally  eat  first, 
after  the  old  patriarchal  style.  You  are  then  invited 
to  a  feast  by  all  the  great  men  of  the  village,  and  it 
would  be  a  great  insult  if  you  did  not  comply,  at  least 
so  far  as  to  taste  of  the  victuals.  In  one  instance  I  was 
obliged  to  taste  of  15  different  entertainments  the  same 
afternoon.  You  will  hear  cooks  crying,  *Come  and 
eat' — such  a  one  'gives  a  feast,  come  and  eat  of  his 
bounty.'  Their  dishes  were  generally  sweet  corn  boiled 
in  buffalo  grease,  or  boiled  meat  and  pumpkins;  but 
Sans  Oreille,  alias  Tetobasi,  treated  me  to  a  dish  of  tea 
in  a  wooded  dish,  with  new  horn  spoons,  boiled  meat 
and  crullers;  he  had  been  in  the  United  States.  Their 
towns  hold  more  people  in  the  same  space  of  ground 
than  any  places  I  ever  saw.  Their  lodges  are  posted 
with  scarcely  any  regularity,  each  one  building  in  the 
manner,  directions,  and  dimensions  which  suit  him 
best,  by  which  means  they  frequently  leave  room  only 
for  a  single  man  to  squeeze  in  between  them;  added 
to  this  they  have  pens  for  their  horses,  all  within  the 
village,  into  which  they  always  drive  them  at  night,  in 
case  they  think  there  is  any  reason  to  believe  there  is 
an  enemy  lurking  in  the  vicinity. 

"The  Osage  lodges  are  generally  constructed  with 
upright  posts  put  firmly  in  the  ground,  of  about  20  feet 
in  height,  with  a  crotch  at  the  top;  they  are  about  12 
feet  distant  from  each  other;  in  the  crotch  of  those  posts 
are  put  the  ridge-poles,  over  which  are  bent  small  poles. 


1 66  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

the  ends  of  which  are  brought  down  and  fastened  to  a 
row  of  stakes  about  five  feet  in  height;  these  stakes  are 
fastened  together  with  three  horizontal  bars,  and  form 
the  flank  walls  of  the  lodge.  The  gable  ends  are  gen- 
erally broad  slabs,  rounded  off  to  the  ridge-pole.  The 
whole  of  the  building  and  sides  are  covered  with  matting 
made  of  rushes,  two  or  three  feet  in  length  and  four  feet 
in  width,  which  are  joined  together,  and  entirely  exclude 
the  rain.  The  doors  are  on  the  sides  of  the  building, 
and  generally  are  one  on  each  side.  The  fires  are 
made  in  holes  in  the  center  of  the  lodge,  the  smoke  as- 
cending through  apertures  left  in  the  roof  for  the  pur- 
pose. At  one  end  of  the  dwelling  is  a  raised  platform, 
about  three  feet  from  the  ground,  which  is  covered  with 
bear-skins,  generally  holds  all  the  little  choice  furniture 
of  the  master,  and  on  which  repose  his  honorable  guests. 
In  fact,  with  neatness  and  a  pleasing  companion,  these 
dwellings  would  compose  a  very  comfortable  and  pleas- 
ant summer  habitation,  but  are  left  in  the  winter  for  the 
woods.     They  vary  in  length  from  36  to  100  feet." 

After  five  days'  delay  in  getting  horses,  and  making 
presents  to  the  Indians  for  their  hospitahty  and  present- 
ing the  village  with  a  flag.  Pike  took  up  the  march  again. 

''Sept.  1st.  Struck  our  tents  early  in  the  morning, 
and  commenced  loading  our  horses.  We  now  discov- 
ered an  Indian  had  stolen  a  large  black  horse  which 
Cheveux  Blancs  had  presented  to  Lieutenant  Wilkin- 
son. I  mounted  a  horse  to  pursue  him;  but  the  in- 
terpreter sent  to  town,  and  the  chief's  wife  sent  another 
in  its  place.     We  left  the  place  about  twelve  o'clock 


The  Arkansas  Journey  167 

with  15  loaded  horses,  our  party  consisting  of  two 
lieutenants,  one  doctor,  two  sergeants,  one  corporal,  15 
privates,  two  interpreters,  three  Pawnees,  and  four  chiefs 
of  the  Grand  Osage,  amounting  in  all  to  30  warriors 
and  one  woman.  We  crossed  the  Grand  Osage  fork 
and  a  prairie  N.  80°  W.  five  miles  to  the  fork  of  the 
Little  Osage.  Joined  by  Sans  Oreille  and  seven  Little 
Osage,  all  of  whom  I  equipped  for  the  march.  Dis- 
tance eight  miles. 

''Sept.  2d.  Marched  at  six  o'clock.  Halted  at  ten 
o'clock  and  two  o'clock  on  the  side  of  the  creek,  our 
route  having  been  all  the  time  on  its  borders.  Whilst 
there  I  was  informed  by  a  young  Indian  that  Mr.  C. 
Chouteau  had  arrived  at  the  towns.  I  conceived  it 
proper  for  me  to  return,  which  I  did,  accompanied  by 
Baroney,  first  to  the  Little  Village;  whence  we  were 
accompanied  by  Wind  to  the  Big  Village,  where  we  re- 
mained all  night  at  the  lodge  of  Cheveux  Blancs.  Mr. 
Chouteau  gave  us  all  the  news,  after  which  I  scrawled 
a  letter  to  the  general  and  my  friends. 

"Sept.  yd.  Rose  early  and  went  to  the  Little  Vil- 
lage to  breakfast.  After  giving  my  letters  to  Mr. 
Henry,  and  arranging  my  affairs,  we  proceeded  and 
overtook  our  party  at  two  o'clock.  They  had  left  their 
first  camp  about  four  miles.  Our  horses  being  much 
fatigued,  we  concluded  to  remain  all  night.  Sent  out 
our  red  and  white  hunters,  all  of  whom  only  killed  two 
turkeys.     Distance  four  miles. 

"Sept.  ^th.  When  about  to  march  in  the  morning 
one  of  our  horses  was  missing;  we  left  Sans  Oreille,  with 


1 68  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

the  two  Pawnees  to  search  for  him,  and  proceeded  until 
about  nine  o'clock;  stopped  until  twelve  o'clock,  and 
then  marched.  In  about  a  half  an  hour  I  was  over- 
taken and  informed  that  Sans  Oreille  had  not  been 
able  to  find  our  horse;  on  which  we  encamped,  and 
sent  two  horses  back  for  the  load.  One  of  the  Indians 
being  jealous  of  his  wife  sent  her  back  to  the  village. 
After  making  the  necessary  notes,  Dr.  Robinson  and 
myself  took  our  horses  and  followed  the  course  of  a 
little  stream  until  we  arrived  at  Grand  river,  which  was 
distant  about  six  miles.  Here  we  found  a  most  delight- 
ful basin  of  water,  of  25  paces  diameter  and  about  100 
in  circumference,  in  which  we  bathed;  found  it  deep 
and  delightfully  pleasant.  Nature  scarcely  ever  formed 
a  more  beautiful  place  for  a  farm.  We  returned  to 
camp  about  dusk,  when  I  was  informed  that  some  of  the 
Indians  had  been  dreaming  and  wished  to  return. 
Killed  one  deer,  one  turkey,  one  raccoon. 

^^  Sept.  yh.  In  the  morning  our  Little  Osage  all  came 
to  a  determination  to  return,  and,  much  to  my  sur- 
prise. Sans  Oreille  among  the  rest.  I  had  given  an 
order  on  the  chiefs  for  the  lost  horse  to  be  delivered  to 
Sans  Oreille's  wife,  previously  to  my  knowing  that  he 
was  going  back;  but  took  from  him  his  gun,  and  the 
guns  from  all  the  others  also. 

"In  about  five  miles  we  struck  a  beautiful  hill,  which 
bears  south  on  the  prairie;  its  elevation  I  suppose  to  be 
100  feet.  From  its  summit  the  view  is  sublime  to  the 
east  and  southeast.  We  waited  on  this  hill  to  breakfast, 
and  had  to  send  two  miles  for  water.     Killed  a  deer 


The  Arkansas  Journey  169 

on  the  rise,  which  was  soon  roasting  before  the  fire. 
Here  another  Indian  wished  to  return  and  take  his 
horse  with  him;  which,  as  we  had  so  few,  I  could  not 
allow,  for  he  had  already  received  a  gun  for  the  use  of 
his  horse.  I  told  him  he  might  return,  but  his  horse 
would  go  to  the  Pawnees. 

"We  marched,  leaving  the  Osage  trace,  which  we 
had  hitherto  followed,  and  crossed  the  hills  to  a  creek 
that  was  almost  dry.  Descended  it  to  the  main  river, 
where  we  dined.  The  discontented  Indian  came  up, 
and  put  on  an  air  of  satisfaction  and  content. 

"We  again  marched  about  six  miles  further,  and  en- 
camped at  the  head  of  a  small  creek,  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  water.     Distance  19  miles. 

''Sept.  6th,  We  marched  at  half  past  six  o'clock, 
and  arrived  at  a  large  fork  of  the  Little  Osage  river, 
where  we  breakfasted.  In  the  holes  of  the  creek  we 
discovered  many  fish,  which,  from  the  stripes  on  their 
bellies  and  their  spots,  I  supposed  to  be  trout  and  bass; 
they  were  12  inches  long.  This  brought  to  mind  the 
necessity  of  a  net,  which  would  have  frequently  afforded 
subsistence  to  the  whole  party.  We  halted  at  one 
o'clock  and  remained  until  four  o'clock.  Being  told 
that  we  could  not  arrive  at  any  water,  we  here  filled  our 
vessels.  At  five  o'clock  arrived  at  the  dividing  ridge, 
between  the  waters  of  the  Osage  and  the  Arkansaw,  alias 
White  river,  the  dry  branches  of  which  interlock  within 
20  yards  of  each  other.  The  prospect  from  the  divid- 
ing ridge  to  the  east  and  southeast  is  sublime.  The 
prairie  rising  and  faUing  in  regular  swells,  as  far  as  the 


170  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

sight  can  extend,  produces  a  very  beautiful  appearance. 
We  left  our  course,  and  struck  down  to  the  southwest 
on  a  small  creek,  or  rather  a  puddle  of  water.  Killed 
one  deer.     Distance  20  miles. 

"  Sunday,  Sept.  ^th.  We  left  this  at  half  past  six 
o'clock,  before  which  we  had  a  difficulty  with  the  son 
of  the  chief,  which  was  accommodated.  At  nine  o'clock 
we  came  on  a  large  fork  and  stopped  for  breakfast  and 
encamped  on  a  fine  stream,  where  we  swam  our  horses 
and  bathed  ourselves.  Killed  four  deer.  Distance  15 
miles. 

**Sept.  Sth.  Marched  early  and  arrived  at  a  grand 
fork  of  the  White  river.  The  Indians  are  all  discon- 
tented; we  had  taken  the  wrong  ford  ;  but,  as  they  were 
dispersed  through  the  wood,  we  could  not  be  governed 
by  their  movements.  Previously  to  our  leaving  camp, 
the  son  of  Cheveux  Blancs  proposed  returning,  offering 
no  other  reason  than  that  he  felt  too  lazy  to  perform  the 
route.  The  reason  I  offered  to  prevent  his  going  was 
ineffectual,  and  he  departed  with  his  hunter,  who  de- 
prived us  of  one  horse.  His  return  left  us  without  any 
chief  or  man  of  consideration,  except  the  son  of  Belle 
Oiseau,  who  was  but  a  lad.  The  former  appeared  to  be 
a  discontented  young  fellow,  filled  with  self-pride;  he 
certainly  should  have  considered  it  as  an  honor  to  be 
sent  on  so  respectable  an  embassy  as  he  was.  Another 
Indian,  who  owned  one  of  our  horses,  wished  to  return 
with  him,  which  was  positively  refused  him;  but  fear- 
ing he  might  steal  him,  I  contented  him  with  a  present. 
We  marched,  and  made  the  second  branch,  crossing 


The  Arkansas  Journey  171 

one  prairie  12  miles,  in  which  we  suffered  much  with 
drought.     Distance  22  miles." 

It  is  necessary  now  to  understand  something  of  the 
course  by  which  Pike  reached  the  "Pawnee  Republic" 
in  southern  Nebraska  whither  he  is  now  bound  and 
which  his  uncertainty  as  to  the  nomenclature  of  the 
country  makes  a  little  confusing.  The  Neosho  River, 
for  example,  he  sometimes  calls  the  Grand  River  and 
again  the  White  river.  The  latter  name  also  seems 
occasionally  to  refer  to  the  Arkansas  River.  He  is 
travelling  over  the  water-shed  of  the  Arkansas  into 
which  the  Verdigris  and  the  Neosho  Rivers  empty  their 
waters.  It  is  a  difficult  journey  over  dry  prairies,  nu- 
merous creeks — a  journey  whose  difficulties  are  varied 
only  by  the  hunting  of  the  buffalo,  deer,  turkeys,  and 
cabrie,  as  he  calls  the  antelope,  which  abounded  in  this 
country.  It  is  interesting  also  to  identify  Pike's  course 
by  means  of  the  thriving  and  prosperous  towns  that 
have  since  sprung  up  in  this  then  unknown  region. 

After  leaving  the  Osage  villages  on  the  border  be- 
tween Missouri  and  Kansas,  Pike  traversed  the  Little 
Osage  until  he  came  to  what  is  now  Xenia,  Kansas; 
and  from  thence  travelled  westward  crossing  the  Neosho 
near  the  present  town  of  lola.  Proceeding  now  north- 
west he  camped  near  Elco  on  the  head-waters  of  the  Ver- 
digris River.  From  thence  he  crossed  the  Cottonwood 
near  Cottonwood  Falls,  and  made  camp  near  the  present 
town  of  Marion  on  the  night  of  the  thirteenth  of  Sep- 
tember. He  then  marched  northward  and  crossed  the 
divide   near    Tampa,   when    proceeding   westerly   he 


172  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

crossed  Gypsum  Creek,  not  far  from  Gypsum  City, 
where  he  camped.  His  next  camp  was  near  Bridge- 
port, having  crossed  the  Smoky  Hill  River.  From 
thence  he  marched  northward  and  again  camped  within 
a  few  miles  of  the  city  of  Salina,  which  finishes  the  first 
section  of  Pike's  journey  to  the  Pawnees,  where,  as  he 
says,  he  expected  to  meet  some  of  that  tribe. 

** Sunday,  Sept.  i^th.  The  doctor  and  Frank,  a 
young  Pawnee,  marched  for  the  village  at  daylight;  we 
at  half  past  six  o'clock.  Halted  at  one  o'clock.  On 
the  march  we  were  continually  passing  through  large 
herds  of  buffalo,  elk,  and  cabrie;  and  I  have  no  doubt 
that  one  hunter  could  support  200  men.  I  prevented 
the  men  shooting  at  the  game,  not  merely  because  of 
the  scarcity  of  ammunition,  but,  as  I  conceived,  the 
laws  of  morality  forbid  it  also.  Encamped  at  sunset 
on  the  main  branch  of  White  river,  hitherto  called 
Grand  river.  Killed  one  buffalo  and  one  cabrie.  Dis- 
tance 21  miles. 

^^Sept,  lyh.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock;  passed  a 
very  large  Kans  encampment,  evacuated,  which  had 
been  occupied  last  summer.  Proceeded  on  to  the  divid- 
ing ridge  between  the  waters  of  White  river  and  the 
Kans.  This  ridge  was  covered  with  a  layer  of  stone, 
which  was  strongly  impregnated  with  iron  ore,  and  on 
the  W.  side  of  said  ridge  we  found  spa  springs.  Halted 
at  one  o'clock,  very  much  against  the  inclination  of  the 
Osage,  who,  from  the  running  of  the  buffalo,  conceived 
a  party  of  Kans  to  be  near.  Killed  two  buffalo.  Dis- 
tance 18  miles. 


The  Arkansas  Journey  173 

*^Sept.  i6th.  Marched  late,  and  in  about  4  miles'  dis- 
tance came  to  a  very  handsome  branch  of  water,  at 
which  we  stopped  and  remained  until  after  two  o'clock, 
when  we  marched  and  crossed  two  branches.  En- 
camped on  a  third.  At  the  second  creek,  a  horse  was 
discovered  on  the  prairie,  when  Baroney  went  in  pur- 
suit of  him  on  a  horse  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson's,  but 
arrived  at  our  camp  without  success.  Distance  13 
miles. 

**Sept.  iSth.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour,  and  at 
twelve  o'clock  halted  at  a  large  branch  of  the  Kans, 
which  was  strongly  impregnated  with  salt.  This  day 
we  expected  the  people  of  the  village  to  meet  us.  We 
marched  again  at  four  o'clock.  Our  route  being  over 
a  continued  series  of  hills  and  hollows,  we  were  until 
eight  o'clock  before  we  arrived  at  a  small  dry  branch. 
It  was  nearly  ten  o'clock  before  we  found  any  water. 
Commenced  raining  a  little  before  day.  Distance  25 
miles. 

''Sept.  igth.  It  having  commenced  raining  early, 
we  secured  our  baggage  and  pitched  our  tents.  The 
rain  continued  without  any  intermission  the  whole 
day,  during  which  we  employed  ourselves  in  reading  the 
Bible  and  Pope's  Essays,  and  in  pricking  on  our  arms 
with  India  ink  some  characters,  which  will  frequently 
bring  to  mind  our  forlorn  and  dreary  situation,  as  well 
as  the  happiest  days  of  our  life.  In  the  rear  of  our  en- 
campment was  a  hill,  on  which  there  was  a  large  rock, 
where  the  Indians  kept  a  continual  sentinel,  as  I  imagine 
to  apprise  them  of  the  approach  of  any  party,  friends 


174  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

or  foes,  as  well  as  to  see  if  they  could  discover  any  game 
on  the  prairies. 

** Sept.  20th.  It  appearing  as  if  we  possibly  might 
have  a  clear  day,  I  ordered  our  baggage  spread  abroad 
to  dry;  but  it  shortly  after  clouded  up  and  commenced 
raining.  The  Osage  sentinel  discovered  a  buffalo  on 
the  prairies;  upon  which  we  dispatched  a  hunter  on 
horseback  in  pursuit  of  him,  also  some  hunters  on  foot; 
before  night  they  killed  three  buffalo,  some  of  the  best 
of  which  we  brought  in  and  jerked  or  dried  by  the  fire. 
It  continued  showery  until  afternoon,  when  we  put  our 
baggage  again  in  a  position  to  dry,  and  remained  en- 
camped. The  detention  of  the  doctor  and  our  Pawnee 
ambassador  began  to  be  a  serious  matter  of  considera- 
tion. 

''Sunday,  Sept.  21  st.  We  marched  at  eight  o'clock, 
although  there  was  every  appearance  of  rain,  and  at 
eleven  o'clock  passed  a  large  creek,  remarkably  salt. 
Stopped  at  one  o'clock  on  a  fresh  branch  of  the  salt 
creek.  Our  interpreter  having  killed  an  elk,  we  sent 
out  for  some  meat,  which  detained  us  so  late  that  I 
concluded  it  best  to  encamp  where  we  were,  in  pref- 
erence to  running  the  risk  of  finding  no  water.  Dis- 
tance 10  miles. 

"Lieutenant  Wilkinson  was  attacked  with  a  severe 
headache  and  slight  fever.  One  of  my  men  had  been 
attacked  with  a  touch  of  the  pleurisy  on  the  i8th,  and 
was  still  ill.  We  were  informed  by  an  Osage  woman 
that  two  of  the  Indians  were  conspiring  to  desert  us  in 
the  night  and  steal  some  of  our  horses,  one  of  whom 


The  Arkansas  Journey  175 

was  her  husband.  We  engaged  her  as  our  spy.  Thus 
were  we  obliged  to  keep  ourselves  on  our  guard  against 
our  own  companions  and  fellow-travelers — men  of  a 
nation  highly  favored  by  the  United  States,  but  whom 
I  believe  to  be  a  faithless  set  of  poltrons,  incapable  of  a 
great  and  generous  action.  Among  them,  indeed,  there 
may  be  some  exceptions. 

"  In  the  evening,  finding  that  the  two  Indians  above 
mentioned  had  made  all  preparations  to  depart,  I  sent 
for  one  of  them,  who  owned  a  horse  and  had  received  a 
gun  and  other  property  for  his  hire,  and  told  him,  I 
knew  his  plans,  and  that  if  he  was  disposed  to  desert,  I 
should  take  care  to  retain  his  horse;  that  as  for  himself, 
he  might  leave  me  if  he  pleased,  as  I  only  wanted  men 
with  us.  He  replied  that  he  was  a  man,  that  he  always 
performed  his  promises,  that  he  had  never  said  he  would 
return;  but  that  he  would  follow  me  to  the  Pawnee 
village,  which  he  intended  to  do.  He  then  brought  his 
baggage  and  put  it  under  charge  of  the  sentinel,  and 
slept  by  my  fire;  but  notwithstanding  I  had  him  well 
watched. 

''Sept.  22d.  We  did  not  march  until  eight  o'clock, 
owing  to  the  indisposition  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson.  At 
eleven  waited  to  dine.  Light  mists  of  rain,  with  flying 
clouds.  We  marched  again  at  three  o'clock,  and  con- 
tinued our  route  12  miles  to  the  first  branch  of  the  Repub- 
lican Fork.  Met  a  Pawnee  hunter,  who  informed  us 
that  the  chief  had  left  the  village  the  day  after  the  doc- 
tor arrived,  with  50  or  60  horses  and  many  people,  and 
had  taken  his  course  to  the  north  of  our  route;   conse- 


176  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

quently  we  had  missed  each  other.  He  Hkewise  in- 
formed us  that  the  Tetaus  had  recently  killed  six  Paw- 
nees, the  Kans  had  stolen  some  horses,  and  a  party  of 
300  Spaniards  had  lately  been  as  far  as  the  Sabine;  but 
for  what  purpose  was  unknown.     Distance  11  miles. 

''Sept,  2'^rd.  Marched  early  and  passed  a  large  fork 
of  the  Kans  river  which  I  suppose  to  be  the  one  gener- 
ally called  Solomon's.  One  of  our  horses  fell  into  the 
water  and  wet  his  load.  Halted  at  ten  o'clock  on  a 
branch  of  this  fork.  We  marched  at  half  past  one 
o'clock,  and  encamped  at  sundown  on  a  stream,  where 
we  had  a  great  difficulty  to  find  water.  We  saw  some 
mules,  horses,  bridles,  and  blankets,  which  they  ob- 
tained from  the  Spainards.  Few  only  had  breech  cloth, 
most  being  wrapped  in  buffalo  robes,  otherwise  quite 
naked. 

''Sept.  25M.  We  marched  at  a  good  hour,  and  in 
about  eight  miles  struck  a  very  large  road  on  which  the 
Spanish  troops  had  returned,  and  on  which  we  could  yet 
discover  the  grass  beaten  down  in  the  direction  which 
they  went. 

"When  we  arrived  within  about  three  miles  of  the 
village,  we  were  requested  to  remain,  as  the  ceremony  of 
receiving  the  Osage  into  the  towns  was  to  be  performed 
here.  There  was  a  small  circular  spot,  clear  of  grass, 
before  which  the  Osage  sat  down.  We  were  a  small 
distance  in  advance  of  the  Indians.  The  Pawnees  then 
advanced  within  a  mile  of  us,  halted,  divided  into  two 
troops,  and  came  on  each  flank  at  full  charge,  making 
all  the  gestures  and  performing  the  maneuvers  of  a 


The  Arkansas  Journey  177 

real  war  charge.  They  then  encircled  us  around,  and 
the  chief  advanced  in  the  center  and  gave  us  his  hand; 
his  name  was  Characterish.  He  was  accompanied  by 
his  two  sons  and  a  chief  by  the  name  of  Iskatappe. 
The  Osage  were  still  seated;  but  Belle  Oiseau  then  rose, 
came  forward  with  a  pipe,  and  presented  it  to  the  chief, 
who  took  a  whiff  or  two  from  it.  We  then  proceeded; 
the  chief,  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  and  myself  in  front; 
my  sergeant,  on  a  white  horse,  next  with  the  colors;  then 
our  horses  and  baggage,  escorted  by  our  men,  with  the 
Pawnees  on  each  side,  running  races,  etc.  When  we 
arrived  on  the  hill  over  the  town  we  were  again  halted, 
and  the  Osage  seated  in  a  row;  when  each  Pawnee  who 
intended  so  to  do  presented  them  with  a  horse  and  gave 
a  pipe  to  smoke  to  the  Osage  to  whom  he  had  made  the 
present.  In  this  manner  were  eight  horses  given. 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson  then  proceeded  with  the  party 
to  the  river  above  the  town  and  encamped.  I  went  up 
to  our  camp  in  the  evening,  having  a  young  Pawnee 
with  me  loaded  with  corn  for  my  men.  Distance  12 
miles.  As  the  chief  had  invited  us  to  his  lodge  to  eat, 
we  thought  it  proper  for  one  to  go.  At  the  lodge  he 
gave  me  many  particulars  which  were  interesting  to  us 
relative  to  the  late  visit  of  the  Spaniards. 

"  I  will  attempt  to  give  some  memoranda  of  this  ex- 
pedition, which  was  the  most  important  ever  carried  on 
from  the  province  of  New  Mexico,  and  in  fact  the  only 
one  directed  N.  E.  to  the  Pawnees  (except  that  men- 
tioned by  the  Abbe  Reynal  in  his  History  of  the  Indies 
— of  which  see  a  more  particular  account  hereafter). 


178  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

In  the  year  1806  our  affairs  with  Spain  began  to  wear 
a  very  serious  aspect,  and  the  troops  of  the  two  govern- 
ments almost  came  to  actual  hostihties  on  the  frontiers 
of  Texas  and  the  Orleans  territory.  At  this  tiipe,  when 
matters  bore  every  appearance  of  coming  to  a  crisis,  I 
was  fitting  out  for  my  expedition  from  St.  Louis,  where 
some  of  the  Spanish  emissaries  in  that  country  trans- 
mitted the  news  of  it  to  Major  Merior  and  the  Spanish 
Council  at  that  place,  who  immediately  forwarded  the 
information  to  the  then  commandant  of  Nacodoches, 
Captain  Sebastian  Roderiques,  who  forwarded  it  to 
the  seat  of  government.  This  information  was  person- 
ally communicated  to  me,  as  an  instance  of  the  rapid 
means  they  possessed  of  transmitting  information  rel- 
ative to  the  occurrences  transacting  on  our  frontiers. 
The  expedition  was  then  determined  on,  and  had  three 
objects  in  view: 

"  1st.  To  descend  the  Red  river,  in  order,  if  he  met 
our  expedition,  to  intercept  and  turn  us  back;  or, 
should  Major  Sparks  and  Mr.  Freeman  have  missed 
the  party  from  Nacodoches,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Viana,  to  oblige  them  to  return  and  not  pene- 
trate further  into  the  country,  or  make  them  prisoners 
of  war. 

"2d.  To  explore  and  examine  all  the  internal  parts 
of  the  country  from  the  frontiers  of  the  province  of  New 
Mexico  to  the  Missouri  between  the  La  Platte  [sen- 
tence unfinished]. 

"3d.  To  visit  the  Tetaus,  Pawnees  republic.  Grand 
Pawnees,  Pawnee  Mahaws,  and  Kans.     To  the  head 


The  Arkansas  Journey  179 

chief  of  each  of  those  nations  the  commanding  officer 
bore  flags,  a  commission,  grand  medal,  and  four  mules; 
and  with  all  of  them  he  had  to  renew  the  chains  of 
ancient  amity  which  was  said  to  have  existed  between 
their  father,  his  most  Cathohc  majesty,  and  his  children 
the  red  people. 

"The  commanding  officers  also  bore  positive  orders 
to  oblige  all  parties  or  persons,  in  the  above-specified 
countries,  either  to  retire  from  them  into  the  acknowl- 
edged territories  of  the  United  States,  or  to  make  pris- 
oners of  them  and  conduct  them  into  the  province  of 
N.  Mexico.  Lieutenant  Don  Facundo  Malgares,  the 
officer  selected  from  the  five  internal  provinces  to  com- 
mand this  expedition,  was  a  European  (his  uncle  was 
one  of  the  royal  judges  in  the  kingdom  of  New  Spain), 
and  had  distinguished  himself  in  several  long  expeditions 
against  the  Apaches  and  other  Indian  nations  with 
whom  the  Spaniards  were  at  war;  added  to  these  cir- 
cumstances, he  was  a  man  of  immense  fortune,  and 
generous  in  its  disposal,  almost  to  profusion;  possessed 
a  liberal  education,  high  sense  of  honor,  and  a  dis- 
position formed  for  mihtary  enterprise.  This  officer 
marched  from  the  province  of  Biscay  with  100  dragoons 
of  the  regular  service,  and  at  Santa  Fe,  the  place  where 
the  expedition  was  fitted  out,  he  was  joined  by  500  of 
the  mounted  militia  of  that  province,  armed  after  the 
manner  described  by  my  notes  on  that  subject,  and  com- 
pletely equipped  with  ammunition,  etc.,  for  six  months; 
each  man  leading  with  them  (by  order)  two  horses  and 
one  mule,  the  whole  number  of  their  beasts  was  2,075. 


i8o  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

They  ascended  the  Red  river  233  leagues;  met  the 
grand  bands  of  the  Tetaus,  and  held  councils  with  them; 
then  struck  off  N.  E.,  and  crossed  the  country  to  the 
Arkansaw,  where  Lieutenant  Malgares  left  240  of  his 
men  with  the  lame  and  tired  horses,  while  he  proceeded 
on  with  the  rest  to  the  Pawnee  republic.  Here  he  was 
met  by  the  chiefs  and  warriors  of  the  Grand  Pawnees; 
held  councils  with  the  two  nations  and  presented  them 
the  flags,  medals,  etc.,  which  were  destined  for  them. 
He  did  not  proceed  to  the  execution  of  his  mission  with 
the  Pawnee  Mahaws  and  Kans,  as  he  represented  to 
me,  from  the  poverty  of  their  horses  and  the  discontent 
of  his  own  men;  but,  as  I  conceive,  from  the  suspicion 
and  discontent  which  began  to  arise  between  the 
Spaniards  and  the  Indians;  the  former  wished  to  revenge 
the  death  oi^  Villineuve  and  party,  while  the  latter  pos- 
sessed all  the  suspicions  of  conscious  villainy  deserv- 
ing punishment.  Malgares  took  with  him  all  the  traders 
he  found  there  from  our  country,  some  of  whom  having 
been  sent  from  Natchitoches,  were  in  abject  poverty  at 
that  place  on  my  arrival,  and  applied  to  me  for  means 
to  return  to  St.  Louis.  Lieutenant  Malgares  returned 
to  Santa  Fe  in  October,  when  his  militia  was  disbanded; 
but  he  remained  in  the  vicinity  of  that  place  until  we 
were  brought  in,  and  with  his  dragoons,  became  our 
escort  to  the  seat  of  Government." 

Pike  had  now  arrived  at  his  destination,  coming 
directly  north  from  Salina  and  crossing  the  Republican 
River  near  what  is  now  White  Rock.  The  diary  gives 
but  a  meagre  account  of  his  reception  by  the  Pawnees, 


/JUjC-    ^    -U^-^ 


FAC-SIMILE  OF  AUTOGRAPH  LETTER   FROM  GENERAL  PIKE  TO 
THE  HON.  HENRY   DEARBORNE,   SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 


The  Arkansas  Journey  i8i 

but  fortunately  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  has   elsewhere 
related  it  in  detail. 

"Early  on  the  morning  of  the  25th  we  were  joined 
by  a  few  more  savages  of  distinction,  headed  by  the 
brother  of  Characterish,  or  White  Wolf,  chief  of  the 
nation,  who  was  to  act  as  master  of  the  ceremonies  to 
our  formal  entry.  Preparatory  to  our  march,  we  had 
our  men  equipped  as  neatly  as  circumstances  would  ad- 
mit. About  mid-day  we  reached  the  summit  of  a 
lofty  chain  of  ridges,  where  we  were  requested  to  halt 
and  await  the  arrival  of  the  chief  who  was  half 
a  mile  from  us,  with  300  horsemen,  who  were  generally 
naked,  except  buffalo  robes  and  breech  cloths,  and 
painted  with  white,  yellow,  blue,  and  black  paint.  At 
the  word  of  the  chief  the  warriors  divided,  and,  push- 
ing on  at  full  speed,  flanked  us  on  the  right  and  left, 
yelling  in  a  most  diabolical  manner.  The  chief  ad- 
vanced in  front,  accompanied  by  Iskatappe,  or  Rich 
Man,  the  second  great  personage  of  the  village  and  his 
two  sons,  who  were  clothed  in  scarlet  cloth.  They  ap- 
proached slowly,  and  when  within  100  yards  the  three 
latter  halted;  Characterish  advanced  in  great  state, 
and  when  within  a  few  paces  of  us  streched  out  his  hand 
and  cried,  *Bon  jour  J*  Thus  ended  the  first  ceremony. 
We  moved  on  about  a  mile  further,  and  having  gained 
the  summit  of  a  considerable  hill,  we  discovered  the  vil- 
lage directly  at  its  base.  We  here  were  again  halted, 
and  the  few  Osages  who  accompanied  us  were  ordered 
in  front  and  seated  in  rank  entire.  The  chief  squatted 
on  his  hams  in  front  of  them  and  filled  a  calumet,  which 


1 82  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

several  different  Indians  took  from  him  and  handed  the 
Osages  to  smoke.  This  was  called  the  horse-smoke,  as 
each  person  who  took  the  pipe  from  the  chief  intended 
to  present  the  Osages  a  horse.  Mr.  Pike  and  Dr.  Rob- 
inson afterward  accompanied  the  chief  to  his  lodge,  and 
I  moved  on  with  the  detachment  and  formed  our  camp 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Republican  fork  of  the 
Kansas  river,  on  a  commanding  hill  which  had  been 
selected  as  the  most  favorable  situation  for  making 
observations,  though  very  inconvenient  on  account  of 
wood  and  water,  which  we  had  to  transport  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  mile. 

"At  a  council  held  some  few  days  after  our  arrival. 
Lieutenant  Pike  explained  to  them  the  difference  of 
their  present  situation  and  that  of  a  few  years  past; 
now  they  must  look  up  to  the  president  of  the  United 
States  as  their  great  father;  that  he  had  been  sent  by 
him  to  assure  them  of  his  good  wishes,  etc.;  that  he  per- 
ceived a  Spanish  flag  flying  at  the  council-lodge  door, 
and  was  anxious  to  exchange  one  of  their  great  father's 
for  it;  and  that  it  was  our  intention  to  proceed  further 
to  the  westward,  to  examine  this,  our  newly  acquired 
country.  To  this  a  singular  and  extraordinary  re- 
sponse was  given — in  fact,  an  objection,  started  in  direct 
opposition  to  our  proceeding  further  west;  however, 
they  gave  up  the  Spanish  flag,  and  we  had  the  pleasure 
to  see  the  American  standard  hoisted  in  its  stead." 

Pike's  diary  again  takes  up  the  daily  march. 

*'Sept,  26th.  Finding  our  encampment  not  eligible 
as  to  situation,  we  moved  down  on  to  the  prairie  hill. 


The  Arkansas  Journey  183 

about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  nearer  the  village.  We 
sent  our  interpreter  to  town  to  trade  for  provisions. 
About  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  12  Kans  arrived 
at  the  village,  and  informed  Baroney  that  they  had  come 
to  meet  us,  hearing  that  we  were  to  be  at  the  Pawnees 
village.  We  pitched  our  camp  upon  a  beautiful  emi- 
nence, whence  we  had  a  view  of  the  town  and  all  that 
was  transacting.  In  the  evening  Baroney,  with  the 
chief,  came  to  camp  to  give  us  the  news,  and  returned 
together. 

''Sept.  2jth.  Baroney  arrived  from  the  village  about 
one  o'clock,  with  Characterish,  whose  commission  from 
the  Governor  of  New  Mexico  was  dated  Santa  Fe,  June 
15th,  1806,  and  three  other  chiefs,  to  all  of  whom  I  gave 
a  dinner.  I  then  made  an  appropriate  present  to  each, 
after  which  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  myself  accom- 
panied them  to  town,  where  we  remained  a  few  hours, 
and  returned.  Appointed  to-morrow  for  the  interview 
with  the  Kans  and  Osage. 

''Sunday  Sept.  2Sth.  Held  a  council  of  the  Kans  and 
Osage,  and  made  them  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace.  Two 
of  the  Kans  agreed  to  accompany  us.  We  received  a 
visit  from  the  chief  of  the  village.  Made  an  observation 
on  an  emersion  of  one  of  Jupiter's  satellites. 

"Sept.  2gth.  Held  our  grand  council  with  the 
Pawnees,  at  which  not  less  than  400  warriors  were 
present,  the  circumstances  of  which  were  extremely  in- 
teresting. The  notes  I  took  on  my  grand  council  held 
with  the  Pawnee  nation  were  seized  by  the  Spanish  gov- 
ernment, together  with  all  my  speeches  to  the  different 


1 84  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

nations.  But  it  may  be  interesting  to  observe  here,  in 
case  they  should  never  be  returned,  that  the  Spaniards 
had  left  several  of  their  flags  in  this  village,  one  of  which 
was  unfurled  at  the  chief's  door  the  day  of  the  grand 
council;  and  that  among  various  demands  and  charges 
I  gave  them  was,  that  the  said  flag  should  be  delivered 
to  me,  and  one  of  the  United  States'  flags  be  received 
and  hoisted  in  its  place.  This  probably  was  carrying 
the  pride  of  nations  a  little  too  far,  as  there  had  so  lately 
been  a  large  force  of  Spanish  cavalry  at  the  village 
which  had  made  a  great  impression  on  the  minds  of  the 
young  men,  as  to  their  power,  consequence,  etc.,  which 
my  appearance  with  20  infantry  was  by  no  means  calcu- 
lated to  remove. 

"After  the  chiefs  had  replied  to  various  parts  of  my 
discourse,  but  were  silent  as  to  the  flag,  I  again  reiterated 
the  demand  for  the  flag,  adding  that  it  was  impossible 
for  the  nation  to  have  two  fathers;  that  they  must  either 
be  the  children  of  the  Spaniards,  or  acknowledge  their 
American  father.  After  a  silence  of  some  time  an  old 
man  rose,  went  to  the  door,  took  down  the  Spanish  flag, 
brought  it  and  laid  it  at  my  feet;  he  then  received  the 
American  flag,  and  elevated  it  on  the  staff  which  had 
lately  borne  the  standard  of  his  Catholic  Majesty.  This 
gave  great  satisfaction  to  the  Osage  and  Kans,  both  of 
whom  decidedly  avow  themselves  to  be  under  American 
protection.  Perceiving  that  every  face  in  the  council 
was  clouded  with  sorrow,  as  if  some  great  national  ca- 
lamity were  about  to  befall  them,  I  took  up  the  con- 
tested colors,  and  told  them  that  as  they  had  shown 


The  Arkansas  Journey  185 

themselves  dutiful  children  in  acknowledging  their  great 
American  father,  I  did  not  wish  to  embarrass  them  with 
the  Spaniards,  for  it  was  the  wish  of  the  Americans  that 
their  red  brethren  should  remain  peaceably  around  their 
own  fires,  and  not  embroil  themselves  in  any  disputes 
between  the  white  people;  and  that  for  fear  the  Span- 
iards might  return  there  in  force  again,  I  returned  them 
their  flag  with  an  injunction  that  it  should  never  be 
hoisted  during  our  stay.  At  this  there  was  a  general 
shout  of  applause,  and  the  charge  was  particularly  at- 
tended to. 

^^  Sept.  i^oth.  Remained  all  day  in  camp,  but  sent 
Baroney  to  town,  who  informed  me  on  his  return  that  the 
chief  appeared  to  wish  to  throw  great  obstacles  in  our 
way.  A  great  disturbance  had  taken  place  in  the  vil- 
lage, owing  to  one  of  the  young  Pawnees,  Frank,  who 
had  lately  come  from  the  United  States,  having  taken 
the  wife  of  an  Osage  and  run  away  with  her.  The 
chief,  in  whose  lodge  the  Osage  put  up,  was  extremely 
enraged,  considering  it  a  breech  of  hospitaHty  to  a  per- 
son under  his  roof,  and  threatened  to  kill  Frank  if  he 
caught  him." 

This  date  concludes  the  chapter  from  the  diary.  But 
the  notes  on  the  Pawnees,  that  Pike  alludes  to  as  having 
been  taken  from  him  he  introduces  in  his  report,  and 
these  may  be  fitly  introduced  here  while  he  is  parleying 
with  the  Pawnee  chief,  who  was  still  plainly  under  the 
influence  of  the  Spaniards.  Pike  finds  the  Pawnees  tall, 
slim,  with  high  cheek-bones,  which  "clearly  indicate 
their  Asiatic  origin.     By  no  means  so  cleanly  as  the 


1 86  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Osage,  they  are  also  neither  so  brave  or  generous  as  the 
more  northern  tribes."  This  degeneracy  he  attributes 
to  the  ease  in  which  they  live  in  the  midst  of  a  country 
abounding  in  buffaloes.  Although  they  breed  superior 
horses,  they  always  go  to  war  on  foot  while  the  enemy 
is  mounted.  They,  however,  are  better  armed,  half  the 
warriors  having  fire-arms.  Like  the  Osage,  they  are 
agriculturists,  raising  corn  and  pumpkins  with  which 
they  thin  their  soup.  The  pumpkins  they  cut  into  thin 
slices,  which  they  dry  in  the  sun,  while  the  corn  they 
cache,  and  keep  sweet  until  spring. 

Their  houses  are  a  perfect  circle,  except  where  the 
door  enters,  whence  there  is  a  projection  of  about  fifteen 
feet;  the  whole  being  constructed  after  the  following 
manner:  "First  there  is  an  excavation  of  a  circular 
form  made  in  the  ground,  about  4  feet  deep,  and  60 
in  diameter,  where  there  is  a  row  of  posts  about  5  feet 
high,  with  crotches  at  the  top,  set  firmly  in  all  round, 
and  horizontal  poles  also  laid  from  one  to  another. 
There  then  is  a  row  of  posts,  forming  a  circle  about  10 
feet  in  height;  the  crotches  of  these  are  so  directed  that 
horizontal  poles  are  laid  also  from  one  to  another;  long 
poles  are  then  laid  slanting  upward  from  the  lower  poles 
over  the  higher  ones,  and  meeting  nearly  at  the  top, 
leaving  only  a  small  aperture  for  the  smoke  of  the  fire 
to  pass  out,  which  is  made  on  the  ground  in  the  middle 
of  the  lodge.  There  is  then  a  number  of  small  poles  put 
up  around  the  circle,  so  as  to  form  the  wall,  and  wicker- 
work  is  run  through  the  whole.  The  roof  is  then 
thatched  with  grass,  and  earth  is  thrown  up  against  the 


The  Arkansas  Journey  187 

wall  until  a  bank  is  made  to  the  eaves  of  the  thatch; 
that  is  also  filled  with  earth  one  or  two  feet  thick,  and 
rendered  so  tight  as  entirely  to  exclude  any  storm,  and 
make  the  houses  extremely  warm.  The  entrance  is 
about  six  feet  wide,  with  walls  on  each  side,  and  roofed 
like  our  houses  in  shape,  but  of  the  same  materials  as 
the  main  building.  Inside  there  are  numerous  Httle 
apartments  constructed  of  wicker- work  against  the  wall, 
with  small  doors;  they  have  a  great  appearance  of 
neatness,  and  in  them  the  members  of  the  family  sleep 
and  have  their  little  deposits.  Their  towns  are  by  no 
means  so  much  crowded  as  the  Osage,  giving  much  more 
space;  but  they  have  the  same  mode  of  introducing 
their  horses  into  the  village  at  night,  which  makes  it 
extremely  crowded.  They  keep  guards  with  the  horses 
during  the  day. 

"They  are  extremely  addicted  to  gaming,  and  have 
for  that  purpose  a  smooth  piece  of  ground  cleared  out 
on  each  side  of  the  village  for  about  150  yards  in  length, 
on  which  they  play  the  three  following  games:  One  is 
played  by  two  players  at  a  time,  and  in  the  following 
manner:  They  have  a  large  hoop  about  four  feet  in 
diameter,  in  the  center  of  which  is  a  small  leather  ring; 
this  is  attached  to  leather  thongs  which  are  extended  to 
the  hoop,  and  by  that  means  kept  in  its  central  position; 
they  also  have  a  pole  about  six  feet  in  length,  which  the 
player  holds  in  one  hand;  he  then  rolls  the  hoop  from 
him,  and  immediately  slides  the  pole  after  it;  and  the 
nearer  the  head  of  the  pole  lies  to  the  small  ring  within 
the  hoop,  when  they  both  fall,  the  greater  is  the  cast. 


1 88  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

But  I  could  not  ascertain  their  mode  of  counting  suffi- 
ciently to  decide  when  the  game  was  won.  Another 
game  is  played  with  a  small  stick,  with  several  hooks, 
and  a  hoop  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  which  is  rolled 
along  the  ground,  and  the  forked  stick  darted  after  it, 
the  value  of  the  cast  being  estimated  by  the  hook  on 
which  the  ring  is  caught.  This  game  is  gained  at  lOO. 
The  third  game  alluded  to  is  that  of  la  platte,  described 
by  various  travelers;  this  is  played  by  the  women, 
children,  and  old  men,  who  hke  grasshoppers  crawl  out 
to  the  circus  to  bask  in  the  sun,  probably  covered  only 
with  an  old  buffalo  robe." 


CHAPTER  V 

THROUGH  KANSAS  AND  COLORADO  TO 

PIKE'S  PEAK 

October  ist-November  30TH,  1806 

"  Wednesdayy  Oct,  1st,  Paid  a  visit  to  town  and  had  a 
very  long  conversation  with  the  chief,  who  urged  every- 
thing in  his  power  to  induce  us  to  turn  back.  Finally, 
he  very  candidly  told  us  that  the  Spaniards  wished  to 
have  gone  further  into  our  country,  but  he  induced 
them  to  give  up  the  idea;  that  they  had  listened  to  him 
and  he  wished  us  to  do  the  same;  that  he  had  promised 
the  Spaniards  to  act  as  he  now  did,  and  that  we  must 
proceed  no  further,  or  he  must  stop  us  by  force  of  arms. 
My  reply  was,  that  I  had  been  sent  out  by  our  great 
father  to  explore  the  western  country,  to  visit  all  his  red 
children,  to  make  peace  between  them,  and  turn  them 
from  shedding  blood;  that  he  might  see  how  I  had 
caused  the  Osage  and  Kans  to  meet  to  smoke  the  pipe 
of  peace  together,  and  take  each  other  by  the  hand  like 
brothers;  that  as  yet  my  road  had  been  smooth,  with  a 
blue  sky  over  our  heads.  I  had  not  seen  any  blood  in 
our  path;  but  he  must  know  that  the  young  warriors 
of  his  great  American  father  were  not  women,  to  be 
turned  back  by  words;  that  I  should  therefore  proceed, 

189 


190  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

and  if  he  thought  proper  to  stop  me,  he  could  attempt 
it;  but  we  were  men,  well  armed,  and  would  sell  our 
lives  at  a  dear  rate  to  his  nation;  that  we  knew  our 
great  father  would  send  his  young  warriors  there  to 
gather  our  bones  and  revenge  our  deaths  on  his  people, 
when  our  spirits  would  rejoice  in  hearing  our  exploits 
sung  in  the  war-songs  of  our  chiefs.  I  then  left  his 
lodge  and  returned  to  camp,  in  considerable  perturba- 
tion of  mind. 

''Oct.  2d.  We  received  advice  from  our  Kans  that 
the  chief  had  given  publicity  to  his  idea  of  stopping  us 
by  force  of  arms,  which  gave  serious  reflections  to  me, 
and  was  productive  of  many  singular  expressions  from 
my  brave  lads,  which  called  for  my  esteem  at  the  same 
time  that  they  excited  my  laughter.  Attempted  to 
trade  for  horses,  but  could  not  succeed.  In  the  night 
we  were  alarmed  by  some  savages  coming  near  our 
camp  at  full  speed;  but  they  retreated  equally  rapidly, 
on  being  hailed  with  fierceness  by  our  sentinels.  This 
created  some  degree  of  indignation  in  my  little  band, 
as  we  had  noticed  that  all  the  day  had  passed  without 
any  traders  presenting  themselves,  which  appeared  as 
if  all  intercourse  was  interdicted.  I  wrote  to  the  secre- 
tary of  war,  the  general  etc." 

These  letters  written  on  the  back  of  a  book,  seated  on 
the  ground,  contain  little  more  than  has  been  trans- 
cribed, beyond  Pike's  belief  that  the  conduct  of  the 
Pawnees  had  been  inspired  by  the  Spaniards,  and  that 
the  presents  of  a  double  barrelled  gun  to  each  of  the 
four  chiefs,  as  well  as  "gorgets" — that  is  to  say  orna- 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak        191 

mented  head-pieces — had  not  prevented  them  from 
throwing  every  obstacle  in  the  way  of  the  party's  fur- 
ther progress.  Meanwhile  the  arrival  of  two  French 
traders  brought  the  welcome  news  of  the  successful  re- 
turn of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  expedition  down  the  Mis- 
souri River.  The  buying  of  the  horses  necessary  for 
the  return,  and  the  journey  toward  the  Arkansas  River 
was  a  tortuous  bit  of  diplomacy,  but  at  length  success- 
ful, and  the  departure  from  the  Pawnee  republic  was  set 
for  the  next  day. 

"Oct.  Jth.  In  the  morning  we  found  two  of  our  newly 
purchased  horses  missing.  Sent  in  search  of  them; 
the  Indians  brought  in  one  pretty  early.  Struck  our 
tents  and  commenced  loading  our  horses.  Finding 
there  was  no  probabihty  of  our  obtaining  the  other  lost 
one,  we  marched  at  2  p.  m.;  and  as  the  chief  had 
threatened  to  stop  us  by  force  of  arms,  we  made  every 
arrangement  to  make  him  pay  as  dearly  for  the  attempt 
as  possible.  The  party  was  kept  compact,  and  marched 
by  a  road  round  the  village,  in  order  that,  if  attacked, 
the  savages  would  not  have  their  houses  to  fly  to  for 
cover.  I  had  given  orders  not  to  fire  until  within  five 
or  six  paces,  and  then  to  charge  with  the  bayonet  and 
saber,  when  I  believe  it  would  have  cost  them  at  least 
100  men  to  have  exterminated  us,  which  would  have 
been  necessary.  The  village  appeared  all  to  be  in  mo- 
tion. I  galloped  up  to  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  attended 
by  my  interpreter  and  one  soldier,  but  soon  saw  there 
was  no  serious  attempt  to  be  made,  although  many 
young  men  were  walking  about  with  their  bows,  arrows. 


192  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

guns,  and  lances.  After  speaking  to  the  chief  with 
apparent  indifference,  I  told  him  that  I  calculated  on  his 
justice  in  obtaining  the  horse,  and  that  I  should  leave 
a  man  until  the  next  day  at  twelve  o'clock  to  bring  him 
out.     We  then  joined  the  party  and  pursued  our  route. 

"When  I  was  once  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  which 
overlooks  the  village,  I  felt  my  mind  relieved  from  a 
heavy  burden;  yet  all  the  evil  I  wished  the  Pawnees 
was  that  I  might  be  the  instrument,  in  the  hands  of 
our  government,  to  open  their  ears  and  eyes  with  a  strong 
hand,  to  convince  them  of  our  power. 

"Our  party  now  consisted  of  two  officers,  one  doctor, 
18  soldiers,  one  interpreter,  three  Osage  men,  and  one 
woman,  making  25  warriors.  We  marched  out  and 
encamped  on  a  small  branch,  distant  seven  miles,  on 
the  same  route  we  came  in.     Rain  in  the  night. 

''Oct.  Sth.  I  conceived  it  best  to  send  Baroney  back 
to  the  village  with  a  present  to  be  offered  for  our  horse, 
the  chief  having  suggested  the  propriety  of  this  measure, 
and  he  met  his  son  and  the  horse  with  Sparks.  Marched 
at  ten  o'clock,  and  at  four  o'clock  came  to  this  place, 
where  the  Spanish  troops  encamped  the  first  night  they 
left  the  village.  Their  encampment  was  circular,  hav- 
ing only  small  fires  round  the  circle  to  cook  by.  We 
counted  59  fires;  now  if  we  allow  six  men  to  a  fire, 
they  must  have  been  354  in  number.  We  encamped 
on  a  large  branch  of  the  second  fork  of  the  Kans  river. 
Distance  18  miles. 

''Oct.  gth.  Marched  at  eight  o'clock,  being  detained 
until  that  time  by  our  horses  being  at  a  great  distance. 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak        193 

At  eleven  o'clock  we  found  the  forks  of  the  Spanish  and 
Pawnee  roads,  and  when  we  halted  at  twelve  o'clock, 
we  were  overtaken  by  the  second  chief,  Iskatappe,  and 
the  American  chief  with  one  third  of  the  village.  They 
presented  us  with  a  piece  of  bear  meat. 

"When  we  were  about  to  march  we  discovered  that 
the  dirk  of  the  doctor  had  been  stolen  from  behind  his 
saddle.  After  marching,  the  men,  the  doctor  and  my- 
self, with  the  interpreter  went  to  the  chief  and  demanded 
that  he  should  cause  a  search  to  be  made;  it  was  done, 
but  when  the  dirk  was  found,  the  possessor  asserted  that 
he  had  found  it  on  the  road.  I  told  him  that  he  did  not 
speak  the  truth,  and  informed  the  chief  that  we  never 
suffered  a  thing  of  ever  so  little  value  to  be  taken  without 
liberty.  At  this  time  the  prairie  was  covered  with  his 
men,  who  began  to  encircle  us  around,  and  Lieutenant 
Wilkinson  with  the  troops  had  gained  a  half  mile  on 
the  road.  The  Indian  demanded  a  knife  before  he 
would  give  it  up;  but  as  we  refused  to  give  any,  the 
chief  took  one  from  his  belt  and  gave  him  and  took  the 
dirk  and  presented  it  to  the  doctor,  who  immediately 
returned  it  to  the  chief  as  a  present,  desired  Baroney  to 
inform  him  it  was  not  the  value  of  the  article  but  the 
act  we  despised,  and  then  galloped  off. 

"  In  about  a  mile  we  discovered  a  herd  of  elk,  which 
we  pursued;  they  took  back  in  sight  of  the  Pawnees, 
who  immediately  mounted  50  or  60  young  men  and 
joined  in  the  pursuit.  Then,  for  the  first  time  in  my 
life,  I  saw  animals  slaughtered  by  the  true  savages 
with  their  original  weapons,  bows  and  arrows;    they 


194  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

buried  the  arrow  up  to  the  plume  in  the  animals.  We 
took  a  piece  of  meat  and  pursued  our  party;  we  over- 
took them  and  then  encamped  within  the  Grand,  or 
Solomon's  fork,  which  we  crossed  lower  down  on  the 
23rd  of  September,  on  our  route  to  the  Pawnees.  This 
was  the  Spanish  encamping  ground.    Distance  18  miles. 

"In  the  evening  two  Pawnees  came  to  our  camp, 
who  had  not  eaten  for  three  days,  two  of  which  they  had 
carried  a  sick  companion  whom  they  had  left  this  day; 
we  gave  them  for  supper  some  meat  and  corn,  and  they 
immediately  departed  in  order  to  carry  their  sick  com- 
panion this  seasonable  supply.  When  they  were  coming 
into  camp,  the  sentinel  challenged,  it  being  dark;  they 
immediately,  on  seeing  him  bring  his  piece  to  the  charge, 
supposing  he  was  about  to  fire  on  them,  advanced  to  give 
him  their  hands;  he,  however,  not  well  discerning  their 
motions,  was  on  the  point  of  firing;  but  being  a  cool, 
collected  little  fellow,  called  out  that  there  were  two 
Indians  advancing  on  him,  and  aske^  if  he  should  fire. 
This  brought  out  the  guard,  when  the  poor  affrighted 
savages  were  brought  into  camp,  very  much  alarmed, 
for  they  had  not  heard  of  a  white  man's  being  in  their 
country,  and  thought  they  were  entering  one  of  the 
camps  of  their  own  people. 

"Oc/.  loth.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock  and  halted  at 
twelve  o'clock  to  dine.  Were  overtaken  by  the  Pawnee 
chief  whose  party  we  left  the  day  before,  who  informed 
us  the  hunting-party  had  taken  another  road,  and  that 
he  had  come  to  bid  us  good-by.  We  left  a  large  ridge 
pn  our  left,  and  at  sundown  crossed  it.  ,  ,  ,  From  this 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak        195 

place  we  had  an  extensive  view  of  the  southwest;  we 
observed  a  creek  at  a  distance,  to  which  I  meant  to  pro- 
ceed. The  doctor,  interpreter,  and  myself  arrived,  at 
eight  o'clock  at  night;  found  water  and  wood,  but 
had  nothing  to  eat.  Kindled  a  fire  in  order  to  guide 
the  party;  but  they,  not  being  able  to  find  the  route  and 
not  knowing  the  distance,  encamped  on  the  prairie 
without  wood  or  water. 

"Oct.  nth.  Ordered  Baroney  to  return  to  find  the 
party  and  conduct  them  to  our  camp.  The  doctor  and 
myself  went  out  to  hunt,  and  on  our  return  found  all  our 
people  had  arrived,  except  the  rear-guard,  which  was 
in  sight.  Whilst  we  halted  five  Pawnees  came  to  our 
camp  and  brought  some  bones  of  a  horse  which  the 
Spanish  troops  had  been  obliged  to  eat  at  their  en- 
campment on  this  creek.  We  took  up  our  line  of  march 
at  twelve  o'clock,  and  at  sundown  the  party  halted  on 
the  Saline.  I  was  in  pursuit  of  buffalo,  and  did  not 
make  the  camp  until  near  ten  o'clock  at  night.  Killed 
one  buffalo.     Distance  12  miles. 

*^  Sunday,  Oct.  12th.  Here  Belle  Oiseau  and  one 
Osage  left  us,  and  there  remained  only  one  man  and 
woman  of  that  nation.  Their  reason  for  leaving  us  was 
that  our  course  bore  too  much  west,  and  they  desired 
to  bear  more  for  the  hunting-ground  of  the  Osage. 
In  the  morning  we  sent  out  to  obtain  the  buffalo  meat, 
and  laid  by  until  after  breakfast.  Proceeded  at  eleven 
o'clock;  and  crossing  the  [Grand  Saline]  river  two  or 
three  times,  we  passed  two  camps  where  the  Spanish 
troops  had  halted.     Here  they  appeared  to  have  re- 


196  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

mained  some  days,  their  roads  being  so  much  blended 
with  the  traces  of  the  buffalo  that  we  lost  them  entirely. 
This  was  a  mortifying  stroke,  as  we  had  reason  to  cal- 
culate that  they  had  good  guides,  and  were  on  the 
best  route  for  wood  and  water.  We  took  a  southwest 
direction,  and  before  night  were  fortunate  enough  to 
strike  their  roads  on  the  left;  and  at  dusk,  much  to  our 
surprise,  struck  the  east  fork  of  the  Kans,  or  La  Touche 
de  la  Cote  Bucanieus.  Killed  one  buffalo.  Distance 
18  miles. 

"Orf.  lyh.  The  day  being  rainy,  we  did  not  march 
until  two  o'clock;  when,  it  having  an  appearance  of 
clearing  off,  we  raised  camp  (and  crossed  the  Smoky 
Hill  river);  after  which  we  marched  seven  miles  and 
encamped  on  the  head  of  a  branch  of  the  river  we  had 
left.     Had  to  go  two  miles  for  water.     Killed  one  cabrie. 

*'Oct.  i^th.  It  having  drizzled  all  night,  and  the 
atmosphere  being  entirely  obscured,  we  did  not  march 
until  a  quarter  past  nine  o'clock,  and  commenced  cross- 
ing the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Kans  and  Arkan- 
saw  rivers.  Arrived  on  a  branch  of  the  latter  at  one 
o'clock;  continued  down  it  in  search  of  water,  until 
after  dusk,  when  we  found  a  pond  on  the  prairie,  which 
induced  us  to  halt.  Sparks  did  not  come  up,  being 
scarcely  able  to  walk  with  rheumatic  pains.  Wounded 
several  buffalo,  but  could  not  get  one  of  them.  Dis- 
tance 24  miles." 

It  is  time  now  to  trace  Pike's  march  from  the  Pawnee 
Republic  in  terms  of  modern  geography.  He  is  now 
journeying  to  the  southwest  toward  Colorado  in  search  of 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak        197 

the  headwaters  of  the  Arkansas  River.  He  recrossed  the 
Solomon  River  near  Beloit,  and  the  Saline  River  some- 
where near  Lincoln  in  Lincoln  county.  The  Smoky 
Hill  River  he  struck  in  Russell  county,  and  it  is  certain 
that  he  camped  near  the  towns  of  Forest  Hill  and  Du- 
buque. Journeying  more  directly  south  he  crossed  Cow 
Creek  near  the  town  of  Claflin.  He  is  now  on  the  old 
Santa  Fe  trail,  crossing  Walnut  Creek,  from  whence 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  mistaking  "the  distant  wood" 
Pike  pointed  out  for  a  camp,  while  he  and  Dr.  Robin- 
son sought  further  for  traces  of  the  Spanish  march,  pro- 
ceeded to  Great  Bend  where  he  camped  on  the  shore 
of  the  Arkansas. 

/"Of/,  i^th.  In  the  morning  rode  out  in  search  of 
the  South  trace,  and  crossed  the  low  prairie,  which 
was  nearly  covered  with  ponds,  but  could  not  discover 
it.  Finding  Sparks  did  not  arrive  sent  two  men  in 
search  of  him,  who  arrived  with  him  about  eleven 
o'clock.  At  twelve  o'clock  we  commenced  our  line  of 
march,  and  at  five  o'clock  Dr.  Robinson  and  myself, 
left  the  party  at  a  large  creek,  having  pointed  out  a  dis- 
tant wood  to  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  for  our  encamp- 
ment, in  order  to  search  some  distance  up  it  for  the 
Spanish  trace.  Killed  two  bufFalos  and  left  part  of  our 
clothing  with  them  to  scare  away  the  wolves.  Went  in 
pursuit  of  the  party.  On  our  arrival  at  the  creek  ap- 
pointed for  the  encampment,  did  not  find  them.  Pro- 
ceeded down  it  for  some  miles,  and  not  finding  them, 
encamped,  struck  fire,  and  then  supped  on  our  buffalo 
tongues. 


1 98  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"Orf.  i6th.  Early  on  horseback;  proceeded  up  the 
creek  some  distance  in  search  of  our  party,  but  at 
twelve  o'clock  crossed  to  our  two  buffaloes;  found  a 
great  many  wolves  at  them,  notwithstanding  the  pre- 
cautions taken  to  keep  them  off.  Cooked  some  marrow- 
bones and  again  mounted  our  horses,  and  proceeded 
down  the  creek  to  their  junction.  Finding  nothing  of 
the  party,  I  began  to  be  seriously  alarmed  for  their 
safety.  Killed  two  more  buffalo,  made  our  encamp- 
ment, and  feasted  sumptuously  on  the  marrow-bones. 
Rain  in  the  night. 

*'Oci.  ijih.  Rose  early,  determining  to  search  the 
creek  to  its  source.  Very  hard  rain,  accompanied  by 
a  cold  northwester  all  day.  Encamped  near  night  with- 
out being  able  to  discover  any  signs  of  the  party.  Our 
sensations  now  became  excruciating,  not  only  for  their 
personal  safety,  but  for  fear  of  the  failure  of  the  national 
objects  intended  to  be  accomplished  by  the  expedition. 
Our  own  situation  was  not  the  most  agreeable,  not  hav- 
ing more  than  four  rounds  of  ammunition  each,  and 
being  400  miles  in  the  nearest  direction  from  the  first 
civilized  inhabitants.  We,  however,  concluded  to  search 
for  the  party  on  the  morrow,  and  if  we  did  not  suc- 
ceed in  finding  them,  to  strike  the  Arkansaw,  where  we 
were  in  hopes  to  discover  some  traces,  if  not  cut  off 
by  the  savages. 

"Oct.  iSth.  Commenced  our  route  at  a  good  time, 
and  about  ten  o'clock  discovered  two  men  on  horse- 
back in  search  of  us — one  my  waiter.  They  informed 
us  the  party  was  encamped  on  the  Arkansaw,  about 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak        199 

three  miles  south  of  where  we  then  were;  this  sur- 
prised us  very  much,  as  we  had  no  conception  of  that 
river  being  so  near.  On  our  arrival  we  were  met  by 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  who,  with  all  the  party,  was 
greatly  concerned  for  our  safety.  The  Arkansaw,  on  the 
party's  arrival,  had  not  water  in  it  six  inches  deep,  and 
the  stream  was  not  more  than  20  feet  wide;  but  the 
rain  of  the  two  days  covered  all  the  bottom  of  the  river, 
which  in  this  place  is  450  yards  from  bank  to  bank. 
These  are  not  more  than  four  feet  in  height,  bordered 
by  a  few  cottonwood  trees;  on  the  north  side,  a  low 
swampy  prairie;  on  the  south,  a  sandy,  sterile  desert 
at  a  small  distance.  In  the  afternoon  the  doctor  and 
myself  took  our  horses  and  crossed  the  Arkansaw,  in 
order  to  search  for  some  trees  which  might  answer 
the  purpose  to  make  canoes;  found  but  one  and  re- 
turned at  dusk.  It  commenced  raining  at  twelve 
o'clock." 

Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  report  further  explains  his 
change  of  camp,  and  its  interesting  result: 

"For  several  days  past  we  had  been  so  bewildered 
by  buffalo  paths  that  we  lost  the  Spanish  trace;  and 
this  being  an  object  of  moment,  we  resolved  to  make 
search  for  it.  Accordingly,  on  the  following  day  at 
noon,  Mr.  Pike  and  Dr.  Robinson  struck  off  from  the 
party  on  a  due  west  course,  and  I  marched  the  detach- 
ment for  a  copse  of  wood  which  we  could  barely  discern 
in  the  southwest,  and  reached  it  about  midnight.  At 
daybreak  I  was  awakened  by  my  old  and  faithful 
Osage,  who  informed  me  that  we  were  on  the  banks  of 


200  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

the  Arkansaw  river.  I  immediately  arose,  and  dis- 
covered my  tent  to  have  been  pitched  on  the  margin  of 
a  watercourse  nearly  400  yards  v^ide,  v^ith  banks  not 
three  feet  high,  and  a  stream  of  water  running  through 
it  about  20  feet  in  width  and  not  more  than  six  or  eight 
inches  deep. 

"I  remained  here  four  days  in  great  anxiety  and  sus- 
pense, as  neither  Mr.  Pike  nor  Dr.  Robinson  made 
their  appearance,  nor  could  be  found,  although  I  had 
all  my  hunters  out  in  search  of  them.  But  I  was 
agreeably  surprised  on  the  fifth  day,  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, by  their  arrival.  It  appeared  that  our  apprehen- 
sions were  mutual,  as  they  expected  I  had  been  cut 
off,  and  I  believed  they  had  been  murdered." 

The  party  now  together  after  its  day  of  anxiety, 
the  camp  was  removed  to  the  south  bank  of  the  river 
now  rising  so  rapidly  on  account  of  the  rain.  Here 
the  business  of  building  the  canoe  with  which  Lieu- 
tenant Wilkinson  was  to  descend  the  river  was  begun. 
A  young  cottonwood  tree  was  hewn  out  with  much  labor, 
but,  proving  not  sufficient,  a  second  canoe  was  con- 
structed of  buffalo  and  elk  skins.  Meanwhile  the  hunters 
were  busy,  and  for  diversion  a  target  was  set  up,  and 
for  the  best  shot,  a  prize  of  a  tent  and  a  pair  of  shoes 
was  offered.  Unluckily,  in  this  contest  the  dog  standing 
in  the  grass  at  the  foot  of  a  tree  was  shot  and  killed. 
Still  searching  for  the  traces  of  the  Spaniards,  Pike  with 
Dr.  Robinson  rode  twenty  miles  up  the  Arkansas  to  its 
junction  with  the  Pawnee  River,  and  five  miles  up  the 
latter  river  to  what  became  Fort  Larned,  then  a  trading- 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak        201 

post  on  the  main  road  to  Santa  Fe,  and  latterly  a  place 
of  strategic  importance  in  our  Indian  campaigns. 

''Oct.  2^th.  We  ascended  the  right  branch  about 
five  miles,  but  could  not  see  any  sign  of  the  Spanish 
trace;  this  is  not  surprising,  as  the  river  bears  south- 
west, and  they  no  doubt  kept  more  to  the  west  from  the 
head  of  one  branch  to  another.  We  returned  on  our 
way  and  killed  some  prairie-squirrels,  or  wishtonwishes 
and  nine  large  rattlesnakes,  which  frequent  their  vil- 
lages. On  our  arrival,  found  the  hunters  had  come 
in  a  boat  one  hour  before,  with  two  buffalos  and  one 
elk  skin. 

"The  wishtonwish  of  the  Indians,  prairie-dogs  of 
some  travelers,  or  squirrels,  as  I  should  be  inclined  to 
denominate  them,  reside  on  the  prairies  of  Louisiana  in 
towns  or  villages,  having  an  evident  police  established 
in  their  communities.  The  sites  of  their  towns  are 
generally  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  near  some  creek  or  pond, 
in  order  to  be  convenient  to  water,  and  that  the  high 
ground  which  they  inhabit  may  not  be  subject  to  in- 
undation. Their  residence,  being  under  ground,  is 
burrowed  out,  and  the  earth,  which  answers  the  double 
purpose  of  keeping  out  the  water  and  affording  an  ele- 
vated place  in  wet  seasons  to  repose  on,  and  to  give 
them  a  further  and  more  distinct  view  of  the  country. 
Their  holes  descend  in  a  spiral  form;  therefore  I  could 
never  ascertain  their  depth;  but  I  once  had  140  kettles 
of  water  poured  into  one  of  them  in  order  to  drive  out 
the  occupant,  without  effect.  In  the  circuit  of  the  vil- 
lages they  clear  off  all  the  grass,  and  leave  the  earth  bare 


202  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

of  vegetation;  but  whether  it  is  from  an  instinct  they 
possess  inducing  them  to  keep  the  ground  thus  cleared, 
or  whether  they  make  use  of  the  herbage  as  food,  I 
cannot  pretend  to  determine.  The  latter  opinion  I 
think  entitled  to  a  preference,  as  their  teeth  designate 
them  to  be  of  the  graminivorous  species,  and  I  know  of 
no  other  substance  which  is  produced  in  the  vicinity  of 
their  positions  on  which  they  could  subsist;  and  they 
never  extend  their  excursions  more  than  half  a  mile 
from  the  burrows.  They  are  of  a  dark  brovm  color, 
except  their  bellies,  which  are  white.  Their  tails  are 
not  so  long  as  those  of  our  gray  squirrels,  but  are  shaped 
precisely  like  theirs;  their  teeth,  head,  nails,  and  body 
are  the  perfect  squirrel,  except  that  they  are  generally 
fatter  than  that  animal.  Their  villages  sometimes  ex- 
tend over  two  and  three  miles  square,  in  which  there 
must  be  innumerable  hosts  of  them,  as  there  is  generally 
a  burrow  every  ten  steps  in  which  there  are  two  or  more, 
and  you  see  new  ones  partly  excavated  on  all  the  borders 
of  the  town.  We  killed  great  numbers  of  them  with  our 
rifles  and  found  them  excellent  meat,  after  they  were  ex- 
posed a  night  or  two  to  the  frost,  by  which  means  the 
rankness  acquired  by  their  subterraneous  dwelling  is 
corrected.  As  you  approach  their  towns,  you  are 
saluted  on  all  sides  by  the  cry  of  "wishtonwish,"  from 
which  they  derive  their  name  with  the  Indians,  uttered 
in  a  shrill  and  piercing  manner.  You  then  observe 
them  all  retreating  to  the  entrance  of  their  burrows, 
where  they  post  themselves,  and  regard  every,  even  the 
slightest,  movement  that  you  make.     It  requires  a  very 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak       203 

nice  shot  with  a  rifle  to  kill  them,  as  they  must  be  killed 
dead,  for  as  long  as  life  exists  they  continue  to  work 
into  their  cells.  It  is  extremely  dangerous  to  pass 
through  their  towns,  as  they  abound  with  rattlesnakes, 
both  of  the  yellow  and  black  species;  and  strange  as  it 
may  appear,  I  have  seen  the  wishtonwish,  the  rattle- 
snake, the  horn  frog,  with  which  the  prairie  abounds 
(termed  by  the  Spaniards  the  cammellion,  from  their 
taking  no  visible  sustenance),  and  a  land-tortoise,  all 
take  refuge  in  the  same  hole.  I  do  not  pretend  to  assert 
that  it  was  their  common  place  of  resort;  but  I  have 
witnessed  the  above  facts  in  more  than  one  instance. 

'^  Sunday y  Oct.  26th.  Delivered  out  a  ration  of  corn 
by  way  of  distinction  of  the  Sabbath.  Preparing  for 
our  departure. 

"Oct.  2Jth.  Delivered  to  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  let- 
ters for  the  general  and  our  friends,  with  other  papers, 
consisting  of  his  instructions,  traverse  tables  of  our 
voyage,  and  a  draught  of  our  route  complete,  in  order 
that  if  we  were  lost,  and  he  arrived  in  safety,  we  might 
not  have  made  the  tour  without  some  benefit  to  our 
country.  He  took  with  him,  in  corn  and  meat,  21  days 
provisions,  and  all  the  necessary  tools  to  build  canoes 
or  cabins.  Launched  his  canoes.  We  concluded  we 
would  separate  in  the  morning,  he  to  descend  and  we 
to  ascend  to  the  mountains. 

"Orf.  zSth.  As  soon  as  possible  all  was  in  motion, 
my  party  crossing  the  river  to  the  north  side,  and 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson  launching  his  canoes  of  skin  and 
wood.     We  breakfasted  together,  and  then  filed  off; 


204  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

but  I  suffered  my  party  to  march,  while  I  remained  to 
see  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  sail.  This  he  did  at  ten 
o'clock,  having  one  skin  canoe,  made  of  four  buffalo 
skins  and  two  elk  skins,  which  held  three  men  beside 
himself  and  one  Osage.  In  his  wooden  canoe  were 
one  soldier,  one  Osage  and  their  baggage;  one  other 
soldier  marched  on  shore.  We  parted  with  *God  bless 
you'  from  both  parties;  they  appeared  to  sail  very  well. 
In  the  pursuit  of  our  party  Dr.  Robinson,  Baroney, 
one  soldier  and  myself,  killed  a  brelau  and  a  buffalo; 
of  the  latter  we  took  only  his  marrow  bones  and  liver. 
Arrived  where  our  man  had  encamped  about  dusk. 
Distance  14  miles. 

"Oct.  2gth.  Marched  after  breakfast  and  in  the 
first  hour's  march  passed  two  fires,  where  21  Indians 
had  recently  encamped,  in  which  party,  by  their  paint- 
ings on  the  rocks,  there  were  seven  guns.  Killed  a 
buffalo,  halted,  made  fire,  and  feasted  on  the  choice 
pieces  of  meat.  About  noon  discovered  two  horses 
feeding  with  a  herd  of  buffalo;  we  attempted  to  sur- 
round them,  but  they  soon  cleared  our  fleetest  coursers. 
One  appeared  to  be  an  elegant  horse.  These  were  the 
first  wild  horses  we  had  seen.  Two  or  three  hours  be- 
fore night  struck  the  Spanish  road;  and,  as  it  was  snow- 
ing, halted  and  encamped  the  party  at  the  first  woods 
on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  doctor  and  myself  then 
forded  it,  the  ice  running  very  thick,  in  order  to  discover 
the  course  the  Spaniards  took;  but  owing  to  the  many 
buffalo  roads,  could  not  ascertain  it.  It  evidently  ap- 
peared that  they  had  halted  here  some  time,  as  the 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak       205 

ground  was  covered  with  horse-dung  for  miles  around. 
Returned  to  camp.  The  snow  fell  about  two  inches 
deep,  and  then  it  cleared  up. 

''Oct.  30/A.  In  the  morning  sent  out  to'kill  a  buffalo, 
to  have  his  marrow  bones  for  breakfast,  which  was  ac- 
complished. After  breakfast  the  party  marched  up 
the  north  side;  the  doctor  and  myself  crossed  with  con- 
siderable difficulty,  on  account  of  the  ice  to  the  Spanish 
camp,  where  we  took  a  large  circuit  in  order  to  discover 
the  Spanish  trace,  and  came  in  at  a  point  of  woods 
south  of  the  river  where  we  found  our  party  encamped. 
We  discovered  also  that  the  Spanish  troops  had  marked 
the  river  up,  and  that  a  party  of  savages  had  been  there 
not  more  than  three  days  before.  Killed  two  buffaloes. 
Distance  4  miles. 

"We  observed  this  day  a  species  of  crystallization  on 
the  road,  when  the  sun  was  high,  in  low  places  where 
there  had  been  water  settled;  on  tasting  it  found  it  to 
be  salt;  this  gave  in  my  mind  some  authenticity  to  the 
report  of  the  prairie  being  covered  for  leagues.  Dis- 
covered the  trace  of  about  20  savages  who  had  followed 
our  road ;  and  of  horses  going  down  the  river.  Killed 
one  buffalo,  one  elk  and  one  deer. 

''Nov.  1st.  Marched  early;  just  after  commencing 
our  line,  heard  a  gun  on  our  left.  The  doctor,  Baroney 
and  myself  being  in  the  advance,  and  lying  on  the  ground 
waiting  for  our  party,  a  band  of  cabrie  came  among 
our  horses,  to  satisfy  their  curiosity;  we  could  not 
resist  the  temptation  of  killing  two,  although  we  had 
plenty  of  meat.     At  the  report  of  the  gun  they  appeared 


2o6  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

astonished,  and  stood  still  until  we  hallowed  to  drive 
them  away.     Encamped  in  the  evening  on  an  island. 

"Upon  using  my  glass  to  observe  the  adjacent  coun- 
try, I  observed  a  herd  of  horses.  Dr.  Robinson  and 
Baroney  accompanied  me  to  go  and  view  them;  when 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  they  discovered  us,  and  came 
immediately  up  near  us,  making  the  earth  tremble 
under  them;  this  brought  to  my  recollection  a  charge 
of  cavalry.  They  stopped  and  gave  us  an  opportunity 
to  view  them;  among  them  there  were  some  very  beau- 
tiful bays,  blacks,  and  grays,  and  indeed  of  all  colors. 
We  fired  at  a  black  horse,  with  an  idea  of  creasing  him, 
but  did  not  succeed;  they  flourished  round  and  returned 
again  to  see  us,  when  we  returned  to  camp. 

''Sunday^  Nov.  2d.  In  the  morning,  for  the  purpose 
of  trying  the  experiment,  we  equipped  six  of  our  fleetest 
coursers  with  riders  and  ropes,  to  noose  the  wild  horses, 
if  in  our  power  to  come  among  the  band.  They  stood 
until  we  came  within  forty  yards  of  them,  neighing  and 
whinneying,  when  the  chase  began,  which  we  continued 
about  two  miles,  without  success.  Two  of  our  horses 
ran  up  with  them;  but  we  could  not  take  them.  Re- 
turned to  camp.  I  have  since  laughed  at  our  folly;  for 
taking  wild  horses  in  that  manner  is  scarcely  ever  at- 
tempted, even  with  the  fleetest  horses  and  most  expert 
ropers.  See  my  account  of  wild  horses  and  the  manner 
of  taking  them,  in  my  dissertation  on  the  province  of 
Texas.  Marched  late.  Killed  one  buff'alo.  River  turned 
to  north  by  west.  Hills  changed  to  the  northside.  Dis- 
tance 13  §  miles. 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak        207 

''Nov.  3 J.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock.  Passed  numer- 
ous herds  of  buffalo,  elk,  some  horses,  etc.,  all  traveUing 
south.  The  river  bottoms  full  of  salt  meadows.  Killed 
one  buffalo. 

"Nov.  ^th.  This  day  brought  to  our  recollection  the 
fate  of  our  countrymen  at  Recovery,  when  defeated  by 
the  Indians,  in  the  year  1791.  In  the  afternoon  dis- 
covered the  north  side  of  the  river  to  be  covered  with 
animals;  which,  when  we  came  to  them,  proved  to  be 
buffalo  cows  and  calves.  I  do  not  think  it  an  exagger- 
ation to  say  there  were  3,000  in  one  view.  It  is  worthy 
of  remark  that  in  all  the  extent  of  country  yet  crossed,  we 
never  saw  one  cow,  and  that  now  the  face  of  the  earth 
appeared  to  be  covered  with  them.  Killed  one  buffalo. 
Distance  24J  miles." 

When  Pike  made  this  allusion  to  the  most  disastrous 
defeat  our  army  had  ever  suffered  from  the  Indians  on 
the  Wabash  River  in  Darke  County,  Ohio,  under  General 
Arthur  St.  Clair,  he  was  camping  a  Httle  west  of  the 
town  of  Ingalls  in  Gray  County,  Kansas.  After  leaving 
Fort  Larned,  following  the  Spanish  route  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Arkansas  River,  according  to  his  mileage 
he  made  his  first  camp  near  the  town  of  Garfield,  the 
second  camp  in  the  vicinity  of  Kingsley,  and  the  third 
near  the  boundary  line  between  Ford  and  Kiowa  Coun- 
ties. He  then  marched  to  Ford,  where  he  notes  the 
change  in  the  character  of  the  scenery.  His  next 
camp  is  at  Dodge  City,  and  after  passing  Ingalls — the 
camp  of  the  date  above — he  halts  at  Garden  City, 
again  near  Hartland,  and  his  last  day's  camp  in  Kan- 


2o8  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

sas  was  at  Coolidge  on  the  border  line  on  November 
the  eleventh. 

''Nov.  yh.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour;  at  the  end 
of  two  miles  shot  a  buffalo  and  two  deer,  and  halted, 
which  detained  us  so  long  that  we  foolishly  concluded 
to  halt  this  day  and  kill  some  cows  and  calves,  which  lay 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  I  took  post  on  a  hill, 
and  sent  some  horsemen  over,  when  a  scene  took  place 
which  gave  a  lively  representation  of  an  engagement. 
The  herd  of  buffalo  being  divided  into  separate  bands 
covered  the  prairie  with  dust,  and  first  charged  on  the 
one  side,  then  to  the  other,  as  the  pursuit  of  the  horse- 
men impelled  them ;  the  report  and  smoke  from  the  guns 
added  to  the  pleasure  of  the  scene,  which  in  part  com- 
pensated for  our  detention. 

''Nov.  6th.  Marched  early  but  was  detained  two  or 
three  hours  by  the  cows  we  killed.  The  cow  buffalo 
is  equal  to  any  meat  I  ever  saw,  and  we  feasted  sumptu- 
ously on  the  choice  morsels.  I  will  not  attempt  to  de- 
scribe the  droves  of  animals  we  now  saw  on  our  route; 
suffice  it  to  say  that  the  face  of  the  prairie  was  covered 
with  them,  on  each  side  of  the  river;  their  number  ex- 
ceeded imagination.     Distance  i6  miles." 

Of  this  abundance  Pike  elsewhere  writes  to  his  su- 
periors : 

"The  borders  of  the  Arkansaw  river  may  be  termed 
the  terrestrial  paradise  of  our  territories  for  the  wander- 
ing savages.  Of  all  countries  ever  visited  by  the  foot- 
steps of  civilized  man,  there  never  was  one  probably 
that  produced  game  in  greater  abundance.     We  know 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Teak        209 

that  the  manners  and  morals  of  the  erratic  nations  are 
such  (the  reasons  I  leave  to  be  given  by  the  ontologists) 
as  never  to  give  them  a  numerous  population;  and  I 
believe  that  there  are  buffalo,  elk,  and  deer  sufficient 
on  the  banks  of  the  Arkansaw  alone,  if  used  without 
waste,  to  feed  all  the  savages  in  the  United  States  terri- 
tory one  century. 

*' Nov.  Sth.  Our  horses  being  very  much  jaded  and 
our  situation  very  eligible,  we  halted  all  day;  jerked 
meat,  mended  mockinsons,  etc. 

''Sunday,  Nov.  gth.  Marched  early.  At  twelve 
o'clock  struck  the  Spanish  road,  which  had  been  on 
the  outside  of  us,  and  which  appeared  to  be  consider- 
ably augmented.  On  our  arrival  at  the  camp,  found 
it  to  consist  of  96  fires,  from  which  a  reasonable  con- 
clusion might  be  drawn  that  there  were  from  600  to  700 
men.  We  this  day  found  the  face  of  the  country  con- 
siderably changed,  being  hilly,  with  springs;  passed 
numerous  herds  of  buflFalo  and  some  horses. 

''Nov,  loth.  The  hills  increased;  the  banks  of  the 
river  covered  with  groves  of  young  cottonwood;  the 
river  itself  much  narrower  and  crooked.  Our  horses 
growing  weak;  two  gave  out;  bring  them  along  empty; 
cut  down  trees  at  night  for  them  to  browse  on.  Killed 
one  buffalo.     Distance  20  miles. 

"Nov.  nth.  Marched  at  the  usual  hour.  Passed 
two  old  camps,  and  one  of  last  summer,  which  had  be- 
longed to  the  savages,  and  we  supposed  Tetaus.  Passed 
a  Spanish  camp  where  it  appeared  they  remained  some 
days,  as  we  conjectured,  to  lay  up  meat,  previously  to 


2IO  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

entering  the  Tetau  country,  as  the  buffalo  evidently 
began  to  grow  much  less  numerous.  Finding  the  im- 
possibility of  performing  the  voyage  in  the  time  pro- 
posed, I  determined  to  spare  no  pains  to  accomplish 
every  object,  even  should  it  oblige  me  to  spend  another 
winter  in  the  desert.     Killed  one  buffalo,  one  brelaw. 

*'Nov.iyh.  Marched  at  the  usual  hour.  The  river 
banks  began  to  be  entirely  covered  with  woods  on  both 
sides,  but  no  other  species  than  cottonwood.  Discov- 
ered very  fresh  signs  of  Indians,  and  one  of  our  hunters 
informed  me  he  saw  a  man  on  horseback,  ascending  a 
ravine  on  our  left.  Discovered  signs  of  war  parties 
ascending  the  river.  Wounded  several  buffalo.  Killed 
one  turkey,  the  first  we  have  seen  since  we  left  the 
Pawnees. 

*'Nov.  i\th.  In  the  morning  Dr.  Robinson,  one  man, 
and  myself  went  up  a  ravine  in  which  the  man  was 
supposed  to  have  been  seen,  but  could  make  no  im- 
portant discovery.  Marched  at  two  o'clock;  passed  a 
point  of  red  rocks  and  one  large  creek.  Distance  lo 
miles. 

''Nov.iyh.  Marched  early.  Passed  two  deep  creeks 
and  many  high  points  of  rocks;  also,  large  herds  of  buf- 
falo. 

"At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  I  thought  I  could 
distinguish  a  mountain  to  our  right,  which  appeared  like 
a  small  blue  cloud;  viewed  it  with  the  spy  glass,  and 
was  still  more  confirmed  in  my  conjecture,  yet  only  com- 
municated it  to  Dr.  Robinson,  who  was  in  front  with 
me;  but  in  half  an  hour  they  appeared  in  full  view  before 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak       211 

us.  When  our  small  party  arrived  on  the  hill  they 
with  one  accord  gave  three  cheers  to  the  Mexican  moun- 
tains. Their  appearance  can  easily  be  imagined  by 
those  who  have  crossed  the  Alleghenies;  but  their  sides 
were  whiter,  as  if  covered  with  snow,  or  a  white  stone. 
Those  were  a  spur  of  the  grand  western  chain  of  moun- 
tains which  divide  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  from  those 
of  the  Atlantic  ocean;  and  it  [the  spur]  divides  the 
waters  which  empty  into  the  Bay  of  the  Holy  Spirit 
from  those  of  the  Mississippi,  as  the  Alleghenies  do 
those  which  discharge  themselves  into  the  latter  river 
and  the  Atlantic.  They  appear  to  present  a  natural 
boundary  between  the  province  of  Louisiana  and  New 
Mexico,  and  would  be  a  defined  and  natural  boundary." 

Pike's  party  has  now  reached  Purgatory  River,  which 
he  calls  the  "first  fork"  and  has  his  first  ghmpse  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  On  the  north  is  the  main 
range  with  Pike's  Peak  towering  high,  and  on  the  south 
that  branch  known  as  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range.  His 
next  camp  is  near  the  town  of  Rocky  Ford;  he  halts 
again  where  the  Apishapa  empties  into  the  Arkansas; 
and  makes  camp  the  third  night  at  Nepesta.  The 
party  does  not  advance  rapidly,  owing  not  only  to  the 
fatigue  of  the  horses,  but  to  the  leader's  anxiety  concern- 
ing the  Spanish  trail,  and  to  the  evident  traces  of  an 
Indian  war  party. 

''Sunday,  Nov.  i6th.  After  ascertaining  that  the 
Spanish  troops  had  ascended  the  right  branch  or  main 
river,  we  marched  at  two  o'clock.  The  Arkansaw  ap- 
peared at  this  place  to  be  much  more  navigable  than 


212  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

below,  where  we  first  struck  it;  and  for  any  impediment 
I  have  yet  discovered  in  the  river,  I  would  not  hesitate 
to  embark  in  February  at  its  mouth  and  ascend  to  the 
Mexican  mountains,  with  crafts  properly  constructed. 
Distance  ii|  miles. 

*'Nov.  ijth.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour;  pushed 
on  with  the  idea  of  arriving  at  the  mountains,  but  found 
at  night  no  visible  difference  in  their  appearance  from 
what  we  did  yesterday.  One  of  our  horses  gave  out 
and  was  left  in  the  ravine,  not  being  able  to  ascend  the 
hill;  but  I  sent  back  for  him  and  had  him  brought  to 
the  camp. 

*'Nov.  iSth.  As  we  discovered  fresh  signs  of  the 
savages,  we  concluded  it  best  to  stop  and  kill  some  meat, 
for  fear  we  should  get  into  a  country  where  we  could  not 
kill  game.  Sent  out  the  hunters;  walked  myself  to  an 
eminence  whence  I  took  the  courses  to  the  different 
mountains,  and  a  small  sketch  of  their  appearance. 
In  the  evening,  found  the  hunters  had  killed  without 
mercy,  having  slain  17  buffalo  and  wounded  at  least 
20  more. 

"Nov.  igth.  Having  several  buffalo  brought  in, 
gave  out  sufficient  to  last  this  month.  I  found  it  ex- 
pedient to  remain  and  dry  the  meat,  as  our  horses  were 
getting  weak,  and  the  one  died  which  was  brought  up 
on  the  17th.  Had  a  general  feast  of  marrow-bones, 
136  of  them  furnishing  the  repast. 

'^Nov.  20th,  Marched  at  our  usual  hour;  but  as 
our  horses'  loads  were  considerably  augmented  by  the 
death  of  one  horse  and  the  addition  of  900  lbs.  of  meat. 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak        213 

we  moved  slowly  and  made  only  18  miles.  Killed  two 
buffalo  and  took  some  choice  pieces. 

^'Nov.  21  St,  Marched  at  our  usual  hour;  passed  two 
Spanish  camps,  within  three  miles  of  each  other.  We 
again  discovered  the  tracks  of  two  men  who  had  ascended 
the  river  yesterday.  This  caused  us  to  move  with 
caution;  but  at  the  same  time  increased  our  anxiety  to 
discover  them.  The  river  was  certainly  as  navigable 
here,  and  I  think  much  more  so  than  some  hundred 
miles  below;  which  I  suppose  arises  from  its  flowing 
through  a  long  course  of  sandy  soil,  which  must  absorb 
much  of  the  water,  and  render  it  shoaler  below  than 
above,  near  the  mountains.     Distance  21  miles. 

"Nov,  22nd,  Marched  at  our  usual  hour,  and  with 
rather  more  caution  than  usual.  After  having  marched 
about  five  miles  on  the  prairie,  we  descended  into  the 
bottom — the  front  only;  when  Baroney  cried  out 
*Voila  un  Savage!'  We  observed  a  number  running 
from  the  woods  toward  us;  we  advanced  to  them,  and 
on  turning  my  head  to  the  left  I  observed  several  running 
on  the  hill,  as  it  were  to  surround  us;  one  with  a  stand 
of  color.  This  caused  a  momentary  halt;  but  perceiv- 
ing those  in  front  reaching  out  their  hands,  and  without 
arms,  we  again  advanced;  they  met  us  with  open  arms, 
crowding  around  to  touch  and  embrace  us.  They  ap- 
peared so  anxious  that  I  dismounted  from  my  horse. 
In  a  moment  a  fellow  had  mounted  him  and  was  off. 
I  then  observed  that  the  doctor  and  Baroney  were  in 
the  same  predicament.  The  Indians  were  embracing 
the  soldiers.     After  some  time  tranquillity  was  so  far 


214  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

restored,  they  having  returned  our  horses  all  safe,  as 
to  enable  us  to  learn  they  were  a  war  party  from  the 
Grand  Pawnees,  who  had  been  in  search  of  the  Tetaus; 
but  not  finding  them,  were  now  on  their  return.  An 
unsuccessful  war  party,  on  their  return  home,  are  al- 
ways ready  to  embrace  an  opportunity  of  gratifying 
their  disappointed  vengeance  on  the  first  persons  they 
meet. 

"Made  for  the  woods  and  unloaded  our  horses,  when 
the  two  partisans  endeavored  to  arrange  the  party;  it 
was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  they  got  them  tran- 
quil, and  not  until  there  had  been  a  bow  or  two  bent  on 
the  occasion.  When  in  some  order,  we  found  them  to 
be  60  warriors,  half  with  fire-arms,  and  half  with  bows, 
arrows,  and  lances.  Our  party  was  16  total.  In  a 
short  time  they  were  arranged  in  a  ring,  and  I  took  my 
seat  between  the  two  partisans;  our  colors  were  placed 
opposite  each  other;  the  utensils  for  smoking  were 
paraded  on  a  small  seat  before  us;  thus  far  all  was  well. 
1  then  ordered  half  a  carrot  of  tobacco,  one  dozen 
knives,  60  fire  steels,  and  60  flints  to  be  presented  them. 
They  demanded  ammunition,  corn,  blankets,  kettles, 
etc.,  all  of  which  they  were  refused,  notwithstanding  the 
pressing  instances  of  my  interpreter  to  accord  to  some 
points.  The  pipes  yet  lay  unmoved,  as  if  they  were  un- 
determined whether  to  treat  us  as  friends  or  enemies;  but 
after  some  time  we  were  presented  with  a  kettle  of  water, 
drank,  smoked,  and  ate  together.  During  this  time  Dr. 
Robinson  was  standing  up  to  observe  their  actions,  in 
order  that  we  might  be  ready  to  commence  hostilities 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak       215 

as  soon  as  they.  They  now  took  their  presents  and 
commenced  distributing  them,  but  some  malcontents 
threw  them  away,  by  way  of  contempt. 

"We  began  to  load  our  horses,  when  they  encircled 
us  and  commenced  stealing  everything  they  could. 
Finding  it  was  difficult  to  preserve  my  pistols,  I  mounted 
my  horse,  when  I  found  myself  frequently  surrounded; 
during  which  some  were  endeavoring  to  steal  the  pistols. 
The  doctor  was  equally  engaged  in  another  quarter,  and 
all  the  soldiers  in  their  positions,  in  taking  things  from 
them.  One  having  stolen  my  tomahawk,  I  informed 
the  chief;  but  he  paid  no  respect,  except  to  reply  that 
*they  were  pitiful.'  Finding  this,  I  determined  to  pro- 
tect ourselves,  as  far  as  was  in  my  power,  and  the  affair 
began  to  take  a  serious  aspect.  I  ordered  my  men  to 
take  their  arms  and  separate  themselves  from  the  sav- 
ages; at  the  same  time  declaring  to  them  that  I  would 
kill  the  first  man  who  touched  our  baggage.  On  which 
they  commenced  filing  off  immediately;  we  marched 
about  the  same  time,  and  found  they  had  made  out  to 
steal  one  sword,  tomahawk,  broad-ax,  five  canteens, 
and  sundry  other  small  articles.  After  leaving  them, 
when  I  reflected  on  the  subject,  I  felt  myself  sincerely 
mortified,  that  the  smallness  of  my  number  obliged  me 
thus  to  submit  to  the  insults  of  lawless  banditti,  it  being 
the  first  time  a  savage  ever  took  anything  from  me  with 
the  least  appearance  of  force. 

"After  encamping  at  night  the  doctor  and  myself  went 
about  one  mile  back,  and  waylaid  the  road,  determined 
in  case  we  discovered  any  of  the  rascals  pursuing  us  to 


21 6  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

steal  our  horses,  to  kill  two  at  least;  but  after  waiting 
behind  some  logs  until  some  time  in  the  night,  and  dis- 
covering no  person,  we  returned  to  camp.  Killed  two 
buffalo  and  one  deer.     Distance  17  miles. 

''Sunday,  Nov.  23 J.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock;  at 
one  o'clock  came  to  the  third  fork,  on  the  south  side, 
and  encamped  at  night  in  the  point  of  the  grand  forks. 
As  the  river  appeared  to  be  dividing  itself  into  many 
small  branches,  and  of  course  must  be  near  its  extreme 
source,  I  concluded  to  put  the  party  in  a  defensible  situ- 
ation, and  ascend  the  north  fork  to  the  high  point  of  the 
blue  mountain,  which  we  conceived  would  be  one  day's 
march,  in  order  to  be  enabled,  from  its  pinical  to  lay 
down  the  various  branches  and  positions  of  the  country. 
Killed  five  buffalo.     Distance  19  miles. 

''Nov.  2^th.  Early  in  the  morning  we  cut  down  14 
logs,  and  put  up  a  breastwork  five  feet  on  three  sides 
and  the  other  thrown  on  the  river.  After  giving  the 
necessary  orders  for  their  government  during  my  ab- 
sence, in  case  of  our  not  returning,  we  marched  at  one 
o'clock,  with  an  idea  of  arriving  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain;  but  found  ourselves  obliged  to  take  up  our 
night's  lodging  under  a  single  cedar  which  we  found  in 
the  prairie,  without  water  and  extremely  cold.  Our 
party  besides  myself  consisted  of  Dr.  Robinson,  and 
Privates  Miller  and  Brown.     Distance   12  miles." 

Pike  had  now  passed  the  Huerfano  River  in  its  junc- 
tion with  the  Arkansas,  caUing  it  the  "second  fork," 
and  the  St.  Charles  River  which  he  terms  the  "third 
fork,"  and  arrived  at  the  "Grand  forks,"  by  which 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak       217 

must  be  understood  the  junction  of  the  Fountain  River 
with  the  Arkansas,  and  the  present  site  of  the  city  of 
Pueblo.  Here  he  erected  his  block-house,  leaving  a 
detachment  of  his  men,  and  started  up  the  Fountain 
River  to  the  "high  point  of  the  blue  mountain."  This 
we  now  know  as  Pike's  Peak,  which  he  then  considered 
to  be  but  a  day's  march  away. 

''Nov,  2^th.  Marched  early,  with  an  expectation  of 
ascending  the  mountain,  but  was  only  able  to  encamp 
at  its  base,  after  passing  over  many  small  hills  covered 
with  cedars  and  pitch-pines.  Our  encampment  was 
on  a  creek,  where  we  found  no  water  for  several  miles 
from  the  mountain;  but  near  its  base,  found  springs 
sufficient.  Took  a  meridional  observation,  and  the 
altitude  of  the  mountain.  Killed  two  buffalo.  Dis- 
tance 22  miles. 

''Nov.  26th.  Expecting  to  return  to  our  camp  the 
same  evening,  we  left  all  our  blankets  and  provisions 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  Killed  a  deer  of  a  new 
species  and  hung  his  skin  on  a  tree  with  some  meat. 
We  commenced  ascending;  found  it  very  difficult,  being 
obliged  to  climb  up  rocks,  sometimes  almost  perpendicu- 
lar; and  after  marching  all  day  we  encamped  in  a  cave, 
without  blankets,  victuals,  or  water.  We  had  a  fine 
clear  sky,  while  it  was  snowing  at  the  bottom.  On  the 
side  of  the  mountain  we  found  only  yellow  and  pitch- 
pine.  Some  distance  up  we  found  buffalo;  higher  still 
a  new  species  of  deer  and  pheasants. 
\  "Nov.  2Jth.  Arose  hungry,  dry,  and  extremely  sore, 
from  the  inequality  of  the  rocks  on  which  we  had  lain  all 


21 8  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

night,  but  were  amply  compensated  for  toil  by  the  sub- 
limity of  the  prospect  below.  The  unbounded  prairie 
was  overhung  with  clouds,  which  appeared  like  the 
ocean  in  a  storm,  wave  piled  on  wave  and  foaming, 
while  the  sky  was  perfectly  clear  where  we  were.  Com- 
menced our  march  up  the  mountain,  and  in  about  one 
hour  arrived  at  the  summit  of  this  chain.  Here  we 
found  the  snow  middle-deep;  no  sign  of  beast  or  bird 
inhabiting  this  region.  The  thermometer,  which  stood 
at  9°  above  zero  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  here  fell 
to  4°  below  zero.  The  summit  of  the  Grand  Peak, 
which  was  entirely  bare  of  vegetation  and  covered  with 
snow,  now  appeared  at  the  distance  of  15  or  16  miles 
from  us.  It  was  as  high  again  as  what  we  had  ascended, 
and  it  would  have  taken  a  whole  day's  march  to  arrive 
at  its  base,  when  I  believe  no  human  being  could  have 
ascended  to  its  pinical.  This,  with  the  condition  of 
my  soldiers,  who  had  only  light  overalls  on,  no  stock- 
ings, and  were  in  every  way  ill  provided  to  endure  the 
inclemency  of  the  region;  the  bad  prospect  of  killing 
anything  to  subsist  on,  with  the  further  detention  of 
two  or  three  days  which  it  must  occasion,  determined  us 
to  return.  The  clouds  from  below  had  now  ascended 
the  mountain  and  entirely  enveloped  the  summit,  on 
which  rest  eternal  snows.  We  descended  by  a  long, 
deep  ravine,  with  much  less  difficulty  than  contemplated. 
Found  all  our  baggage  safe,  but  the  provisions  all  de- 
stroyed. It  began  to  snow,  and  we  sought  shelter  under 
the  side  of  a  projecting  rock,  where  we  all  four  made  a 
meal  on  one  partridge  and  a  piece  of  deer's  ribs  the 


Through  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak        219 

ravens  had  left  us,  being  the  first  we  had  eaten  in  that 
48  hours. 

'*Nov.  zSth.  Marched  at  nine  o'clock.  Kept  straight 
on  down  the  creek  to  avoid  the  hills.  At  half  past  one 
o'clock  shot  two  buffalo,  when  we  made  the  first  full 
meal  we  had  made  in  three  days.  Encamped  in  a  valley 
under  a  shelving  rock.  The  land  here  very  rich,  and 
covered  with  old  Tetau  camps." 

The  peak  which  Pike  ascended  is  known  to  us  as 
Cheyenne  peak.  ** Grand  Peak"  now  bears  his  name. 
It  is  not  known  by  whom  this  was  first  applied.  Gen- 
eral Fremont  in  the  map  of  his  explorations  in  1843 
calls  it  Pike's  Peak,  and  this  was  the  name  given  it  by 
the  white  people  of  the  country  many  years  before. 
Returning  to  his  camp  Pike  came  down  Turkey  Creek 
"to  avoid  the  hills,"  halting  at  the  old  Comanche  camps 
of  the  valley — for  by  the  word  Tetaus,  which  should 
be  spelled  Tetans,  he  refers  to  the  Comanche  tribe, 
whose  acquaintance  he  is  yet  to  make. 

''Sunday,  Nov.  30/A.  Marched  at  eleven  o'clock; 
it  snowed  very  fast,  but  my  impatience  to  be  moving 
would  not  permit  my  lying  in  camp.  The  doctor, 
Baroney  and  myself  went  to  view  a  Tetau  encampment, 
which  appeared  to  be  about  two  years  old;  and  from 
their  having  cut  down  so  large  a  quantity  of  trees  to 
support  their  horses,  we  concluded  there  must  have  been 
at  least  2000  souls.  Passed  several  more  in  the  course 
of  the  day;  also  one  Spanish  camp.  This  day  came 
to  the  first  cedar  and  pine.  Killed  two  deer.  Distance 
15  miles." 


CHAPTER  VI 

IN  THE  MOUNTAINS   OF   COLORADO 
December  ist,  i8o6-February  26th,  1807 

*^  Monday,  Dec.  1st.  The  storm  still  continuing  with 
violence,  we  remained  encamped;  the  snow  by  night 
was  one  foot  deep.  Our  horses  were  obliged  to  scrape 
it  away  to  obtain  their  miserable  pittance,  and  to  in- 
crease their  misfortunes  the  poor  animals  were  attacked 
by  the  magpies,  which,  attracted  by  the  scent  of  their 
sore  backs,  alighted  on  them,  and  in  defiance  of  their 
wincing  and  kicking,  picked  many  places  quite  raw. 
The  difficulty  of  procuring  food  rendered  those  birds 
so  bold  as  to  alight  on  our  men's  arms  and  eat  meat 
out  of  their  hands.  One  of  our  hunters  went  out,  but 
killed  nothing. 

''Dec.  2d.  It  cleared  off  in  the  night,  and  in  the 
morning  the  thermometer  stood  at  17°  below  zero 
(Reaumer),  being  three  times  as  cold  as  any  morning 
we  had  yet  experienced.  We  killed  an  old  buffalo  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  which  here  was  so  deep  as 
to  swim  horses.  Marched  and  found  it  necessary  to 
cross  to  the  north  side,  about  two  miles  up,  as  the  ridge 
joined  the  river.  The  ford  was  a  good  one,  but  the  ice 
ran  very  bad,  and  two  of  the  men  got  their  feet  frozen 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  221 

before  we  could  get  accommodated  with  fire,  etc. 
Secured  some  of  our  old  buffalo  and  continued  our 
march.  The  country  being  very  rugged  and  hilly,  one 
of  our  horses  took  a  freak  in  his  head  and  turned  back, 
which  occasioned  three  of  our  rear-guard  to  lie  out  all 
night;  I  was  very  apprehensive  they  might  perish  on 
the  prairie.     Distance  13  miles. 

''Dec.  3^.  The  weather  moderating  to  3°  below  zero, 
our  absentees  joined,  one  with  his  feet  frozen,  but  were 
not  able  to  bring  up  the  horse.  I  sent  two  men  back  on 
horseback.  The  hardships  of  our  last  voyage  had  now 
begun;  and  had  the  climate  only  been  as  severe  as  the 
climate  then  was,  some  of  the  men  must  have  perished, 
for  they  had  no  winter  clothing.  I  wore  myself  cotton 
overalls,  for  I  had  not  calculated  on  being  out  in  that  in- 
clement season  of  the  year. 

"Dr.  Robinson  and  myself,  with  assistants,  went  out 
and  took  the  altitude  of  the  north  mountain,  [Pike's 
Peak],  on  the  base  of  a  mile.  The  perpendicular  height 
of  this  mountain,  from  the  level  of  the  prairie,  was  10,581 
feet,  and  admitting  that  the  prairie  was  8,000  feet  from 
the  level  of  the  sea,  it  would  make  the  elevation  of  this 
peak,  18,581  feet;  equal  to  some  and  surpassing  the 
calculated  height  of  others  for  the  peak  of  Teneriffe, 
and  faUing  short  of  that  of  Chimborazo  only  1,701  feet. 
Indeed,  it  was  so  remarkable  as  to  be  known  to  all  the 
savage  nations  for  hundreds  of  miles  around,  to  be 
spoken  of  with  admiration  by  the  Spaniards  of  New 
Mexico,  and  to  be  the  bounds  of  their  travels  N.  W. 
In  our  wandering  in  the  mountains  it  was  never  out  of 


222  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

sight,  except  when  in  a  valley,  from  the  14th  of  Novem- 
ber to  the  27th  of  January. 

"After  this,  together  with  Sparks,  we  endeavored  to 
kill  a  cow,  but  without  effect.  Killed  two  bulls,  that 
the  men  might  use  their  hides  for  mockinsons.  Left 
Sparks  out.  On  our  return  to  camp  found  the  men 
had  got  back  with  the  strayed  horse,  but  too  late  to 
march." 

''Dec.  ^th.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour.  Passed 
one  very  bad  place  for  falling  rocks;  had  to  carry  our 
loads.  Encamped  on  the  main  branch  of  the  river, 
near  the  entrance  of  the  South  mountain.  In  the  even- 
ing walked  up  the  mountain.  Heard  14  guns  at  camp 
during  my  absence,  which  alarmed  me  considerably; 
returned  as  quickly  as  possible  and  found  that  the  cause 
of  alarm  was  their  shooting  turkeys.  Killed  two  buffa- 
loes and  nine  turkeys.     Distance  20  miles." 

Pike's  estimate  of  the  height  of  Pike's  Peak,  it  is  now 
known,  was  too  generous.  The  actual  height  is  14,147 
feet. 

He  is  now  camping  at  Canon  City,  and  from  there 
in  searching  with  the  doctor  for  "the  Spanish  trace" 
discovers  the  Royal  Gorge,  now  famous  in  the  scenery 
of  this  country.  Then  with  Dr.  Robinson  and  Miller  he 
went  northward,  camping  on  Ten  Mile  Creek  near  the 
town  of  Truro.  Ascending  the  creek  he  entered  South 
Park,  making  his  pass  between  Ten  Mile  and  Thirty 
Nine  Mile  Mountains,  and  camped  on  the  South  Platte 
River  near  Howbert.  The  party  then  marched  up  the 
South  Platte,  until  finding  it  going  too  far  north,  struck 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  223 

off  near  Hartsel,  where  he  camped,  and  from  there 
marched  South,  making  Trout  Creek  Pass,  where  the 
Colorado  Midland  railroad  now  crosses  and  striking 
the  Arkansas  River  again,  which  he  mistook  for  the 
Red  River  at  Buena  Vista.  From  here  he  marched 
up  the  river  until  he  came  under  the  shadow  of  Mount 
Harvard,  camping  between  Fisher  and  Riverside,  and 
thence  to  the  highest  point  the  expedition  reached  on 
the  Arkansas  River,  and  Pike's  nearest  approach  to  the 
waters  of  the  Pacific. 

''Dec,  6th.  Sent  out  three  different  parties  to  hunt 
the  Spanish  trace,  but  without  success.  The  doctor 
and  myself  followed  the  river  into  the  mountain,  where 
it  was  bounded  on  each  side  by  the  rocks  of  the  moun- 
tain, 200  feet  high,  leaving  a  small  valley  of  50  or  60 
feet.     Killed  two  buffaloes,  two  deer,  one  turkey. 

''Sunday,  Dec.  Jth.  We  again  dispatched  parties  in 
search  of  the  trace.  One  party  discovered  it,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river,  and  followed  it  into  the  valley 
of  the  river  at  the  entrance  of  the  mountain,  where  they 
met  two  parties  who  were  returning  from  exploring  the 
two  branches  of  the  river,  in  the  mountains;  of  which 
they  reported  that  they  had  ascended  until  the  river  was 
merely  a  brook,  bounded  on  both  sides  with  perpendic- 
ular rocks,  impracticable  for  horses  ever  to  pass  them; 
they  had  then  crossed  the  river  to  the  north  side,  and 
discovered,  as  they  supposed,  that  the  Spanish  troops 
had  ascended  a  dry  valley  to  the  right.  On  their  return 
they  found  some  rock-salt,  samples  of  which  were 
brought  me.     We  determined  to  march  the  morrow  to 


224  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

the  entrance  of  the  valley,  there  to  examine  the  salt  and 
the  road.     Killed  one  wildcat. 

^^Dec,  Sth.  On  examining  the  trace  found  yester- 
day, conceived  it  to  have  been  only  a  reconnoitering 
party,  dispatched  from  the  main  body;  and  on  analyz- 
ing the  rock-salt,  found  it  to  be  strongly  impregnated 
with  sulphur.  There  were  some  very  strong  sulphurated 
springs  at  its  foot.  Returned  to  camp;  took  with  me 
Dr.  Robinson  and  Miller,  and  descended  the  river,  in 
order  to  discover  certainly  if  the  whole  party  had  come 
by  this  route.  Descended  seven  miles  on  the  south 
side.  Saw  great  quantities  of  turkeys  and  deer. 
Killed  one  deer. 

**Dec.  gth.  Before  we  marched  killed  a  fine  buck  at 
our  camp  as  he  was  passing.  Found  the  Spanish  camp 
about  four  miles  below;  and  from  every  observation  we 
could  make,  conceived  they  all  ascended  the  river.  Re- 
turned to  camp,  where  we  arrived  about  two  o'clock. 
Found  all  well;  would  have  moved  immediately  but 
four  men  were  out  reconnoitering.     Killed  three  deer. 

*'Dec.  loth.  Marched  and  found  the  road  over  the 
mountain  excellent.  Encamped  in  a  dry  ravine. 
Obliged  to  melt  snow  for  ourselves  and  horses;  and  as 
there  was  nothing  else  to  eat,  was  obliged  to  give  them 
one  pint  of  corn  each.     Killed  one  buffalo. 

''Dec.  nth.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  in  one 
mile  struck  a  branch  of  the  Arkansas  on  which  the  sup- 
posed Spaniards  had  encamped,  where  there  was  both 
water  and  grass.  Kept  up  this  branch,  but  was  fre- 
quently embarrassed  as  to  the  trace;    at  three  o'clock, 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  225 

having  no  sign  of  it,  halted  and  encamped,  and  went 
out  to  search  it;  found  it  about  one  mile  to  the  right. 
Distance  15  miles. 

'^Dec.  I2th.  Marched  at  nine  o'clock.  Continued 
up  the  same  branch  as  yesterday.  The  ridges  on  our 
right  and  left  appeared  to  grow  lower,  but  mountains 
appeared  on  our  flanks,  through  the  intervals,  covered 
with  snow.  Owing  to  the  weakness  of  our  horses,  we 
made  only  12  miles. 

''Dec.  lyh.  Marched  at  the  usual  hour;  passed 
large  springs  and  the  supposed  Spanish  camp;  crossed 
at  twelve  o'clock  a  dividing  ridge,  and  immediately  fell 
on  a  small  branch  running  N.  20°  W.  There  being 
no  appearance  of  wood,  we  left  it  and  the  Spanish  trace 
to  our  right,  and  made  for  the  hills  to  encamp.  After 
the  halt  I  took  my  gun  and  went  out  to  see  what  dis- 
covery I  could  make.  After  marching  about  two  miles 
north,  fell  on  a  river  40  yards  wide,  frozen  over;  which, 
after  some  investigation,  I  found  ran  northeast.  This 
was  the  occasion  of  much  surprise,  as  we  had  been  taught 
to  expect  to  meet  with  the  branches  of  Red  river,  which 
should  run  southeast.  Query:  Must  it  not  be  the 
headwaters  of  the  river  Platte  ^  If  so,  the  Missouri 
must  run  much  more  west  than  is  generally  represented ; 
for  the  Platte  is  a  small  river,  by  no  means  presenting 
an  expectation  of  so  extensive  a  course.  One  horse 
gave  out  and  was  left.     Distance  18  miles. 

'' Sunday,  Dec.  i^th.  Marched;  struck  the  river,  as- 
cended it  four  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  north  side. 
The  prairie,  being  about  two  miles  wide,  was  covered  for 


226  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

at  least  six  miles  along  the  banks  of  the  river  with  horse- 
dung  and  the  marks  of  Indian  camps,  which  had  been 
made  since  cold  weather,  as  was  evident  by  the  fires 
which  were  in  the  center  of  the  lodges.  The  sign  made 
by  their  horses  was  astonishing,  and  would  have  taken  a 
thousand  horses  some  months.  As  it  was  impossible  to 
say  which  course  the  Spaniards  had  pursued,  amongst 
this  multiplicity  of  signs,  we  halted  early,  and  discovered 
that  they  or  the  savages  had  ascended  the  river.  We 
determined  to  pursue  them,  as  the  geography  of  the 
country  had  turned  out  to  be  so  different  from  our  ex- 
pectations. We  were  somewhat  at  a  loss  which  course 
to  pursue,  unless  we  attempted  to  cross  the  snowcapped 
mountains  to  the  southeast  of  us,  which  was  almost  im- 
possible. Burst  one  of  our  rifles,  which  was  a  great  loss, 
as  it  made  three  guns  which  had  burst;  five  had  been 
broken  on  the  march,  and  one  of  my  men  was  now 
armed  with  my  sword  and  pistols.  Killed  two  buffa- 
loes. 

"Dec.  lyh.  After  repairing  our  guns  we  marched, 
but  were  obliged  to  leave  another  horse.  Ascended  the 
river,  both  sides  of  which  were  covered  with  old  Indian 
camps,  at  which  we  found  corn-cobs.  This  induced  us 
to  believe  that  those  savages,  although  erratic,  must 
remain  long  enough  in  one  position  to  cultivate  this 
grain,  or  obtain  it  of  the  Spaniards.  From  their  sign, 
they  must  have  been  extremely  numerous,  and  pos- 
sessed vast  numbers  of  horses.  My  poor  fellows  suf- 
fered extremely  from  cold,  being  almost  naked.  Dis- 
tance 10  miles. 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  227 

"Dec.  i6th.  Marched  up  the  river  about  two  miles 
and  killed  a  buffalo;  when,  finding  no  road  up  the 
stream,  we  halted  and  dispatched  parties  in  different 
courses,  the  doctor  and  myself  ascending  high  enough 
to  enable  me  to  lay  down  the  course  of  the  river  into  the 
mountains.  From  a  high  ridge  we  reconnoitered  the 
adjacent  country,  and  concluded,  putting  the  Spanish 
trace  out  of  the  question,  to  bear  our  course  southwest 
for  the  head  of  Red  river.  One  of  our  party  found  a 
large  camp,  which  had  been  occupied  by  at  least  3000 
Indians  with  a  large  cross  in  the  middle.  Query:  Are 
those  people  Catholics .? 

"Dec.  iSth.  Marched  and  crossed  the  mountain 
which  lay  southwest  of  us;  in  a  distance  of  seven  miles 
arrived  at  a  small  spring.  Some  of  our  lads  observed 
that  they  supposed  it  to  be  Red  river,  to  which  I  gave 
very  little  credit.  On  entering  a  gap  in  the  next  moun- 
tain came  past  an  excellent  spring,  which  formed  a  fine 
creek.  This  we  followed  through  narrows  in  the  moun- 
tains for  about  six  miles.  Found  many  evacuated 
camps  of  Indians,  the  latest  yet  seen.  After  pointing 
out  the  ground  for  the  encampment,  the  doctor  and 
myself  went  on  to  make  discoveries,  as  was  our  usual 
custom,  and  in  about  four  miles  we  struck  what  we 
supposed  to  be  the  Red  river,  which  here  was  about 
25  yards  wide,  ran  with  great  rapidity,  and  was  full  of 
rocks.  We  returned  to  the  party  with  the  news,  which 
gave  general  pleasure.  Determined  to  remain  a  day 
or  two  in  order  to  determine  the  source.  Snowing. 
Distance  18  miles. 


228  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

''Dec.  20th.  Having  found  a  fine  place  for  pasture  on 
the  river,  sent  our  horses  down  to  it  with  a  guard;  also, 
three  parties  out  hunting,  all  of  whom  returned  without 
success.  Took  an  observation.  As  there  was  no  pros- 
pect of  killing  any  game,  it  was  necessary  that  the  party 
should  leave  that  place.  I  therefore  determined  that 
the  doctor  and  Baroney  should  descend  the  river  in  the 
morning;  that  myself  and  two  men  would  ascend;  and 
that  the  rest  of  the  party  should  descend  after  the 
doctor,  until  they  obtained  provisions  and  could  wait 
for  me. 

''Sunday,  Dec.  2ist.  The  doctor  and  Baroney 
marched;  the  party  remained  for  me  to  take  a  meri- 
dional observation;  after  which  we  separated.  My- 
self and  the  two  men  who  accompanied  me,  Mountjoy 
and  Miller,  ascended  12  miles  and  encamped  on  the 
north  side. 

"Dec.  22(1.  Marched  up  13  miles,  to  a  large  point 
of  the  mountain,  whence  we  had  a  view  of  at  least  35 
miles,  to  where  the  river  entered  the  mountains;  it  be- 
ing at  that  place  not  more  than  10  or  15  feet  wide,  and 
properly  speaking,  only  a  brook.  From  this  place, 
after  taking  the  course  and  estimating  the  distance,  we 
returned  to  our  camp  of  last  evening.  Killed  one  tur- 
key and  a  hare. 

"Dec.  23 J.  Marched  early,  and  at  two  o'clock  dis- 
covered the  trace  of  our  party  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  forded  it,  although  extremely  cold,  and  marched 
until  some  time  in  the  night,  when  we  arrived  at  the 
second  night's  encampment  of  our  party.     Our  clothing 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  229 

was  frozen  stiff,  and  we  ourselves  considerably  be- 
numbed. 

''Dec.  2^th,  The  party's  provisions  extended  only  to 
the  23rd,  and  their  orders  were  not  to  halt  until  they 
killed  some  game,  and  then  wait  for  us;  consequently 
they  might  have  been  considerably  advanced.  About 
eleven  o'clock  met  Dr.  Robinson  on  the  prairie,  who 
informed  me  that  he  and  Baroney  had  been  absent 
from  the  party  two  days  without  killing  anything,  also 
without  eating;  but  that  ov*.i  night  they  had  killed  four 
buflFaloes,  and  that  he  was  in  search  of  the  men.  I  suf- 
fered the  two  lads  with  me  to  go  to  the  camp  where  the 
meat  was,  as  we  had  also  been  nearly  two  days  without 
eating.  The  doctor  and  myself  pursued  the  trace  and 
found  them  encamped  on  the  river-bottom.  Sent  out 
horses  for  the  meat.  Shortly  afterwards  Sparks  arrived 
and  informed  us  he  had  killed  four  cows.  Thus,  from 
being  in  a  starving  condition,  we  had  eight  beeves  in  our 
camp. 

"We  now  again  found  ourselves  all  assembled  to- 
gether on  Christmas  Eve,  and  appeared  generally  to  be 
content,  although  all  the  refreshment  we  had  to  celebrate 
that  day  with  was  buffalo  meat,  without  salt,  or  any 
other  thing  whatever.  My  little  excursion  up  the  river 
had  been  in  order  to  establish  the  geography  of  the 
sources  of  the  supposed  Red  river.  As  I  well  knew  that 
the  indefatigable  researches  of  Dr.  Hunter,  Dunbar,  and 
Freeman  had  left  nothing  unnoticed  in  the  extent  of 
their  voyage  up  said  river,  I  determined  that  its  upper 
branches   should   be   equally  well   explored.     In   this 


230  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

voyage  I  had  already  ascertained  the  sources  of  the 
Osage  and  White  rivers,  been  round  the  head  of  the 
Kans  river,  and  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Platte. 

^^Dec.  2^th.  It  being  stormy  weather  and  having 
meat  to  dry,  I  concluded  to  lie  by  this  day.  Here  I 
must  take  the  liberty  of  observing  that,  in  this  situation, 
the  hardships  and  privations  we  underwent  were  on 
this  day  brought  more  fully  to  our  mind,  having  been 
accustomed  to  some  degree  of  relaxation,  and  extra 
enjoyments.  But  here,  800  miles  from  the  frontiers  of 
our  country,  in  the  most  inclement  season  of  the  year 
— not  one  person  clothed  for  the  winter — many  without 
blankets,  having  been  obliged  to  cut  them  up  for  socks, 
etc.,  and  now  lying  down  at  night  on  the  snow  or  wet 
ground,  one  side  burning  whilst  the  other  was  pierced 
with  the  cold  wind — such  was  in  part  the  situation  of 
the  party,  whilst  some  were  endeavoring  to  make  a 
miserable  substitute  of  raw  buffalo  hide  for  shoes,  etc. 
I  will  not  speak  of  diet,  as  I  conceive  that  to  be  beneath 
the  serious  consideration  of  a  man  on  a  voyage  of  such 
a  nature.  We  spent  the  days  as  agreeably  as  could  be 
expected  from  men  in  our  situation.  Caught  a  bird  of 
a  new  species,  having  made  a  trap  for  him.  This  bird 
was  a  green  color,  almost  the  size  of  a  quail,  had  a  small 
tuft  on  its  head  like  a  pheasant,  and  was  of  the  carnivo- 
rous species;  it  differed  from  any  bird  we  ever  saw  in  the 
United  States.  We  kept  him  with  us  in  a  small  wicker 
cage,  feeding  him  on  meat,  until  I  left  the  interpreter  on 
the  Arkansas  with  whom  I  left  it.  We  at  one  time  took 
a  companion  of  the  same  species  and  put  them  in  the 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  231 

same  cage,  when  the  first  resident  never  ceased  attack- 
ing the  stranger  until  he  killed  him." 

From  this  Christmas  camp,  which  seems  to  have 
been  in  the  neighborhood  of  Brown  Canon,  not  far 
from  Salida,  Pike  and  his  party  began  the  descent  of 
the  Arkansas,  now  skirting  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  moun- 
tains to  which  he  alludes.  This  detour  made  by  Pike, 
Dr.  Robinson  and  his  men  through  South  Park  and  up 
to  the  headwaters  of  the  Arkansas  was  full  of  incredible 
suffering,  cold,  hunger,  and  terrible  fatigues  both  for  the 
men  and  their  horses.  But  of  this  the  diary,  from  the 
restraint  Pike  puts  upon  himself  in  personal  matters, 
gives  but  a  meagre  account.  These  perils  continued 
until  the  expedition  reached  the  old  camp  at  Canon 
City,  where  Pike  rejoined  his  men. 

"Dec.  26th.  Marched  at  two  o'clock,  and  made  7 
miles  to  the  entrance  of  the  mountains.  On  this  piece 
of  prairie  the  river  spreads  considerably  and  forms  sev- 
eral small  islands;  a  large  stream  enters  from  the  South. 
As  my  boy  and  some  others  were  sick,  I  omitted  pitching 
our  tent  in  order  that  they  might  have  it;  in  consequence 
of  which  we  were  completely  covered  with  snow  on  top, 
as  well  as  that  part  on  which  we  lay. 

"Dec.  2Jth.  Marched  over  an  extremely  rough  road; 
our  horses  received  frequent  falls,  and  cut  themselves 
considerably  on  the  rocks.  From  there  being  no  roads 
of  buffalo,  or  signs  of  horses,  I  am  convinced  that  neither 
those  animals,  nor  the  aborigines  of  the  country,  ever 
take  this  route,  to  go  from  the  source  of  the  river  to  the 
mountains;   but  that  they  must  cross  one  of  the  chains 


232  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

to  the  right  or  left,  and  find  a  smoother  tract  In  the 
lower  country.  Were  obliged  to  unload  our  horses, 
and  carry  our  baggage  at  several  places.  Distance  I2i 
miles. 

^' Sunday y  Dec.  zSth.  Marched  over  an  open  space; 
and  from  the  appearance  before  us  concluded  we  were 
going  out  of  the  mountains;  but  at  night  encamped  at 
the  entrance  of  the  most  perpendicular  precipices  on 
both  sides,  through  which  the  river  ran  and  our  course 
lay.     Distance  i6  miles. 

*^Dec.  2gth.  Marched;  but  owing  to  the  extreme 
ruggedness  of  the  road,  made  but  five  miles.  Saw  one 
of  a  new  species  of  animal  on  the  mountains;  ascended 
to  kill  him,  but  did  not  succeed.  Finding  the  impossi- 
bility of  getting  along  with  the  horses,  made  one  sled, 
with  which  the  men  of  three  horses  carry  the  load. 

"Dec.  -^oth.  Marched;  but  at  half  past  one  o*clock 
were  obliged  to  halt  and  send  back  for  sled  loads,  as 
the  men  had  broken  it  and  could  not  proceed,  owing  to 
the  waters  running  over  the  ice.  Crossed  our  horses 
twice  on  the  ice.     Distance  eight  miles. 

"Dec.  ^ist.  Marched;  had  frequently  to  cross  the 
river  on  the  ice;  horses  falling  down,  we  were  obliged 
to  pull  them  over  on  the  ice.  The  river  turned  so  much 
to  the  north  as  almost  induced  us  to  believe  it  was  the 
Arkansaw.     Distance  lof  miles. 

"Jan.  1st,  1807.  The  doctor  and  one  man  marched 
early,  in  order  to  precede  the  party  until  they  should  kill 
a  supply  of  provision.  We  had  great  difficulty  in  getting 
our  horses  along,  some  of  the  poor  animals  having  nearly 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  233 

killed  themselves  in  falling  on  the  ice.  Found  on  the 
way  one  of  the  mountain  rams,  which  the  doctor  and 
Brown  had  killed  and  left  in  the  road.  Skinned  it  with 
horns,  etc.  At  night  ascended  a  mountain,  and  dis- 
covered a  prairie  ahead  about  eight  miles,  the  news  of 
which  gave  great  joy  to  the  party. 

'^  Jan.  2d.  Labored  all  day,  but  made  only  one  mile; 
many  of  our  horses  were  much  wounded  in  falling  on 
the  rocks.  Provision  growing  short,  left  Stoute  and 
Miller  with  two  loads,  to  come  on  with  a  sled  on  the  ice, 
which  was  on  the  water  in  some  of  the  coves.  Finding 
it  almost  impossible  to  proceed  any  further  with  the 
horses  by  the  bed  of  the  river,  ascended  the  mountain 
and  immediately  after  were  again  obliged  to  descend  an 
almost  perpendicular  side  of  the  mountain;  in  effecting 
which,  one  horse  fell  down  the  precipice,  and  bruised 
himself  so  miserably  that  I  conceived  it  mercy  to  cause 
the  poor  animal  to  be  shot.  Many  others  were  nearly 
killed  with  falls  received.  Left  two  more  men  with 
loads,  and  tools  to  make  sleds.  The  two  men  we  had 
left  in  the  morning  had  passed  us. 

^^  Jan.  3^.  Left  two  more  men  to  make  sleds  and 
come  on.  We  pursued  the  river,  and  with  great  diffi- 
culty made  six  miles  by  frequently  cutting  roads  on  the 
ice,  and  covering  it  with  earth,  in  order  to  go  round 
precipices,  etc.  The  men  left  in  the  morning  encamped 
with  us  at  night;  but  those  of  the  day  before  we  saw 
nothing  of.  This  day  two  of  the  horses  became  sense- 
less from  the  bruises  received  on  the  rocks,  and  were 
obliged  to  be  left. 


234  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

''Sunday,  Jan.  \th.  We  made  the  prairie  about  three 
o'clock,  when  I  detached  Baroney  and  two  soldiers 
with  the  horses,  in  order  to  find  some  practicable  way 
for  them  to  get  out  of  the  mountains  light.  I  then  di- 
vided the  others  into  two  parties  of  two  men  each,  to 
make  sleds  and  bring  on  the  baggage.  I  determined  to 
continue  down  the  river  alone,  until  I  could  kill  some 
sustenance,  and  find  the  two  men  who  left  us  on  the 
2d  inst.,  or  the  doctor  and  his  companion;  for  we  had 
no  provision,  and  everyone  had  then  to  depend  on  his 
own  exertion  for  safety  and  subsistence.  Thus  we  were 
divided  into  eight  different  parties,  viz.:  1st.  The 
doctor  and  his  companion;  2d.  The  two  men  with  the 
first  sled;  3d.  The  interpreter  and  the  two  men  with 
the  horses;  4th.  Myself;  5th,  6th,  7th,  8th,  two  men 
each,  with  sleds  at  different  distances;  all  of  whom,  ex- 
cept the  last,  had  orders,  if  they  killed  any  game,  to 
secure  some  part  in  a  conspicuous  place,  for  their  com- 
panions in  the  rear.  I  marched  about  five  miles  on  the 
river,  which  was  one  continued  fall  through  a  narrow 
channel,  with  immense  cliffs  on  both  sides.  Near  night 
I  came  to  a  place  where  the  rocks  are  perpendicular  on 
both  sides,  and  there  was  no  ice,  except  a  narrow  border 
on  the  water.  I  began  to  look  about,  in  order  to  dis- 
cover which  way  the  doctor  and  his  companion  had 
managed,  and  to  find  out  what  had  become  of  the  two 
lads  with  the  first  sled,  when  I  discovered  one  of  the 
latter  climbing  up  the  side  of  the  rocks.  I  called  to  him; 
he  and  his  companion  immediately  joined  me.  They 
said  they  had  not  known  whether  we  were  before  or  in 


'LABORED   ALL   DAY,  BUT   MADE    ONLY   ONE   MILE.' 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  235 

the  rear;  they  had  eaten  nothing  for  the  last  two  days, 
and  that  this  night  they  had  intended  to  have  boiled  a 
deer-skin  to  subsist  on.  We  at  length  discovered  a 
narrow  ravine,  where  was  the  trace  of  the  doctor  and 
his  companion;  as  the  water  had  run  down  it  and 
frozen  hard,  it  was  one  continuous  sheet  of  ice.  We 
ascended  it  with  the  utmost  difficulty  and  danger,  loaded 
with  baggage.  On  the  summit  of  the  first  ridge  we 
found  an  encampment  of  the  doctor,  and  where  they 
had  killed  a  deer,  but  they  now  had  no  meat.  He  after- 
ward informed  me  that  they  had  left  the  greater  part 
hanging  on  a  tree,  but  supposed  the  birds  had  destroyed 
it.  I  left  the  boys  to  bring  up  the  remainder  of  the 
baggage,  and  went  out  to  kill  some  subsistence;  wounded 
a  deer,  but  the  darkness  of  the  night  approaching  could 
not  find  him.  I  returned  hungry,  weary,  dry,  and  had 
only  snow  to  supply  the  calls  of  nature.  Distance  8 
miles. 

^^  Jan.  yh.  I  went  out  in  the  morning  to  hunt,  while 
the  two  lads  were  bringing  up  some  of  their  loads  still 
left  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  Wounded  several  deer, 
but  was  surprised  to  find  that  I  killed  none.  On  ex- 
amining my  gun  discovered  her  bent,  owing,  as  I  sup- 
pose, to  some  fall  on  the  ice  or  rocks;  shortly  afterward 
received  a  fall  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  which  broke  her  off 
by  the  breach.  This  put  me  into  desespoir,  as  I  calcu- 
lated on  it  as  my  grandest  resource  for  the  greatest  part 
of  my  party;  returned  to  my  companions  sorely  fatigued 
and  hungry.  I  then  took  a  double-barreled  gun  and 
left  them,  with  assurances  that  the  first  animal  I  killed, 


236  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

I  would  return  with  part  for  their  relief.  About  ten 
o'clock  rose  the  highest  summit  of  the  mountain,  when 
the  unbounded  spaces  of  the  prairie  again  presented 
themselves  to  my  view;  and  from  some  distant  peaks  I 
immediately  recognized  it  to  be  the  outlet  of  the  Ar- 
kansaw  which  we  had  left  nearly  a  month  since.  This 
was  a  great  mortification;  but  at  the  same  time  I  con- 
soled myself  with  the  knowledge  I  had  acquired  of  the 
sources  of  La  Platte  and  Arkansas  rivers,  with  the  river 
to  the  northwest,  supposed  to  be  the  Pierre  Jaun,  which 
scarcely  any  person  but  a  madman  would  ever  purposely 
attempt  to  trace  further  than  the  entrance  of  those 
mountains  which  had  hitherto  secured  their  sources  from 
the  scrutinizing  eye  of  civilized  man. 

*'  I  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  and  bank  of 
the  river,  in  the  afternoon,  and  at  the  same  time  dis- 
covered, on  the  other  shore,  Baroney  with  the  horses; 
they  had  found  quite  an  eligible  pass  through,  and  had 
killed  one  buffalo  and  some  deer.  We  proceeded  to 
our  old  camp,  which  we  left  the  loth  of  December  and 
reoccupied  it.  Saw  the  traces  of  the  doctor  and  his 
companion  but  could  not  discover  their  retreat.  This 
was  my  birthday,  and  most  fervently  hope  never  to  pass 
another  so  miserably.  Fired  a  gun  off  as  a  signal  to  the 
doctor.     Distance  seven  miles. 

^^  Jan.  6th,  Dispatched  the  two  soldiers  back  with 
some  provision  to  rrieet  the  first  lads  and  assist  them  on 
and  sent  the  interpreter  hunting.  About  eight  o'clock 
the  doctor  came  in,  having  seen  some  of  the  men.  He 
had  been  confined  to  the  camp  for  one  or  two  days,  by 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  237 

a  vertigo  which  proceeded  from  some  berries  he  had 
eaten  on  the  mountains.  His  companion  brought  down 
six  deer,  which  they  had  at  their  camp;  thus  we  again 
began  to  be  out  of  danger  of  starving.  In  the  afternoon 
some  of  the  men  arrived  and  part  were  immediately  re- 
turned with  provisions,  etc.     Killed  three  deer. 

^^  Jan.  'jth.  Sent  more  men  back  to  assist  in  the  rear 
and  to  carry  the  poor  fellows  provisions;  at  the  same 
time  kept  Baroney  and  one  man  hunting.  Killed  three 
deer. 

^^  Jan.  Sth.  Some  of  the  different  parties  arrived. 
Put  one  man  to  stocking  my  rifle;  others  were  sent  back 
to  assist  up  the  rear.     Killed  two  deer. 

''Jan.  gth.  The  whole  party  were  once  more  joined 
together,  when  we  felt  comparatively  happy,  notwith- 
standing the  great  mortification  I  experienced  at  having 
been  so  egregiously  deceived  as  to  the  Red  river.  I 
now  felt  at  considerable  loss  how  to  proceed,  as  any  idea 
of  services  at  that  time  from  my  horses  was  entirely  pre- 
posterous. After  various  plans  formed  and  rejected, 
and  the  most  mature  deliberation,  I  determined  to  build 
a  small  place  for  defense  and  deposit;  leave  part  of  the 
baggage,  horses,  my  interpreter,  and  one  man;  and  with 
the  balance,  our  packs  of  Indian  presents,  ammuni- 
tion, tools,  etc.,  on  our  backs,  cross  the  mountains  on 
foot,  find  the  Red  river,  and  then  send  back  a  party  to 
conduct  the  horses  and  baggage  by  the  most  eligible 
route  we  could  discover;  by  which  time  the  horses 
would  be  so  recovered  as  to  be  able  to  endure  the  fatigues 
of  the  march.     In  consequence  of  this  determination, 


238  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

some  were  put  to  constructing  the  blockhouse,  some  to 
hunting,  some  to  taking  care  of  horses,  etc.  I  myself 
made  preparations  to  pursue  a  course  of  observations 
which  would  enable  me  to  ascertain  the  latitude  and 
longitude  of  this  situation,  which  I  conceived  to  be  an 
important  one.     Killed  three  deer." 

Thus  ended  this  perilous  journey,  unfortunately 
undertaken  in  midwinter.  None  of  the  parties  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  through  the  canon,  which  the  railroad 
has  now  made  so  familiar.  Pike  alone  attempted  the 
Royal  Gorge;  and  got  half  way  through,  but  failed  to 
get  further.  Scrambling  through  a  side  canon  to  the 
North  he  climbed  Noonan's  Peak  which  overlooks 
Canon  City,  and  from  there  discovered  his  old  camp. 
The  doctor  and  his  man  came  the  same  way;  while 
Baroney  with  the  horses  came  by  way  of  Webster  Park 
and  had  an  easier  journey.  It  was  three  days  before  all 
the  party  got  in.  In  Pike's  recapitulation  of  what  he 
had  accomplished,  he  is  mistaken  in  his  belief  that  he 
had  sighted  the  sources  of  the  Yellowstone.  The 
river  north  of  him  was  the  Grand  River,  the  Yellow- 
stone being  much  further  north. 

Four  days  were  now  occupied  in  preparing  for  the 
journey  southward,  and  by  Pike  in  making  his  obser- 
vations to  determine  his  position,  and  in  separating 
and  rearranging  his  baggage.  At  the  block-house  he 
determined  to  leave  one  man,  Patrick  Smith,  and  the 
faithful  Baroney,  whom  in  a  letter  to  General  Wilkin- 
son, Pike  calls  "one  of  the  finest  young  men,  I  ever 
knew  in  his  situation,"  and  "as  firm  an  American  as  if 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  239 

born  one."  On  January  14th  the  party,  consisting  of 
Pike,  Dr.  Robinson  and  twelve  soldiers,  each  carrying 
an  average  of  seventy  pounds,  started  up  Grape  Creek 
toward  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  mountains,  through  Wet 
Mountain  Valley  which  he  calls  Blue,  on  a  journey,  the 
perils  of  which  can  scarcely  be  realized  from  the  diary's 
meagre  statements. 

"/««.  i^ih.  Followed  up  this  branch,  and  passed 
up  the  main  ridge  of  what  I  term  the  Blue  mountains. 
Halted  early.  The  doctor,  myself,  and  one  hunter  went 
out  with  our  guns;  each  killed  a  deer,  and  brought  them 
into  camp.     Distance  19  miles. 

^^  Jan,  i6th.  Marched  up  the  creek  all  day.  En- 
camped early,  a?  it  was  snowing.  I  went  out  to  hunt, 
but  killed  nothing.  Deer  on  the  hill;  the  mountains 
lessening.     Distance  18  miles. 

"Jan.  ijth.  Marched  about  four  miles,  when  the 
great  White  mountain  presented  itself  before  us,  in  sight 
of  which  we  had  been  for  more  than  one  month,  and 
through  which  we  supposed  lay  the  long-sought  Red 
river.  We  now  left  the  creek  on  the  north  of  us,  and 
bore  away  more  east,  to  a  low  place  in  the  mountains. 
About  sunset  we  came  to  the  edge  of  a  prairie  which 
bounded  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  As  there  was  no 
wood  or  water  where  we  were,  and  the  woods  from  the 
skirts  of  the  mountains  appeared  to  be  at  no  great  dis- 
tance, I  thought  proper  to  march  for  it;  in  the  middle 
of  said  prairie  crossed  the  creek  which  now  bore  east. 
Here  we  all  got  our  feet  wet.  The  night  commenced 
extremely  cold,  when  we  halted  at  the  woods  at  eight 


240  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

o'clock,  for  encampment.  After  getting  fires  made,  we 
discovered  that  the  feet  of  nine  of  our  men  were  frozen; 
and,  to  add  to  this  misfortune,  both  of  those  whom  we 
called  hunters  were  among  the  number.  This  night  we 
had  no  provision.  Reaumur's  thermometer  stood  at 
i8j°  below  zero.     Distance  28  miles. 

*' Sunday,  Jan.  iSth.  We  started  two  of  the  men 
least  injured;  the  doctor  and  myself,  who  fortunately 
were  untouched  by  the  frost,  also  went  out  to  hunt 
something  to  preserve  existence.  Near  evening  we 
wounded  a  buffalo  with  three  balls,  but  had  the  morti- 
fication to  see  him  run  off  notwithstanding.  We  con- 
cluded it  was  useless  to  go  home  to  add  to  the  gen- 
eral gloom,  and  went  amongst  some  rocks,  where 
we  encamped  and  sat  up  all  night;  from  the  intense 
cold  it  was  impossible  to  sleep.  Hungry  and  without 
cover. 

''Jan.  igth.  We  again  took  the  field,  and  after 
crawling  about  one  mile  in  the  snow,  got  to  shoot  eight 
times  among  a  gang  of  buffalo;  we  could  plainly  per- 
ceive two  or  three  to  be  badly  wounded,  but  by  accident 
they  took  the  wind  of  us,  and  to  our  great  mortification 
all  were  able  to  run  off.  By  this  time  I  had  become  ex- 
tremely weak  and  faint,  it  being  the  fourth  day  since  we 
had  received  sustenance,  all  of  which  we  were  marching 
hard,  and  the  last  night  had  scarcely  closed  our  eyes  to 
sleep.  We  were  inclining  our  course  to  a  point  of  woods 
determined  to  remain  absent  and  die  by  ourselves  rather 
than  return  to  our  camp  and  behold  the  misery  of  our 
poor  lads,  when  we  discovered  a  gang  of  buffalo  com- 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  241 

ing  along  at  some  distance.  With  great  exertions  I 
made  out  to  run  and  place  myself  behind  some  cedars. 
By  the  greatest  of  good  luck,  the  first  shot  stopped  one, 
which  we  killed  in  three  more  shots;  and  by  the  dusk 
had  cut  each  of  us  a  heavy  load,  with  which  we  de- 
termined immediately  to  proceed  to  camp,  in  order  to 
relieve  the  anxiety  of  our  men  and  carry  the  poor  fel- 
lows some  food. 

**We  arrived  there  about  twelve  o'clock,  and  when  I 
threw  my  load  down,  it  was  with  difficulty  I  prevented 
myself  from  falling.  I  was  attacked  by  giddiness  of 
the  head  which  lasted  some  minutes.  On  the  counte- 
nances of  the  men  there  was  not  a  frown,  nor  a  despond- 
ing eye;  all  seemed  happy  to  hail  their  officer  and  com- 
panion, yet  not  a  mouthful  had  they  eaten  for  four 
days.  On  demanding  what  were  their  thoughts  the 
sergeant  replied  that  on  the  morrow  the  more  robust 
had  determined  to  set  out  in  search  of  us  and  not  re- 
turn unless  they  found  us,  or  killed  something  to  preserve 
the  lives  of  their  starving  companions. 

*'  Jan.  20th.  The  doctor  and  all  the  men  able  to 
march  returned  to  the  buffalo  to  bring  the  balance  of 
the  meat.  On  examining  the  feet  of  those  who  were 
frozen  we  found  it  impossible  for  two  of  them  to  proceed, 
and  two  others  only  without  loads,  by  the  help  of  a  stick. 
One  of  the  former  was  my  waiter,  a  promising  young 
lad  of  twenty,  whose  feet  were  so  badly  frozen  as  to 
present  every  possibility  of  losing  them.  The  doctor 
and  party  returned  toward  evening,  loaded  with  the 
buffalo  meat. 


242  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

^^ Jan.  2ist.  This  day  we  separated  the  four  loads 
which  we  intended  to  leave,  and  took  them  some  dis- 
tance from  camp,  where  we  secured  them.  I  went  up 
to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  to  see  what  prospect  there 
was  of  being  able  to  cross  it,  but  had  not  more  than 
fairly  arrived  at  its  base  when  I  found  the  snow  four  or 
five  feet  deep;  this  obliged  me  to  determine  to  proceed 
and  cotoyer  the  mountain  [keep  alongside  the  base  of  the 
Sangre  de  Cristo  range]  to  the  south,  where  it  appeared 
lower,  until  we  found  a  place  where  we  could  cross. 

''Jan.  22nd.  I  furnished  the  two  poor  lads,  who 
were  to  remain  with  ammunition,  made  use  of  every 
argument  in  my  power  to  encourage  them  to  have  forti- 
tude to  resist  their  fate,  and  gave  them  assurance  of 
my  sending  relief  as  soon  as  possible.  We  parted,  but 
not  without  tears. 

"We  pursued  our  march,  taking  merely  sufficient 
provisions  for  one  meal,  in  order  to  leave  as  much  as 
possible  for  the  two  poor  fellows  who  remained.  They 
were  John  Sparks  and  Thomas  Dougherty.  We  went 
on  eight  miles  and  encamped  on  a  Httle  creek,  which 
came  down  from  the  mountains.  At  three  o'clock  went 
out  to  hunt  but  killed  nothing.     Little  snow. 

*'  Jan.  2^rd.  After  showing  the  sergeant  a  point  to 
steer  for,  the  doctor  and  myself  proceeded  on  ahead  in 
hopes  to  kill  something,  as  we  were  again  without  vict- 
uals. About  one  o'clock  it  commenced  snowing  hard; 
we  retreated  to  a  small  copse  of  pine,  where  we  con- 
structed a  camp  to  shelter  us;  and,  as  it  was  time  the 
party  should  arrive,  we  sallied  forth  to  search  for  them. 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  243 

We  separated,  and  had  not  marched  more  than  one  or 
two  miles,  when  I  found  it  impossible  to  keep  my  course 
without  the  compass  continually  in  my  hand,  and  then 
was  not  able  to  see  more  than  10  yards.  I  began  to 
perceive  the  difficulty  even  of  finding  my  way  back  to 
camp;  and  I  can  scarcely  conceive  a  more  dreadful 
idea  than  remaining  on  the  wild,  where  inevitable 
death  must  have  ensued.  It  was  with  great  pleasure  I 
again  reached  camp,  where  I  found  the  doctor  had 
arrived  before  me.  We  lay  down  and  strove  to  dissi- 
pate the  ideas  of  hunger  and  misery  by  the  thought  of 
our  far  distant  homes  and  relatives.  Distance  eight 
miles. 

''Jan.  2\th,  We  sallied  out  in  the  morning,  and 
shortly  after  perceived  our  little  band  marching  through 
the  snow  about  two  feet  and  a  half  deep,  silent  and  with 
downcast  countenances.  We  joined  them  and  learned 
that,  finding  the  snow  to  fall  so  thickly  that  it  was  im- 
possible to  proceed,  they  had  encamped  about  one 
o'clock  the  preceding  day.  As  I  found  all  the  buffalo 
had  quit  the  plains,  I  determined  to  attempt  the  traverse 
of  the  mountain,  in  which  we  persevered  until  the  snow 
became  so  deep  that  it  was  impossible  to  proceed; 
when  I  again  turned  my  face  to  the  plain,  and  for  the 
first  time  in  the  voyage  found  myself  discouraged. 

"This  was  also  the  first  time  I  heard  a  man  express 
himself  in  a  seditious  manner;  he  exclaimed  that  it 
was  more  than  human  nature  could  bear,  to  march  three 
days  without  sustenance,  through  snows  three  feet  deep, 
and  carry  burdens  only  fit  for  horses,  etc.     As  I  knew 


244  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

very  well  the  fidelity  and  attachment  of  the  majority  of 
the  men,  and  even  of  this  poor  fellow  (only  he  could  not 
endure  fasting),  and  that  it  was  in  my  power  to  chastise 
him  when  I  thought  proper,  I  passed  it  unnoticed  for  the 
moment,  determined  to  notice  it  at  a  more  auspicious 
time. 

"We  dragged  our  weary  and  emaciated  hmbs  along 
until  about  ten  o'clock.  The  doctor  and  myself,  who 
were  in  advance,  discovered  some  buflPalo  on  the  plain, 
when  we  left  our  loads  on  the  snow,  and  gave  orders  to 
proceed  to  the  nearest  woods  to  encamp.  We  went  in 
pursuit  of  the  buffalo,  which  were  on  the  move.  The 
doctor,  who  was  then  less  reduced  than  myself,  ran  and 
got  behind  a  hill  and  shot  one  down,  which  stopped  the 
remainder.  We  crawled  up  to  the  dead  one  and  shot 
from  him  as  many  as  12  or  14  times  among  the  gang, 
when  they  removed  out  of  sight.  We  then  proceeded 
to  butcher  the  one  we  had  shot;  and  after  procuring 
each  of  us  a  load  of  the  meat,  we  marched  for  the  camp, 
the  smoke  of  which  was  in  view.  We  arrived  at  the 
camp,  to  the  great  joy  of  our  brave  lads,  who  immedi- 
ately feasted  sumptuously. 

"After  our  repast  I  sent  for  the  lad  who  had  pre- 
sumed to  speak  discontentedly  in  the  course  of  the  day, 
and  addressed  him  to  the  following  effect:  *  Brown, 
you  this  day  presumed  to  make  use  of  language  which 
was  seditious  and  mutinous.  I  then  passed  it  over,  pity- 
ing your  situation,  and  attributing  it  to  your  distress 
rather  than  your  inclination  to  sow  discontent  among  the 
party.     Had  I  reserved  provisions  for  ourselves,  while 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  245 

you  were  starving;  had  we  been  marching  along  Hght 
and  at  our  ease,  while  you  were  weighed  down  with 
your  burden;  then  you  would  have  had  some  pretext 
for  your  observations.  But  when  we  were  equally 
hungry,  weary,  emaciated,  and  charged  with  burdens 
which  I  believe  my  natural  strength  is  less  able  to  bear 
than  any  man's  in  the  party;  when  we  were  always 
foremost  in  breaking  the  road,  in  reconnoitering,  and 
in  the  fatigues  of  the  chase,  it  was  the  height  of  ingrati- 
tude in  you  to  let  an  expression  escape  which  was  indica- 
tive of  discontent.  Your  ready  compliance  and  firm 
perseverance  I  had  reason  to  expect,  as  the  leader  of 
men  and  my  companion  in  miseries  and  dangers.  But 
your  duty  as  a  soldier  called  on  your  obedience  to  your 
officer,  and  a  prohibition  of  such  language,  which  for 
this  time  I  will  pardon;  but  assure  you,  should  it  ever 
be  repeated,  by  instant  death  will  I  avenge  your  in- 
gratitude and  punish  your  disobedience.  I  take  this 
opportunity  likewise  to  assure  you,  soldiers  generally, 
of  my  thanks  for  the  obedience,  perseverance,  and 
ready  contempt  of  every  danger  which  you  have  gener- 
ally evinced.  I  assure  you  nothing  shall  be  wanting, 
on  my  part,  to  procure  you  the  rewards  of  our  govern- 
ment and  the  gratitude  of  your  countrymen.'  They 
all  appeared  very  much  affected,  and  retired  with  as- 
surances of  perseverance  in  duty,  etc.  Distance  nine 
miles. 

^^  Sunday,  Jan.  2^th.  I  determined  never  to  march 
again  with  so  little  provision  on  hand;  as,  had  the 
storm  continued  one  day  longer,  the  animals  would 


246  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

have  continued  in  the  mountains;  we  would  have  be- 
come so  weak  as  not  to  be  able  to  hunt,  and  of  course 
have  perished.  The  doctor  went  out  with  the  boys, 
and  they  secured  three  of  the  buffalo;  we  commenced 
bringing  in  the  meat,  at  which  we  continued  all  day. 

''Jan.  26th.  Got  in  all  the  meat  and  dried  it  on  a 
scaffold,  intending  to  take  as  much  as  possible  along, 
and  leave  one  of  my  frozen  lads  with  the  balance,  as 
a  deposit  for  the  parties  who  might  return  for  their  bag- 
gage, etc.,  on  their  way  back  to  Baroney's  camp. 

''Jan.  2Jth.  We  marched  determined  to  cross  the 
mountains,  leaving  Menagh  encamped  with  our  deposit. 
After  a  bad  day's  march  through  snows,  in  some  places 
three  feet  deep,  we  struck  a  brook  which  led  west. 
This  I  followed  down,  and  shortly  came  to  a  small 
stream,  running  west,  which  we  hailed  with  fervency 
as  the  waters  of  Red  river.  Saw  some  sign  of  elk.  Dis- 
tance 14  miles. 

"Jan.  zSth.  Followed  down  the  ravine  and  dis- 
covered after  some  time  that  a  road  had  been  cut  out; 
on  many  trees  were  hieroglyphics  painted.  After  march- 
ing some  miles,  we  discovered  through  the  lengthy 
vista  at  a  distance,  another  chain  of  mountains;  and 
near  by  at  the  foot  of  the  White  mountains  which  we 
were  then  descending,  sandy  hills.  We  marched  on 
the  outlet  of  the  mountains,  left  the  sandy  desert  to  our 
right,  and  kept  down  between  it  and  the  mountain. 
When  we  encamped,  I  ascended  one  of  the  largest  hills 
of  sand,  and  with  my  glass  could  discover  a  large  river 
flowing  through  the  plain.     This  river  came  out  of  the 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  247 

third  chain  of  mountains,  the  prairie  between  the  two 
mountains  bore  nearly  N.  and  S.  I  returned  to  camp 
with  the  news  of  my  discovery.  The  sand-hills  ex- 
tended up  and  down  the  foot  of  the  White  mountains 
about  15  miles,  and  appeared  to  be  about  five  miles  in 
width.  Their  appearance  was  exactly  that  of  the  sea 
in  a  storm,  except  as  to  color,  not  the  least  sign  of  vege- 
tation existing  thereon.     Distance  15  miles." 

The  exact  route  Pike  took  in  crossing  the  Sangre  de 
Cristo  range,  which  he  calls  the  White  Mountains,  has 
been  a  matter  of  discussion,  as  there  are  several  passes  he 
might  have  taken.  A  close  study  of  the  diary,  and  his 
mileage  seems  to  warrant  determining  that  it  was  near 
Blumenau  in  Fremont  County  that  he  left  the  unfort- 
unate Sparks  and  Dougherty.  Crossing  over  into 
Custer  County  he  camped  near  the  present  town  of 
Silver  Cliff.  Skirting  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Mountains 
he  crosses  the  divide  into  Huerfano  County,  where  he 
comes  upon  the  Huerfano  River,  and  camps.  From 
here  everything  points  to  the  inference  that  he  made  the 
Sand  Hill  or  Medano  Pass,  as  it  is  variously  called,  de- 
scending into  the  San  Luis  Valley,  whence  he  comes 
upon  the  Dunes,  which  he  alludes  to  above  as  "the 
sandy  hills,"  and  discovers  with  his  glass  in  the  distance 
the  Rio  Grande. 

''Jan.  2gth.  Finding  the  distance  too  great  to  attempt 
crossing  immediately  to  the  river,  in  a  direct  line,  we 
marched  obliquely  to  a  copse  of  woods,  which  made 
down  a  considerable  distance  from  the  mountains. 
Saw  sign  of  horses.     Distance  17  miles. 


248  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"Jan,  '7,1st.  As  there  was  no  timber  here  we  deter- 
mined on  descending  until  we  found  timber,  in  order 
to  make  transports  to  descend  the  river  with,  where  we 
might  establish  a  position  that  four  or  five  might  defend 
against  the  insolence,  cupidity  and  barbarity  of  the 
savages,  while  the  others  returned  to  assist  the  poor 
fellows  who  had  been  left  behind  at  various  points. 
We  descended  18  miles,  when  we  met  a  large  west 
branch  emptying  into  the  main  stream,  about  five  miles 
up  which  branch  we  took  our  station.  Killed  one  deer. 
Distance  18  miles. 

**  Sunday,  Feb.  1st.  Laid  out  the  place  for  our  works 
and  went  out  hunting. 

''Feb.  ^th.  The  doctor  and  myself  went  out  to  hunt. 
After  chasing  some  deer  for  several  hours,  without  suc- 
cess, we  ascended  a  high  hill  which  lay  south  of  cur 
camp,  whence  we  had  a  view  of  all  the  prairies  and 
rivers  to  the  north  of  us.  It  was  at  the  same  time  one 
of  the  most  sublime  and  beautiful  inland  prospects  ever 
presented  to  the  eyes  of  man.  The  prairie,  lying  nearly 
north  and  south,  was  probably  60  miles  by  45.  The 
main  river,  bursting  out  of  the  western  mountain,  and 
meeting  from  the  northeast  a  large  branch  which  divides 
the  chain  of  mountains,  proceeds  down  the  prairie, 
making  many  large  and  beautiful  islands,  one  of  which 
I  judge  contains  100,000  acres  of  land,  all  meadow 
ground,  covered  with  innumerable  herds  of  deer. 
About  six  miles  from  the  mountains  which  cross  the 
prairie  at  the  south  end,  a  branch  of  12  steps  wide  pays 
its  tribute  to  the  main  stream  from  the  west  course. 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  249 

Four  miles  below  is  a  stream  of  the  same  size,  which 
enters  on  the  east  and  up  which  was  a  large  road;  its 
general  course  is  N.  65°  E.  From  the  entrance  of  this 
was  about  three  miles,  down  to  the  junction  of  the  west 
fork,  which  waters  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the  north, 
while  the  main  river  wound  along  its  meanders  on  the 
east.  In  short,  this  view  combined  the  sublime  and  the 
beautiful.  The  great  and  lofty  mountains,  covered 
with  eternal  snows,  seemed  to  surround  the  luxuriant 
vale,  crowned  with  perennial  flowers,  like  a  terrestrial 
paradise  shut  out  from  the  view  of  man. 

*'Feh.  6th.  The  doctor,  having  some  pecuniary  de- 
mands in  the  province  of  New  Mexico,  conceived  this  to 
be  the  most  eligible  point  for  him  to  go  in,  and  return 
previous  to  all  my  party  having  joined  me  from  the 
Arkansaw,  and  that  I  was  prepared  to  descend  to  Nachi- 
toches.  He  therefore  this  day  made  his  preparations 
for  marching  to-morrow.  I  went  out  hunting,  and 
killed  at  three  miles'  distance  a  deer  which,  with  great 
difliculty,  I  brought  in  whole.  We  continued  to  go  on 
with  the  works  of  our  stockade  or  breastwork,  which 
was  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  west  branch, 
about  five  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  main  river, 
and  was  on  a  strong  plan. 

"The  stockade  was  situated  in  a  small  prairie  on  the 
west  fork  of  the  Rio  del  Norte.  The  south  flank  joined 
the  edge  of  the  river,  which  at  that  place  was  not  ford- 
able;  the  east  and  west  curtains  were  flanked  by  bas- 
tions in  the  northeast  and  northwest  angles,  which  like- 
wise flanked  the  curtain  of  the  north  side  of  the  work. 


250  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

The  stockade  from  the  center  of  the  angle  of  the  bas- 
tions was  36  feet  square.  Heavy  cottonwood  logs,  about 
two  feet  in  diameter,  were  laid  up  all  around  about  six 
feet,  after  which  lighter  ones,  until  we  made  it  12 
feet  in  height;  these  logs  were  joined  together  by  a  lap 
of  about  two  feet  at  each  end.  We  then  dug  a  small 
^ditch  on  the  inside  on  the  internal  side  and  sloping  next 
the  work.  In  this  ditch  we  planted  small  stakes,  about 
six  inches  in  diameter,  sharpened  at  the  upper  end  to  a 
nice  point,  and  slanted  them  over  the  top  of  the  work, 
giving  them  about  2  feet  projection.  We  then  secured 
them  above  and  below  in  that  position,  which  formed 
a  small  pointed  frise,  which  must  have  been  removed 
before  the  works  could  be  scaled.  Lastly  we  had  dug 
a  ditch  round  the  whole,  four  feet  wide,  and  let  the 
water  in  all  round.  The  earth  taken  out,  being  thrown 
against  the  work  formed  an  excellent  rampart  against 
small-arms  three  or  four  feet  high.  Our  mode  of  get- 
ting in  was  to  crawl  over  the  ditch  on  a  plank,  and  into 
a  small  hole  sunk  below  the  level  of  the  work  near  the 
river  for  that  purpose.  Our  port-holes  were  pierced 
about  eight  feet  from  the  ground,  and  a  platform  was 
prepared  to  shoot  from.  Thus  fortified  I  should  not 
have  had  the  least  hesitation  of  putting  100  Spanish 
horse  at  defiance,  until  the  second  night,  and  then  to 
have  made  our  escape  under  cover  of  the  darkness;  or 
made  a  sally  and  dispersed  them,  when  resting  under 
a  full  confidence  of  our  being  panic-struck  by  their 
numbers  and  force." 

There  have  been  many  differences  of  opinion  concern- 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  251 


ing  the  precise  location  of  Pike's  stockade.  He  seems 
after  skirting  the  Sierra  Blanco  to  have  struck  the  Rio 
Grande,  which  he  thinks  is  the  Red  River,  near  Ala- 
mosa, where  he  halted.  Finding  no  timber  he  marched 
down  the  west  bank  until  he  came  to  the  Rio  Conejos, 
which  he  calls  "the  large  west  branch."  Here  opposite 
Ojo  Caliente,  or  hot  spring,  he  built  his  fort,  the  moat 
of  which,  according  to  one  of  the  older  inhabitants,  as 
late  as  1894,  could  be  still  seen. 

''Feb,  Jth.  The  doctor  marched  alone  for  Santa  Fe; 
and  as  it  was  uncertain  whether  this  gentleman  would 
ever  join  me  again,  I  at  that  time  committed  to  paper 
the  following  testimonial  of  respect  for  his  good  quali- 
ties, which  I  do  not  at  this  time  feel  any  disposition  to 
efface.  He  had  had  the  benefit  of  a  liberal  education, 
without  having  spent  his  time,  as  too  many  of  our  gen- 
tlemen do  in  college,  in  skimming  on  the  surface  of 
sciences,  without  ever  endeavoring  to  make  themselves 
masters  of  the  solid  foundations.  Robinson  studied  and 
reasoned;  with  these  qualifications  he  possessed  a  lib- 
erality of  mind  too  great  ever  to  reject  an  hypothesis 
because  it  was  not  agreeable  to  the  dogmas  of  the 
schools;  or  adopt  it  because  it  had  all  the  eclat  of 
novelty.  His  soul  could  conceive  great  actions,  and  his 
hand  was  ready  to  achieve  them;  in  short,  it  may  truly 
be  said  that  nothing  was  above  his  genius,  nor  any- 
thing so  minute  that  he  conceived  it  entirely  unworthy 
of  consideration.  As  a  gentleman  and  companion  in 
dangers,  difficulties,  and  hardships,  I  in  particular,  and 
the  expedition  generally,  owe  much  to  his  exertions. 


252  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"The  demands  which  Dr.  Robinson  had  on  per- 
sons in  New  Mexico,  although  legitimate,  were  in  some 
degree  spurious  in  his  hands.  The  circumstances  were 
as  follows:  In  the  year  1804,  William  Morrison,  Esq., 
an  enterprising  merchant  of  Kaskaskias,  sent  a  man  by 
the  name  of  Baptiste  LaLande,  a  Creole  of  the  country, 
up  the  Missouri  and  La  Platte,  directing  him  if  possible 
to  push  into  Santa  Fe.  He  sent  Indians  and  the  Span- 
iards came  out  with  horses  and  carried  him  and  his 
goods  into  the  province.  Finding  that  he  sold  the  goods 
high,  had  land  offered  him,  and  the  women  kind,  he 
concluded  to  expatriate  himself,  and  convert  the  prop- 
erty of  Morrison  to  his  own  benefit.  When  I  was  about 
to  sail,  Morrison,  conceiving  that  it  was  possible  that  I 
might  meet  some  Spanish  factors  on  the  Red  river,  in- 
trusted me  with  the  claim,  in  order,  if  they  were  ac- 
quainted with  LaLande,  I  might  negotiate  the  thing 
with  some  of  them.  When  on  the  frontiers,  the  idea 
suggested  itself  to  us  of  making  this  claim  a  pretext  for 
Robinson  to  visit  Santa  Fe.  We  therefore  gave  it  the 
proper  appearance,  and  he  marched  for  that  place. 
Our  views  were  to  gain  a  knowledge  of  the  country  the 
prospect  of  trade,  force,  etc.;  while,  at  the  same  time 
our  treaties  with  Spain  guaranteed  to  him,  as  a  citizen 
of  the  United  States,  the  right  of  seeking  the  recovery  of 
all  just  debts  or  demands  before  the  legal  and  author- 
ized tribunals  of  the  country,  as  a  franchised  inhabitant 
of  the  same,  as  specified  in  the  22d  article  of  said  treaty. 

"  In  the  evening  I  dispatched  Corporal  Jackson  with 
four  men,  to  recross  the  mountains,  in  order  to  bring  in 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  253 

the  baggage  left  with  the  frozen  lads,  and  to  see  if  they 
were  yet  able  to  come  on.  This  detachment  left  me 
with  four  men  only,  two  of  whom  had  their  feet  frozen; 
they  were  employed  in  finishing  the  stockade,  and  my- 
self to  support  them  by  the  chase. 

**  Sunday,  Feb.  Sth.  Refreshing  my  memory  as  to 
the  French  grammar,  and  overseeing  the  works. 

"Feb.  i^th.  Crossed  the  river  and  examined  the 
numerous  springs  which  issued  from  the  foot  of  the 
hill,  opposite  our  camp.  These  were  so  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  mineral  qualities,  as  not  only  to  keep 
clear  of  ice  previous  to  their  joining  the  main  branch, 
but  to  keep  open  the  west  fork  until  its  junction  with  the 
main  river  and  for  a  few  miles  afterward,  while  all  the 
other  branches  in  the  neighborhood  were  bound  in  the 
adamantine  chains  of  winter. 

"Feb.  i6th.     I  took  one  man  and  went  out  hunting; 
about  six  miles  from  the  post,  shot  and  wounded  a 
deer. 

"Immediately  afterward  I  discovered  two  horsemen 
rising  the  summit  of  a  hill,  about  half  a  mile  to  our  right. 
As  my  orders  were  to  avoid  giving  alarm  or  offense  to 
the  Spanish  government  of  New  Mexico,  I  endeavored 
to  avoid  them  at  first;  but  when  we  attempted  to  retreat, 
they  pursued  us  at  full  charge,  flourishing  their  lances; 
and  when  we  advanced  they  would  retire  as  fast  as  their 
horses  could  carry  them.  Seeing  this,  we  got  in  a  small 
ravine,  in  hopes  to  decoy  them  near  enough  to  oblige 
them  to  come  to  a  parley;  which  happened  agreeably 
to  our  desires,  as  they  came  on,  hunting  us  with  great 


254  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

caution.  We  suffered  them  to  get  within  40  yards — 
where  we  had  allured  them;  but  they  were  about  run- 
ning off  again,  when  I  ordered  the  soldier  to  lay  down 
his  arms  and  walk  toward  them,  at  the  same  time  stand- 
ing ready  with  my  rifle  to  kill  either  who  should  lift  an 
arm  in  an  hostile  manner.  I  then  hollowed  to  them 
that  we  were  'Americans,'  and  'friends,'  which  were 
almost  the  only  two  words  I  knew  in  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage; when,  with  great  signs  of  fear,  they  came  up, 
and  proved  to  be  a  Spanish  dragoon  and  a  civilized 
Indian,  armed  after  their  manner,  of  which  we  see  a 
description  in  the  Essai  Militaire.  We  were  jealous  of 
our  arms  on  both  sides,  and  acted  with  great  precaution. 

"They  informed  me  that  this  was  the  fourth  day 
since  they  had  left  Santa  Fe;  that  Robinson  had  ar- 
rived there,  and  been  received  with  great  kindness  by  the 
governor.  As  I  knew  them  to  be  spies,  I  thought  proper 
to  inform  them  merely  that  I  was  about  to  descend  the 
river  to  Nachitoches.  We  sat  on  the  ground  a  long 
time,  till,  finding  they  were  determined  not  to  leave  us, 
we  rose  and  bid  them  adieu.  But  they  demanded  where 
our  camp  was;  and,  finding  they  were  not  about  to 
leave  us,  I  thought  it  most  proper  to  take  them  with  me, 
thinking  we  were  on  Red  river,  and  of  course  in  the  ter- 
ritory claimed  by  the  United  States. 

"We  took  the  road  to  my  fort,  and  as  they  were  on 
horse-back,  they  traveled  rather  faster  than  myself; 
they  were  halted  by  the  sentinel,  and  immediately  re- 
treated much  surprised.  When  I  came  up,  I  took  them 
in  and  explained  to  them,  as  well  as  possible,  my  in- 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  255 

tention  of  descending  the  river  to  Nachitoches;  but  at 
the  same  time,  I  told  them  that  if  Governor  Allencaster 
w^ould  send  out  an  officer  v^ith  an  interpreter  who  spoke 
French  or  English,  I  would  do  myself  the  pleasure  to 
give  his  Excellency  every  reasonable  satisfaction  as  to 
my  intention  in  coming  to  his  frontiers.  They  informed 
me  on  the  second  they  would  be  in  Santa  Fe,  but  were 
careful  never  to  suggest  an  idea  of  my  being  on  the  Rio 
del  Norte,  as  they  concluded  I  did  not  think  as  I  spoke. 
They  were  very  anxious  to  ascertain  our  numbers, 
etc.;  seeing  only  five  men  here,  they  could  not  be- 
lieve we  came  without  horses.  To  this  I  did  not  think 
proper  to  give  them  any  satisfaction,  giving  them  to 
understand  we  were  in  many  parties,  etc. 

''Feb.  lyth.  In  the  morning,  our  two  Spanish  visitors 
departed,  after  I  had  made  them  some  trifling  presents, 
with  which  they  seemed  highly  delighted.  After  their 
departure,  we  commenced  working  at  our  little  stockade, 
as  I  thought  it  probable  the  governor  might  dispute 
my  right  to  descend  the  Red  river,  and  send  out  In- 
dians, or  some  light  party,  to  attack  us;  I  therefore  de- 
termined to  be  as  much  prepared  to  receive  them  as 
possible. 

"This  evening  the  corporal  and  three  of  the  men  ar- 
rived, who  had  been  sent  back  to  the  camp  of  the  frozen 
lads.  They  informed  me  that  the  two  men  would  ar- 
rive the  next  day,  one  of  whom  was  Menaugh,  who  had 
been  left  alone  on  the  27th  of  January;  but  that  the 
other  two,  Dougherty  and  Sparks,  were  unable  to  come 
in.     They  said  that  they  had  hailed  them  with  tears  of 


256  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

joy,  and  were  in  despair  when  they  again  left  them, 
with  the  chance  of  never  seeing  them  more.  They  sent 
on  to  me  some  of  the  bones  taken  out  of  their  feet,  and 
conjured  me,  by  all  that  was  sacred,  not  to  leave  them  to 
perish  far  from  the  civilized  world.  Ah!  little  did  they 
know  my  heart,  if  they  could  suspect  me  of  conduct  so 
ungenerous.  No!  before  they  should  be  left,  I  would 
for  months  have  carried  the  end  of  a  litter,  in  order  to 
secure  them  the  happiness  of  once  more  seeing  their 
native  homes,  and  being  received  in  the  bosom  of  a 
grateful  country.  Thus  those  poor  lads  are  to  be  in- 
valids for  life,  made  infirm  at  the  commencement  of 
manhood  and  in  the  prime  of  their  course,  doomed  to 
pass  the  remainder  of  their  days  in  misery  and  want. 
For  what  is  a  pension  ^  Not  sufficient  to  buy  a  man  his 
victuals.  What  man  would  even  lose  the  smallest  of 
his  joints  for  such  a  pittance .? 

"Feb.  iSth.  The  other  two  boys,  Menaugh  and  the 
fourth  member  of  the  relief  party  arrived.  In  the  even- 
ing I  ordered  the  Sergeant  and  one  man  to  prepare  to 
march  to-morrow  for  the  Arkansas,  where  we  had  left 
our  interpreter,  horses,  etc.,  to  conduct  them  on,  and 
on  his  return  to  bring  the  two  lads,  who  were  still  in 
the  mountains. 

''Feb.  igth.  Sergeant  William  Meek  marched  with 
one  man  whose  name  was  Theodore  Miller,  and  I  took 
three  men  to  accompany  them  some  distance  in  order  to 
point  out  to  him  a  pass  in  the  mountain  which  I  con- 
ceived to  be  more  eligible  for  horses  than  the  one  by 
which  we  came.     I  must  here  remark  the  effect  of  habit, 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  257 

discipline,  and  example,  in  two  soldiers  soliciting  a 
command  of  more  than  180  miles,  over  two  great  ridges 
of  mountains  covered  with  snow,  inhabited  by  bands  of 
unknown  savages,  in  the  interest  of  a  nation  with  which 
we  were  not  on  the  best  understanding.  To  perform  this 
journey,  each  had  about  ten  pounds  of  venison.  Only 
let  me  ask.  What  would  our  soldiers  generally  think  on 
being  ordered  on  such  a  tour,  thus  equipped  ?  Yet 
those  men  volunteered  it  with  others,  and  were  chosen; 
for  which  they  thought  themselves  highly  honored. 
We  accompanied  them  about  six  miles,  and  pointed  out 
the  pass  alluded  to,  in  a  particular  manner.  But  the 
corporal  afterward  reported  that  the  new  one  I  obliged 
him  to  take  was  impassible,  he  having  been  three  days 
in  the  snows  nearly  middle  deep. 

"We  then  separated  and,  having  killed  a  deer,  sent 
one  of  the  men  back  to  the  fort  with  it.  With  the 
other  two,  I  kept  on  my  exploring  trip  down  the  river  on 
the  east  side,  at  some  leagues  from  its  banks,  intending 
to  return  up  it.  At  nine  o'clock  at  night  we  encamped 
on  a  small  creek  which  emptied  into  the  river  from  a 
nearly  due  east  course. 

''Feb.  20th.  We  marched  down  the  river  for  a  few 
hours;  but,  seeing  no  fresh  signs  of  persons,  or  any 
other  object  to  attract  our  attention,  took  up  our  route 
for  the  fort.  Discovered  the  signs  of  horses  and  men 
on  the  shore.  We  arrived  after  night  and  found  all 
well. 

"Feb.  21  St.  As  I  was  suspicious  that  possibly  some 
party  of  Indians  might  be  harboring  round,  I  gave  par- 


258  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

ticular  orders  to  my  men,  if  they  discovered  any  people, 
to  endeavor  to  retreat  undiscovered;  but,  if  not,  never 
to  run,  and  not  suffer  themselves  to  be  disarmed  or 
taken  prisoners,  but  conduct  whatever  party  discovered 
them,  if  they  could  not  escape,  to  the  fort. 

^^  Sunday,  Feb.  22d.  As  I  was  beginning  to  think  it 
was  time  we  received  a  visit  from  the  Spaniards  or  their 
emissaries,  I  estabhshed  a  lookout  guard  on  the  top  of 
the  hill  all  day,  and  at  night  a  sentinel  in  a  bastion  on 
the  land  side.  Studying,  reading,  working  at  our  ditch 
to  bring  the  river  round  the  works. 

''Feb.  2^th.  Took  one  man  with  me  and  went  out 
on  the  Spanish  road  hunting;  killed  one  deer  and 
wounded  several  others.  As  we  were  a  great  distance 
from  the  fort,  we  encamped  near  the  road  all  night. 
Saw  several  signs  of  horses. 

''Feb,  2yh.  Killed  two  more  deer,  when  we  marched 
for  our  post.  Took  all  three  of  our  deer  with  us,  and 
arrived  about  nine  o'clock  at  night,  as  much  fatigued  as 
I  ever  was  in  my  life.  Our  arrival  dissipated  the  anxi- 
ety of  the  men,  who  began  to  be  apprehensive  we  were 
taken  or  killed  by  some  of  the  savages. 

''Feb.  26th.  In  the  morning  was  apprized  of  the 
approach  of  strangers  by  the  report  of  a  gun  from  my 
lookout  guard.  Immediately  afterward  two  French- 
men arrived.  My  sentinel  halted  them,  and  ordered 
them  to  be  admitted,  after  some  questions.  They  in- 
formed me  that  his  Excellency,  Governor  Allencaster, 
had  heard  it  was  the  intention  of  the  Utah  Indians  to 
attack  me;  had  detached  an  officer  with  50  dragoons  to 


V 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  259 

come  out  and  protect  me;  and  that  they  would  be  here 
in  two  days.  To  this  I  made  no  reply:  but  shortly  after 
the  party  came  in  sight,  to  the  number,  as  I  afterward 
learned,  of  50  dragoons  and  50  mounted  militia  of  the 
province,  armed  in  the  same  manner  with  lances,  esco- 
pates  (guns),  and  pistols.  My  sentinel  halted  them  at  the 
distance  of  about  50  yards.  I  had  the  works  manned. 
I  thought  it  most  proper  to  send  out  the  two  Frenchmen 
to  inform  the  commanding  officer  that  it  was  my  re- 
quest he  should  leave  his  party  in  the  small  copse  of 
woods  where  he  was  halted,  and  that  I  would  meet  him 
myself  in  the  prairie  in  which  our  work  was  situated. 
This  I  did,  with  my  sword  on  me  only.  I  was  then  in- 
troduced to  Don  Ignatio  Saltelo  and  Don  Bartholemew 
Fernandez,  two  Heutenants,  the  former  the  commandant 
of  the  party.  I  gave  them  an  invitation  to  enter  the 
works,  but  requested  the  troops  might  remain  where 
they  were.  This  was  complied  with.  When  they 
came  round  and  discovered  that  to  enter  they  were 
obliged  to  crawl  on  their  bellies  over  a  small  draw- 
bridge, they  appeared  astonished,  but  entered  without 
further  hesitation. 

"We  first  breakfasted  on  deer,  meal,  goose,  and  some 
biscuit  which  the  civilized  Indian  who  came  out  as  a 
spy  had  brought  me.  After  breakfast  the  commanding 
officer  addressed  me  as  follows: 

Sir,  the  governor  of  New  Mexico,  being  informed 
you  had  missed  your  route,  ordered  me  to  offer  you, 
in  his  name,  mules,  horses,  money,  or  whatever  you 
might  stand  in  need  of  to  conduct  you  to  the  head  of 


26o  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Red  river;  as  from  Santa  Fe  to  where  it  is  sometimes 
navigable  is  eight  days'  journey,  and  we  have  guides  and 
the  routes  of  the  traders  to  conduct  us.' 

"  'What,'  said  I,  interrupting  him,  *is  not  this  the 
Red  river?' 

"'No,  Sir!     The  Rio  del  Norte.' 

"I  immediately  ordered  my  flag  to  be  taken  down 
and  rolled  up,  feeling  how  sensibly  I  had  committed 
myself  in  entering  their  territory,  and  conscious  that 
they  must  have  positive  orders  to  take  me  in. 

"He  now  added  that  he  had  provided  lOO  mules 
and  horses  to  take  in  my  party  and  baggage,  and  how 
anxious  his  Excellency  was  to  see  me  at  Santa  Fe.  I 
stated  to  him  the  absence  of  my  sergeant,  the  situation 
of  the  balance  of  the  party,  and  that  my  orders  would 
not  justify  my  entering  into  the  Spanish  territory.  He 
urged  still  further,  until  I  began  to  feel  myself  a  little 
heated  in  the  argument;  and  told  him,  in  a  peremptory 
style,  that  I  would  not  go  until  the  arrival  of  my  sergeant 
with  the  balance  of  the  party.  He  replied,  that  there 
was  not  the  least  restraint  to  be  used;  that  it  was  only 
necessary  his  Excellency  should  receive  an  explanation 
of  my  business  on  his  frontier;  that  I  could  go  now, 
or  on  the  arrival  of  my  party;  that,  if  none  went  in  at 
present,  he  should  be  obliged  to  send  in  for  provisions; 
but  that,  if  I  would  now  march,  he  would  leave  an 
Indian  interpreter  and  an  escort  of  dragoons  to  conduct 
the  sergeant  into  Santa  Fe.  His  mildness  induced  me 
to  tell  him  that  I  would  march,  but  must  leave  two  men 
to  meet  the  sergeant  and  party,  to  instruct  him  as  to 


In  the  Mountains  of  Colorado  261 

coming  in,  as  he  never  would  come  without  a  fight,  if 
not  ordered. 

"I  was  induced  to  consent  to  this  measure  by  the 
conviction  that  the  officer  had  positive  orders  to  bring 
me  in;  and  as  I  had  no  orders  to  commit  hostilities,  and 
indeed  had  committed  myself,  although  innocently,  by 
violating  their  territory,  I  conceived  it  would  appear 
better  to  show  a  will  to  come  to  an  explanation  than  to 
be  any  way  constrained;  yet  my  situation  was  so  eligible, 
and  I  could  so  easily  have  put  them  at  defiance,  that  it 
was  with  great  reluctance  I  suffered  all  our  labor  to  be 
lost  without  trying  the  efficacy  of  it.  My  compliance 
seemed  to  spread  general  joy  through  the  party,  as 
soon  as  it  was  communicated;  but  it  appeared  to  be 
different  with  my  men,  who  wished  to  have  a  "little 
dust'*  as  they  expressed  themselves,  and  were  likewise 
fearful  of  treachery. 

"My  determination  being  once  taken,  I  gave  per- 
mission for  the  Spanish  lieutenant's  men  to  come  to 
the  outside  of  the  works,  and  some  of  mine  to  go  out- 
side and  see  them.  The  hospitality  and  goodness  of  the 
Creoles  and  Metifs  began  to  manifest  itself  by  their 
producing  their  provision  and  giving  it  to  my  men, 
covering  them  with  blankets,  etc. 

"After  writing  my  orders  to  my  sergeant,  and  leaving 
them  with  my  corporal,  and  one  private  named  Carter, 
who  were  to  remain,  we  sallied  forth,  mounted  our 
horses,  and  went  up  the  river  about  12  miles,  to  a  place 
where  the  Spanish  officers  had  made  a  camp  deposit, 
whence  we  sent  down  mules  for  our  baggage,  etc." 


262  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

The  disposition  of  the  party  now  is  Baroney  and 
Private  Smith  on  the  Arkansas  River  at  Cano  City; 
Privates  Dougherty  and  Sparks  in  the  mountains  where 
they  were  left  with  frozen  feet;  Sergeant  Meek  and 
Private  Miller  have  gone  to  bring  these  all  in;  Cor- 
poral Jackson  and  Private  Carter  are  left  at  the  fort  on 
the  Rio  Conejos  to  wait  their  coming;  Dr.  Robinson 
has  gone  ahead  to  Santa  Fe;  Pike  with  Privates  Brown, 
Gordon,  Menaugh,  Mountjoy,  Roy,  and  Stoute  are  to 
accompany  the  Spanish  dragoons  to  Santa  Fe. 


CHAPTER  VII 

THROUGH  NEW  MEXICO  TO  EL   PASO 

Feb.  27TH — March  2ist  1807 

"Friday,  Feb.  2Jth,  1807.  In  the  morning  I  dis- 
covered that  the  Spanish  lieutenant  was  writing  letters 
addressed  to  the  governor  and  others;  on  which  I  de- 
manded if  he  was  not  going  on  with  me  to  Santa  Fe. 
He  appeared  confused  and  said,  No;  that  his  orders 
were  so  positive  as  to  the  safe  conduct  and  protection  of 
my  men,  that  he  dare  not  go  and  leave  any  behind;  that 
his  companion  would  accompany  me  to  Santa  Fe  with 
50  men,  while  he  with  the  others  would  wait  for  the  ser- 
geant and  his  party.  I  replied  that  he  had  deceived 
me,  and  had  not  acted  with  candor;  but  that  it  was 
now  too  late  for  me  to  remedy  the  evil. 

"We  marched  about  eleven  o'clock,  ascending  the 
Rio  del  Norte  five  miles  more,  S.  60°  W.,  when  we  went 
round  through  a  chain  of  hills  and  bore  off  to  the  south. 
We  proceeded  nine  miles  further,  when  we  crossed  the 
main  branch  of  that  stream,  which  was  now  bearing 
nearly  west  toward  the  main  chain  of  the  third  chain 
of  mountains.  We  encamped  on  the  opposite  side. 
Intensely  cold;  obliged  to  stop  frequently  and  make 
fires.     Snow  deep.     Distance  15  miles. 

263 


264  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

''Feb.  2Sth.  We  marched  late.  One  of  the  French- 
men informed  me  that  the  expedition  which  had  been 
to  the  Pawnees  had  descended  the  Red  river  233  leagues, 
and  from  thence  had  crossed  to  the  Pawnees  expressly 
in  search  of  my  party.  This  was  afterward  confirmed 
by  the  gentleman  who  commanded  the  troops.  He 
then  expressed  great  regret  at  my  misfortunes,  as  he 
termed  them,  in  being  taken,  and  offered  his  services 
in  secreting  my  papers,  etc.  I  took  him  at  his  word, 
and  for  my  amusement  thought  I  would  try  him;  so 
I  gave  him  a  leaf  or  two  of  my  journal,  copied,  which 
mentioned  the  time  of  my  sailing  from  Belle  Fontaine, 
and  our  force.  This  I  charged  him  to  guard  very  care- 
fully and  give  to  me  after  the  investigation  of  my  papers 
at  Santa  Fe.  This  day  we  saw  a  herd  of  wild  horses. 
The  Spaniards  pursued  them  and  caught  two  colts, 
one  of  which  the  Indians  killed  and  ate;  the  other  was 
let  go.  We  pursued  our  journey  over  some  hills,  where 
the  snow  was  very  deep,  and  encamped  at  last  on  the 
top  of  a  pretty  high  hill,  among  some  pines.  We  left 
the  river,  which  in  general  ran  about  six,  eight,  and  10 
miles  to  the  left  or  east  of  us.  Saw  great  sign  of  elk. 
Distance  36  miles. 

*'  Sunday y  Mar.  1st.  We  marched  early.  Although 
we  rode  very  hard  we  only  got  to  the  village  of  L'eau 
Chaud,  or  Warm  Spring,  some  time  in  the  afternoon. 
The  distance  was  about  45  miles.  The  difference  of 
climate  was  astonishing;  after  we  left  the  hills  and  deep 
snows,  we  found  ourselves  on  plains  where  there  was  no 
snow,  and  where  vegetation  was  sprouting. 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        265 

"The  village  of  Warm  Springs,  or  Agua  Caliente  in 
their  language,  is  situated  on  the  eastern  branch  of  a 
creek  of  that  name,  and  at  a  distance  presents  to  the  eye 
a  square  enclosure  of  mud  walls,  the  houses  forming  the 
walls.  They  are  flat  on  top,  or  with  extreme  ascent 
on  one  side,  where  there  are  spits  to  carry  off  the  water 
of  the  melting  snow  and  rain  when  it  falls;  which,  we 
were  informed,  had  been  but  once  in  two  years  previous 
to  our  entering  the  country.  Inside  of  the  enclosure 
were  the  different  streets  of  houses  in  the  same  fashion, 
all  of  one  story;  the  doors  were  narrow,  the  windows 
small,  and  in  one  or  two  houses  there  were  talc  lights. 
This  village  had  a  mill  near  it,  situated  on  the  little 
creek,  which  made  very  good  flour.  The  population 
consisted  of  civilized  Indians,  but  much  mixed  blood. 

"Here  we  had  a  dance  which  is  called  the  fandango; 
but  there  was  one  which  was  copied  from  the  Mexicans, 
is  now  danced  in  the  first  societies  of  New  Spain,  and 
has  even  been  introduced  at  the  court  of  Madrid. 

"This  village  may  contain  500  souls.  The  greatest 
natural  curiosity  is  the  warm  springs,  which  are  two 
in  number,  about  10  yards  apart,  each  affording  suflEi- 
cient  water  for  a  mill-seat.  They  appeared  to  be  im- 
pregnated with  copper,  and  were  more  than  33°  above 
blood  heat.  From  this  village  the  Tetaus  drove  off 
2,000  horse  at  one  time,  when  at  war  with  the  Spaniards. 

'*Mar.  2d.  We  marched  late,  and  passed  several 
little  mud-walled  villages  and  settlements,  all  of  which 
had  round  mud  towers  of  the  ancient  shape  and  construc- 
tion, to  defend  the  inhabitants  from  the  intrusions  of  the 


266  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

savages.  I  was  this  day  shown  the  ruins  of  several  old 
villages  which  had  been  taken  and  destroyed  by  the 
Tetaus.  We  were  frequently  stopped  by  the  women, 
who  invited  us  into  their  houses  to  eat;  and  in  every 
place  where  we  halted  a  moment  there  was  a  contest 
who  should  be  our  hosts.  My  poor  lads  who  had 
been  frozen  were  conducted  home  by  old  men,  who 
would  cause  their  daughters  to  dress  their  feet,  provide 
their  victuals  and  drink,  and  at  night  give  them  the  best 
bed  in  the  house.  In  short,  all  their  conduct  brought 
to  my  recollection  the  hospitality  of  the  ancient  patri- 
archs, and  caused  me  to  sigh  with  regret  at  the  cor- 
ruption of  that  noble  principle  by  the  polish  of  modern 
ages. 

"We  descended  the  creek  of  Agua  Caliente  about 
12  miles,  where  it  joined  the  river  of  Conejos  from  the 
west.  This  river  was  about  30  yards  wide,  and  was 
settled  for  12  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Agua 
Caliente,  as  the  latter  was  in  its  whole  course  from  the 
village  of  that  name.  From  where  they  form  a  junc- 
tion it  was  about  15  miles  to  the  Rio  del  Norte,  on  the 
eastern  branch  of  which  was  situated  the  village  of  St. 
John's  which  was  the  residence  of  the  president  priest 
of  the  province,  who  had  resided  in  it  40  years. 

"The  house-tops  of  the  village  of  St.  John's  were 
crowded,  as  well  as  the  streets,  when  we  entered,  and  at 
the  door  of  the  public  quarters  we  were  met  by  the  presi- 
dent priest.  When  my  companion,  who  commanded 
the  escort,  received  him  in  a  street  and  embraced  him, 
all  the  poor  creatures  who  stood  round  strove  to  kiss  the 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        267 

ring  or  hand  of  the  holy  father;  for  myself,  I  saluted 
him  in  the  usual  style.  My  men  were  conducted  into 
the  quarters,  and  I  went  to  the  house  of  the  priest,  where 
we  were  treated  with  politeness.  He  offered  us  coffee, 
chocolate,  or  whatever  we  thought  proper,  and  desired 
me  to  consider  myself  at  home  in  his  house. 

"As  I  was  going,  some  time  after,  to  the  quarters  of 
my  men,  I  was  addressed  at  the  door  by  a  man  in  broken 
English:  *My  friend,  I  am  very  sorry  to  see  you  here; 
we  are  all  prisoners  in  this  country  and  can  never  re- 
turn; I  have  been  a  prisoner  for  nearly  three  years,  and 
cannot  get  out.'  I  replied:  that  as  for  his  being  a  pris- 
oner, it  must  be  for  some  crime;  that  with  respect  to 
myself  I  felt  no  apprehension;  and  requested  him  to 
speak  French,  as  I  could  hardly  understand  his  Eng- 
lish. He  began  to  demand  of  me  so  many  different 
questions  on  the  mode  of  my  getting  into  the  country, 
my  intention,  etc.,  that  by  the  time  I  arrived  in  the 
room  of  my  men,  I  was  perfectly  satisfied  of  his  having 
been  ordered  by  some  person  to  endeavor  to  obtain 
some  confession  or  acknowledgment  of  sinister  designs 
in  my  having  appeared  on  the  frontiers,  and  some  con- 
fidential communications  which  might  implicate  me. 
As  he  had  been  rather  insolent  in  his  inquiries,  I  or- 
dered my  men  to  shut,  and  fasten  the  door.  I  then 
told  him  that  I  believed  him  to  be  an  emissary  sent  on 
purpose  by  the  governor,  or  some  person,  to  betray  me; 
that  all  men  of  that  description  were  scoundrels,  and 
never  should  escape  punishment,  whilst  I  had  the  power 
to  chastise  them — immediately  ordering  my   men   to 


268  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

seize  him,  and  cautioning  him  at  the  same  time,  that 
if  he  cried  out,  or  made  the  least  resistance,  I  would  be 
obliged  to  make  use  of  the  sabre  in  my  hand.  On  this 
he  was  so  much  alarmed,  that  he  begged  me  for  God's 
sake  not  to  injure  him;  he  also  said  that  he  had  been 
ordered  by  the  government  to  meet  me,  and  endeavor 
to  trace  out  what  and  who  I  was,  and  what  were  my 
designs,  by  endeavoring  to  produce  a  confidence  in  him, 
by  his  exclaiming  against  the  Spaniards  and  complain- 
ing of  the  tyranny  which  they  exercised  toward  him. 
After  this  confession,  I  ordered  my  men  to  release  him, 
and  told  him  that  I  looked  upon  him  too  contemptu- 
ously for  further  notice;  but  that  he  might  tell  the  gov- 
ernor, the  next  time  he  employed  emissaries,  to  choose 
those  of  more  abilities  and  sense;  and  that  I  questioned 
if  his  Excellency  would  find  the  sifting  of  us  an  easy 
task. 

"This  man's  name  was  Baptiste  Lalande;  he  had 
come  from  the  Illionis  to  the  Pawnees,  to  trade  with 
goods  furnished  him  by  William  Morrison,  a  gentleman 
of  the  Illinois,  and  thence  to  New  Mexico  with  the  goods 
which  he  had  procured,  and  established  himself;  he  was 
the  same  man  on  whom  Robinson  had  a  claim.  He 
returned  into  the  priest's  house  with  me,  and,  instead  of 
making  any  complaint,  he  in  reply  to  their  inquiries  of 
who  I  was,  etc.,  informed  them  that  when  he  left  Louisi- 
ana I  was  governor  of  the  Illinois.  This  I  presume  he 
took  for  granted  from  my  having  commanded  for  some 
time  the  post  of  Kaskaskias,  the  first  military  post  the 
United  States  had  established  in  that  country  since  the 


Through  New  Mexico  to  EI  Paso        269 

peace;  however,  the  report  served  to  add  to  the  respect 
with  which  my  companion  and  host  treated  me. 

"I  had  at  this  place  the  first  good  meal,  wine,  etc., 
which,  with  the  heat  of  the  house,  and  perhaps  rather 
an  immoderate  use  of  the  refreshments  allowed  me, 
produced  an  attack  of  something  like  cholera  morbus, 
which  alarmed  me  considerably,  and  made  me  deter- 
mine to  be  more  abstemious  in  future. 

"This  father  was  a  great  naturalist,  or  rather  florist; 
he  had  large  collections  of  flowers,  plants,  etc.,  and 
several  works  on  his  favorite  studies,  the  margins  and 
bottoms  of  which  were  filled  with  his  notes  in  the 
Castilian  language.  As  I  neither  had  a  natural  turn  for 
botany  sufllicient  to  induce  me  to  puzzle  my  head  much 
with  the  Latin,  nor  understood  Castilian,  I  enjoyed  but 
little  of  the  lectures  which  he  continued  to  give  me  for 
nearly  two  hours  on  those  subjects;  but,  by  the  exercise 
of  a  small  degree  of  patience,  I  entirely  acquired  the 
esteem  of  this  worthy  father,  he  calling  me  his  son, 
and  lamenting  extremely  that  my  faith  had  not  made 
me  one  of  the  holy  catholic  church. 

"The  father,  being  informed  that  I  had  some  astro- 
nomical instruments  with  me,  expressed  a  desire  to  see 
them.  All  that  I  had  here  was  my  sextant  and  a  large 
glass  which  magnified  considerably,  calculated  for  the 
day  or  night;  the  remainder  of  my  instruments  being 
with  my  sergeant  and  party.  On  examining  the  sextant 
and  my  showing  him  the  eflfect  of  it  in  the  reflection  of 
the  sun,  he,  as  well  as  the  hundreds  who  surrounded  us, 
appeared  more  surprised  at  the  effect  of  the  instrument 


270  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

than  any  nation  of  savages  I  ever  was  among.  Here 
an  idea  struck  me  as  extraordinary — how  a  man  who 
appeared  to  be  a  master  of  the  ancient  languages,  a 
botanist,  a  mineralogist,  and  chemist,  should  be  so 
ignorant  of  the  power  of  reflection  and  the  first  principles 
of  mathematics.  But  my  friend  explained  the  enigma, 
by  informing  me  of  the  care  the  Spanish  government 
took  to  prevent  any  branch  of  science  from  being  made 
a  pursuit  which  would  have  a  tendency  to  extend  the 
views  of  the  subjects  of  the  provinces  to  the  geography 
of  the  country,  or  any  other  subject  which  would  bring 
to  view  a  comparison  of  their  local  advantages  and 
situations  with  other  countries. 

"St.  John's  was  inclosed  with  a  mud  wall  and  probably 
contained  1,000  souls;  its  population  consisted  princi- 
pally of  civilized  Indians,  as  indeed  does  that  of  all  the 
villages  of  New  Mexico,  the  whites  not  forming  one- 
twentieth  of  the  inhabitants. 

'^Mar,  i^rd.  We  marched  after  breakfast,  B.  La- 
lande  accompanying  us,  and  in  about  six  miles  came 
to  a  village,  where  I  suppose  there  were  more  than 
2,000  souls.  Here  we  halted  at  the  house  of  a  priest, 
who,  understanding  that  I  would  not  kiss  his  hand, 
would  not  present  it  to  me.  The  conduct  and  be- 
havior of  a  young  priest  who  came  in  was  such  as  in 
our  country  would  have  been  amply  sufficient  forever 
to  have  banished  him  from  the  clerical  association — 
strutting  about  with  a  dirk  in  his  boot,  a  cane  in  his 
hand,  whispering  to  one  girl,  chucking  another  under 
the  chin,  going  out  with  a  third,  etc. 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso         271 

"From  this  village,  to  another  small  village  of  500  in- 
habitants, is  seven  miles.  At  each  of  those  villages  is 
a  small  stream,  sufficient  for  the  purpose  of  v^atering  the 
fields.  At  the  father's  house  we  took  coffee.  From 
this  village  it  was  17  miles  to  another  of  400  civilized 
Indians.  Here  we  changed  horses,  and  prepared  for 
entering  the  capital,  which  we  came  in  sight  of  in  the 
evening.  It  is  situated  along  the  banks  of  a  small  creek, 
which  comes  down  from  the  mountains,  and  runs  west 
to  the  Rio  del  Norte.  The  length  of  the  capital  along 
the  creek  may  be  estimated  at  one  mile;  it  is  but  three 
streets  in  width. 

Its  appearance  from  a  distance  struck  my  mind 
with  the  same  effect  as  a  fleet  of  the  flat-bottomed 
boats  which  are  seen  in  the  spring  and  fall  seasons, 
descending  the  Ohio  river.  There  are  two  churches, 
the  magnificence  of  whose  steeples  forms  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  miserable  appearance  of  the  houses. 
On  the  north  side  of  the  town  is  the  square  of  soldiers' 
houses  equal  to  120  or  140  on  each  flank.  The  public 
square  is  in  the  centre  of  the  town;  on  the  north  side 
of  it  is  situated  the  palace,  as  they  term  it,  or  govern- 
ment house,  with  quarters  for  guards,  etc.  The  other 
side  of  the  square  is  occupied  by  the  clergy  and  public 
ofllicers.  In  general  the  houses  have  a  shed  before  the 
front,  some  of  which  have  a  flooring  of  brick;  the  con- 
sequence is  that  the  streets  are  very  narrow,  say  in 
general  25  feet.  The  supposed  population  is  4,500 
souls.  On  our  entering  the  town  the  crowd  was  great, 
and  followed  us  to  the  government  house.     When  we 


272  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

dismounted  we  were  ushered  in  through  various  rooms, 
the  floors  of  which  were  covered  with  skins  of  buffalo, 
bear,  or  some  other  animal.  We  waited  in  a  chamber 
for  some  time,  until  his  Excellency  appeared,  when  we 
rose,  and  the  following  conversation  took  place  in 
French : 

^^ Governor,     *Do  you  speak  French?' 

''Pike.     'Yes,  sir.' 

''Governor.  *You  come  to  reconnoiter  our  country, 
do  you } ' 

"Pike.     '\  marched  to  reconnoiter  our  own.' 

"Governor.     *In  what  character  are  you  V 

"Pike.  '\n  my  proper  character,  an  officer  of  the 
United  States  army.' 

"Governor.  'And  this  Robinson — is  he  attached  to 
your  party } ' 

"Pike.     'No.' 

"Governor.     *  Do  you  know  him  .? ' 

"Pike.  'Yes;  he  is  from  St.  Louis.  (I  understood  the 
doctor  had  been  sent  45  leagues  from  Santa  Fe,  under 
a  strong  guard.  The  haughty  and  unfriendly  reception 
of  the  governor  induced  me  to  believe  war  must  have 
been  declared,  and  that  if  it  were  known  Dr.  Robinson 
had  accompanied  me,  he  would  be  treated  with  great 
severity.  I  was  correct  in  saying  he  was  not  attached 
to  my  party,  for  he  was  only  a  volunteer,  who  could  not 
properly  be  said  to  be  one  of  my  command.)' 

"Governor.     'How  many  men  have  you  ?' 

"Pike.     'Fifteen.' 

"Governor.     'And  this  Robinson  makes  sixteen.'^' 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        273 

^'Pike,  'I  have  already  told  your  Excellency  that  he 
does  not  belong  to  my  party,  and  shall  answer  no 
more  interrogatories  on  that  subject.' 

^^ Governor.     *When  did  you  leave  St.  Louis  V 

''Pike.     'July  15th.' 

''Governor.     '\  think  you  marched  in  June.' 

"Pike.     'No,  sir!' 

"Governor.  'Well!  Return  with  Mr.  Bartholomew  to 
his  house;  come  here  again  at  seven  o'clock,  and  bring 
your  papers.' 

"On  which  we  returned  to  the  house  of  my  friend 
Bartholomew,  who  seemed  much  hurt  at  the  interview. 

"At  the  door  of  the  government  house,  I  met  the  old 
Frenchman  to  whom  I  had  given  the  scrap  of  paper 
on  the  27th  of  February.  He  had  left  us  in  the  morn- 
ing, and,  as  I  suppose,  hurried  in  to  make  his  report,  and 
I  presume  had  presented  this  paper  to  his  Excellency. 
I  demanded,  with  a  look  of  contempt,  if  he  had  made 
his  report  ?  To  which  he  made  reply  in  a  humble  tone 
and  began  to  excuse  himself;  but  I  did  not  wait  to  hear 
his  excuses.  At  the  hour  appointed  we  returned,  when 
the  governor  demanded  my  papers.  I  told  him  that  I 
understood  my  trunk  had  been  taken  possession  of 
by  his  guard.  He  expressed  surprise,  immediately  or- 
dered it  in,  and  also  sent  for  one  Solomon  Colly,  formerly 
a  sergeant  in  our  army,  and  one  of  the  unfortunate 
company  of  Nolan.  We  were  seated,  when  he  ordered 
Colly  to  demand  my  name,  to  which  I  replied.  He 
then  demanded  in  what  province  I  was  born.  I  an- 
swered in  English,  and  then  addressed  his  Excellency  in 


2/4  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

French,  and  told  him  that  I  did  not  think  it  necessary 
to  enter  into  such  a  catechising;  that  if  he  would  be  at 
the  pains  of  reading  my  commission  from  the  United 
States,  and  my  orders  from  my  general,  it  would  be  all 
that  I  presumed  would  be  necessary  to  convince  his 
Excellency  that  I  came  with  no  hostile  intentions  toward 
the  Spanish  government;  that,  on  the  contrary,  I  had 
express  instructions  to  guard  against  giving  them 
offense  or  alarm;  and  that  his  Excellency  would  be 
convinced  that  myself  and  party  were  rather  to  be  con- 
sidered objects  on  which  the  so  much  celebrated  gener- 
osity of  the  Spanish  nation  might  be  exercised,  than 
proper  subjects  to  occasion  the  opposite  sentiments. 
He  then  requested  to  see  my  commission  and  orders, 
which  I  read  to  him  in  French;  on  which  he  got  up 
and  gave  me  his  hand,  for  the  first  time,  and  said  he 
was  happy  to  be  acquainted  with  me  as  a  man  of  honor 
and  a  gentleman;  that  I  could  retire  this  evening  and 
take  my  trunk  with  me;  and  that  on  the  morrow  he 
would  make  further  arrangements. 

''Mar.  \th.  I  was  desired  by  the  governor  to  bring 
up  my  trunk,  in  order  that  he  might  make  some  ob- 
servations on  my  route,  etc.  When  he  ordered  me  to 
take  my  trunk  over  night,  I  had  conceived  that  the 
examination  of  papers  was  over.  As  many  of  my  docu- 
ments were  intrusted  to  the  care  of  my  men,  and  I 
found  the  inhabitants  were  treating  the  men  with 
liquor,  I  was  fearful  they  would  become  intoxicated,  and 
through  inadvertency  betray  or  discover  the  papers.  I 
had  therefore  obtained  several  of  them  and  put  them  in 


Through  New  Mexico  to  EI  Paso         275 

the  trunk,  when  an  officer  arrived  for  myself  and  it, 
and  I  had  no  opportunity  of  taking  them  out  again  before 
I  was  taken  up  to  the  palace.  I  discovered  instantly 
that  I  had  been  deceived,  but  it  was  too  late  to  remedy 
the  evil.  After  examining  the  contents  of  my  trunk, 
he  informed  me  that  I  must,  with  my  troops,  go  to 
Chihuahua,  province  of  Biscay,  to  appear  before  the 
commandant-general.  He  added:  *You  have  the  key 
of  your  trunk  in  your  own  possession;  the  trunk  will 
be  put  under  the  charge  of  the  officer,  who  commands 
your  escort/  The  following  conversation  then  took 
place: 

^'Pike.  *If  we  go  to  Chihuahua  we  must  be  con- 
sidered prisoners  of  war?' 

^^ Governor.     *By  no  means.' 

^'Pike,  *You  have  already  disarmed  my  men  with- 
out my  knowledge;  are  their  arms  to  be  returned  or 
not?' 

^^  Governor.     'They  can  receive  them  at  any  moment.' 

^'Pike.  *But,  sir,  I  cannot  consent  to  be  led  three  or 
four  hundred  leagues  out  of  my  route,  without  its  being 
by  force  of  arms.' 

^^ Governor.  *I  know  you  do  not  go  voluntarily;  but 
I  will  give  you  a  certificate  from  under  my  hand  of  my 
having  obliged  you  to  march.' 

''Pike.     *I  will  address  you  a  letter  on  the  subject.' 

''Governor.  *You  will  dine  with  me  to-day,  and  march 
afterward  to  a  village  about  six  miles  distant,  escorted 
by  Captain  Anthony  D'Almansa,  with  a  detachment  of 
dragoons,  who  will  accompany  you  where  the  remainder 


276  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

of  your  escort  are  waiting,  under  the  command  of  the 
officer,  who  commanded  the  expedition  to  the  Pawnees.' 

^'Pike.  *I  would  not  wish  to  be  impertinent  in  my 
observations  to  your  Excellency;  but  pray,  sir,  do  you 
not  think  it  was  a  greater  infringement  of  our  territory 
to  send  600  miles  in  the  Pawnees',  than  for  me  with  our 
small  party  to  come  on  the  frontiers  of  yours  with  an 
intent  to  descend  the  Red  river  ? ' 

'^Governor.     *I  do  not  understand  you/ 

^^Pike.  *No,  sir,  any  further  explanation  is  unnec- 
sary.' 

"I  then  returned  to  the  house  of  my  friend  Bartholo- 
mew and  wrote  my  letter  to  his  Excellency,  which  I  had 
not  finished  before  we  were  hurried  to  dinner. 

"In  the  morning  I  received  from  the  governor,  by 
the  hands  of  his  private  secretary,  ;?2i,  notifying  to  me 
that  it  was  the  amount  of  the  king's  allowance  for  my 
party  to  Chihuahua,  and  that  it  would  be  charged  to 
me  on  account  of  my  subsistence.  From  this  I  clearly 
understood  that  it  was  calculated  that  the  expenses  of 
the  party  to  Chihuahua  would  be  defrayed  by  the  United 
States.  I  also  received  by  the  same  hands,  from  his 
Excellency,  a  shirt  and  neck-cloth  with  his  compliments, 
wishing  me  to  accept  of  them,  as  they  had  been  made 
in  Spain  by  his  sister  and  had  never  been  worn  by  any 
person.  For  this  I  returned  him  my  sincere  acknowl- 
edgments; and  it  may  not  be  deemed  irrelevant  if  I 
explain  at  this  period  the  miserable  appearance  we 
made,  and  the  situation  we  were  in,  with  the  causes 
of  it. 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        277 

"When  we  left  our  interpreter  and  one  man  on  the 
Arkansaw,  we  were  obliged  to  carry  all  our  baggage 
on  our  backs;  consequently,  that  which  was  the  most 
useful  was  preferred  to  the  few  ornamental  parts  of 
dress  we  possessed.  The  ammunition  claimed  our  first 
care;  tools  were  secondary;  leather  leggings,  boots, 
and  mockinsons  were  the  next  in  consideration.  Con- 
sequently, I  left  all  my  uniform,  clothing,  trunks,  etc., 
as  did  the  men,  except  what  they  had  on  their  backs; 
conceiving  that  which  would  secure  the  feet  and  legs 
from  the  cold  to  be  preferable  to  any  less  indispensable 
portion  of  our  dress.  Thus,  when  we  presented  our- 
selves at  Santa  Fe,  I  was  dressed  in  a  pair  of  blue  trous- 
ers, mockinsons,  blanket  coat,  and  a  cap  made  of  scarlet 
cloth  lined  with  fox-skin;  my  poor  fellows  were  in 
leggings,  breech  cloths,  leather  coat,  and  there  was  not 
a  hat  in  the  whole  party.  This  appearance  was  ex- 
tremely mortifying  to  us  all,  especially  as  soldiers;  al- 
though some  of  the  officers  used  frequently  to  observe 
to  me,  that  worth  made  the  man,  etc.,  with  a  variety 
of  adages  to  the  same  amount.  Yet  the  first  impres- 
sion made  on  the  ignorant  is  hard  to  eradicate;  and  a 
greater  proof  cannot  be  given  of  the  ignorance  of  the 
common  people,  than  their  asking  if  we  lived  in  houses, 
or  in  camps  like  the  Indians,  and  if  we  wore  hats  in 
our  country.  Those  observations  are  sufficient  to  show 
the  impression  our  uncouth  appearance  made  amongst 
them. 

The  dinner  at  the  governor's  was  rather  splendid, 
having  a  variety  of  dishes  and  wines  of  the  southern 


278  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

provinces;  and  when  his  Excellency  was  a  little  warmed 
with  the  influence  of  cheering  liquor,  he  became  very 
sociable.  He  informed  me  that  there  existed  a  serious 
difliculty  between  the  commandant-general  of  the  inter- 
nal provinces  and  the  Marquis  Caso  Calvo,  who  had 
given  permission  to  Mr.  Dunbar  to  explore  the  Ouchata 
contrary  to  the  general  principles  of  their  government; 
in  consequence  of  which  the  former  had  made  represen- 
tations against  the  latter  to  the  court  of  Madrid.  After 
dinner  his  Excellency  ordered  his  coach;  Captain 
D'Almansa,  Bartholomew,  and  myself  entered  with  him, 
and  he  drove  out  three  miles.  He  was  drawn  by  six 
mules  and  attended  by  a  guard  of  cavalry.  When  we 
parted  his  adieu  was,  Remember  Allencaster,  in  peace 
or  war. 

"I  left  a  note  for  my  sergeant,  with  instructions  to 
keep  up  good  discipline  and  not  be  alarmed  or  dis- 
couraged. As  I  was  about  leaving  the  public  square, 
poor  Colly,  the  American  prisoner,  came  up  with  tears 
in  his  eyes,  and  hoped  I  would  not  forget  him  when  I 
arrived  in  the  United  States. 

"After  we  left  the  governor  we  rode  on  about  three 
miles  to  a  defile,  where  we  halted  for  the  troops.  I 
soon  found  that  the  old  soldier  who  accompanied  us 
and  commanded  our  escort  was  fond  of  a  drop  of  the 
cheering  liquor,  as  his  boy  was  carrying  a  bottle  in 
his  *  cochmelies,'  a  small  leather  case  attached  to  the 
saddle  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  small  articles.  We 
ascended  a  hill,  and  galloped  on  until  about  ten  o'clock; 
it  was  snowing  hard  all  the  time.     Then  we  came  to  a 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso         279 

precipice,   which   we   descended   with   great  difficuhy, 
from  the  obscurity  of  the  night,  to  a  small  village, 
where  we  put  up  at  the  quarters  of  the  priest,  he  being 
absent. 

"After  supper.  Captain  D'Almansa  related  to  me  that 
he  had  served  his  Catholic  Majesty  40  years  to  arrive  at 
the  rank  he  then  held,  which  was  that  of  a  first  lieutenant 
of  the  line  and  a  captain  by  brevet,  whilst  he  had  seen 
various  young  Europeans  promoted  over  his  head. 
After  the  old  man  had  taken  his  quantum  su-jjicet  and 
gone  to  sleep,  my  friend  and  myself  sat  up  for  some 
hours,  he  explaining  to  me  their  situation,  the  great 
desire  they  felt  for  a  change  in  affairs  and  an  open  trade 
with  the  United  States.  I  pointed  out  to  him  with 
chalk  on  the  floor  the  geographical  connection  and 
route  from  the  North  America  and  Louisiana,  and  finally 
gave  him  a  certificate  addressed  to  the  citizens  of  the 
United  States,  stating  his  friendly  disposition  and  his 
being  a  man  of  influence.  This  paper  he  seemed  to 
estimate  as  a  very  valuable  acquisition,  as  he  was  de- 
cidedly of  the  opinion  that  we  would  invade  that  coun- 
try the  ensuing  spring;  and  not  all  my  assurances  to 
the  contrary  could  eradicate  that  idea." 

Pike  had  been  out  of  the  reach  of  news  for  many 
months,  and  was  ignorant,  as  the  Mexicans  were  not, 
of  the  conspiracy  of  Aaron  Burr  concerning  the  Spanish 
possessions.  The  suspicions  of  Governor  Allencaster 
were  not  unfounded  concerning  Pike's  presence  on 
Spanish  soil,  although  these  were  not  correct  as  the 
record  of  Pike's  mistaken  wanderings  and  perils  which 


28o  Zebulon  M.  Pike 


brought  him  to  the  Rio  Grande,  disclose.  He  is  now, 
however,  brought  close  to  events,  and  conducts  him- 
self with  "courage,  dignity  and  much  fertility  of  re- 
sources," as  one  of  his  historians  declares;  and  these 
last  "were  never  prompted  from  personal  considera- 
tions, but  always  from  intense  patriotism."  Before 
leaving  Santa  Fe,  in  the  official  letter  addressed  to  the 
Governor,  he  desires  to  know  if  he  is  a  prisoner  of 
war,  and  who  is  to  pay  the  expenses  of  this  journey  of 
himself  and  men,  which  he  so  unwillingly  is  obliged 
to  take. 

In  reply  the  Governor  issued  a  certificate  to  "Z. 
Montgomery  Pike,  First  Lieutenant  of  the  Anglo- 
American  troops,"  making  himself  responsible  for  the 
journey,  which,  diplomatically,  he  says,  is  in  order  to 
introduce  his  visitor  to  the  commanding-general  of 
Chihuahua.  Into  the  matter  of  expense  he  does  not 
enter,  but  subsequently  the  Governor  of  Chihuahua 
advanced  Pike  $ioo,  which  the  United  States  is  to  re- 
fund. 

*' Mar.  yh.  As  it  snowed  very  hard  in  the  morning, 
we  did  not  march  until  eleven  o'clock.  In  the  mean- 
time, Bartholomew  and  myself  paid  a  visit  to  an  old 
invalid  Spaniard,  who  received  us  in  the  most  hospita- 
ble manner,  giving  us  chocolate,  etc.  He  made  many 
inquiries  as  to  our  government  and  religion,  and  of 
[Bartholomew],  who  did  not  fail  to  give  them  the 
brightest  coloring;  he  being  enthusiastic  in  their  favor 
from  his  many  conversations  with  me,  and  drawing 
comparisons  with  his  own  country.     What  appeared  to 


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Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        281 

the  old  veteran  most  extraordinary  was  that  we  ever 
changed  our  president.  I  was  obliged  to  draw  his 
powers  on  a  nearer  affinity  with  those  of  a  monarch 
than  they  really  are,  in  order  that  he  might  comprehend 
his  station,  and  that  there  was  a  perfect  freedom  of 
conscience  permitted  in  our  country.  He,  however, 
expressed  his  warm  approbation  of  the  measure.  In 
the  priest's  house  at  which  we  put  up  were  two  orphan 
girls,  who  were  adopted  by  him  in  their  infancy  and 
at  this  time  constituted  his  whole  family. 

"I  bid  adieu  to  my  friend  Bartholomew,  and  could 
not  avoid  shedding  tears;  he  embraced  me  and  all  my 
men. 

"We  arrived  at  the  village  of  St.  Domingo  at  two 
o'clock.  It  is  as  I  supposed,  nine  miles  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  and  is  a  large  village,  the  pop- 
ulation being  about  1000  natives,  generally  governed 
by  its  own  chief.  The  chiefs  of  the  village  were  dis- 
tinguished by  a  cane  with  a  silver  head  and  black  tassels. 
On  our  arrival  at  the  public  house  Captain  D'Almansa 
was  waited  on  by  the  governor,  cap  in  hand,  to  receive 
his  orders  as  to  furnishing  our  quarters  and  ourselves 
with  wood,  water,  provisions,  etc.  The  house  itself 
contained  nothing  but  bare  walls  and  small  grated 
windows,  which  brought  to  my  recollection  the  repre- 
sentations of  the  Spanish  inhabitants  given  by  Dr. 
Moore  in  his  travels  through  Spain,  Italy,  etc.  This 
village,  as  well  as  those  of  St.  Philip's  and  St.  Bartho- 
lomew, is  of  the  nation  of  Keres,  many  of  whom  do 
not  yet  speak  good  Spanish. 


282  Zebulon  M.  Pike 


"After  we  had  refreshed  ourselves  a  little,  the  captain 
sent  for  the  keys  of  the  church;  and  when  we  entered 
it,  I  was  much  astonished  to  find,  inclosed  in  mud- 
brick  walls,  many  rich  paintings,  and  the  saint  as  large 
as  life,  elegantly  ornamented  with  gold  and  silver.  The 
captain  made  -j.  slight  inclination  of  the  head,  and  inti- 
mated to  me  that  this  was  the  patron  of  the  village. 
We  then  ascended  into  the  gallery,  where  the  choir  are 
generally  placed.  In  an  outside  hall  was  placed  an- 
other image  of  the  saint,  less  richly  ornamented,  where 
the  populace  repaired  daily  and  knelt  to  return  thanks 
for  benefactions  received,  or  to  ask  new  favors.  Many 
young  girls,  indeed,  chose  the  time  of  our  visit  to  be 
on  their  knees  before  the  holy  patrons.  From  the  flat 
roof  of  the  church  we  had  a  delightful  view  of  the 
village;  The  Rio  del  Norte  on  the  west;  the  mountains 
of  St.  Dies  to  the  south;  the  valley  round  the  town, 
on  which  were  numerous  herds  of  goats,  sheep,  and 
asses — upon  the  whole,  this  was  one  of  the  handsom- 
est views  in  New  Mexico. 

"Mar.  6th.  Marched  down  the  Rio  del  Norte  on 
the  east  side.  Snow  one  foot  deep.  Passed  large  flocks 
of  goats.  At  the  village  of  St.  Philip's  we  crossed  a 
bridge  of  eight  arches,  constructed  as  follows:  the 
pillars  made  of  neat  woodwork,  something  similar  to  a 
crate,  and  in  the  form  of  a  keel-boat,  the  sharp  end  or 
bow  to  the  current;  this  crate  or  abutment  was  filled  with 
stone,  in  which  the  river  lodged  sand,  clay,  etc.,  until 
it  had  become  of  a  tolerably  firm  consistency.  On  the 
top  of  the  pillars  were  laid  pine  logs,  lengthways,  squared 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso         283 

on  two  sides;  being  joined  pretty  close,  these  made  a 
tolerable  bridge  for  carriages,  as  there  were  no  hand- 
rails. 

"On  our  arrival  at  the  house  of  the  father,  we  were 
received  in  a  very  polite  and  friendly  manner;  and  be- 
fore my  departure  we  seemed  to  have  been  friends  for 
years  past.  During  our  dinner,  at  which  we  had  a 
variety  of  wines,  we  were  entertained  with  music,  com- 
posed of  base  drums,  French  horns,  violins,  and  cym- 
bals. We  likewise  entered  into  a  long  and  candid  con- 
versation as  to  the  Creoles,  wherein  he  spared  neither 
the  government  nor  its  administrators.  As  to  govern- 
ment and  religion.  Father  Rubi  displayed  a  liberality  of 
opinion  and  a  fund  of  knowledge  which  astonished  me. 
He  showed  a  statistical  table  on  which  he  had  in  a  regu- 
lar manner,  taken  the  whole  province  of  New  Mexico 
by  villages,  beginning  at  Tous,  on  the  northwest,  and 
ending  with  Valencia  on  the  south,  giving  their  latitude, 
longitude,  and  population,  whether  natives  or  Spaniards, 
civilized  or  barbarous.  Christians  or  pagans,  numbers, 
names  of  the  nations,  when  converted,  how  governed, 
military  force,  clergy,  salary,  etc. — in  short,  a  complete 
geographical,  statistical,  and  historical  sketch  of  the 
province.  Of  this  I  wished  to  obtain  a  copy,  but  per- 
ceived that  the  captain  was  somewhat  surprised  at  its 
having  been  shown  to  me.  When  we  parted,  we 
promised  to  write  to  each  other,  which  I  performed 
from  Chihuahua. 

**  Here  was  an  old  Indian  who  was  extremely  inquisi- 
tive to  know  if  we  were  Spaniards;    to  which  an  old 


284  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

gentleman  called  Don  Francisco,  who  appeared  to  be 
an  inmate  of  Father  Rubi's,  replied  in  the  affirmative. 
'But,'  said  the  Indian,  'they  do  not  speak  CastiUian.' 
'True,'  replied  the  other;  'but  you  are  an  Indian  of  the 
nation  of  Keres,  are  you  not?'  'Yes.'  'Well,  the 
Utahs  are  Indians  also?'  'Yes.'  'But  still  you  do 
not  understand  them,  they  speaking  a  different  lan- 
guage.' 'True,'  replied  the  Indian.  'Well,'  said  the 
old  gentleman,  'those  strangers  are  Hkewise  Spaniards^ 
but  do  not  speak  the  same  language  with  us.'  This 
reasoning  seemed  to  satisfy  the  poor  savage;  and  I 
could  not  but  smile  at  the  ingenuity  displayed  to  make 
him  believe  there  was  no  other  nation  of  whites  but 
the  Spaniards. 

"Whilst  at  dinner.  Father  Rubi  was  informed  that 
one  of  his  parishioners  was  at  the  point  of  death,  and 
wished  his  attendance  to  receive  his  confession. 

"We  took  our  departure,  but  were  shortly  after  over- 
taken by  our  friend,  who,  after  giving  me  another  hearty 
shake  of  the  hand,  left  us.  Crossed  the  river  and 
passed  two  small  hamlets  and  houses  on  the  road  to  the 
village  of  St.  Dies,  opposite  the  mountain  of  the  same 
name,  where  we  were  received  in  a  house  of  Father 
Rubi,  this  making  part  of  his  domains. 

"Mar.  Jth.  Marched  at  nine  o'clock  through  a 
country  better  cultivated  and  inhabited  than  any  I  had 
yet  seen.  Arrived  at  Albuquerque,  a  village  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Rio  del  Norte.  We  were  received  by 
Father  Ambrosio  Guerra  in  a  very  flattering  manner, 
and    led    into    his    hall.     From    thence,  after  taking 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        285 

some  refreshments,  we  went  into  an  inner  ap'artment, 
where  he  ordered  his  adopted  children  of  the  female 
sex  to  appear.  They  came  in  by  turns — Indians  of  vari- 
ous nations,  Spanish,  French,  and  finally  two  young 
girls,  whom  from  their  complexion  I  conceived  to  be 
English.  On  perceiving  I  noticed  them,  he  ordered 
the  rest  to  retire,  many  of  whom  were  beautiful,  and 
directed  those  to  sit  down  on  the  sofa  beside  me.  Thus 
situated,  he  told  me  that  they  had  been  taken  to  the 
east  by  the  Tetaus  and  passed  from  one  nation  to  an- 
other, until  he  purchased  them,  at  that  time  infants; 
they  could  recollect  neither  their  names  nor  language, 
but,  concluding  they  were  my  countrywomen,  he  or- 
dered them  to  embrace  me  as  a  mark  of  their  friend- 
ship, to  which  they  appeared  nothing  loath.  We  then  sat 
down  to  dinner,  which  consisted  of  various  dishes,  ex- 
cellent wines,  and,  to  crown  all,  we  were  waited  on  by 
half  a  dozen  of  those  beautiful  girls  who,  like  Hebe  at 
the  feast  of  the  gods,  converted  our  wine  to  nectar,  and 
with  their  ambrosial  breath  shed  incense  on  our  cups. 
After  the  cloth  was  removed  some  time,  the  priest  beck- 
oned me  to  follow  him,  and  led  me  into  his  sanctum 
sanctorum,  where  he  had  the  rich  and  majestic  images 
of  various  saints,  and  in  the  midst  the  crucified  Jesus, 
crowned  with  thorns,  with  rich  rays  of  golden  glory 
surrounding  his  head — in  short,  the  room  being  hung 
with  black  silk  curtains,  served  but  to  augment  the 
gloom  and  majesty  of  the  scene.  When  he  conceived 
my  imagination  sufficiently  wrought  up,  he  put  on  a 
black  gown  and  miter,  kneeled  before  the  cross,  took 


286  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

hold  of  my  hand,  and  endeavored  gently  to  pull  me 
down  beside  him.  On  my  refusal  he  prayed  fervently 
for  a  few  minutes  and  then  rose,  laid  his  hands  on  my 
shoulders,  and,  as  I  conceived,  blessed  me.  He  then 
said  to  me,  *You  will  not  be  a  Christian.  Oh!  what  a 
pity!  oh!  what  a  pity!'  He  then  threw  off  his  robes, 
took  me  by  the  hand  and  led  me  out  of  the  company 
smiling;  but  the  scene  I  had  gone  through  had  made  too 
serious  an  impression  on  my  mind  to  be  eradicated  until 
we  took  our  departure,  which  was  in  an  hour  after,  hav- 
ing received  great  marks  of  friendship  from  the  father. 

"Both  above  and  below  Albuquerque,  the  citizens 
were  beginning  to  open  canals,  to  let  in  the  water  of  the 
river  to  fertilize  the  plain  and  fields  which  border  its 
banks  on  both  sides;  where  we  saw  men,  women,  and 
children,  of  all  ages  and  sexes,  at  the  joyful  labor  which 
was  to  crown  with  rich  abundance  their  future  harvest 
and  insure  them  plenty  for  the  ensuing  year.  Those 
scenes  brought  to  my  recollection  the  bright  descrip- 
tions given  by  Savary  of  the  opening  of  the  canals  of 
Egypt.  The  cultivation  of  the  fields  was  commencing 
and  everything  appeared  to  give  life  and  gayety  to  the 
surrounding  scenery. 

"We  crossed  the  Rio  del  Norte,  a  little  below  the 
village  of  Albuquerque,  where  it  was  400  yards  wide, 
but  not  more  than  three  feet  deep  and  excellent  ford- 
ing. At  Father  Ambrosio's  was  the  only  chart  we 
saw  in  the  province  that  gave  the  near  connection  of 
the  sources  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  and  the  Rio  Colorado 
of  California,  with  their  ramifications. 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        287 

"On  our  arriving  at  the  next  village,  a  dependency  of 
Father  Ambrosio's,  we  were  invited  into  the  house  of 
the  commandant.  When  I  entered,  I  saw  a  man  sitting 
by  the  fire  reading  a  book;  with  blooming  cheeks,  fine 
complexion,  and  a  genius-speaking  eye,  he  arose  from 
his  seat.  It  was  Robinson!  Not  that  Robinson  who 
left  my  camp  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Rio  del  Norte, 
pale,  emaciated,  with  uncombed  locks  and  beard  of  eight 
months'  growth,  but  with  fire,  unsubdued  enterprise, 
and  fortitude.  The  change  was  indeed  surprising.  I 
started  back  and  exclaimed, 'Robinson!'  *Yes/  *But 
I  do  not  know  you,'  I  replied.  *But  I  know  you,'  he 
exclaimed;  T  would  not  be  unknown  to  you  here,  in 
this  land  of  tyranny  and  oppression,  to  avoid  all  the 
pains  they  dare  to  inflict.  Yet,  my  friend,  I  grieve  to 
see  you  here  and  thus,  for  I  presume  you  are  a  prisoner.' 
I  replied  *No!  I  wear  my  sword,  you  see;  all  my 
men  have  their  arms,  and  the  moment  they  dare  to  ill- 
treat  us  we  will  surprise  their  guards  in  the  night,  carry 
off  some  horses,  make  our  way  to  the  Appaches,  and 
then  set  them  at  defiance.' 

"At  this  moment  Captain  D'Almansa  entered,  and  I 
introduced  Robinson  to  him  as  my  companion  de  voy- 
age and  friend,  he  having  before  seen  him  at  Santa  Fe. 
He  did  not  appear  much  surprised,  and  received  him 
with  a  significant  smile,  as  much  as  to  say,  T  knew 
this.'  We  then  marched  out  to  the  place  where  the 
soldiers  were  encamped,  not  one  of  whom  would  recog- 
nize him,  agreeably  to  orders,  until  I  gave  them  the 
sign.     Then   it  was   a   joyful   meeting,  as  the  whole 


288  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

party  was  enthusiastically  fond  of  him.  He  gave  me 
the  following  relation  of  his  adventures  after  he  left 
me: 

"*I  marched  the  first  day  up  the  branch  on  which 
we  were  situated,  as  you  know  we  had  concluded  it 
would  be  most  proper  to  follow  it  to  its  source  and  then 
cross  the  mountains  west,  where  we  had  conceived  we 
should  find  the  Spanish  settlements,  and  at  night  en- 
camped on  its  banks.  The  second  day  I  left  it  a  little, 
bore  more  south,  and  was  getting  up  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  when  I  discovered  two  Indians,  for  whom  I 
made.  They  were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  and 
were  extremely  shy  of  my  approach;  but  after  some 
time,  confidence  being  somewhat  restored,  I  signified 
a  wish  to  go  to  Santa  Fe,  when  they  pointed  due  south, 
down  the  river  I  left  you  on.  As  I  could  not  believe 
them,  I  reiterated  the  inquiry  and  received  the  same 
reply.  I  then  concluded  that  we  had  been  deceived, 
and  that  you  were  on  the  Rio  del  Norte,  instead  of  the 
Red  river.  I  was  embarrassed  whether  I  should  not  im- 
mediately return  to  apprise  you  of  it;  but  concluded  it 
to  be  too  late,  as  I  was  discovered  by  the  Indians,  whom 
if  I  had  not  met,  or  some  others,  I  should  have  continued 
on,  crossed  the  mountains  to  the  waters  of  the  Colorado, 
and  descended  these,  until  from  their  course  I  should 
have  discovered  my  mistake.  I  therefore  offered  them 
some  presents  to  conduct  me  in;  they  agreed,  con- 
ducted me  to  the  camp  where  their  women  were,  and  in 
about  five  minutes  we  were  on  our  march.  That  night 
we  encamped  in  the  woods:    I  slept  very  little,  owing 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso         289 

to  my  distrust  of  my  companions.  The  next  day,  at 
three  o'clock,  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Agua  Cahente, 
where  I  was  immediately  taken  into  the  house  of  the 
commandant,  and  expresses  were  dispatched  to  Santa 
Fe.  That  night  I  was  put  to  sleep  on  a  mattress  on  the 
floor.  The  next  day  we  departed  early,  leaving  my 
arms  and  baggage  at  the  commandant's,  he  promising 
to  have  them  forwarded  to  me  at  the  city.  On  our 
arrival  at  Santa  Fe,  the  governor  received  me  with  great 
austerity  at  first,  entered  into  an  examination  of  my 
business,  and  took  possession  of  all  my  papers.  After 
all  this  was  explained,  he  ordered  me  to  a  room  where 
the  officers  were  confined  when  under  an  arrest,  and  a 
non-commissioned  officer  to  attend  me  when  I  walked 
out  into  the  city,  which  I  had  free  permission  to  do. 
I  was  supplied  with  provisions  from  the  governor's  table, 
who  had  promised  he  would  write  to  Baptiste  Lalande 
to  come  down  and  answer  to  the  claim  I  had  against 
him;  whose  circumstances  I  had  apprised  myself  of. 
The  second  day  the  governor  sent  for  me,  and  informed 
me  that  he  had  made  inquiry  as  to  the  abilities  of  La- 
lande to  discharge  the  debt,  and  found  that  he  possessed 
no  property;  but  that  at  some  future  period  he  would 
secure  the  money  for  me.  To  this  I  made  a  spirited 
remonstrance,  as  an  infringement  of  our  treaties  and 
a  protection  of  a  refugee  citizen  of  the  United  States 
against  his  creditors.  But  it  had  no  other  effiect  than  to 
obtain  me  an  invitation  to  dinner,  and  rather  more  re- 
spectful treatment  than  I  had  hitherto  received  from  his 
Excellency;  who,  being  slightly  afflicted  with  dropsy. 


290  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

requested  my  advice  as  to  his  case.  For  this  I  pre- 
scribed a  regimen  and  mode  of  treatment,  which  hap- 
pened to  differ  from  the  one  adopted  by  a  monk  and 
practising  physician  of  the  place,  and  thus  brought  on 
me  his  enmity  and  ill  offices.  The  ensuing  day  I  was 
ordered  by  the  governor  to  hold  myself  in  readiness  to 
proceed  to  the  internal  parts  of  the  country,  to  which  I 
agreed;  determining  not  to  leave  the  country  in  a 
clandestine  manner,  unless  they  attempted  to  treat  me 
with  indignity  or  hardship;  and  conceiving  it  in  my 
power  to  join  you  on  your  retreat,  or  find  Red  river 
and  descend  it,  should  you  not  be  brought  in;  but, 
in  that  case,  to  share  your  destiny.  Added  to  this  I 
felt  a  desire  to  see  more  of  the  country,  for  which  I 
was  willing  to  run  the  risk  of  future  consequences. 
We  marched  the  ensuing  day,  I  having  been  equipped 
by  my  friends  with  some  small  articles  of  which  I 
stood  in  need,  such  as  I  would  receive  out  of  the 
numerous  offers  of  his  country.  The  fourth  day  I  ar- 
rived at  the  village  of  St.  Fernandez,  where  I  was  re- 
ceived and  taken  charge  of  by  Lieutenant  Don  Faciendo 
Malgares,  who  commanded  the  expedition  to  the 
Pawnees,  and  whom  you  will  find  a  gentleman,  a 
soldier,  and  one  of  the  most  gallant  men  you  ever 
knew.  With  him  I  could  no  longer  keep  up  the  dis- 
guise, and  when  he  informed  me  that  you  were  on  the 
way  in,  I  confessed  to  him  that  I  belonged  to  your 
party.  We  have  ever  since  been  anticipating  the 
pleasure  we  three  will  enjoy  in  our  journey  to  Chihua- 
hua;   for  he  is  to  command  the  escort,  his  dragoons 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        291 

being  now  encamped  in  the  field,  awaiting  your  arrival. 
Since  I  have  been  with  him  I  have  practiced  physic  in 
the  country  in  order  to  have  an  opportunity  of  examin- 
ing the  manners,  customs,  etc.,  of  the  people,  to  en- 
deavor to  ascertain  their  political  and  religious  feelings, 
and  to  gain  every  other  species  of  information  which 
would  be  necessary  to  our  country  or  ourselves.  I  am 
now  here,  on  a  visit  to  this  man's  wife,  attended  by  a 
corporal  of  dragoons  as  a  guard,  who  answers  very  well 
as  a  waiter,  guide,  etc.,  in  my  excursions  through  the 
country;  but  I  will  immediately  return  with  you  to  Mal- 
gares/ 

"Thus  ended  Robinson's  relation,  and  I  in  return 
related  what  had  occurred  to  the  party  and  myself.  We 
agreed  upon  our  future  line  of  conduct,  and  then  re- 
joined my  old  captain  in  the  house.  He  had  been  per- 
suaded to  tarry  all  night,  provided  it  was  agreeable  to 
me,  as  our  host  wished  Robinson  to  remain  until  the 
next  day.  With  this  proposition  I  complied,  in  order 
that  Robinson  and  myself  might  have  a  further  dis- 
cussion before  we  joined  Malgares,  who  I  suspected 
would  watch  us  closely.  The  troops  proceeded  to  the 
village  of  Tousac  that  evening." 

This  avowal  of  Dr.  Robinson  to  Lieutenant  Malgares 
now  obliged  Pike  to  write  back  to  Governor  Allencaster 
a  letter  in  which  he  gives  the  following  explanation  of 
his  denial  of  any  knowledge  of  the  doctor;  this  he  had 
already  justified  to  himself  on  the  ground  of  his  being 
a  volunteer,  and  not  under  command : 

"On  my  being  informed  of  his  embarrassments,  I 


292  Zebulon  M.  Pike 


conceived  it  would  be  adding  to  them  to  acknowledge  his 
having  accompanied  a  mihtary  party  to  the  frontiers 
of  the  province,  and  conceived  myself  bound  in  honor 
and  friendship  to  conceal  it;  but  his  scorning  any  longer 
the  disguise  he  assumed  has  left  me  at  liberty  to  make 
this  acknowledgment  to  your  Excellency,  which  I  hope 
will  sufficiently  exculpate  me  in  the  opinion  of  every 
man  of  honor,  and  of  the  world,  for  having  denied  a 
fact  when  I  conceived  the  safety  of  a  friend,  in  a  foreign 
country,  was  concerned  in  the  event." 

These  extracts  from  letters  preserved  in  the  War  De- 
partment illustrate  that  honorable  and  courteous  con- 
duct, which  Pike  exhibited  toward  all  with  whom  he 
came  into  relations. 

''Sunday,  Mar.  Sth.  Marched  after  taking  break- 
fast and  halted  at  a  little  village,  three  miles  distant, 
called  Tousac,  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Rio  del 
Norte.  The  men  informed  me  that,  on  their  arrival 
over  night,  they  had  all  been  furnished  with  an  excellent 
supper;  and  after  supper,  wine  and  a  violin,  with  a  col- 
lection of  the  young  people  to  a  dance.  When  we  left 
this  village  the  priest  sent  a  cart  down  to  carry  us  over, 
as  the  river  was  nearly  four  feet  deep.  When  we  ap- 
proached the  village  of  St.  Fernandez  we  were  met  by 
Lieutenant  Malgares,  accompanied  by  two  or  three 
other  officers;  he  received  me  with  the  most  manly 
frankness  and  the  politeness  of  a  man  of  the  world. 
Yet  my  feelings  were  such  as  almost  overpowered  me 
and  obliged  me  to  ride  by  myself  for  a  short  period  in 
order  to  recover  myself.     Those  sensations  arose  from 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        293 

my  knowledge  that  he  had  been  absent  from  Chihua- 
hua ten  months,  and  it  had  cost  the  king  of  Spain  more 
than  ;?  1 0,000  to  effect  that  (capture  of  myself  and 
party),  which  a  mere  accident  and  the  deception  of 
the  governor  had  accomplished. 

**  Malgares,  finding  that  I  did  not  feel  at  ease,  took 
every  means  in  his  power  to  banish  my  reserve,  which 
made  it  impossible  on  my  part  not  to  appear  cheerful. 
We  conversed  as  well  as  we  could,  and  in  two  hours  were 
as  well  acquainted  as  some  people  would  be  in  the  same 
number  of  months.  Malgares  possessed  nothing  of  the 
haughty  Castilian  pride,  but  much  of  the  urbanity  of  a 
Frenchman;  and  I  will  add  my  feeble  testimony  to  his 
loyalty,  by  declaring  that  he  was  one  of  the  few  officers 
or  citizens  whom  I  found  loyal  to  their  king,  who  felt 
indignant  at  the  degraded  state  of  the  Spanish  mon- 
archy, and  who  deprecated  a  revolution  or  separation  of 
Spanish  America  from  the  mother  country,  unless 
France  should  usurp  the  government  of  Spain.  These 
are  the  men  who  possess  the  heads  to  plan,  the  hearts 
to  feel,  and  the  hands  to  carry  this  great  and  important 
work  into  execution.  In  the  afternoon  our  friend  wrote 
the  following  notification  to  the  alcaldes  of  several 
small  villages  around  us: 

"*Send  this  evening  six  or  eight  of  your  handsomest 
young  girls  to  the  village  of  St.  Fernandez,  where  I 
propose  giving  a  fandango,  for  the  entertainment  of 
the  American  officers  arrived  this  day. 

"*DoN  Faciendo.' 


294  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"This  order  was  punctually  obeyed,  and  portrays 
more  clearly  than  a  chapter  of  observations  the  de- 
graded state  of  the  common  people.  In  the  evening, 
v^hen  the  company  arrived,  the  ball  began  after  their 
usual  manner,  and  there  was  really  a  handsome  display 
of  beauty. 

"It  will  be  proper  to  mention  here,  that  when  my 
small  paper  trunk  was  brought  in,  Lt.  Malgares  struck 
his  foot  against  it,  and  said:  *The  governor  informs 
me  this  is  a  prisoner  of  war,  or  that  I  have  charge  of  it; 
but,  sir,  only  assure  me  that  you  will  hold  the  papers 
therein  contained  sacred,  and  I  will  have  nothing  to 
do  with  it.'  I  bowed  assent;  and  I  will  only  add  that 
the  condition  was  scrupulously  adhered  to,  as  I  was 
bound  by  every  tie  of  military  and  national  honor, 
and,  let  me  add,  gratitude,  not  to  abuse  his  high  con- 
fidence in  the  honor  of  a  soldier.  He  further  added  that 
*  Robinson  being  now  acknowledged  as  one  of  your  party, 
I  shall  withdraw  his  guard  and  consider  him  as  under 
your  parole  of  honor.'  Those  various  marks  of  polite- 
ness and  friendship  caused  me  to  endeavor  to  evince  to 
my  brother  soldier  that  we  were  capable  of  appreciat- 
ing his  honorable  conduct  toward  us. 

"Mar,  gth.  The  troops  marched  about  ten  o'clock. 
Lt.  Malgares  and  myself  accompanied  Captain  D'Al- 
mansa  about  three  miles  back  on  his  route  to  Santa  Fe, 
to  the  house  of  a  citizen,  where  we  dined;  after  which 
we  separated.  I  wrote  by  the  captain  to  the  governor 
in  French  and  to  Father  Rubi  in  EngHsh.  D'Almansa 
presented  me  with  his  cap  and  whip,  and  gave  me  a 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        295 

letter  of  recommendation  to  an  officer  at  Chihuahua. 
We  returned  to  our  quarters  and,  being  joined  by  our 
waiters,  commenced  our  route. 

"Passed  a  village  called  St.  Thomas,  one  mile  dis- 
tant from  camp.  The  camp  was  formed  in  an  ellipsis, 
the  two  sides  presenting  a  breastwork  formed  of  the 
saddles  and  heads  of  the  mules,  each  end  of  the  ellipsis 
having  a  small  opening  to  pass  and  repass  at;  in  the 
centre  was  the  commandant's  tent.  Thus  in  case  of 
an  attack  on  camp,  there  were  ready-formed  works  to 
fight  from.  Malgares'  mode  of  living  was  superior  to 
anything  we  have  an  idea  of  in  our  army;  having  eight 
mules  loaded  with  his  common  camp  equipage,  wines, 
confectionery,  etc.  But  this  only  served  to  evince  the 
corruption  of  Spanish  disciphne;  for,  if  a  subaltern  in- 
dulged himself  with  such  a  quantity  of  baggage,  what 
would  be  the  cavalcade  attending  an  army  ?  Dr.  Rob- 
inson had  been  called  over  the  river  to  a  small  village 
to  see  a  sick  woman,  and  did  not  return  that  night. 
Distance  12  miles. 

"Mar,  loth.  Marched  at  eight  o'clock,  and  arrived 
at  the  village  Sibilleta;  passed  on  the  way  the  village  of 
Sabinez  on  the  west  side,  and  Xalales,  on  the  same  side. 
Sibilleta  is  situated  on  the  east  side,  and  is  a  regular 
square,  appearing  like  a  large  mud  wall  on  the  outside, 
the  doors,  windows,  etc.,  facing  the  square;  it  is  the 
neatest  and  most  regular  village  I  have  yet  seen,  and  is 
governed  by  a  sergeant,  at  whose  quarters  I  put  up. 

"Mar.  nth.  Marched  at  eleven  o'clock;  came  12 
miles  and  encamped,  the  troops  having  preceeded  us. 


296  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Lieutenant  Malgares,  not  being  well,  took  medicine. 
The  village  we  stayed  at  last  night  being  the  last,  we 
entered  the  wilderness  and  the  road  became  rough, 
small  hills  running  into  the  river,  making  valleys,  but 
the  bottoms  appear  richer  than  those  more  to  the  north. 
''Mar,  I2th.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock;  passed, 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  the  mountains  of  Mag- 
dalen, and  the  Black  mountains  on  the  east,  the  en- 
campment of  a  caravan  going  out  with  about  15,000 
sheep  from  the  other  provinces,  from  which  they  bring 
back  merchandise.  This  expedition  consisted  of  about 
300  men,  chiefly  citizens,  escorted  by  an  officer  and  35 
or  40  troops;  they  are  collected  at  Sibilleta  and  separate 
there  on  their  return.  They  go  out  in  February  and 
return  in  March;  a  similar  expedition  goes  out  in  the 
autumn,  but  during  the  other  parts  of  the  year  no  citizen 
travels  the  road,  the  couriers  excepted.  At  the  pass 
of  the  Rio  del  Norte  they  meet  and  exchange  packets, 
when  both  return  to  their  own  provinces.  Met  a  cara- 
van of  50  men  and  probably  200  horses,  loaded  with 
goods  for  New  Mexico.  Halted  at  twelve  o'clock,  and 
marched  at  three.  Lt.  Malgares  showed  me  the  place 
where  he  had  been  in  two  aff*airs  with  the  Apaches; 
one  he  corrimanded  himself,  and  the  other  was  com- 
manded by  Captain  D'Almansa;  in  the  former  there 
were  one  Spaniard  killed,  eight  wounded,  and  10 
Apaches  made  prisoners;  in  the  latter  52  Apaches  were 
wounded  and  17  killed,  they  being  surprised  in  the 
night.  Malgares  killed  two  himself,  and  had  two 
horses  killed  under  him. 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        297 

''Mar,  lyh.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock;  saw  many 
deer.  Halted  at  eleven  o'clock  and  marched  at  four 
o'clock.  This  day  one  of  our  horses  threw  a  young 
woman  and  ran  off,  as  is  the  habit  of  all  Spanish  horses, 
if  by  chance  they  throw  their  rider;  many  of  the  dra- 
goons and  Malgares  pursued  him.  Being  mounted  on 
an  elegant  horse  of  Malgares',  I  joined  in  the  chase,  and 
notwithstanding  their  superior  horsemanship  overtook 
the  horse,  caught  his  bridle  and  stopped  him,  when 
both  of  the  horses  were  at  nearly  full  speed.  This  act 
procured  me  the  applause  of  the  Spanish  dragoons, 
and  it  is  astonishing  how  much  it  operated  on  their 
good  will. 

"Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  halted  at  a  mountain; 
distance  10  miles.  This  is  the  point  from  which  the 
road  leaves  the  river  for  a  two  days'  journey  bearing 
due  south,  the  river  here  taking  a  turn  south-west; 
by  the  river  it  is  five  days  to  where  the  roads  meet. 
We  marched  at  four  o'clock,  and  eight  mules  crossed 
the  river  to  the  west  side;  two  mules  fell  in  the  water. 
Unfortunately  they  carried  the  stores  of  Lieutenant 
Malgares,  by  which  means  we  lost  all  our  bread,  an 
elegant  assortment  of  biscuits,  etc.     Distance  18  miles." 

In  crossing  the  Rio  Grande  here,  instead  of  following 
the  main  road  Malgares  avoided  what  was  known  as 
the  Jornada  del  Muerte,  Hterally  a  journey  of  the  dead, 
passing,  as  it  did,  over  arid  table-lands  and  a  barren, 
perilous  mountain  range,  without  water.  Rough  as  was 
their  route  on  the  west  side,  it  was  beguiled  by  much 
talk  concerning  the  Mescalaera  Apaches,  through  whose 


298  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

country  they  were  travelling,  and  of  whom  Lieutenant 
Malgares  told  many  things,  which  Pike  elsewhere  com- 
municated to  his  government,  and  are  here  worth  tell- 
ing. 

"Malgares  related  an  instance  when  he  was  marching 
with  140  men  and  they  were  attacked  by  a  party  of 
Apaches,  both  horse  and  foot,  who  continued  the  fight 
for  four  hours.  Whenever  the  Spanish  dragoons  would 
make  a  charge,  the  Apaches'  cavalry  would  retreat 
behind  the  infantry,  who  met  the  Spaniards  with  a 
shower  of  arrows,  who  immediately  retreated;  and  even 
the  gallant  Malgares  spoke  of  the  Spanish  cavalry's 
breaking  the  Apaches'  infantry  as  a  thing  not  to  be 
thought  of. 

"Malgares  assured  me  that  if  the  Apaches  had 
seconded  the  efforts  and  bravery  of  their  chieftain,  the 
Spaniards  must  have  been  defeated  and  cut  to  pieces; 
that  in  various  instances  he  rallied  his  men  and  brought 
them  up  to  the  charge,  and  that  when  they  fled,  he  re- 
tired indignantly  to  the  rear.  Seeing  Malgares  very 
actively  engaged  in  forming  and  bringing  up  the  Span- 
iards, the  Apache  chieftain  rode  out  ahead  of  the  party 
and  challenged  him  to  single  combat  with  his  lance. 
This  my  friend  refused,  as  he  said  that  the  chief  was 
one  of  the  stoutest  men  he  knew;  carried  a  remarkably 
heavy  lance,  and  rode  a  very  fine  charger;  but  one  of 
his  corporals,  enraged  to  see  the  Spaniards  braved  by 
this  savage,  begged  permission  to  meet  the  'infidel.' 
His  officer  refused  this  request  and  ordered  him  to  keep 
his  ranks;   but  he  reiterating  the  request,  his  superior 


Through  New  Mexico  to  El  Paso        299 

in  a  passion  told  him  to  go.  The  Indian  chief  had 
turned  his  horse  to  rejoin  his  party,  but  seeing  an  enemy 
advancing,  he  turned,  gave  a  shout,  and  met  him  at  full 
speed.  The  dragoon  thought  to  parry  the  lance  of  his 
antagonist,  which  he  in  part  effected;  but  not  throwing 
it  quite  high  enough,  it  entered  his  neck  before  and 
came  out  at  the  nape,  when  he  fell  dead  to  the  ground, 
and  his  victorious  enemy  gave  a  shout  of  victory,  in 
which  he  was  joined  by  all  his  followers.  This  enraged 
the  Spaniards  to  such  a  degree  that  they  made  a  general 
charge,  in  which  the  Indian  cavalry  again  retreated,  not- 
withstanding the  entreaties  of  their  gallant  leader. 

"In  another  instance  a  small  smoke  was  discovered 
on  the  prairie;  three  poor  savages  were  surrounded  by 
100  dragoons  and  ordered  to  lay  down  their  arms; 
they  smiled  at  the  officer's  demand,  and  asked  him  if 
he  could  suppose  that  men  who  had  arms  in  their  hands 
would  ever  consent  to  become  slaves.  The  officer,  being 
loath  to  kill  them,  held  a  conference  for  an  hour;  when, 
finding  that  his  threats  had  as  Httle  effect  as  his  entrea- 
ties, he  ordered  his  men  to  attack  them  at  a  distance, 
keeping  out  of  the  reach  of  their  arrows,  and  firing  at 
them  with  their  carabines,  which  they  did,  the  Indians 
never  ceasing  to  resist  as  long  as  life  remained. 

"In  a  truce  which  was  held  a  Spanish  captain  was 
ordered  to  treat  with  some  of  the  bands.  He  received 
their  deputies  with  hauteur,  and  they  could  not  come 
upon  terms.  The  truce  was  broken,  and  the  Indians 
retreated  to  their  fastnesses  in  the  mountains.  In  a 
day  or  two  this  same  officer  pursued  them.     They  were 


300  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

in  a  place  called  the  Door  in  the  Mountain,  where  but 
two  or  three  dragoons  could  enter  at  a  time,  and  there 
were  rocks  and  caves  on  the  flanks  behind  which  the 
Indians  secreted  themselves  until  a  number  of  the 
Spaniards  had  come  in.  Then  the  Indians  sounded  a 
trumpet;  the  attack  began,  and  continued  on  the  side  of 
the  Apaches  until  the  Spanish  captain  fell,  when  the 
Indian  chief  caused  the  firing  to  cease,  saying  that  the 
man  who  had  so  haughtily  spurned  the  proffered  peace 
was  now  dead.  On  this  occasion  they  deviated  from 
their  accustomed  rule  of  warfare,  and  made  a  prisoner  of 
a  young  officer,  who,  during  the  truce,  had  treated 
them  with  great  kindness,  and  sent  him  home  safe  and 
unhurt. 

"Some  of  the  bands  have  made  temporary  truces 
with  the  Spaniards,  and  received  from  them  25  cents 
per  diem  each.  Those  people  hang  round  the  fortifica- 
tions of  the  country,  drink,  shoot,  and  dissipate  their 
time;  they  are  haughty  and  independent.  Great  jeal- 
ousy exists  between  them  and  the  Spaniards.  An  offi- 
cer was  under  trial,  when  I  was  in  the  country,  for  antici- 
pating an  attack  on  his  fortress  by  attacking  the  chiefs 
of  the  supposed  conspiracy,  and  putting  them  to  death 
before  they  had  time  to  mature  and  carry  their  plans 
into  execution.  The  decision  of  the  case  I  never  learned; 
but  those  savages  who  have  been  for  some  time  about 
the  forts  and  villages  become  by  far  the  most  dangerous 
enemies  the  Spaniards  have,  when  hostile,  as  they  have 
acquired  the  Spanish  language,  manners,  habits,  pass 
through  the  populated  parts  under  the  disguise  of  civil- 


Through  New  Mexico  to  EI  Paso        301 

ized  and  friendly  Indians,  commit  murders  and  robber- 
ies and  are  not  suspected.  There  is  in  the  province  of 
Cogquilla,  a  partisan  by  the  name  of  Ralph,  who,  they 
calculate,  has  killed  more  than  300  persons.  He  comes 
into  the  town  under  the  disguise  of  a  peasant,  buys  pro- 
visions, goes  to  the  gaming-tables,  and  to  mass,  and 
before  he  leaves  the  village  is  sure  to  kill  some  person 
or  carry  off  a  woman,  which  he  has  frequently  done. 
Sometimes  he  joins  the  people  traveling  on  the  road, 
insinuates  himself  into  their  confidence  and  takes  his 
opportunity  to  assassinate  them.  He  has  only  six  fol- 
lowers, and  from  their  knowledge  of  the  country,  activity 
and  cunning,  he  keeps  about  300  Spanish  dragoons  con- 
tinually employed.  The  government  has  offered  ;^  1,000 
for  his  head. 

"Their  arms  are  the  bow  and  arrow,  and  the  lance. 
Their  bow  forms  two  demi-circles,  with  a  shoulder  in 
the  middle;  the  back  of  it  is  entirely  covered  with  sin- 
ews, which  are  laid  on  in  so  nice  a  manner,  by  the  use 
of  some  glutinous  substance,  as  to  be  almost  impercepti- 
ble; this  gives  great  elasticity  to  the  weapon.  Their 
arrow  is  more  than  the  "cloth  yard"  of  the  English, 
being  three  feet  and  a  half  long,  the  upper  part  consist- 
ing of  some  light  rush  or  cane,  into  which  is  inserted  a 
shaft  of  about  one  foot,  made  of  some  hard,  seasoned 
light  wood;  the  point  is  of  iron,  bone,  or  stone,  and, 
when  the  arrow  enters  the  body,  in  attempting  to  ex- 
tract it  the  shaft  comes  out  of  its  socket  and  the  point 
remains  in  the  wound.  With  this  weapon  they  shoot 
with  such  force  as  to  go  through  the  body  of  a  man  at  a 


302  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

distance  of  lOO  yards,  and  an  officer  told  me  that  in  an 
engagement  with  them,  one  of  their  arrows  struck  his 
shield  and  dismounted  him  in  an  instant.  Their  other 
weapon  of  offense  is  a  lance  of  15  feet  in  length,  with 
which  they  charge  with  both  hands  over  their  heads, 
managing  their  horses  principally  with  their  knees. 
With  this  weapon  they  are  considered  an  overmatch 
for  any  Spanish  dragoon  single-handed;  but,  for  want 
of  a  knowledge  of  tactics,  they  can  never  stand  the 
charge  of  a  body  which  acts  in  concert.  They  all 
carry  shields.  Some  few  are  armed  with  guns  and  am- 
munition taken  from  the  Spaniards.  Those,  as  well 
as  the  archers,  generally  march  to  war  on  foot;  but  the 
lancemen  are  always  mounted." 

The  warfare  between  the  Spaniards  and  the  Apaches 
began.  Pike  explains,  by  the  Spainards  endeavoring 
to  make  slaves  of  the  Indians.  When  the  Apaches 
resisted  they  were  shipped  to  Cuba.  The  outcome  was 
the  refusal  of  the  Apaches  to  take  or  give  quarter. 
Other  Indian  tribes  were  more  docile  and  became 
slaves  of  the  State.     Pike  relates  of  their  subjection: 

"I  was  myself  eye-witness  of  a  scene  which  made 
my  heart  bleed  for  those  poor  wretches,  at  the  same 
time  that  it  excited  my  indignation  and  contempt,  that 
they  would  suffer  themselves,  with  arms  in  their  hands, 
to  be  beaten  and  knocked  about  by  beings  no  ways  their 
superiors,  unless  a  small  tint  of  complexion  could  be 
supposed  to  give  that  superiority.  Before  we  arrived  at 
Santa  Fe,  one  night,  we  were  near  one  of  the  villages 
where  resided  the  families  of  two  of  our  Indian  horse- 


Through  New  Mexico  to  EI  Paso        303 

men.  They  took  the  Hberty  to  pay  them  a  visit  in  the 
night.  Next  morning  the  whole  of  the  Indian  horse- 
men were  called  up,  and  because  they  refused  to  testify 
against  their  imprudent  companions,  several  were 
knocked  down  from  their  horses  by  the  Spanish  dragoons 
with  the  butt  of  their  lances;  yet,  with  the  blood  stream- 
ing down  their  visages,  and  arms  in  their  hands,  they 
stood  cool  and  tranquil — not  a  frown,  not  a  word  of 
discontent  or  palliation  escaped  their  lips.  Yet  what 
must  have  been  the  boiling  indignation  of  their  souls 
at  the  indignities  offered  by  the  wretch  clothed  with 
a  Httle  brief  authority!  The  day  of  retribution  will 
come  in  thunder  and  in  vengeance. 

"Mar.  i6th.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  and  halted 
at  twelve.  Passed  on  the  east  side  the  Horse  Mountain, 
and  the  Mountain  of  the  Dead.  Came  on  a  trail  of  the 
appearance  of  200  horses,  supposed  to  be  the  trail  of 
an  expedition  from  the  province  of  Biscay,  against  the 
Indians. 

*'Mar.  ijth.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  at  four  in 
the  afternoon  crossed  the  river  to  the  east  side;  saw 
several  fresh  Indian  tracks;  also,  the  trail  of  a  large 
party  of  horses,  supposed  to  be  Spanish  troops  in  pursuit 
of  the  Indians.  Marched  down  the  river  26  miles; 
fresh  sign  of  Indians,  also  of  a  party  of  horses. 
Country  mountainous  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

"Mar,  21  st.  Marched  in  the  morning  and  arrived 
at  the  Passo  del  Norte  at  eleven  o'clock,  the  road  lead- 
ing through  a  hilly  and  mountainous  country.  We  put 
up  at  the  house  of  Don  Francisco  Garcia,  who  was  a 


304  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

merchant  and  a  planter;  he  possessed  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  town  20,000  sheep,  and  1,000  cows.  We  were  re- 
ceived in  a  most  hospitable  manner  by  Don  Pedro 
Roderique  Rey,  the  Lieutenant  Governor,  and  Father 
Joseph  Prado,  the  vicar  of  the  place.  This  was  by  far 
the  most  flourishing  place  we  had  been  in.'' 

Pike  is  now  at  El  Paso,  where  the  Rio  Grande  passes 
from  the  mountains  to  the  plains.  Although  he  does 
not  mention  it  he  has  doubtless  crossed  the  river  to  the 
Spanish  settlement,  which  we  now  know  as  Ciudad 
Juarez,  dating  from  1680,  while  the  Texan  town  of  El 
Paso,  as  late  as  1849  had  only  three  houses. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

THROUGH   OLD   MEXICO  TO  THE 
PRESIDIO  GRANDE 

March  22D — MAY31ST,  1807. 

*'  Sunday,  Mar.  22d.     Remained  at  the  Passo. 

*^Mar.  23^.  Mass  performed;  left  the  Passo  at 
three  o'clock,  to  Fort  Elisiaira,  accompanied  by  the 
lieutenant-governor,  the  vicar,  and  AUencaster,  a  brother 
of  the  governor.     Malgares,  myself,  and  the  doctor  took 

up  our  quarters  at  the  house  of  Capt.  y  who  was 

then  at  Chihuahua;  but  his  lady  and  sister  entertained 
us  in  a  very  elegant  and  hospitable  manner.  They  be- 
gan playing  cards  and  continued  until  late  the  third  day. 
Malgares,  who  won  considerably,  would  send  frequently 
;?I5  or  ;?20,  from  the  table  to  the  lady  of  the  house,  her 
sister,  and  others,  and  beg  their  acceptance,  in  order 
that  the  goddess  of  fortune  might  still  continue  propi- 
tious;  in  this  manner  he  distributed  ;?500. 

"Around  this  fort  were  a  great  number  of  Apaches, 
who  were  on  a  treaty  with  the  Spaniards.  These  people 
appeared  to  be  perfectly  independent  in  their  manners, 
and  were  the  only  savages  I  saw  in  the  Spanish  domin- 
ions whose  spirit  was  not  humbled — ^whose  necks  were 

305 


3o6  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

not  bowed  to  the  yoke  of  their  invaders.  With  those 
people  Malgares  was  extremely  popular.  I  beheve  he 
sought  popularity  with  them  and  all  the  common  people, 
for  there  was  no  man  so  poor  or  so  humble,  under  whose 
roof  he  would  not  enter;  when  he  walked  out,  I  have 
seen  him  put  a  handful  of  dollars  in  his  pocket,  and  give 
them  all  to  the  old  men,  women,  and  children  before  he 
returned  to  his  quarters;  but  to  equals  he  was  haughty 
and  overbearing.  This  conduct  he  pursued  through  the 
whole  provinces  of  New  Mexico  and  Biscay,  when  at 
a  distance  from  the  seat  of  government;  but  I  could 
plainly  perceive  that  he  was  cautious  of  his  conduct 
as  he  approached  the  capital.  I  here  left  a  letter  for 
my  sergeant. 

'^Mar.  26th.  Divine  service  was  performed  in  the 
morning,  in  the  garrison,  at  which  all  the  troops  at- 
tended under  arms.  At  one  part  of  their  mass,  they 
present  arms;  at  another,  sink  on  one  knee  and  rest  the 
muzzle  of  the  gun  on  the  ground,  in  signification  of 
their  submission  to  their  divine  master.  At  one  o'clock, 
we  bid  adieu  to  our  friendly  hostess,  who  was  one  of 
the  finest  women  I  had  seen  in  New  Spain.  At  dusk 
arrived  at  a  small  pond  made  by  a  spring  which  arose  in 
the  center,  called  the  Ogo  mall  a  Ukap,  and  seemed 
formed  by  providence  to  enable  the  human  race  to  pass 
that  route,  as  it  was  the  only  water  within  60  miles  on 
the  route.  Here  we  overtook  Sergeant  Belardie  with 
the  party  of  dragoons  from  Senora  and  Biscay,  who  had 
left  us  at  Fort  Elisiaira,  where  we  had  received  a  new 
escort.     Distance  20  miles. 


Through  Old  Mexico  307 

"Mar,  zyth.  Arrived  at  Carrical  at  twelve  o'clock. 
Distance  28  miles;  the  roads  well  watered  and  the  sit- 
uation pleasant.  The  father-in-law  of  our  friend  com- 
manded six  or  seven  years  here.  When  we  arrived  at 
the  fort,  the  commandant,  Don  Pedro  Rues  Sara- 
mende,  received  Robinson  and  myself  with  a  cold  bow 
and  informed  Malgares  that  he  could  repair  to  the  pubHc 
quarters.  To  this  Malgares  indignantly  replied  that  he 
should  accompany  us,  and  turned  to  go,  when  the  com- 
mandant took  him  by  the  arm,  made  many  apologies 
to  him  and  us,  and  we  at  length  reluctantly  entered  his 
quarters.  Here  for  the  first  time  I  saw  the  gazettes  of 
Mexico,  which  gave  rumors  of  Colonel  Burr's  conspir- 
acies, the  movements  of  our  troops,  etc.;  but  which 
were  stated  in  so  vague  and  undefined  a  manner  as 
only  to  create  our  anxiety  without  throwing  any  hght 
on  the  subject. 

"Mar.  Tpth.  Marched  before  seven  o'clock;  the 
front  arrived  at  water  at  eleven  o'clock;  the  mules,  at 
twelve.  The  spring  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  to  the 
east  of  the  road,  is  a  beautiful  situation.  I  here  saw 
the  first  ash  timber  I  observed  in  the  country.  This 
water  is  52  miles  from  the  Warm  Springs.  Yesterday 
and  to-day  saw  cabrie.  Marched  15  miles  further  and 
encamped  without  wood  or  water;  passed  two  other 
small  springs  to  the  east  of  the  road. 

'^Mar,  31J/.  Marched  early  and  arrived  at  an  ex- 
cellent spring  at  ten  o'clock.  The  roads  from  Senora, 
Tanos  Buenaventura,  etc.,  join  about  400  yards  before 
you  arrive  at  this  spring. 


3o8  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"Arrived  at  the  village  of  [hiatus]  at  night,  a  large 
and  elegant  house  for  the  country;  here  v^ere  various 
labors  carried  on  by  criminals  in  irons.  We  here  met 
a  Catalonian,  who  was  but  a  short  time  from  Spain, 
whose  dialect  was  such  that  he  could  be  hardly  under- 
stood by  Malgares,  and  whose  manners  were  much 
more  like  those  of  a  citizen  of  our  Western  frontiers 
than  of  a  subject  of  a  despotic  prince. 

'^  April  1st.  In  the  morning  Malgares  despatched  a 
courier  with  a  letter  to  the  Commandant-general  Sal- 
cedo,  to  inform  him  of  our  approach,  and  also  one  to 
his  father-in-law. 

''Apr.  2d.  When  we  arrived  at  Chihuahua,  we  pur- 
sued our  course  through  the  town  to  the  house  of  the 
general.  I  was  much  astonished  to  see  with  what 
anxiety  Malgares  anticipated  the  meeting  with  his  mili- 
tary chief.  Having  been  on  the  most  arduous  and  en- 
terprising expedition  ever  undertaken  by  any  of  his 
Majesty's  officers  from  these  provinces,  and  having  exe- 
cuted it  with  equal  spirit  and  judgment,  yet  was  he  fear- 
ful of  his  meeting  him  with  an  eye  of  displeasure.  He 
appeared  to  be  much  more  agitated  than  ourselves,  al- 
though we  may  be  supposed  to  have  also  had  our  sen- 
sations, as  on  the  will  of  this  man  depended  our  future 
destiny,  at  least  until  our  country  could  interfere  in  our 
behalf.  On  our  arrival  at  the  general's,  we  were  halted 
in  the  hall  of  the  guard  until  word  was  sent  to  the  general 
of  our  arrival,  when  Malgares  was  first  introduced.  He 
remained  some  time,  during  which  a  Frenchman  came 
up  and  endeavored  to  enter  into  conversation  with  us. 


WHEN  WE   ARRIVED  AT  CHIHUAHUA,  WE  PURSUED   OUR 
COURSE  THROUGH  THE  TOWN  TO   THE 
HOUSE   OF   THE    GENERAL." 


Through  Old  Mexico  309 

but  was  soon  frowned  into  silence,  as  we  conceived 
he  was  only  some  authorized  spy.  Malgares  at  last 
came  out  and  asked  me  to  walk  in.  I  found  the  gen- 
eral sitting  at  his  desk;  he  was  a  middle-sized  man, 
apparently  about  55  years  of  age,  with  a  stern  counte- 
nance; but  he  received  me  graciously  and  beckoned  to 
a  seat. 

"He  then  observed,  *  You  have  given  us  and  yourself 
a  great  deal  of  trouble.' 

^^  Captain  Pike.  *On  my  part  entirely  unsought, 
and  on  that  of  the  Spanish  government  voluntary.' 

^^ General  Salcedo.     'Where  are  your  papers?' 

"  Captain  Pike.  *  Under  charge  of  Lieutenant  Mal- 
gares.' 

"  Malgares  was  then  ordered  to  have  my  small  trunk 
brought  in,  which  being  done,  a  Lieutenant  Walker  came 
in,  who  is  a  native  of  New  Orleans,  his  father  an 
Englishman,  his  mother  a  French  woman,  and  who 
spoke  both  languages  equally  well,  also  Spanish.  He 
was  a  lieutenant  of  dragoons  in  the  Spanish  service, 
and  master  of  the  military  school  at  Chihuahua.  This 
same  young  gentleman  was  employed  by  Mr.  Andrew 
Ellicot,  as  a  deputy  surveyor  on  the  Florida  line  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Spain,  in  the  years  1797 
and  '98.  General  Salcedo  then  asked  him  to  assist  me 
in  taking  out  my  papers,  and  requested  me  to  explain 
the  nature  of  each;  such  as  he  conceived  were  relevant 
to  the  expedition  he  caused  to  be  laid  on  one  side, 
and  those  which  were  not  of  a  public  nature  on  the 
other;    the  whole  either  passing  through  the  hands  of 


3IO  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

the  general  or  of  Walker,  except  a  few  letters  from  my 
lady.  On  my  taking  these  up,  and  saying  they  were 
letters  from  a  lady,  the  general  gave  a  proof  that,  if 
the  ancient  Spanish  bravery  had  degenerated  in  the 
nation  generally,  their  gallantry  still  existed,  by  bowing; 
and  I  put  them  in  my  pocket.  He  then  informed  me 
that  he  would  examine  the  papers,  but  that  in  the  mean- 
while he  wished  me  to  make  out  and  present  to  him  a 
short  sketch  of  my  voyage,  which  might  probably  be 
satisfactory.  This  I  would  have  positively  refused, 
had  I  had  an  idea  that  it  was  his  determination  to  keep 
the  papers,  which  I  could  not  at  that  time  conceive, 
from  the  urbanity  and  satisfaction  which  he  appeared 
to  exhibit  on  the  event  of  our  interview.  He  then  told 
me  that  I  would  take  up  my  quarters  with  Walker,  in 
order,  as  he  said,  to  be  better  accommodated  by  having 
a  person  with  me  who  spoke  the  EngHsh  language; 
but  the  object,  as  I  suspected,  was  for  him  to  be  a  spy 
on  our  actions  and  on  those  who  visited  us. 

"Robinson  all  this  time  had  been  standing  in  the 
guard-room,  boiling  with  indignation  at  being  so  long 
detained  there,  subject  to  the  observations  of  the  soldiery 
and  gaping  curiosity  of  the  vulgar.  He  was  now  in- 
troduced, by  some  mistake  of  one  of  the  aides-de-camp. 
He  appeared  and  made  a  slight  bow  to  the  general,  who 
demanded  of  Malgares  who  he  was.  He  repHed,  'a 
doctor  who  accompanied  the  expedition.'  'Let  him 
retire,'  said  the  governor;  and  he  went  out. 

"The  general  then  invited  me  to  return  and  dine 
with    him,   and  we  went  to   the  quarters  of  Walker, 


Through  Old  Mexico  31  x 

where  we  received  several  different  invitations  to  take 
quarters  at  houses  where  we  might  be  better  accom- 
modated; but,  understanding  that  the  general  had  des- 
ignated our  quarters,  we  were  silent. 

"We  returned  to  dine  at  the  palace,  where  we  met 
Malgares,  who,  besides  ourselves,  was  the  only  guest. 
He  had  at  the  table,  the  treasurer  Truxillio,  and  a  priest 
called  Father  Rocus." 

The  inventory  of  papers  taken  from  Pike,  now  cap- 
tain, as  he  had  been  promoted  on  leaving  Bellefontaine, 
signed  by  Juan  Pedro  Walker  and  Francisco  Valesco, 
is  found  in  a  Congressional  report,  and  contains  a  com- 
plete list  of  all  he  had  with  him.  In  a  letter  to  General 
Wilkinson  written  at  Chihuahua,  he  says  it  would  have 
been  impossible  for  him  to  have  attempted  any  decep- 
tion concerning  them,  since  Walker,  the  Englishman, 
would  have  detected  it.  The  papers  he  had  left  with 
Sergeant  Meek  he  had  ordered  him  to  retain  by  force. 
This  order  the  sergeant  obeyed  to  the  letter,  killing  a 
Spaniard  to  do  it,  for  which  act.  Governor  Cordero  al- 
ludes to  him  as  "intractable."  Meek  was  never  able 
to  join  his  commander  again,  but  carried  his  notes 
safely  through,  and  these  with  the  copies  of  courses 
and  distances  made  by  Dr.  Robinson  aided  Pike  in  his 
subsequent  reports. 

While  in  Spanish  territory.  Pike  was  forbidden  pen 
and  ink.  Nevertheless  he  still  kept  his  journal,  made 
observations,  and  took  courses,  on  small  pieces  of  paper 
which  he  secreted  in  the  gun-barrels  of  his  men,  and  thus 
brought  them,  although  in  a  mutilated  state,  safely  out 


312  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

of  Mexico.  Meanwhile  he  gave  constant  attention  to 
everything  that  took  place,  and  collected  through  his 
eyes  a  great  deal  of  valuable  material  for  his  government. 
As  it  happened,  unfortunate  as  at  the  time  it  seemed,  the 
capture  of  these  papers  by  Governor  Salcedo  proved  to 
be  a  piece  of  good  fortune  for  their  owner;  since  they 
disclosed  no  evidence  that  Pike  was  in  any  way,  through 
General  Wilkinson,  implicated  in  the  conspiracy  of 
Aaron  Burr. 

*'  Apr.  3^.  Employed  in  giving  a  sketch  of  our  voy- 
age for  the  general  and  commandant  of  those  provinces. 
Introduced  to  Don  Bernardo  Villamil;  Don  Alberto 
Mayner,  lieutenant-colonel,  and  father-in-law  to  Mal- 
gares;  and  Don  Manuel  Zuloaga,  a  member  of  the  sec- 
retary's office,  to  whom  I  am  under  obligations  of  grati- 
tude, and  shall  remember  with  esteem.  Visited  his 
house  in  the  evening. 

''Apr.  4th.  Visited  the  hospital,  where  were  two  offi- 
cers, who  were  fine-looking  men,  and  I  was  informed 
had  been  the  gayest  young  men  of  the  province.  They 
were  moldering  away  by  disease,  and  there  was  not  a 
physician  in  his  Majesty's  hospitals  who  was  able  to 
cure  them;  but  after  repeated  attempts,  all  had  given 
them  up  to  perish.  This  shows  the  deplorable  state  of 
medical  science  in  the  provinces.  I  endeavored  to  get 
Robinson  to  undertake  the  cure  of  these  poor  fellows, 
but  the  jealousy  and  envy  of  the  Spanish  doctors 
made  it  impracticable. 

"  Sunday,  Apr.  ^th.  Visited  by  Lieutenant  Malgares, 
with  a  very  poHte  message  from  his  Excellency,  delivered 


Through  Old  Mexico  313 

in  the  most  impressive  terms,  with  offers  of  assistance, 
money,  etc.,  for  which  I  returned  my  respectful  thanks 
to  the  general.  Accompanied  Malgares  to  the  pubHc 
walk,  where  we  found  the  secretary.  Captain  Villamil, 
Zuloaga,  and  other  officers  of  distinction.  We  here 
likewise  met  the  wife  of  my  friend  Malgares,  to  whom 
he  introduced  us.  She  was,  like  all  the  other  ladies  of 
New  Spain,  a  little  en  hon  point,  but  possessed  the  na- 
tional beauty  of  eye  in  a  superior  degree.  There  was  a 
large  collection  of  ladies,  amongst  whom  were  two  of 
the  most  celebrated  in  the  capital — Senora  Maria  Con. 
Caberairi,  and  Senora  Marguerite  Vallois,  the  only  two 
ladies  who  had  spirit  sufficient,  and  their  husbands 
generosity  enough,  to  allow  them  to  think  themselves 
rational  beings,  to  be  treated  on  an  equality,  to  receive 
the  visits  of  their  friends,  and  give  way  to  the  hospital- 
ity of  their  dispositions  without  restraint.  They  were 
consequently  the  envy  of  other  ladies,  and  the  subject 
of  scandal  to  prudes;  their  houses  were  the  rendezvous 
of  all  the  fashionable  male  society;  and  every  man  who 
was  conspicuous  for  science,  arts,  or  arms,  was  sure  to 
meet  a  welcome.  We,  as  unfortunate  strangers,  were 
consequently  not  forgotten.  I  returned  with  Malgares 
to  the  house  of  his  father-in-law.  Lieutenant  Colonel 
Mayner,  who  was  originally  from  Cadiz,  a  man  of  good 
information. 

*'Apr,  6th.  Dined  with  the  general.  Writing,  etc. 
In  the  evening  visited  Malgares  and  the  secretary.  After 
dinner  wine  was  set  on  the  table  and  we  were  enter- 
tained with  songs  in  the  French,  Italian,  Spanish,  and 


314  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

English  languages.  Accustomed  as  I  was  to  sitting 
some  time  after  dinner  I  forgot  their  siesta,  or  reposes 
after  dinner,  until  Walker  suggested  the  thing  to  me 
and  we  retired. 

''Apr.  jth.  Dined  at  Don  Antonio  Caberairi's  in 
company  with  Villamil,  Zuloaga,  Walker,  etc.  Sent  in 
the  sketch  of  my  voyage  to  the  general.  Spent  the  even- 
ing at  Colonel  Mayner's  with  Malgares. 

''Apr,  Sth.  Visited  the  treasurer,  who  showed  me 
the  double-barreled  gun  given  by  Governor  Claiborne, 
and  another  the  property  of  Nolan. 

"Apr,  gth.  In  the  evening  I  was  informed  that  David 
Fero  was  in  town  and  wished  to  speak  to  me.  This 
man  had  formerly  been  ensign  in  my  father's  regiment, 
and  was  taken  with  Nolan's  party  at  the  time  the  latter 
was  killed.  He  possessed  a  brave  soul,  and  had  with- 
stood every  oppression,  since  being  made  prisoner,  with 
astonishing  fortitude.  Although  his  leaving  the  place 
of  confinement,  the  village  of  St.  Jeronimie,  without 
the  knowledge  of  the  general,  was  in  some  measure 
clandestine,  yet  a  countryman,  an  acquaintance  and 
formerly  a  brother  soldier,  in  a  strange  land,  in  dis- 
tress, had  ventured  to  see  me — could  I  deny  him  the 
interview  from  motives  of  delicacy  ?  No;  forbid  it 
humanity.     Forbid  it,  every  sentiment  of  my  soul. 

"Our  meeting  was  affecting,  tears  standing  in  his 
eyes.  He  informed  me  of  the  particulars  of  their  being 
taken,  and  many  other  circumstances  since  they  had 
been  in  this  country;  I  promised  to  do  all  I  could  for 
him  consistent  with  my  character  and  honor,  and  their 


Through  Old  Mexico  315 

having  entered  the  country  without  the  authority  of 
the  United  States.  As  he  was  obliged  to  leave  town 
before  day,  he  called  on  me  at  my  quarters,  when  I  bid 
him  adieu,  and  gave  him  what  my  purse  afforded,  not 
what  my  heart  dictated." 

Captain  Phillip  Nolan,  "well  known  for  his  athletic 
exertions  and  dexterity  in  catching  wild  horses,"  as  he  is 
described  by  a  traveller  of  his  time,  was  taken  prisoner 
and  killed  by  the  Spaniards  in  1801,  and  his  men  re- 
tained as  prisoners  by  the  Spaniards.  Concerning  these, 
and  particularly  Fero,  Pike  was  as  good  as  he  prom- 
ised, and  addressed  the  following  letter  to  General 
Salcedo : 

"Sir: 

"  I  hope  your  Excellency  may  not  attribute  it  to  pre- 
sumption or  a  disposition  to  intrude,  when  I  address 
you  on  a  subject  foreign  to  my  official  duties,  and  on 
which  I  can  only  speak  as  an  individual;  for  I  should 
feel  myself  wanting  in  humanity,  and  that  attention 
which  every  man  owes  to  his  fellow-creatures  in  distress, 
should  I  remain  silent,  more  especially  when  those  who 
are  compatriots,  and  some  of  them  former  companions, 
are  now  in  a  strange  country,  languishing  out  their  days 
far  from  their  friends  and  relations,  with  scarcely  a 
dawn  of  hope  remaining  of  ever  again  being  blessed  with 
a  view  of  their  native  homes.  It  is  scarcely  necessary 
to  add  that  I  allude  to  the  unfortunate  companions  of 
Nolan,  who,  having  entered  the  territories  of  his  Catho- 
lic Majesty  in  a  clandestine  manner,  equally  in  violation 


31 6  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

of  the  treaties  between  the  two  governments,  the  laws  of 
the  United  States,  and  those  of  Spain,  could  not  be  re- 
claimed or  noticed  by  their  own  country.  Yet,  from 
every  information  I  have  received  on  the  subject,  the 
men  of  the  party  were  innocent,  beheving  that  Nolan 
had  passports  from  the  Spanish  governor  to  carry  on  the 
traffic  of  horses.  I  pretend  not  to  justify  the  many 
irregularities  of  their  conduct  since  [they  have  been]  in 
the  Spanish  dominions;  but  hope  that  these  may  be 
viewed  with  an  eye  of  clemency,  as  the  men  are  most  of 
them  very  illiterate,  possessing  scarcely  any  part  of  an 
education. 

"  David  Fero  was  formerly  a  subaltern  in  a  company 
of  infantry  of  the  United  States  commanded  by  my 
father  at  the  time  I  served  as  a  volunteer,  but  left  the 
service,  as  I  have  been  informed,  owing  to  some  irregu- 
larities of  conduct.  His  having  been  once  my  compan- 
ion entitles  him  at  present  to  my  particular  attention;  yet 
I  will  here  mention  to  your  Excellency  a  circumstance 
which  may  appear,  if  known,  in  an  unfavorable  light, 
viz.:  About  15  days  past  I  was  informed  Fero  was  in 
town,  and  that  he  desired  to  see  me.  I  was  extremely 
mortified  at  receiving  the  information,  as  I  conceived 
he  must  have  left  his  post  in  a  clandestine  manner; 
yet  I  could  not  find  it  in  my  heart  to  refuse  the  interview, 
which  I  gave,  but  determined  at  the  same  time  to  inform 
you  of  the  circumstance,  conceiving  that  you  could  not 
look  on  it  as  a  matter  of  much  criminality. 

"  But  to  conclude,  I  have  to  beg  of  your  Excellency, 
if  it  be  in  your  power  and  consistent  with  the  line  of  con- 


Through  Old  Mexico  317 

duct  you  conceive  proper  to  pursue,  to  inform  me  if 
anything  can  be  done  toward  restoring  these  poor  fel- 
lows to  their  liberty,  friends,  and  country;  and  in  a 
particular  manner  I  intercede  for  Fero.  If  it  is  out  of 
the  power  of  the  general  to  grant  them  leave  to  return 
to  the  United  States,  I  beg  to  know  if  there  be  any 
objection  to  my  taking  letters  to  their  fathers,  wives, 
etc.  I  should  not  have  addressed  this  letter  to  the  gen- 
eral, had  I  not  conceived  the  fate  of  those  men  to  be  at 
his  disposal,  as  he  had  suffered  one  of  them  to  join  the 
service  of  his  CathoHc  Majesty;  neither  do  I  request 
the  honor  of  any  than  a  verbal  reply,  as  I  write  in  the 
character  of  an  individual,  not  as  an  officer  of  the 
United  States. 

"I  am,  Sir, 

"With  high  consideration, 

"Your  humble,  obedient  servant, 

"Z.  M.  Pike. 
"His  Excellency, 
"General  Nimesio  Salcedo." 

There  seems  to  have  been  no  answer  to  this  letter 
beyond  Salcedo's  verbalreply  that  he  had  found  the 
men  in  prison,  and  he  had  brought  them  to  Chihuahua, 
where  he  had  their  irons  removed.  He  had  then  re- 
ported their  case  to  the  King  of  Spain,  whose  orders  he 
awaited.  True  to  his  promise,  as  soon  as  Pike  arrived 
at  Nachitoches  he  sent  a  letter  to  the  newspapers  of  the 
United  States  concerning  the  prisoners,  hoping  in  this 
manner  to  inform  their  families  of  their  welfare. 


31 8  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Elsewhere  Pike  gives  a  description  of  the  city  Chihua- 
hua at  this  time:  "Its  population  may  be  estimated  at 
7000.  It  is  an  oblong  square,  on  the  east  side  of  a  small 
stream  which  discharges  into  the  River  Conchos.  On 
its  south  extremity  is  a  small  but  elegant  church.  In 
the  public  square  stands  the  principal  church,  royal 
treasury,  town-house,  and  the  richest  shops.  At  the 
western  extremity  is  another  church  for  the  military,  a 
superb  hospital  belonging  formerly  to  the  Jesuits'  pos- 
sessions, the  church  of  the  monks  of  St.  Francis,  St. 
Domingo,  the  military  academy,  and  quartel  del  tropa. 
On  the  north-west  were  two  or  three  missions,  very 
handsomely  situated  on  a  small  stream  which  comes  in 
from  the  west.  About  one  mile  to  the  south  of  the  town 
is  a  large  aqueduct  which  conveys  the  water  round  it, 
to  the  east,  into  the  main  stream  below  the  town,  in  the 
center  of  which  is  raised  a  reservoir  for  the  water,  whence 
it  is  to  be  conducted  by  pipes  to  the  different  parts  of  the 
city,  and  in  the  public  square  is  to  be  a  fountain  and 
jet  d'eau,  which  will  be  both  ornamental  and  useful. 
The  principal  church  at  Chihuahua  was  the  most  su- 
perb building  we  saw  in  New  Spain.  Its  whole  front 
was  covered  with  statues  of  the  apostles  and  the  different 
saints,  set  in  niches  of  the  wall,  and  the  windows,  doors, 
etc.,  were  ornamented  with  sculpture.  I  never  was 
within  the  doors,  but  was  informed  by  Robinson  that 
the  decorations  were  immensely  rich.  Some  men,  whom 
we  supposed  entitled  to  credit,  informed  us  that  the 
church  was  built  by  a  tax  of  12  J  cents  laid  on  each  ingot 
of  gold  or  silver  taken  out  of  the  mines  in  the  vicinity 


Through  Old  Mexico  319 

in  years.  Its  cost,  with  decorations,  was ;?  1,500,000  and 
when  it  was  finished  there  remained  ;?300,ooo  of  the  fund 
unappropriated.  At  the  south  side  of  Chihuahua  is 
^he  pubHc  walk,  formed  by  three  rows  of  trees  whose 
branches  nearly  entwine  over  the  heads  of  the  passengers 
below.  At  different  distances  there  are  seats  for  per- 
sons to  repose  on.  At  each  end  of  the  walks  there  were 
circular  seats,  on  which,  in  the  evening,  the  company 
collected  and  amused  themselves  with  the  guitar,  and 
songs  in  Spanish,  Italian,  and  French,  adapted  to  the 
voluptuous  manners  of  the  country.  In  this  city,  as 
well  as  all  others  of  any  consideration,  there  are  patrols 
of  soldiers  during  the  night,  who  stop  every  person  at 
nine  o'clock  and  examine  them.  My  countersign  was 
'Americans."' 

From  the  privations  of  the  Arkansas  and  the  perils  of 
the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Mountains  to  the  enforced  hospital- 
ities of  the  Spaniards  was  a  brief  space  in  point  of  time. 
The  change  could  not  have  been  unwelcome  to  the 
young  commander.  His  days  and  nights  were  spent 
in  riding  in  a  coach  with  his  friend  Malgares,  dining 
with  Colonel  Mayner,  drinking  port  with  the  Vallois, 
visiting  Secretary  Villa  mil,  and  various  afternoons  at 
the  hospital  and  gay  Caberaries.  Meanwhile  he  used 
his  eyes  and  ears  to  advantage  and  later  was  able  to 
give  the  following  lively  account  of  his  friends,  the 
enemy: 

"Their  women  have  black  eyes  and  hair,  fine  teeth, 
and  are  generally  brunettes.  I  met  but  one  exception 
to  this  rule,  at  Chihuahua — a  fair  lady,  who,  by  way 


320  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

of  distinction,  was  called  *the  girl  with  light  hair/ 
They  are  all  inclining  a  little  to  en  bon  point;  but  none 
or  few  are  elegant  figures.  Their  dress  generally  is  short 
jackets  and  petticoats  and  high-heeled  shoes,  without 
any  head-dress.  Over  the  whole  dress  they  have  a  silk 
wrapper,  which  they  always  wear  and,  when  in  the 
presence  of  men,  affect  to  bring  over  their  faces,  but 
from  under  which  you  frequently  see  peeping  a  large 
sparkling  black  eye.  As  we  approached  the  Atlantic 
and  our  frontiers,  we  saw  several  ladies  who  wore  the 
gowns  of  our  countrywomen,  which  they  conceived  to 
be  much  more  elegant  than  their  ancient  costume. 
The  lower  class  of  the  men  are  generally  dressed  in 
broad-brimmed  hats,  short  coats,  large  waistcoats,  and 
small  clothes  always  open  at  the  knees  (owing,  as  I  sup- 
pose, to  the  greater  freedom  it  gives  to  the  hmbs  on 
horseback),  a  kind  of  leather  boot  or  wrapper  bound 
round  the  leg  somewhat  in  the  manner  of  our  frontier- 
men's  leggings,  and  gartered  on.  The  boot  is  of  a  soft, 
pliable  leather,  but  not  colored.  In  the  eastern  prov- 
inces the  dragoons  wear,  over  this  wrapper  or  boot,  a 
sort  of  jack-boot  made  of  sole-leather,  to  which  are 
fastened,  by  a  rivet,  the  spurs,  the  gaffs  of  which  are 
sometimes  near  an  inch  in  length;  but  the  spurs  of  the 
gentlemen  and  officers,  although  clumsy  to  our  ideas, 
are  frequently  ornamented  with  raised  silver-work  on 
the  shoulders,  and  the  straps  embroidered  with  silver 
and  gold  thread.  They  are  always  ready  to  mount  their 
horses,  on  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  internal  provinces 
spend  nearly  half  the  day.     This  description  will  apply 


Through  Old  Mexico  321 

generally  to  the  dress  of  all  the  men  of  the  provinces  for 
the  lower  class;  but  in  their  cities,  among  the  more  fash- 
ionable, they  dress  after  the  European  or  United  States 
modes,  with  not  more  variation  than  we  see  in  our  cities 
from  one  six  months  to  another. 

"Both  men  and  women  have  remarkably  fine  hair, 
and  pride  themselves  in  the  display  of  it.  Their  amuse- 
ments are  music,  singing,  dancing,  and  gambling.  The 
latter  is  strictly  prohibited,  but  the  prohibition  is  not 

much  attended  to.     The  dance  of is  danced  by  one 

man  and  two  women,  who  beat  time  to  the  music,  which 
is  soft  and  voluptuous,  but  sometimes  changing  to  a 
lively,  gay  air.  The  dancers  exhibit  the  motions  of  the 
soul  by  gestures  of  the  body,  snapping  the  fingers,  and 
sometimes  meeting  in  a  stretched  embrace.  The  fan- 
dango is  danced  to  various  figures  and  numbers.  The 
minuet  is  still  danced  by  the  superior  class  only.  The 
music  made  use  of  is  the  guitar,  violin,  and  singers, 
who,  in  the  first-described  dance,  accompany  the  music 
with  their  hands  and  voices,  having  always  some  words 
adapted  to  the  music. 

"Their  games  are  cards,  billiards,  horse-racing,  and 
cock-fighting,  the  first  and  last  of  which  are  carried  to 
the  most  extravagant  lengths,  losing  and  winning  im- 
mense sums.  The  present  commandant-general  is  very 
severe  with  his  oflftcers  in  these  respects,  frequently  send- 
ing them  to  some  frontier  post  in  confinement  for 
months,  for  no  other  fault  than  having  lost  large  sums 
at  play.  At  every  town  of  consequence  is  a  public 
walk,  where  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  meet  and  sing 


322  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

songs,  which  are  always  on  the  subject  of  love  or  the 
social  board.  The  females  have  fine  voices,  and  sing 
in  French,  Italian,  and  Spanish,  the  whole  company 
joining  in  the  chorus. 

"In  their  houses  the  ladies  play  the  guitar,  and  gen- 
erally accompany  it  with  their  voices.  They  either  sit 
down  on  the  carpet  cross-legged,  or  loll  on  a  sofa.  To 
sit  upright  in  a  chair  appeared  to  put  them  to  great  in- 
convenience; although  the  better  class  would  some- 
times do  it  on  our  first  introduction,  they  soon  took  the 
liberty  of  following  their  old  habits.  In  their  eating 
and  drinking  they  are  remarkably  temperate.  Early 
in  the  morning  you  receive  a  dish  of  chocolate  and  a 
cake;  at  twelve  you  dine  on  several  dishes  of  meat, 
fowls,  and  fish,  after  which  you  have  a  variety  of  con- 
fections, and  indeed  an  elegant  dessert;  then  drink 
a  few  glasses  of  wine,  sing  a  few  songs,  and  retire 
to  take  a  siesta,  or  afternoon's  nap,  which  is  taken  by 
rich  and  poor.  About  two  o'clock  the  windows  and 
doors  are  all  closed,  the  streets  deserted,  and  the  still- 
ness of  midnight  reigns  throughout.  About  four  o'clock 
they  rise,  wash,  and  dress,  and  prepare  for  the  dissipa^ 
tion  of  the  night.  About  eleven  o'clock  some  refresh- 
ments are  offered,  but  few  take  any,  except  a  little  wine 
and  water  and  candied  sugar. 

"The  government  has  multiplied  the  difficulties  of 
Europeans  intermarrying  with  the  Creoles,  or  Metifs 
to  such  a  degree  that  it  is  difficult  for  such  a  marriage 
to  take  place.  An  officer  wishing  to  marry  a  lady  not 
from  Europe  is  obliged  to  acquire  certificates  of  the 


Through  Old  Mexico  323 

purity  of  her  descent  200  years  back,  and  transmit  it 
to  the  court,  when  the  Hcense  will  be  returned;  but 
should  she  be  the  daughter  of  a  man  of  the  rank  of 
captain  or  upward  this  nicety  vanishes,  as  rank  puri- 
fies the  blood  of  the  descendants. 

''Sunday,  Apr.  igth.     In  the  evening  at  a  fandango. 

''Apr.  20th.  We  this  day  learned  that  an  American 
officer  had  gone  on  to  the  city  of  Mexico.  This  was  an 
enigma  to  us  inexplicable,  as  we  conceived  that  the 
jealousy  of  the  Spanish  government  would  have  pre- 
vented any  foreign  officer  from  penetrating  the  country; 
and  why  the  United  States  could  send  an  authorized 
agent  to  the  viceroyalty,  when  the  Spanish  govern- 
ment had  at  the  seat  of  our  government  a  charge 
d'affaires,  served  but  to  darken  the  conjectures.  The 
person  alluded  to  was  Mr.  Burling,  a  citizen  of  Missis- 
sippi Territory  whose  mission  is  now  well  known  to 
the  government.  We  likewise  received  an  account  of  a 
commercial  treaty  having  been  entered  into  between 
Great  Britain  and  the  United  States,  which  by  the  Dons 
was  only  considered  as  the  preliminary  step  to  an  alli- 
ance offensive  and  defensive  between  the  two  nations. 

"Apr,  21  St.  Presented  the  commanding  general  with 
a  letter  for  General  Wilkinson,  which  he  promised  to 
have  forwarded  to  the  governor  of  Texas. 

"Apr.  22d.  Spent  the  day  in  reading  and  studying 
Spanish;    the  evening  at  Captain  Villamil's. 

"Apr.  2^d.  Dined  at  Don  Pedro  Vallois';  spent  the 
evening  with  Colonel  Mayner;  bade  him  adieu,  as  he 
was  to  march  the  next  day.     In  the  evening  received  a 


324  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

letter  from  the  commandant-general,  informing  me  my 
papers  were  to  be  detained,  giving  a  certificate  of  their 
numbers,  contents,  etc. 

*'  Apr.  24//1.  Spent  the  evening  at  Zuloaga's  with 
his  relations.  About  sundown  an  officer  of  the  govern- 
ment called  upon  me,  and  told  me  that  the  govern- 
ment had  been  informed  that,  in  conversations  in  all 
societies,  Robinson  and  myself  had  held  forth  political 
maxims  and  principles  which,  if  just,  I  must  be  con- 
scious if  generally  disseminated  would  in  a  very  few 
years  be  the  occasion  of  a  revolt  of  those  kingdoms; 
that  those  impressions  had  taken  such  effect  that  it  was 
no  uncommon  thing,  in  the  circles  in  which  he  asso- 
ciated, to  hear  the  comparative  principles  of  a  repub- 
Hcan  and  a  monarchical  government  discussed,  and 
even  the  allegiance  due,  in  case  of  certain  events,  to  the 
court  called  in  question;  that  various  characters  of 
consideration  had  indulged  themselves  in  those  conver- 
sations, all  of  whom  were  noted  and  would  be  taken  care 
of;  but  that,  as  respected  myself  and  companion,  it  was 
the  desire  of  his  Excellency  that  while  in  the  dominions 
of  Spain  we  would  not  hold  forth  any  conversations 
whatsoever,  either  on  the  subject  of  religion  or  politics. 

**  I  replied  that  it  was  true  I  had  held  various  and  free 
conversations  on  the  subjects  complained  of,  but  only 
with  men  high  in  office,  who  might  be  supposed  to  be 
firmly  attached  to  the  king,  and  partial  to  the  govern- 
ment of  their  country;  that  I  had  never  gone  among  the 
poor  and  illiterate,  preaching  up  repubhcanism  or  a  free 
government;  that  as  to  the  catholic  religion,  I  had  only 


Through  Old  Mexico  325 

combated  some  of  what  I  conceived  to  be  its  illiberal 
dogmas;  that  I  had  spoken  of  it  in  all  instances  as  a 
respectable  branch  of  the  Christian  religion  which,  as 
well  as  all  others,  was  tolerated  in  the  United  States; 
and  that,  had  I  come  to  that  kingdom  in  a  diplomatic 
character,  delicacy  toward  the  government  would  have 
sealed  my  lips;  or  had  I  been  a  prisoner  of  war,  personal 
safety  might  have  had  the  same  effect;  but,  being  there 
in  the  capacity  which  I  was,  not  voluntarily,  but  by 
coercion  of  the  Spanish  government,  which  at  the  same 
time  had  officially  notified  me  that  they  did  not  con- 
sider me  under  any  restraint  whatever;  therefore,  when 
called  on,  I  should  always  give  my  opinions  freely,  either 
as  to  politics  or  religion;  but  at  the  same  time  with  ur- 
banity, and  a  proper  respect  to  the  legitimate  authori- 
ties of  the  country  where  I  was. 

"He  repHed,  *Well,  you  may  then  rest  assured  your 
conduct  will  be  represented  in  no  very  favorable  point 
of  view  to  your  government.' 

"I  replied,  *To  my  government  I  am  certainly  re- 
sponsible, and  to  no  other.' 

"He  then  left  me.  I  immediately  waited  on  some 
of  my  friends  and  notified  them  of  the  threat,  at  which 
they  appeared  much  alarmed.  We  went  immediately 
to  consult  (Malgares),  who,  to  great  attachment  to  his 
friends,  joined  the  most  incorruptible  loyalty  to  his 
government.  Our  consultation  ended  in  a  determina- 
tion only  to  be  silent,  and  watch  events. 

"We  suspected  Walker  to  be  the  informant,  but, 
whether  just  in  our  suspicion  or  not,  I  will  not  pretend 


326  Zebulon  M.  Pike 


to  determine;  for  Robinson  and  myself  frequently 
used  to  hold  conversations  in  his  presence  purposely  to 
have  them  communicated;  but  at  last  he  discovered 
our  intentions,  and  told  us  that  if  we  calculated  on 
making  him  a  carrier  of  news,  we  were  mistaken;  that 
he  despised  it. 

*' Apr,  2yh.  At  eleven  o'clock  we  called  on  his  Ex- 
cellency, but  was  informed  that  he  was  engaged.  About 
three  o'clock  I  received  a  message  from  him  by  Lieu- 
tenant Walker,  informing  me  he  was  surprised  I  had 
not  returned,  and  to  call  without  ceremony  in  the  even- 
ing; which  I  did,  and  presented  him  with  a  letter.  He 
then  also  candidly  informed  me  my  party  would  not  join 
me  in  the  territory  of  the  king  of  Spain,  but  that  they 
should  be  attended  to  punctually,  and  forwarded  on 
immediately  after  me;  and  requested  that  I  should  give 
orders  to  my  sergeant  to  deliver  up  all  his  ammunition, 
and  dispose  in  some  manner  of  the  horses  he  had  in 
charge.  I  stated  in  reply  that,  with  respect  to  am- 
munition, I  would  give  orders  to  my  sergeant  to  deliver, 
if  demanded,  all  they  possessed,  more  than  was  neces- 
sary to  fill  their  horns;  but,  as  to  the  horses,  I  consid- 
ered their  loss  was  a  charge  that  must  be  adjusted  be- 
tween the  two  governments,  and  therefore  should  not 
give  any  directions  concerning  them,  except  as  to  bring- 
ing them  on  as  far  and  as  long  as  they  were  able  to 
travel.  He  then  gave  me  an  invitation  to  dine  with  him 
on  the  morrow. 

'* Sunday,  Apr,  26th.  Dined  at  the  general's.  In 
the  evening  went  to  Malgares*,  Zuloaga's  and  others. 


Through  Old  Mexico  327 

Wrote  to  my  sergeant  and  Fero;  to  the  latter  of  whom 
I  sent  ;?io,  and  to  the  others  ;?  16 1.84,  to  purchase 
clothes  for  the  party.  We  had  been  some  time  sus- 
picious that  the  doctor  was  to  be  detained;  but  this 
evening  he  likewise  obtained  permission  to  pursue  his 
journey  with  me,  which  diffused  general  joy  through- 
out the  party. 

''Apr,  2'jth,  Spent  the  day  in  making  arrangements 
for  our  departure,  writing  to  the  sergeant,  etc. 

"I  will  here  mention  some  few  anecdotes  relative  to 
[Walker],  with  whom  we  boarded  during  our  stay  in 
Chihuahua.  When  we  came  to  the  city  we  went  to  his 
quarters,  by  order  of  the  general,  and  considered  our- 
selves as  guests,  having  not  the  least  idea  that  we  should 
be  charged  with  board,  knowing  with  what  pleasure  any 
American  officer  would  receive  and  entertain  a  foreign 
brother  soldier  situated  as  we  were,  and  that  we  should 
conceive  it  a  great  insult  to  be  offered  pay  under  similar 
circumstances.  But  one  day,  after  we  had  been  there 
about  a  week,  he  presented  to  me  an  account  for  Robin- 
son's and  my  board,  receipted,  and  begged,  if  the  general 
inquired  of  me,  that  I  would  say  I  had  paid  it.  This 
naturally  led  me  to  demand  how  the  thing  originated. 
He  with  considerable  embarrassment  observed  that  he 
had  taken  the  liberty  to  remark  to  the  general  that  he 
thought  he  should  be  allowed  an  extra  allowance,  in  or- 
der to  be  enabled  to  treat  us  with  some  little  distinction. 
The  general  flew  into  a  violent  passion,  and  demanded 
if  I  had  not  paid  him  for  our  board  .?  To  which  the 
other  rephed.  No,  he  did  not  expect  pay  of  us.     He 


328  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

ordered  him  immediately  to  demand  pay,  to  receive  it, 
sign  a  receipt,  and  lodge  it  in  his  hands;  and  added  that 
he  would  consult  me  if  the  thing  was  done.  This  he 
never  did;  yet  I  took  care,  every  Sunday  after  that,  to 
deposit  in  the  hands  of  Walker  a  sum  which  was  con- 
sidered the  proportion  for  Robinson  and  myself.  Mal- 
gares  and  several  others  of  the  Spanish  officers  having 
heard  of  the  thing,  waited  on  us  much  mortified,  saying 
with  what  pleasure  they  would  have  entertained  us  had 
not  the  designation  of  the  general  pointed  out  his  will 
on  the  subject. 

"[Walker]  had  living  with  him  an  old  negro,  the  only 
one  I  saw  on  that  side  of  St.  Antonio,  who  was  the  prop- 
erty of  some  person  who  resided  near  Natchez,  and 
who  had  been  taken  with  Nolan.  Having  been  ac- 
quainted with  him  in  the  Mississippi  country,  he  so- 
licited and  obtained  permission  for  old  Caesar  to  live 
with  him.  I  found  him  very  communicative  and  use- 
ful. The  day  I  arrived,  when  we  were  left  alone,  he 
came  in,  looked  round  at  the  walls  of  the  room,  and 
exclaimed,  'What,  all  gone.'  I  demanded  an  expla- 
nation, and  he  informed  me  that  the  maps  of  the  different 
provinces,  as  taken  by  Walker,  and  other  surveyors, 
had  been  hung  up  against  the  walls;  but  that  the  day  we 
arrived  they  had  all  been  taken  down  and  deposited  in  a 
closet  which  he  designated. 

*  He  gave  various  reasons  for  having  left  the  United 
Spates  and  joined  the  Spanish  service;  one  of  which  was, 
his  father  having  been  ill-treated,  as  he  conceived,  by  G. 
at  Natchez.     At  Chihuahua  he  had  charge  of  the  mili- 


Through  Old  Mexico  329 

tary  school,  which  consisted  of  about  15  young  men  of 
the  first  famihes  of  the  provinces;  also  of  the  public 
water-works  of  the  city,  on  a  plan  devised  by  the  royal 
engineer  of  Mexico;  of  the  building  of  a  church;  of 
the  casting  of  small  artillery,  fabrication  of  arms,  etc. 
Thus,  though  he  had  tendered  his  resignation,  they 
knew  his  value  too  well  to  part  with  him,  and  would 
not  accept  of  it,  but  still  kept  him  in  a  subordinate 
position,  in  order  that  he  might  be  more  dependent  and 
more  useful.  Although  he  candidly  confessed  his  dis- 
gust at  their  service,  manners,  morals,  and  political 
estabhshments,  yet  he  never  made  a  communication  to 
us  which  he  was  bound  in  honor  to  conceal;  but  on  the 
contrary  fulfilled  the  station  of  informer  which  in  that 
country  is  considered  no  disgrace,  with  great  punctual- 
ity. In  this  city  the  proverb  was  literally  true  that 
'walls  have  ears';  for  scarcely  anything  could  pass  that 
his  Excellency  did  not  know  in  a  few  hours. 

*Tn  the  evening  I  was  notified  to  be  ready  to  march 
the  next  day  at  three  o'clock. 

''Apr.  zSth.  In  the  morning  Malgares  waited  on  us, 
and  informed  us  he  was  to  accompany  us  some  distance 
on  the  route.  After  bidding  adieu  to  all  our  friends,  we 
marched  at  a  quarter  past  three  o'clock,  and  encamped 
at  nine  o'clock  at  a  stony  spring;  passed  near  Chihua- 
hua, a  small  ridge  of  mountains,  and  then  encamped 
in  a  hollow. 

"As  we  were  riding  along  Malgares  rode  up  to  me 
and  informed  me  that  the  general  had  given  orders 
that   I  should  not  be  permitted  to  make  any  astro- 


330  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

nomical  observations.  To  this  I  replied  that  he  well 
knew  I  never  had  attempted  making  any  since  I  had 
been  conducted  into  the  Spanish  dominions. 

"When  about  to  make  my  journal,  Malgares  changed 
color,  and  informed  me  it  was  his  orders  I  should  not 
take  notes;  but  added,  *you  have  a  good  memory,  and 
when  you  get  to  Cogquilla  you  can  bring  it  all  up.' 
At  first  I  felt  considerably  indignant,  and  was  on  the 
point  of  refusing  to  comply;  but  thinking  for  a  moment 
of  the  many  politenesses  I  had  received  from  his  hands 
induced  me  merely  to  bow  assent  with  a  smile.  We 
proceeded  on  our  route,  but  had  not  gone  far  before  I 
made  a  pretext  to  halt,  established  my  boy  as  a  vedet, 
sat  down  peaceably  under  a  bush,  and  made  my  notes. 
This  course  I  pursued  ever  after,  not  without  some  very 
considerable  degree  of  trouble  to  separate  myself  from 
the  party. 

"Arrived  at  the  fort  of  St.  Paul  at  eleven  o'clock,  situ- 
ated on  a  small  river  of  the  same  name.  At  the  time 
we  were  there  the  river  was  not  wider  than  a  mill 
stream;  but  sometimes  it  is  300  yards  wide,  and  im- 
passable.    Distance  30  miles. 

'^  Apr,  ^oth.  Marched  at  six  o'clock,  and  at  eleven 
arrived  at  the  river  Conchos — 24  miles;  beautiful  green 
trees  on  its  banks.  I  was  taken  very  sick  at  half-past  ten 
o'clock.  Arrived  at  night  at  a  small  station  on  the  river 
Conchos,  garrisoned  by  a  sergeant  and  10  men  from  Fort 
Conchos,  15  leagues  up  said  river.     Distance  43  miles. 

''May  1st.  Marched  up  the  Conchos  to  its  con- 
fluence with  the  river  Florida,  15  leagues  from  where 


Through  Old  Mexico  331 

we  left  the  former  river,  and  took  up  the  latter,  which 
bears  from  the  Conchos  S.  80  and  50  E.  On  its  banks 
are  some  very  flourishing  settlements,  and  they  are  well 
timbered.  A  poor  miserable  village  is  at  the  confluence. 
Came  10  miles  up  the  Florida  to  dinner,  and  at  night 
stopped  at  a  private  house.  This  property,  or  plan- 
tation, was  valued  formerly  at  ^300,000,  extending  on 
the  Florida,  from  the  place  where  we  slept  on  the 
30th  of  April,  30  leagues  up  said  river.  Distance  45 
miles. 

"  Finding  that  a  new  species  of  discipline  had  taken 
place,  and  that  the  suspicions  of  my  friend  Malgares 
were  much  more  acute  than  ever,  I  conceived  it  neces- 
sary to  take  some  steps  to  secure  the  notes  I  had  taken, 
which  had  been  clandestinely  acquired.  In  the  night 
I  arose,  and  after  making  my  men  charge  all  their 
pieces  well,  I  took  my  small  books  and  rolled  them  up 
in  small  rolls,  tore  a  fine  shirt  to  pieces,  and  wrapped  it 
round  the  papers,  and  put  them  down  in  the  barrels  of 
the  guns,  until  we  just  left  room  for  the  tompoins  [tam- 
pions], which  were  then  carefully  put  in;  the  remainder 
we  secured  about  our  bodies  under  our  shirts.  This 
occupied  about  two  hours,  but  was  effected  without 
discovery  and  without  suspicions. 

''May  2d,  Marched  early,  and  in  4 J  hours  arrived 
at  Guaxequillo,  situated  on  the  river  Florida,  where  we 
were  to  exchange  our  friend  Malgares  for  Captain  Bar- 
elo,  who  was  a  Mexican  by  birth,  born  near  the  capital 
and  entered  as  a  cadet  at  Guaxequillo  near  20  years  past, 
and  who,  by  his  extraordinary  merits,  being  a  Creolian, 


332  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

had  been  promoted  to  a  captaincy,  which  was  even  by 
himself  considered  his  ultimate  promotion.  He  was 
a  gentleman  in  his  manners,  generous  and  frank,  and  I 
believe  a  good  soldier. 

**  Sunday,  May  i^d.  At  Guaxequillo  the  captain  gave 
up  his  command  to  Malgares.  At  night  the  officers 
gave  a  ball,  at  which  appeared  at  least  sixty  women, 
ten  or  a  dozen  of  whom  were  very  handsome. 

**May  ^h.  Don  Hymen  Guloo  arrived  from  Chi- 
huahua, accompanied  by  a  citizen  and  a  friar,  who  had 
been  arrested  by  order  of  the  commandant-general,  and 
was  on  his  way  to  Mexico  for  trial. 

*'May  6th.  Marched  at  five  o'clock;  ascended  the 
river  four  miles,  when  we  left  it  to  our  right  and  took 
DfF  S.  60°  E.,  eight  miles.  Our  friend  Malgares  accom- 
panied us  a  few  miles,  to  whom  we  bade  an  eternal 
adieu,  if  war  does  not  bring  us  together  in  the  field  of 
battle  opposed  as  the  most  deadly  enemies,  when  our 
hearts  acknowledge  the  greatest  friendship.  Halted  at 
ten  o'clock  and  marched  again  at  four.  No  water  on 
the  road;  detached  a  Spanish  soldier  in  search  of  some, 
who  did  not  join  us  until  twelve  o'clock  at  night.  En- 
camped in  the  open  prairie;  no  wood;  no  water,  ex- 
cept what  the  soldier  brought  us  in  gourds.  The  mules 
came  up  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night.     Distance  30  miles. 

"May  Jth.  Marched  very  early;  wind  fresh  from 
the  south.  The  punctuality  of  Captain  Barelo  as  to 
hours  was  remarkable.  Arrived  at  half  past  nine 
o'clock  at  a  Spring,  the  first  water  from  Guaxequillo. 
The  mules  did  not  unload,  but  continued  nine  miles 


Through  Old  Mexico  333 

to  another  spring  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  with  good 
pasturage  round  it;  mountains  on  each  side  all  day. 

^^May  gth.  Marched  between  four  and  five  o'clock 
and  arrived  at  Pelia  at  eight.  This  is  only  a  station 
for  a  few  soldiers,  but  is  surrounded  by  mines.  At  this 
place  are  two  large  warm  springs,  strongly  impregnated 
with  sulphur,  and  this  is  the  water  obliged  to  be  used 
by  the  party  who  are  stationed  there.  Here  we  re- 
mained all  day.  Captain  Barelo  had  two  beeves  killed 
for  his  and  my  men,  and  charged  nothing  to  either. 
Here  he  received  orders  from  the  general  to  lead  us 
through  the  wilderness  to  Montelovez,  in  order  that  we 
should  not  approximate  to  the  frontiers  of  Mexico, 
which  we  should  have  done  by  the  usual  route  to  Patos, 
Parras,  etc. 

'' Sunday,  May  loth.  Marched  past  one  copper 
mine,  now  dihgently  worked.  At  this  place  the  pro- 
prietor had  100,000  sheep,  cattle  and  horses,  etc.  Ar- 
rived at  the  Cadena,  a  house  built  and  occupied  by  a 
priest.  It  is  situated  on  a  small  stream  at  a  pass  of  the 
mountains,  called  by  the  Spaniards  Door  of  the  Prison, 
from  its  being  surrounded  by  mountains.  The  pro- 
prietor was  at  Sumbratto,  distance  six  days  march. 
This  hacienda  was  obliged  to  furnish  accommodations 
to  all  travellers. 

''May  nth.  Marched  and  arrived  at  Maupemie  at 
eight  o'clock,  a  village  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  moun- 
tain of  minerals,  where  they  worked  eight  or  nine 
mines.  The  mass  of  the  people  were  naked  and  starved 
wretches.     The  proprietor  of  the  mines  gave  us  an  ele- 


334  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

gant  repast.  Here  the  orders  of  Salcedo  in  regard  to 
the  change  of  route  were  explained  to  me  by  the  cap- 
tain. I  replied  that  they  excited  my  laughter,  as  there 
were  disaffected  persons  sufficient  to  serve  as  guides 
should  an  army  ever  come  to  this  country. 

"Came  on  three  miles  further,  where  were  fig-trees 
and  a  fruit  called  by  the  French,  La  Grain,  situated  on 
a  Httle  stream  which  flowed  through  the  gardens,  and 
formed  a  terrestrial  paradise.  Here  we  remained  all 
day  sleeping  in  the  shade  of  the  fig-trees,  and  at  night 
continued  our  residence  in  the  garden.  We  obliged  the 
inhabitants  with  a  ball,  who  expressed  great  anxiety 
for  a  relief  from  their  present  distressed  state,  and  a 
change  of  government. 

''May  12th,  Was  awakened  in  the  morning  by  the 
singing  of  the  birds  and  the  perfume  of  the  trees  around. 
I  attempted  to  send  two  of  my  soldiers  to  town  but  they 
were  overtaken  by  a  dragoon  and  ordered  back;  on 
their  return  I  again  ordered  them  to  go,  and  told  them 
if  a  soldier  attempted  to  stop  them  to  take  him  off^  his 
horse  and  flog  him.  This  I  did,  as  I  conceived  it  was 
the  duty  of  the  captain  to  explain  his  orders  relative  to 
me,  which  he  had  not  done;  and  I  conceived  that  this 
would  bring  on  an  explanation.  They  were  pursued 
by  a  dragoon  through  the  town,  who  rode  after  them, 
making  use  of  ill  language.  They  attempted  to  catch 
him  but  could  not.  As  I  had  mentioned  my  intention 
of  sending  my  men  to  town  after  some  stores  to  Captain 
Barelo,  and  he  had  not  made  any  objections,  I  con- 
ceived it  was  acting  with  duplicity  to  send  men  to  watch 


Through  Old  Mexico  335 

the  movements  of  my  messengers.  I  therefore  deter- 
mined they  should  punish  the  dragoon  unless  the  cap- 
tain had  candor  sufficient  to  explain  his  reasons  for  not 
wishing  my  men  to  go  to  town,  in  which  wish  I  should 
undoubtedly  have  acquiesced;  but  as  he  never  men- 
tioned the  circumstance,  I  was  guardedly  silent,  and 
the  affair  never  interrupted  our  harmony. 

"We  marched  at  five  o'clock;  came  on  15  miles  and 
encamped  without  water.  One  mile  on  this  side  of  the 
little  village  the  road  branches  out  into  three.  The 
right-hand  one  by  Pattos,  Paras,  Saltelo,  etc.,  is  the 
main  road  to  [the  city  of]  Mexico  and  San  Antonio. 
The  road  which  we  took  leaves  all  the  villages  a  little 
to  the  right,  passing  only  some  plantations.  The  left- 
hand  one  goes  immediately  through  the  mountains  to 
Montelovez,  but  is  dangerous  for  small  parties  on  ac- 
count of  the  savages;  this  road  is  called  the  route  by  the 
Bolson  of  Maupeme,  and  was  first  traveled  by  Mon- 
sieur de  Croix,  afterward  viceroy  of  Peru.  In  passing 
from  Chihuahua  to  Texas,  by  this  route,  you  make  in 
seven  days  what  it  takes  you  15  or  20  by  the  ordinary 
one;  but  it  is  very  scarce  of  water,  and  your  guards 
must  either  be  so  strong  as  to  defy  the  Apaches,  or  cal- 
culate to  escape  them  by  swiftness;  for  they  fill  those 
mountains,  whence  they  continually  carry  on  a  preda- 
tory war  against  the  Spanish  settlements  and  caravans. 

"We  this  day  passed  on  to  the  territories  of  the  Mar- 
quis de  San  Miquel,  who  owns  from  the  mountains  of 
the  Rio  del  Norte  to  some  distance  in  the  kingdom  of 
Old  Mexico. 


336  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"May  lyh.  Came  on  to  the  river  Brasses,  on  which 
was  the  Ranche  de  St.  Antonio,  part  of  the  marquis' 
estate.  My  boy  and  self  halted  at  the  river  Brasses  to 
water  our  horses,  having  ridden  on  ahead,  and  took 
their  bridles  from  their  mouths  in  order  that  they  might 
drink  freely,  which  they  could  not  do  with  Spanish 
bridles.  The  horse  I  rode  had  been  accustomed  to 
being  held  by  his  master  in  a  peculiar  manner  when 
bridled,  and  would  not  let  me  put  it  on  again  for  a  long 
time;  in  the  meantime  my  boy's  horse  ran  away,  and 
it  was  out  of  our  power  to  catch  him  again.  But 
when  we  arrived  at  the  Ranche,  we  soon  had  out  a 
number  of  boys,  who  brought  in  the  horse  and  all  his 
different  equipments,  which  were  scattered  on  the  route. 
This  certainly  was  a  strong  proof  of  their  honesty,  and 
did  not  go  unrewarded.  In  the  evening  we  gave  them 
a  ball  on  the  green,  according  to  custom.  We  here 
learned  that  one  peck  of  corn,  with  three  pounds  of  meat 
per  week,  was  the  allowance  given  a  grown  person. 

''May  i^h.  Did  not  march  until  half  past  four 
o'clock  [p.  m.].  About  nine  o'clock  an  officer  arrived 
from  St.  Rosa  with  24  men,  with  two  Apaches  in  irons. 
They  were  noble  looking  fellows,  of  large  stature,  and 
appeared  by  no  means  cast  down  by  their  misfortunes, 
although  they  knew  their  fate  was  transportation  be- 
yond the  sea,  never  more  to  see  their  friends  and  rela- 
tions. 

"Knowing  as  I  did  the  intention  of  the  Spaniards 
toward  those  people,  I  would  have  liberated  them  if  in 
my  power,     I  went  near  them,  gave  them  to  understand 


Through  Old  Mexico  337 

we  were  friends,  and  conveyed  to  them  some  articles 
which  would  be  of  service  if  chance  offered. 

"This  day  the  thermometer  stood  at  30°  Reaumur 
99  J °  Fahrenheit.  The  dust  and  drought  of  the  road 
obliged  us  to  march  in  the  night,  when  we  came  15 
miles  and  encamped  without  water.  Indeed,  this  road 
which  the  general  obliged  us  to  take  is  almost  impas- 
sable at  this  season  for  want  of  water,  whilst  the  other 
is  plentifully  supphed. 

''May  lyh.  Marched  early  and  came  on  five  miles, 
when  we  arrived  at  a  pit  dug  in  a  hollow,  which  afforded 
a  small  quantity  of  water  for  ourselves  and  beasts. 
Here  we  were  obliged  to  remain  all  day  in  order  to  travel 
in  the  night,  as  our  beasts  could  enjoy  the  benefit  of 
water.  Left  at  half  past  five  o'clock  and  came  on  15 
miles  by  eleven  o'clock,  when  we  encamped  without 
water  or  food  for  our  beasts.  Passed  a  miserable 
burnt-up  soil.     Distance  20  miles. 

''Sunday,  May  ijth.  Marched;  about  seven  o'  clock 
came  in  sight  of  Paras,  which  we  left  on  the  right  and 
halted  at  the  hacienda  of  St.  Lorenzo,  a  short  league 
to  the  north  of  said  village.  At  the  hacienda  of  St. 
Lorenzo  was  a  young  priest,  who  was  extremely  anxious 
for  a  change  of  government,  and  came  to  our  beds  and 
conversed  for  hours  on  the  subject. 

"May  iSth.  Marched  early  and  came  through  a 
mountainous  tract  of  country,  well  watered,  with  houses 
situated  here  and  there  amongst  the  rocks.  Joined  the 
main  road  at  a  Hacienda  belonging  to  the  Marquis  de 
San  Miquel;  good  gardens  and  fruit;  also  a  fine  stream. 


338  'Zebulon  M.  Pike 

The  mules  did  not  arrive  until  late  at  night,  when  it 
had  commenced  raining. 

''May  igth.  Did  not  march  until  three  o'clock,  the 
captain  not  being  very  well.  Here  he  determined  to 
take  the  main  road,  notwithstanding  the  orders  of 
General  Salcedo.  Came  on  lo  miles.  Met  a  deserter 
from  Captain  Johnston's  company.  He  returned,  came 
to  camp,  and  begged  me  to  take  him  back. to  his  com- 
pany; but  I  would  not  give  any  encouragement  to  the 
scoundrel — only  a  little  change,  as  he  was  without  a 
farthing. 

"May  20th.  Came  to  the  Hacienda  of  Pattos  by 
nine  o'clock.  This  is  a  handsome  place,  where  the 
Marquis  de  San  Miquel  frequently  spends  his  summers, 
the  distance  enabling  him  to  come  from  Mexico  in  his 
coach  in  10  days.  Here  we  met  the  Mexican  post-rider 
going  to  Chihuahua.  Don  Hymen,  who  had  left  us  at 
Paras,  joined  in  a  coach  and  six,  in  which  we  came  out 
to  a  little  settlement  called  the  Florida,  one  league 
from  Pattos  due  south.     Distance  i8  miles. 

"The  Hacienda  of  Pattos  was  a  square  inclosure  of 
about  300  feet,  the  building  being  one  story  high,  but 
some  of  the  apartments  were  elegantly  furnished.  In 
the  center  of  the  square  was  a  jet  d'eau,  which  cast  forth 
water  from  eight  spouts,  extended  from  a  colossean 
female  form.  From  this  fountain  all  the  neighboring 
inhabitants  got  their  supply  of  water.  The  marquis 
had  likewise  a  very  handsome  church,  which,  with  its 
ornaments,  cost  him  at  least  ^20,000;  to  officiate  in 
which^  he  maintained  a  little  stiff  superstitious  priest. 


Through  Old  Mexico  339 

In  the  rear  of  the  palace,  for  so  it  might  be  called,  was 
a  fish-pond  in  which  were  immense  numbers  of  fine 
fish.  The  population  of  Florida  is  about  2,000  souls. 
This  was  our  nearest  point  to  the  city  of  Mexico. 

''May  22d.  Marched  at  three  o'clock;  came  on  16 
miles  to  a  small  shed,  and  in  the  afternoon  to  la  Rancho, 
eight  miles  to  the  left  of  the  main  road,  near  the  foot 
of  the  mountain,  where  was  a  pond  of  water,  but  no 
houses.  Some  Spanish  soldiers  were  here.  We  left  Pat- 
tos  mountain  on  our  right  and  left,  but  here  was  a  cross 
mountain  over  which  we  were  to  pass  in  the  morning. 

"The  Marquis  maintains  1,500  soldiers  to  protect  his 
vassals  and  property  from  the  savages.  They  are  all 
cavalry,  as  well  dressed  and  armed  as  the  king's,  but  are 
treated  by  the  king's  troops  as  vastly  inferior. 

''Sunday,  May  2\th,  Marched  at  an  early  hour  and 
came  through  the  mountains,  where  there  was  scarcely 
any  road,  called  the  Mountain  of  the  Three  Rivers. 
At  the  13th  mile  joined  the  main  road,  which  we  had 
left  to  our  right  on  the  22nd  instant,  and  in  one  hour 
after  came  to  the  main  Mexican  road  from  the  eastern 
provinces;  thence  north-west  to  the  Rancho,  nine  miles 
from  Montelovez  whence  the  captain  sent  in  an  express 
to  give  notice  of  our  approach. 

"May  zyh.  In  the  afternoon  Lieutenant  Adams, 
commandant  of  the  company  of  Montelovez,  arrived  in 
a  coach  and  six  to  escort  us  to  town,  where  we  arrived 
about  five  o'clock.  In  the  evening  visited  Captain  de 
Ferara,  commandant  of  the  troops  of  Cogquilla,  and  in- 
spector of  the  five  provinces. 


340  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"Lieutenant  Adams,  who  commanded  this  place, 
was  the  son  of  an  Irish  engineer  in  the  service  of  Spain. 
He  had  married  a  rich  girl  of  the  Passo  del  Norte,  and 
they  lived  here  in  elegance  and  style,  for  the  country. 
We  put  up  at  his  quarters  and  were  very  hospitably  en- 
tertained. 

''May  26th,  Made  preparations  for  marching  the 
next  day.  I  arose  early,  before  any  of  our  people  were 
up,  and  walked  nearly  round  the  town;  and  from  the  hill 
took  a  small  survey,  with  my  pencil  and  a  pocket  com- 
pass which  I  always  carried  with  me.  Returned  and 
found  them  at  breakfast,  they  having  sent  three  or  four 
of  my  men  to  search  for  me.  The  Spanish  troops  at  this 
place  were  remarkably  polite,  always  fronting  and  salut- 
ing when  I  passed.  This  I  attributed  to  their  comman- 
dant, Lieutenant  Adams. 

''May  2jth.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  after  taking 
an  affectionate  leave  of  Don  Hymen,  and  at  half  past 
twelve  arrived  at  the  Hacienda  of  Don  Melcher,  situated 
on  the  same  stream  of  Montelovez. 

**Don  Melcher  was  a  man  of  very  large  fortune, 
polite,  generous,  and  friendly.  He  had  in  his  service  a 
man  who  had  deserted  from  Captain  Lockwood's  com- 
pany, first  regiment  of  infantry,  by  the  name  of  Pratt. 
From  this  man  he  had  acquired  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  crude  indigested  information  relative  to  the 
United  States,  and  when  he  met  with  us  his  thirst  after 
knowledge  of  our  laws  and  institutions  appeared  to  be 
insatiable.  He  caused  a  fine  large  sheep  to  be  killed 
and  presented  to  my  men. 


<  a 


O    8 

Si 


Through  Old  Mexico  341 

'^May  2Sth.  Marched  early  and  arrived  at  Encina 
Hacienda  at  ten  o'clock.  This  place  was  owned  by 
Don  Barego. 

"When  we  arrived  at  the  Hacienda  of  Encina,  I  found 
a  youth  of  18  sitting  in  the  house  quite  genteelly  dressed, 
whom  I  immediately  recognized  from  his  physiognomy 
to  be  an  American,  and  entered  into  conversation  with 
him.  He  expressed  great  satisfaction  at  meeting  a 
countryman,  and  we  had  a  great  deal  of  conversation. 
He  sat  at  a  table  with  us  and  partook  of  a  cold  collation 
of  fruits  and  confectionery;  but  I  was  much  surprised 
to  learn,  shortly  after  we  quit  the  table,  that  he  was  a 
deserter  from  our  army;  on  which  I  questioned  him,  and 
he  replied  that  his  name  was  Griffith;  he  had  enhsted 
in  Philadelphia,  arrived  at  New  Orleans,  and  deserted 
as  soon  as  possible;  the  Spaniards  had  treated  him 
much  better  than  his  own  countrymen,  and  he  should 
never  return.  I  was  extremely  astonished  at  his  inso- 
lence, and  mortified  that  I  should  have  been  betrayed 
into  any  polite  conduct  toward  the  scoundrel.  I  told 
him  that  it  was  astonishing  he  should  have  had  the  im- 
pertinence to  address  himself  to  me,  knowing  that  I  was 
an  American  officer.  He  muttered  something  about 
being  in  a  country  where  he  was  protected,  etc.;  on 
which  I  told  him  that  if  he  again  opened  his  mouth  to 
me,  I  would  instantly  chastise  him,  notwithstanding  his 
supposed  protection.  He  was  silent;  I  called  up  one  of 
my  soldiers  and  told  him  in  his  hearing,  that  if  he  at- 
tempted to  mix  with  them  to  turn  him  out  of  the  com- 
pany;  which  they  executed  by  leading  him  to  the  door 


342  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

of  their  room  a  short  time  after,  when  he  entered  it. 
When  dinner  was  nearly  ready,  I  sent  a  message  to  the 
proprietor,  that  we  assumed  we  had  no  right  to  say  whom 
he  should  introduce  at  table,  but  that  we  should  think 
it  a  great  indignity  offered  a  Spanish  officer  to  attempt 
to  set  him  down  at  the  same  board  with  a  deserter  from 
their  army;  and  that  if  the  man  who  was  at  the  table 
in  the  morning  were  to  make  his  appearance  again,  we 
should  decline  to  eat  at  it.  He  replied  that  it  was  an 
accident  which  had  produced  the  event  of  the  morning; 
that  he  was  sorry  our  feelings  had  been  injured,  and 
that  he  would  take  care  he  did  not  appear  again  while 
we  were  there. 

"  Our  good  friend  Don  Melcher  here  overtook  us,  and 
passed  the  evening  with  us. 

"This  day  we  passed  the  last  mountains,  and  again 
entered  the  great  Mississippi  valley,  it  being  six  months 
and  13  days  since  we  first  came  in  sight  of  them.  Dis- 
tance 20  miles." 

This  devious  journey  by  which  Pike  and  his  party 
were  brought  out  of  Mexico  led  him  southward  from 
Chihuahua,  cutting  through  the  northeast  corner  of  the 
province  of  Durango,  and  from  thence  northeast 
through  the  province  of  Coahuila,  crossing  the  Brazos 
River  and  afterward  the  Rio  Grande  at  Eagle  Pass, 
near  which  is  the  present  town  of  Ciudad  Porfirio 
Diaz. 


CHAPTER   IX 

THROUGH  TEXAS  TO  LOUISIANA 

June  ist— July  ist,  1807 

''Monday,  June  1st,  Arrived  at  the  Presidio  Rio 
Grande  at  eight  o'clock.  This  place  was  the  position 
to  which  our  friend  Barelo  had  been  ordered,  and  which 
had  been  very  highly  spoken  of  to  him;  but  he  found 
himself  miserably  mistaken,  for  it  was  with  the  greatest 
difficulty  we  obtained  anything  to  eat,  which  mortified 
him  extremely. 

"When  at  Chihuahua,  General  Salcedo  had  asked  me 
if  I  had  not  lost  a  man  by  desertion,  to  which  I  replied 
in  the  negative.  He  then  informed  me  that  an  Ameri- 
can had  arrived  at  the  Presidio  Rio  Grande  in  the  last 
year;  that  he  had  at  first  confined  him,  but  that  he  was 
now  released  and  practicing  physic;  and  that  he  wished 
me  to  examine  him  on  my  arrival.  I  therefore  had 
him  sent  for;  the  moment  he  entered  the  room  I  dis- 
covered he  never  had  received  a  liberal  education,  or 
had  been  accustomed  to  polished  society;  I  told  him 
the  reason  I  had  requested  to  see  him,  and  that  I  had 
it  in  my  power  to  serve  him  if  I  found  him  a  character 
worthy   of  interference. 

343 


344  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

"He  then  related  the  following  story;  that  his  name 
was  Martin  Henderson;  that  he  was  born  in  Rockbridge 
County,  State  of  Virginia;  that  he  had  been  brought  up 
a  farmer;  but,  that  coming  early  to  the  State  of  Ken- 
tucky and  to  Tennessee,  he  had  acquired  a  taste  of 
frontier  life,  and  that  in  the  spring  of  1806,  himself 
and  four  companions  had  left  the  Saline  in  the  district  of 
Saint  Genevieve,  Upper  Louisiana,  in  order  to  penetrate 
through  the  woods  to  the  province  of  Texas;  that  his 
companions  had  left  him  on  the  White  river,  and  that 
he  had  continued  on;  that  in  swimming  some  western 
branch  his  horse  sunk  under  him,  and  it  was  with  diffi- 
culty he  made  the  shore  with  his  gun.  Here  he  waited 
two  or  three  days  until  his  horse  rose,  and  he  then  got  his 
saddle-bags;  but  all  his  notes  on  the  country,  courses, 
etc.,  were  destroyed.  He  then  proceeded  on  foot  for  a 
few  days,  when  he  was  met  by  30  or  40  Osage  warriors, 
who,  on  his  telling  them  he  was  going  to  the  Spaniards, 
were  about  to  kill  him;  but  on  his  saying  he  would  go 
to  the  Americans,  they  held  a  consultation  over  him, 
and  finally  seized  on  his  clothes  and  divided  them  be- 
tween them;  then  his  pistols,  compass,  dirk,  and  watch, 
which  they  took  to  pieces  and  hung  in  their  noses  and 
ears;  then  they  stripped  him  naked,  and  round  his  body 
found  a  belt  with  gold  pieces  sewed  in  it;  this  they  also 
took,  and  finally  seized  on  his  gun  and  ammunition, 
and  were  marching  oflF  to  leave  him  in  that  situation; 
but  he  followed  them,  thinking  it  better  to  be  killed 
than  left  in  that  state  to  die  by  hunger  and  cold.  The 
savages  after  some  time  halted,  and  one  pulled  off  an 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  345 

old  pair  of  leggings  and  gave  him,  another  mockinsons, 
a  third  a  buffalo  robe,  and  the  one  who  had  carried  his 
heavy  rifle  had  by  this  time  become  tired  of  his  prize, 
they  never  using  rifles;  they  counted  him  out  25  charges 
of  powder  and  ball,  then  sent  two  Indians  with  him, 
who  put  him  on  a  war-trace,  which  they  said  led  to 
American  estabhshments;  and  as  soon  as  the  Indians 
left  him  he  directed  his  course  as  he  supposed  for  Saint 
Antonio.  He  then  killed  deer  and  made  himself  some 
clothes.  He  proceeded  on  and  expended  all  his  am- 
munition three  days  before  he  struck  the  Grand  Road, 
nearly  at  the  Rio  Grande.  He  further  added  that  he 
had  discovered  two  mines,  one  of  silver  and  the  other  of 
gold,  the  situation  of  which  he  particularly  described; 
but  that  the  general  had  taken  the  samples  from  him. 
That  he  would  not  attempt  to  pass  himself  on  us  for  a 
physician,  and  hoped,  as  he  only  used  simples  and  was 
careful  to  do  no  harm,  we  would  not  betray  him.  He 
further  added  that  since  his  being  in  the  country  he 
had  made,  from  information,  maps  of  all  the  adjacent 
country;  but  that  they  had  been  taken  from  him. 

"  I  had  early  concluded  that  he  was  an  agent  of  Burr's 
and  was  revolving  in  my  mind  whether  I  should  de- 
nounce him  as  such  to  the  commandant,  but  feeling  re- 
luctant from  an  apprehension  that  he  might  be  innocent, 
when  one  of  my  men  came  in  and  informed  me  that  the 
man  was  Trainer,  who  had  killed  Major  Bashier  in  the 
wilderness  between  Natchez  and  Tennessee,  when  he  was 
his  hireling.  He  shot  him  when  taking  a  nap  at  noon, 
through  the  head  with  his  own  pistols.     The  Governor 


346  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

of  the  State,  and  the  Major's  friends  offered  a  very  con- 
siderable reward  for  his  apprehension,  which  obhged 
him  to  quit  the  State;  and  with  an  Amazonian  woman, 
who  handled  arms  and  hunted  Hke  a  savage,  he  retreated 
to  the  source  of  the  White  river;  but,  being  routed  from 
that  retreat  by  Captain  Maney,  of  the  United  States 
army  and  a  party  of  Cherokees,  he  and  his  female  com- 
panion bore  west;  she,  proving  to  be  pregnant  was  left 
by  him  on  the  desert,  and  I  was  informed  arrived  at  the 
settlements  on  the  Red  river,  but  by  what  means  is  to 
me  unknown.  The  articles  and  money  taken  from  him 
by  the  Osages  were  the  property  of  the  deceased  major. 
I  then  reported  the  circumstances  to  Captain  Barelo, 
who  had  him  immediately  confined,  until  the  will  of 
Governor  Cordero  should  be  known,  who  informed 
me,  when  at  San  Antonio  that  he  would  have  him  sent 
to  some  place  of  perpetual  confinement  in  the  interior. 
Thus  vengeance  has  overtaken  the  ingrate  and  mur- 
derer, when  he  least  expected  it. 

"In  the  evening  we  went  to  see  some  performers  on 
the  slack-rope,  who  were  in  no  way  extraordinary  in 
their  performances,  except  in  language  which  would 
bring  a  blush  on  the  cheek  of  the  most  abandoned  of 
the  female  sex  in  the  United  States. 

"June  2nd.  In  the  day  time  were  endeavoring  to 
regulate  our  watches  by  the  compass,  and  in  an  instant 
that  my  back  was  turned  some  person  stole  it.  I  could 
by  no  means  recover  it,  and  I  had  strong  suspicions  that 
the  theft  was  approved,  as  the  instrument  had  occa- 
sioned great  dissatisfaction. 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  347 

"This  day  the  captain  went  out  to  dine  with  some 
monks,  who  would  have  thought  it  profanation  to  have 
had  us  as  their  guests,  notwithstanding  the  priest  of  the 
place  had  escorted  us  round  the  town  and  to  all  the 
missions;  we  found  him  a  very  communicative,  hberal, 
and  intelligent  man.  We  saw  no  resource  for  a  dinner 
but  in  the  inventive  genius  of  a  little  Frenchman  who 
had  accompanied  us  from  Chihuahua,  where  he  had 
been  officiating  one  year  as  cook  to  the  general,  of 
whom  he  gave  us  many  interesting  anecdotes,  and  in 
fact  was  of  infinite  service  to  us;  we  supported  him  and 
he  served  as  cook,  interpreter,  etc.  It  was  astonishing 
with  what  zeal  he  strove  to  acquire  news  and  informa- 
tion for  us;  and  as  he  had  been  four  times  through  the 
provinces,  he  had  acquired  considerable  knowledge  of 
the  country,  people,  etc.  He  went  off  and  in  a  very 
short  time  returned  with  table-cloth,  plates,  a  dinner  of 
three  or  four  courses,  a  bottle  of  wine,  and  a  pretty  girl 
to  attend  on  the  table.  We  inquired  by  what  magic  he 
had  brought  this  about,  and  found  that  he  had  been 
to  one  of  the  officers  and  notified  him  that  it  was  the 
wish  of  the  commandant  that  he  should  supply  the  two 
Americans  with  a  decent  dinner,  which  was  done;  but 
we  took  care  to  compensate  them  for  their  trouble. 
This  we  explained  to  Barelo  in  the  evening,  and  he 
laughed  heartily. 

"We  parted  from  the  captain  with  regrets  and  as- 
surances of  remembrance.     Departed  at  five  o'clock, 

escorted  by  Ensign and  men;   came  on 

to  the  Rio  Grande,  which  we  passed,  and  encamped 


348  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

at  a  Rancho  on  the  other  side.  Distance  seven 
miles. 

'^  June  3^.  The  mosquitoes,  which  had  commenced 
the  first  night  on  this  side  of  Montelovez,  now  became 
very  troublesome.  This  day  saw  the  first  horse-flies; 
saw  some  wild  horses;  came  on  in  the  open  plain,  and 
in  a  dry  time,  when  there  was  no  water.  Distance  30 
miles. 

^^  June  ^th.  After  losing  two  horses  in  passing  the 
river,  the  water  having  fallen  so  that  we  forded,  we 
crossed  and  continued  our  route.  Passed  two  herds  o£ 
wild  horses,  which  left  the  road  for  us.  Halted  at  a 
pond  on  the  left  of  the  road,  15  miles,  where  we  saw 
the  first  oak  since  we  left  New  Mexico,  and  this  was 
scrub  oak.  Passed  many  deer  yesterday  and  to-day. 
Came  on  to  a  small  creek  at  night,  where  we  met  a 
party  of  the  company  of  Saint  Fernandez  returning 
from  the  hne.     Distance  31  miles. 

"June  6th.  Marched  early  and  met  several  parties 
of  troops  returning  from  Texas  where  they  had  been 
sent  to  re-enforce,  when  our  troops  were  near  the  line. 
Immense  number  of  cross-roads  made  by  the  wild 
horses.  Killed  a  wild  hog,  which  on  examination  I 
found  to  be  very  different  from  the  tame  breed,  smaller, 
browner,  with  long  hair  and  short  legs;  they  are  to  be 
found  in  all  parts  between  Red  river  and  the  Spanish 
settlements. 

"Passed  an  encampment  made  by  the  Lee  Panes, 
met  one  of  said  nation  with  his  wife.  In  the  afternoon 
struck  the  woodland,  which  was  the  first  we  had  been 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  349 

in  from  the  time  we  left  the  Osage  nation.  Distance 
13  miles." 

By  the  Lee  Panes  is  to  be  understood  the  Lipans,  a 
branch  of  the  Apaches,  and  speaking  the  same  language. 
The  party  has  been  following  the  old  Spanish  trail 
crossing  the  Nueces  River,  which  Pike  spells  "Nois- 
seur"  and  the  Medino — the  later  name  for  "Mariano" 
— and  is  now  about  to  enter  San  Antonio.  This  town 
had  been  an  ecclesiastical  and  mihtary  center  for  the 
Spaniards  since  1720.  It  has  always  retained  its  mili- 
tary distinction;  and  since  the  massacre  of  Texans  by 
the  Mexicans  at  the  Alamo  in  1836  is  regarded  as  the 
Thermopylae  of  Texas. 

*'  Sunday,  June  ']th.  Came  on  15  miles  to  the  river 
Mariano — the  line  between  Texas  and  Cogquilla — a 
pretty  little  stream,  Rancho.  Thence  in  the  afternoon 
to  Saint  Antonio.  We  halted  at  the  mission  of  Saint 
Joseph;  received  in  a  friendly  manner  by  the  priest  of 
the  mission  and  others. 

"We  were  met  out  of  Saint  Antonio  about  three  miles 
by  Governors  Cordero  and  Herrara,  in  a  coach.  We  re- 
paired to  their  quarters,  where  we  were  received  like 
their  children.  Cordero  informed  me  that  he  had  dis- 
cretionary orders  as  to  the  mode  of  my  going  out  of 
the  country;  that  he  therefore  wished  me  to  choose  my 
time,  mode,  etc.;  that  any  sum  of  money  I  might  want 
was  at  my  service;  that  in  the  meantime  Robinson  and 
myself  would  make  his  quarters  our  home;  and  that  he 
had  caused  to  be  vacated  and  prepared  a  house  imme- 
diately opposite  for  the  reception  of  my  men.     In  the 


350  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

evening  his  levee  was  attended  by  a  crowd  of  officers 
and  priests,  among  whom  were  Father  M'Guire  and 
Dr.  Zerbin.  After  supper  we  went  to  the  public  square, 
where  might  be  seen  the  two  governors  joined  in  a 
dance  with  people  who  in  the  daytime  would  approach 
them  with  reverence  and  awe. 

"We  were  here  introduced  to  the  sister  of  Lieutenant 
Malgares'  wife,  who  was  one  of  the  finest  women  we 
saw.  She  was  married  to  a  Captain  Ugarte,  to  whom 
we  had  letters  of  introduction. 

'^  June  gth.  A  large  party  dined  at  Governor  Cor- 
dero's  who  gave  as  his  toast,  *The  President  of  the 
United  States — ^Vive  la.'  I  returned  the  compliment 
by  toasting  'His  Catholic  Majesty.'  These  toasts  were 
followed  by  'General  Wilkinson.'  One  of  the  com- 
pany then  gave  'These  gentlemen;  their  safe  and 
happy  arrival  in  their  own  country;  their  honorable  re- 
ception, and  the  continuation  of  the  good  understand- 
ing which  exists  between  the  two  countries.' 

''June  loth,  A  large  party  at  the  governor's  to  din- 
ner.    He  gave  as  a  toast,  'My  companion,  Herrara.' 

''June  nth.  Preparing  to  march  to-morrow.  We 
this  evening  had  a  conversation  with  the  two  governors, 
wherein  they  exhibited  an  astonishing  knowledge  of  the 
political  character  of  our  Executive,  and  the  local  in- 
terests of  the  different  parts  of  the  Union. 

"June  I2th,  One  of  the  captains  from  the  kingdom 
of  Leon  having  died,  we  were  invited  to  attend  the 
burial,  and  accompanied  the  two  governors  in  their 
coach,  where  we  had  an  opportunity  of  viewing  the 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  351 

solemnity  of  the  interment,  agreeably  to  the  ritual  of 
the  Spanish  church,  attended  by  the  military  honors 
which  were  conferred  on  the  deceased  by  his  late  breth- 
ren in  arms. 

"[As  I  ascertained  to-day,]  Governor  Cordero  gave 
the  information  of  my  intended  expedition  to  the  com- 
mandant-general as  early  as  July,  the  same  month  that 
I  took  my  departure.  His  information  was  received 
via  Natchez. 

^'  June  lyh.  This  morning  there  were  marched  200 
dragoons  for  the  sea-coast,  to  look  out  for  the  English, 
and  this  evening  Colonel  Cordero  was  to  have  marched 
to  join  them.  We  marched  at  seven  o'clock,  Governor 
Cordero  taking  us  in  his  coach  about  two  leagues,  ac- 
companied by  Father  M'Guire,  Dr.  Zerbin,  etc.  We 
took  a  friendly  adieu  of  Governor  Herrara  and  our 
other  friends  at  Saint  Aiitonio. 

"  It  may  not  be  improper  to  mention  here  something 
of  Father  M'Guire  and  Dr.  Zerbin,  who  certainly  treated 
us  with  all  imaginable  attention  while  at  Saint  Antonio. 
The  former  was  an  Irish  priest,  who  formerly  resided 
on  the  coast  above  Orleans,  and  was  noted  for  his  hos- 
pitable and  social  quahties.  On  the  cession  of  Louis- 
iana, he  followed  the  standard  of 'the  king,  his  master 
who  never  suffers  an  old  servant  to  be  neglected.'  He 
received  at  Cuba  an  establishment  as  chaplain  to  the 
mint  of  Mexico,  whence  the  instability  of  human  affairs 
took  him  to  Saint  Antonio.  He  was  a  man  of  chaste, 
classical  taste,  observation,  and  research. 

"Don  Zerbin  formerly  resided  at  Natchez,  but  in 


352  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

consequence  of  pecuniary  embarrassments  emigrated  to 
the  Spanish  territories.  Being  a  young  man  of  a  hand- 
some person  and  an  insinuating  address,  he  had  ob- 
tained the  good-will  of  Governor  Cordero,  who  had  con- 
ferred on  him  an  appointment  in  the  king's  hospital, 
and  many  other  advantages  by  which  he  might  have 
made  a  fortune;  but  he  had  recently  committed  some 
very  great  indiscretions,  by  which  he  had  nearly  lost  the 
favor  of  Governor  Cordero,  though  whilst  we  were  there 
he  was  treated  with  attention. 

"  I  will  attempt  here  to  portray  a  faint  resemblance  of 
the  characters  of  the  two  governors,  whom  we  found  at 
Saint  Antonio;  but  to  whose  superexcellent  qualities 
it  would  require  a  master  pen  to  do  justice. 

"Don  Antonio  Cordero  is  about  5  feet  10  inches  in 
height,  50  years  of  age,  with  fair  complexion  and  blue 
eyes;  he  wore  his  hair  turned  back  and  in  every  part 
of  his  deportment  was  legibly  written  'the  soldier.'  He 
yet  possessed  an  excellent  constitution,  and  a  body 
which  appeared  to  be  neither  impaired  by  the  fatigues 
of  the  various  campaigns  he  had  made,  nor  disfigured 
by  the  numerous  wounds  received  from  the  enemies 
of  the  king.  He  was  one  of  the  select  officers  who  had 
been  chosen  by  the  court  of  Madrid  to  be  sent  to  America 
about  35  years  since,  to  discipline  and  organize  the 
Spanish  provincials,  and  had  been  employed  in  all 
the  various  provinces  and  kingdoms  of  New  Spain. 
Through  the  parts  we  explored  he  was  universally  be- 
loved and  respected;  and  when  I  pronounce  him  by 
far  the  most  popular  man  in  the  internal  provinces,  I 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  353 

risk  nothing  by  the  assertion.  He  spoke  the  Latin  and 
French  languages  well,  was  generous,  brave,  and  sin- 
cerely attached  to  his  king  and  country.  Those  numer- 
ous quahfications  advanced  him  to  the  rank  of  colonel 
of  cavalry,  and  governor  of  the  provinces  of  Cogquilla 
and  Texas.  His  usual  residence  was  Montlovez,  which 
he  had  embellished  a  great  deal,  but  since  our  taking 
possession  of  Louisiana  he  had  removed  to  Saint 
Antonio,  in  order  to  be  nearer  the  frontier,  to  be  able 
to  apply  the  remedy  to  any  evil  which  might  arise  from 
the  collision  of  our  Hues. 

"Don  Simon  de  Herrara  is  about  5  feet  11  inches 
high,  has  a  sparkling  black  eye,  dark  complexion  and 
hair.  He  was  born  in  the  Canary  Islands,  served  in 
the  infantry  in  France,  Spain  and  Flanders,  and  speaks 
the  French  language  well,  with  a  little  of  the  English. 
He  is  engaging  in  conversation  with  his  equals;  polite 
and  obliging  to  his  inferiors,  and  in  all  his  actions 
one  of  the  most  gallant  and  accomplished  men  I  ever 
knew.  He  possesses  a  great  knowledge  of  mankind, 
from  his  experience  in  various  countries  and  societies, 
and  knows  how  to  employ  the  genius  of  each  of  his 
subordinates  to  advantage.  He  had  been  in  the  United 
States  during  the  presidency  of  General  Washington, 
and  had  been  introduced  to  that  hero,  of  whom  he 
spoke  in  terms  of  exalted  veneration.  He  is  now  Heu- 
ten ant-colonel  of  infantry,  and  governor  of  the  king- 
dom of  New  Leon.  His  seat  of  government  is  Mont 
Elrey;  and  probably,  if  ever  a  chief  is  adored  by  his 
people,  it  is  Herrara.     When  his  time  expired  last,  he 


354  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

immediately  repaired  to  Mexico,  attended  by  300  of  the 
most  respectable  people  of  his  government,  who  carried 
with  them  the  sighs,  tears,  and  prayers  of  thousands 
that  he  might  be  continued  in  that  government.  The 
viceroy  thought  proper  to  accord  to  their  wishes  pro 
tempore,  and  the  king  has  since  confirmed  his  nomina- 
tion. When  I  saw  him  he  had  been  about  one  year 
absent,  during  which  time  the  citizens  of  rank  in  Mont 
EIrey  had  not  suffered  a  marriage  or  baptism  to  take 
place  in  any  of  their  families,  until  their  common 
father  could  be  there,  to  consent  and  give  joy  to  the 
occasion  by  his  presence.  What  greater  proof  could 
be  given  of  their  esteem  and  love  .? 

"In  drawing  a  parallel  between  these  two  friends,  I 
should  say  that  Cordero  was  the  man  of  greatest  read- 
ing, and  that  Herrara  possessed  the  greatest  knowledge 
of  the  world.  Cordero  has  lived  all  his  life  as  a  bache- 
lor. Herrara  married  an  English  lady  in  early  youth, 
at  Cadiz;  one  who  by  her  suavity  of  manners  makes 
herself  as  much  beloved  and  esteemed  by  the  ladies 
as  her  noble  husband  is  by  the  men.  By  her  he  has 
several  children,  one  now  in  the  service  of  his  royal 
master. 

"The  two  friends  agree  perfectly  in  one  point — their 
hatred  to  tyranny  of  every  kind;  and  in  a  secret  determi- 
nation never  to  see  that  flourishing  part  of  the  New 
World  subject  to  any  European  lord  except  him  whom 
they  think  their  honor  and  loyalty  bound  to  defend 
with  their  lives  and  fortunes.  But  should  Bonaparte 
seize  on  European  Spain,  I  risk  nothing  in  asserting  that 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  355 

those  two  would  be  the  first  to  assert  the  independence 
of  their  country. 

"  Before  I  close  this  subject  it  may  not  be  improper  to 
relate  that  we  owe  it  to  Governor  Herrara's  prudence 
that  we  are  not  now  engaging  in  a  war  with  Spain. 
This  will  be  explained  by  the  following  anecdote,  which 
he  related  in  the  presence  of  his  friend  Cordero,  and 
which  was  confirmed  by  him.  When  the  difficulties 
commenced  on  the  Sabine,  the  commandant-general 
and  the  viceroy  consulted  together  and  mutually  deter- 
mined to  maintain  inviolate  what  they  deemed  the 
dominions  of  their  master.  The  viceroy  therefore  or- 
dered Herrara  to  join  Cordero  with  1,300  men,  and 
both  the  viceroy  and  General  Salcedo  ordered  Cor- 
dero to  cause  our  troops  to  be  attacked  should  they 
pass  the  river  Oude.  These  orders  were  positively  re- 
iterated to  Herrara,  the  actual  commanding  officer  of 
the  Spanish  army  on  the  frontiers,  and  gave  rise  to  many 
messages  which  he  sent  to  General  Wilkinson  when  he 
was  advancing  with  our  troops.  Finding  they  were  not 
attended  to,  he  called  a  council  of  war  on  the  question  to 
attack  or  not,  when  it  was  given  as  their  opinion  that 
they  should  immediately  commence  a  predatory  war- 
fare, but  avoid  a  general  engagement;  yet,  notwith- 
standing the  orders  of  the  viceroy,  the  commandant- 
general.  Governor  Cordero's,  and  the  opinion  of  his 
officers,  he  had  the  firmness  or  temerity  to  enter  into 
the  agreement  with  General  Wilkinson  which  at  present 
exists  relative  to  our  boundaries  on  that  frontier.  On 
his  return  he  was  received  with  coolness  by  Cordero, 


356  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

and  they  both  made  their  communications  to  their 
superiors.  'Until  an  answer  was  received,'  said  Her- 
rara,  *I  experienced  the  most  unhappy  period  of  my 
Hfe,  conscious  I  had  served  my  country  faithfully,  at  the 
same  time  that  I  had  violated  every  principle  of  mili- 
tary duty/  At  length  the  answer  arrived,  and  what 
was  it,  but  the  thanks  of  the  viceroy  and  the  command- 
ant-general for  having  pointedly  disobeyed  their  orders, 
with  assurances  that  they  would  represent  his  services 
in  exalted  terms  to  the  king.  What  could  have  pro- 
duced this  change  of  sentiment  is  to  me  unknown, 
but  the  letter  was  published  to  the  army,  and  confi- 
dence again  restored  between  the  two  chiefs  and  the 
troops. 

"The  appearance  of  the  Spanish  troops  is  certainly, 
at  a  distance,  a  la  militaire.  Their  lances  are  fixed  to 
the  side  of  the  saddle  under  the  left  thigh  and  slant 
about  five  feet  above  the  horse.  On  the  right  the  cara- 
bine is  slung  in  a  case  to  the  front  of  the  saddle,  or  pom- 
mel, crosswise,  the  breech  to  the  right  hand;  and  on 
each  side  of  the  saddle,  behind  the  rider,  is  a  pistol; 
below  the  breech  of  the  carabine  is  slung  the  shield, 
which  is  made  of  sole  leather  three  doubled,  sewed  to- 
gether with  thongs,  with  a  band  on  the  inside  to  slip  the 
left  arm  through;  those  of  the  privates  are  round,  and 
are  about  two  feet  in  diameter.  The  officers  and  non- 
commissioned officers  have  their  shields  oval,  bending 
on  both  sides,  in  order  to  permit  the  arrow  to  glance, 
and  they  have  in  general  the  arms  of  Spain  with  Don 
Carlos  IV.  gilt  on  the  outside,  with  various  other  de- 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  357 

vices,  which  add  much  to  the  elegance  of  their  appear- 
ance on  horseback,  but  are  only  calculated  to  be  of 
service  against  savages  who  have  no  fire-arms.  The 
dragoons  of  the  viceroyalty  do  not  make  use  of  the 
lance  or  shield,  but  are  armed,  equipped,  and  clothed 
after  the  modern  manner,  as  are  also  the  dragoons  of 
the  eastern  provinces.  When  they  recently  expected  to 
be  opposed  to  the  American  troops  they  were  deprived 
of  the  lance  and  shield,  and  received  the  straight  cut- 
lass in  their  stead. 

"Their  dress  is  a  short  blue  coat,  with  red  cape  and 
cuffs,  without  facings,  leather  or  blue  cotton  velvet  small- 
clothes and  waistcoat,  the  small-clothes  always  open  at 
the  knees,  the  wrapping-boot  with  the  jack-boot  and 
permanent  spur  over  it,  a  broad-brimmed,  high-crowned 
wool  hat,  with  a  ribbon  round  it  of  various  colors,  gen- 
erally received  as  a  present  from  some  female,  which 
they  wear  as  a  badge  of  the  favor  of  the  fair  sex  and  a 
mark  of  their  gallantry. 

"Their  horses  are  small  and  slender-limbed,  ,but 
very  active  and  capable  of  enduring  great  fatigue.  The 
equipments  of  the  horses  are,  to  our  idea,  awkward; 
but  I  believe  them  superior  to  the  English,  and  they 
have  the  advantage  over  us  in  the  skill  of  the  rider,  as 
well  as  in  the  quality  of  the  beast.  Their  bridles  have 
a  strong  curb,  which  gives  so  great  a  mechanical  force 
to  the  bridle  that  I  believe  it  almost  practicable  with  it 
to  break  the  jaw  of  the  beast.  The  saddle  is  made  after 
the  Persian  mode,  with  a  high  projecting  pommel  or, 
as  anciently  termed,  bow,  and  is  likewise  raised  behind. 


358  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

This  is  merely  the  tree;  it  is  then  covered  by  two  or  three 
covers  of  carved  leather  and  embroidered  workmanship, 
some  with  gold  and  silver  in  a  very  superb  manner. 
The  stirrups  are  of  wood  closed  in  front,  carved  generally 
into  the  figure  of  a  lion's  head,  or  that  of  some  other 
beast;  they  are  very  heavy,  and  to  us  present  a  very 
clumsy  appearance.  The  horseman,  seated  on  his 
horse,  has  a  small  bag  tied  behind  him,  his  blankets 
either  under  him^  or  lying  with  his  cloak  between  his 
body  and  the  bow,  which  makes  him  at  his  ease. 
Thus  mounted,  it  is  impossible  for  the  most  vicious 
horse  ever  to  dismount  them.  They  will  catch  another 
horse  with  a  noose  and  hair  rope,  when  both  are  run- 
ning nearly  at  full  speed,  with  which  they  soon  choke 
down  the  beast  of  which  they  are  in  pursuit;  in  short, 
they  are  probably  the  most  expert  horsemen  in  the 
world. 

"They  relieve  their  guards  at  night;  as  soon  as  they 
halt  the  new  guard  is  formed  on  foot  with  their  carabines, 
and  then  marched  before  the  commandant's  tent,  where 
the  commanding  officer  of  the  guard  invokes  the  holy 
virgin  three  times;  the  commanding  officer  replies,  *It  is 
well.'  They  then  retire  and  mount  their  horses,  and  are 
told  off,  some  to  act  as  guard  of  the  horses,  as  cavalry, 
others  as  guard  of  the  camp,  as  infantry.  The  old 
guards  are  then  paraded  and  relieved,  and  the  new  senti- 
nels take  post.  Their  sentinels  are  singing  half  the  time, 
and  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  them  to  quit  their  post 
to  come  to  the  fire,  go  for  water,  etc. — in  fact,  after  the 
officer  is  in  bed,  frequently  the  whole  guard  comes  in; 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  359 

yet  I  never  knew  any  man  punished  for  these  breaches 
of  military  duty.  Their  mode  of  attack  is  by  squadrons, 
on  the  different  flanks  of  their  enemies,  but  without 
regularity  or  concert,  shouting,  hallooing,  and  firing  their 
carabines;  after  which,  if  they  think  themselves  equal 
to  the  enemy,  they  charge  with  a  pistol  and  then  a  lance. 
From  my  observation  on  their  discipline  I  have  no  hesi- 
tation in  declaring  that  I  would  not  be  afraid  to  march 
over  a  plain  with  500  infantry  and  a  proportionate  al- 
lowance of  horse  artillery  of  the  United  States  army, 
in  the  presence  of  5,000  of  these  dragoons.  Yet  I  do 
not  presume  to  say  that  an  army  with  that  inferiority  of 
numbers  would  do  to  oppose  them,  for  they  would  cut 
off  your  suppHes,  and  harass  your  march  and  camp, 
night  and  day,  to  such  a  degree  as  to  oblige  you  in  the 
end  to  surrender  to  them  without  ever  having  come  to 
action.  If,  however,  the  event  depended  on  one  single 
engagement,  it  would  eventuate  with  glory  to  the  Ameri- 
can arms.  The  conclusion  must  not  be  drawn  that  I 
consider  they  are  more  deficient  in  physical  firmness 
than  other  nations,  for  we  see  the  savages,  500  of  whom 
on  a  plain  fly  before  50  bayonets,  on  other  occasions 
brave  danger  and  death  in  its  most  horrid  shapes,  with 
an  undaunted  fortitude  never  surpassed  by  the  most 
disciplined  and  hardy  veterans.  It  arises  solely  from 
the  want  of  discipline  and  confidence  in  each  other,  as 
is  always  the  case  with  undiscipHned  corps,  unless  stim- 
ulated by  the  godlike  sentiment  of  love  of  country,  of 
which  these  poor  fellows  know  so  little.  The  travelling 
food  of  the  dragoons  of  New  Mexico  consists  of  a  very 


360  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

excellent  species  of  wheat  biscuit,  and  shaved  meat  well 
dried,  with  a  vast  quantity  of  red  pepper,  of  which  they 
make  bouilli  and  then  pour  it  on  their  broken  biscuit, 
when  the  latter  becomes  soft  and  excellent  eating. 
Farther  south  they  use  large  quantities  of  parched  corn 
meal  and  sugar,  as  practised  by  our  hunters,  each 
dragoon  having  a  small  bag.  In  short  they  live  when 
on  command,  on  an  allowance  which  our  troops  would 
consider  little  better  than  starving,  never,  except  at 
night,  attempting  to  eat  anything  like  a  meal,  but  biting 
at  a  piece  of  biscuit,  or  drinking  some  parched  meal  with 
sugar  and  water,  during  the  day. 

''Sunday,  June  i^h.  When  we  left  Saint  Antonio, 
everything  appeared  to  be  in  a  flourishing  and  improv- 
ing state,  owing  to  the  examples  given  to  industry, 
politeness,  and  civilization  by  the  excellent  Governor 
Cordero  and  his  colleague  Herrara;  also  to  the  large 
body  of  troops  maintained  at  that  place  in  consequence 
of  the  difference  existing  between  the  United  States  and 
Spain. 

"Came  on  to  the  Saint  Marks  in  the  morning;  in 
the  afternoon  came  on  115  miles  further,  but  was  late, 
owing  to  our  having  taken  the  wrong  road.  Dis- 
tance 30  miles. 

"June  i6th.  Marched  early,  and  at  eight  o'clock  ar- 
rived at  Red  river.  Here  was  a  small  Spanish  station 
and  several  lodges  of  Tancards — tall,  handsome  men, 
but  the  most  naked  savages  I  ever  saw,  without  excep- 
tion. They  complained  much  of  their  situation.  In 
the  afternoon  passed  over  hilly,  stony  land;    occasion- 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  361 

ally  we  saw  pine  timber.  Killed  one  deer.  Encamped 
on  a  small  run.     Distance  26  miles. 

'^  June  ijth.  Came  on  by  nine  o'clock  to  a  large  en- 
campment of  Tancards,  more  than  40  lodges.  Their 
property  was  as  remarkable  as  their  independence. 
Immense  herds  of  horses,  etc.  I  gave  a  Camanche  and 
Tancard  each  a  silk  handkerchief,  and  a  recommenda- 
tion to  the  commandant  at  Natchitoches.  In  the  after- 
noon came  on  three  hours  and  encamped  on  a  hill,  at  a 
creek  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  road.  Met  a  large 
herd  of  mules  escorted  by  four  soldiers;  the  lieutenant 
took  from  them  some  money  which  they  had  in  charge. 
Distance  30  miles." 

Of  this  tribe  Pike  subsequently  writes: 

"The  Tancards  are  a  nation  of  Indians  who  rove  on 
the  banks  of  Red  river,  and  are  600  men  strong.  They 
follow  the  buffalo  and  wild  horses,  and  carry  on  a  trade 
with  the  Spaniards.  They  are  armed  with  the  bow,  ar- 
row, and  lance.  They  are  erratic  and  confined  to  no 
particular  district;  are  a  tall,  handsome  people;  in  con- 
versation they  have  a  pecuHar  clucking,  express  more 
by  signs  than  any  savages  I  ever  visited,  and  in  fact 
language  appears  to  have  made  less  progress.  They 
complained  much  of  their  situation  and  the  treatment 
of  the  Spaniards;  are  extremely  poor,  and,  except  the 
Apaches,  were  the  most  independent  Indians  we  en- 
countered in  the  Spanish  territories.  They  possess 
large  droves  of  horses." 

Concerning  these  wild  horses,  which  it  will  be  remem- 
bered were  the  causes  of  the  unhappy  fate  of  Captain 


362  Zebulon  M.  Pike 


Philip  Nolan  and  his  men,  Pike  informs  his  govern- 
ment: "They  are  in  such  numbers  as  to  afford  supplies 
for  all  the  savages  who  border  on  the  province,  the  Span- 
iards, and  vast  droves  for  the  other  provinces.  They 
are  also  sent  into  the  United  States,  notwithstanding 
the  trade  is  contraband.  They  go  in  such  large  gangs 
that  it  is  requisite  to  keep  an  advanced  guard  of  horse- 
men in  order  to  frighten  them  away;  for  should  they  be 
suffered  to  come  near  the  horses  and  mules  which  you 
drive  with  you,  by  their  snorting,  neighing,  etc.,  they 
would  alarm  them,  and  frequently  the  domestic  animals 
would  join  them  and  go  off,  notwithstanding  all  the  ex- 
ertions of  the  dragoons  to  prevent  them.  A  gentleman 
told  me  he  saw  700  beasts  carried  off  at  one  time,  not 
one  of  which  was  ever  recovered.  They  also  in  the 
night  frequently  carry  off  the  droves  of  travelers'  horses, 
and  even  come  within  a  few  miles  of  St.  Antonio,  and 
take  off  the  horses  in  that  vicinity. 

"The  method  pursued  by  the  Spanish  in  taking  them 
is  as  follows :  They  take  a  few  fleet  horses  and  proceed 
into  the  country  where  the  wild  horses  are  numerous. 
They  then  build  a  large  stone  inclosure,  with  a  door 
which  enters  a  smaller  inclosure;  from  the  entrance  of 
the  large  pen  they  project  wings  out  into  the  prairie  a 
great  distance,  and  then  set  up  bushes,  etc.,  to  induce 
the  horses,  when  pursued,  to  enter  into  these  wings. 
After  these  preparations  are  made  they  keep  a  look- 
out for  a  small  drove,  for,  if  they  unfortunately  should 
start  too  large  a  one,  they  either  burst  open  the  pen  or 
fill  it  up  with  dead  bodies,  and  the  others  run  over  them 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  363 

and  escape;  in  which  case  the  party  are  obliged  to  leave 
the  place,  as  the  stench  arising  from  the  putrid  carcasses 
would  be  insupportable;  and,  in  addition  to  this,  the 
pen  would  not  receive  others.  Should  they,  however, 
succeed  in  driving  in  a  few,  say  two  or  three  hundred, 
they  select  the  handsomest  and  youngest,  noose  them, 
take  them  into  the  small  inclosure,  and  then  turn  out  the 
remainder;  after  which,  by  starving,  preventing  them 
taking  any  repose,  and  continually  keeping  them  in 
motion,  they  make  them  gentle  by  degrees,  and  finally 
break  them  to  submit  to  the  saddle  and  bridle.  For 
this  business  I  presume  there  is  no  nation  in  the  world 
superior  to  the  Spaniards  of  Texas. 

*'  June  iSih.  Rode  on  until  half  past  ten  o'clock, 
when  we  arrived  at  the  river  Brasses.  Here  is  a  stock- 
ade guard  of  one  corporal,  six  men  and  a  ferry  boat. 
Swam  our  horses  over;  one  was  drowned,  and  several 
others  were  near  it,  owing  to  their  striking  each  other 
with  their  feet.  We  then  came  on  about  two  miles  on 
this  side  of  a  bayou  called  the  little  Brasses,  which  is 
only  a  branch  of  the  other,  and  which  makes  an  im- 
passable swamp  at  certain  seasons  between  them.  Dis- 
tance 13  miles. 

"June  igth.  Came  on  through  woods  and  prairies 
alternating  20  miles  to  a  small  creek,  Corpus  Christi, 
with  well- wooded,  rich  land.  In  the  afternoon  passed 
a  creek  which  at  high  water  is  nearly  impassable  four 
miles.  Overflows,  swamps,  ponds,  etc.  Encamped 
about  one  mile  on  this  side,  on  high  land  to  the  right 
of  the  road.  Met  the  mail,  Indians  and  others.  Dis- 
tance 30  miles. 


364  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

'^Sunday,  June  2ist.  Came  on  to  the  river  Trinity 
by  eight  o'clock.  Here  were  stationed  two  captains, 
two  lieutenants,  and  three  ensigns,  with  nearly  100  men, 
all  sick,  one  scarcely  able  to  assist  another.  Met  a 
number  of  runaway  negroes,  some  French,  and  Irish- 
men. Received  information  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson's 
safe  arrival.  Crossed  with  all  our  horses  and  baggage, 
with  much  difficulty.     Distance  20  miles. 

''June  24/ /z.  The  horses  came  up  this  morning; 
lost  six  over  night.  We  marched  early  and  in  15  miles 
came  up  to  the  river  Angeline,  about  the  width  of  the 
Natchez,  running  N.  and  S.,  good  land  on  its  borders. 
Two  miles  further  was  a  settlement  of  Barr  and  Daven- 
ports, where  were  three  of  our  lost  horses;  one  mile 
further  found  two  more  of  our  horses,  where  we  halted 
for  dinner.  Marched  at  four  o'clock,  and  at  half  past 
eight  arrived  at  Nacogdoches,  where  we  were  politely 
received  by  the  adjutant  and  inspector.  Captain  Her- 
rara,  Mr.  Davenport,  etc.  This  part  of  the  country  is 
well  watered,  but  sandy;  pine,  scrub  oak,  etc.  Dis- 
tance 27  miles." 

'^  June  2^th.  Spent  in  reading  a  gazette  from  the 
United  States,  etc.  A  large  party  at  the  adjutant  and 
inspector's  to  dinner:  ist  toast,  *  The  President  of  the 
United  States,  etc/;  2d,  *The  King  of  Spain'  ;  3d, 
'Governors  Herrara  and  Cordero.' 

''June  zjth.  Marched  after  dinner  and  came  only 
12  miles.  Was  escorted  by  Lieutenant  Guodiana  and 
a  military  party.  Mr.  Davenport's  brother-in-law,  who 
was  taking  in  some  money,  also  accompanied  us. 

"  Don  Francis  Viana,  adjutant  and  inspector  of  the 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  365 

Internal  provinces,  who  commanded  at  Nacogdoches, 
is  an  old  and  veteran  officer,  and  was  one  of  those  who 
came  to  America  at  the  same  time  with  Colonel  Cordero. 
Possessing  a  mind  of  frankness,  he  unfortunately  spoke 
his  opinions  too  freely  in  some  instances,  which,  finding 
their  way  to  court,  prevented  his  promotion.  But  he  is 
highly  respected  by  his  superiors,  and  looked  up  to  as 
a  model  of  military  conduct  by  his  inferiors.  He  un- 
fortunately does  not  possess  flexibility  sufficient  to  be 
useful  in  the  present  state  of  the  Spanish  kingdoms.  He 
is  the  officer  who  caused  Major  Sparks  and  Mr.  Free- 
man to  return  from  their  expedition  on  the  Red  river. 

''Sunday,  June  2%th,     Marched  early  and  at  nine 

o'clock  crossed  the  little  river  called ,  whence  we 

pushed  on  in  order  to  arrive  at  the  house  of  a  French- 
man, [about  nine]  miles  distant  from  the  Sabine.  We 
stopped  at  a  house  on  the  road,  where  the  heutenant 
informed  me  an  American  by  the  name  of  Johnson 
lived;  but  was  surprised  to  find  he  had  crossed  the 
line  with  his  family,  and  a  French  family  in  his  place. 
When  we  began  conversing  with  them  they  were  much 
alarmed,  thinking  we  had  come  to  examine  them,  and 
expressed  great  attachment  to  the  Spanish  government. 
They  were  somewhat  astonished  to  find  I  was  an  Ameri- 
can officer;  and  on  my  companions  stepping  out,  ex- 
pressed themselves  in  strong  terms  of  hatred  to  the 
Spanish  nation.  I  excused  them  for  their  weakness,  and 
gave  them  a  caution.  Fine  land,  well  watered  and  tim- 
bered; hickory,  oak,  sugar-tree,  etc.     Distance  40  miles. 

^'  June  2gth,     Our  baggage  and  horses  came  up  about 


366  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

ten  o'clock,  when  we  dispatched  them  on.  Marched 
ourselves  at  two  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the  river  Sabine 
by  Rve,  Here  we  saw  the  cantonment  of  the  Spanish 
troops,  when  they  were  commanded  by  Colonel  Her- 
rara,  in  the  late  affair  between  the  two  governments. 
Crossed  the  Sabine  river  and  came  about  one  league  on 
this  side,  to  a  little  prairie,  where  we  encamped.  Dis- 
tance 15  miles. 

In  crossing  the  Sabine  River  Pike  and  his  party  are 
once  more  in  the  new  American  possessions  known  as 
the  Louisiana  Purchase,  the  Sabine  River  being,  then 
as  now,  the  boundary  Hne  between  Louisiana  and  Texas. 
He  has  been  following  the  old  Spanish  trail,  camping 
near  Crockett,  Angeline,  San  Augustine,  and  is  now 
near  Many,  where  he  fixes  the  site  of  the  *'  marquee  "  of 
General  Wilkinson.  Here  he  bids  adieu  to  his  Spanish 
escort.  This  was  commanded  by  Lieutenant  J.  Echarria 
to  whom  he  had  been  transferred  at  San  Antonio  by  his 
good  friend,  Lieutenant  Malgares. 

"Parted  with  Lieutenant  Guodiana  and  our  Spanish 
escort.  Here  I  think  proper  to  bear  testimony  to  the 
politeness,  civility,  and  attention  of  all  the  officers  who 
at  different  periods  and  in  different  provinces  com- 
manded my  escort,  but  in  a  particular  manner  to  Mal- 
gares and  Barelo,  who  appeared  studious  to  please  and 
accommodate,  all  that  lay  in  their  power;  also,  the  ob- 
liging, mild  dispositions  evinced  in  all  instances  by  the 
rank  and  file.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Sabine  I  went 
up  to  a  house,  where  I  found  10  or  15  Americans  hover- 
ing near  the  line,  in  order  to  embrace  an  opportunity  of 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  367 

carrying  on  some  illicit  commerce  with  the  Spaniards, 
who  on  their  side  were  equally  eager.  Here  we  found 
Tharp  and  Sea,  who  had  been  old  sergeants  in  General 
Wayne's  army. 

''June.  ^oth.  Marched  early  and  came  to  a  house 
at  a  small  creek,  where  lived  a  Dutch  family  named 
Faulk,  and  where  we  left  a  small  roan  horse  which  had 
given  out.  Marched  12  miles  further  to  a  large  bayou, 
where  had  been  an  encampment  of  our  troops,  which  I 
recognized  by  its  form,  and  took  pleasure  in  imagining 
the  position  of  the  general's  marquee  and  the  tents  of  my 
different  friends  and  acquaintances.   Distance  28  miles. 

''July  1st.  Finding  that  a  horse  of  Dr.  Robinson's, 
which  had  come  all  the  way  from  Chihuahua,  could  not 
proceed,  was  obliged  to  leave  him  here.  Yesterday  and 
to-day  passed  many  Choctaws,  whose  clothing,  furni- 
ture, etc.,  evidently  marked  the  superiority  of  situation 
of  those  who  bordered  on  our  frontiers,  to  that  of  the 
naked,  half-starved  wretches  whom  we  found  hang- 
ing round  the  Spanish  settlements.  Passed  a  string  of 
huts,  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  our  troops,  and 
at  a  small  run  a  fortified  camp  but  half  a  mile  from  the 
hill  where  anciently  stood  the  village  Adyes.  We  pro- 
ceeded to  a  spring  where  we  halted  for  our  loads. 
Finding  the  horses  much  fatigued,  and  not  able  to  pro- 
ceed, we  left  them  and  baggage  and  proceeded.  We 
arrived  at  Natchitoches  about  4  p.  m. 

"Language  cannot  express  the  gayety  of  my  heart 
when  I  once  more  beheld  the  standard  of  my  country 
waved  aloft.     'All  hail'  cried  I,  *the  ever  sacred  name 


368  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

of  country,  in  which  is  embraced  that  of  kindred, 
friends,  and  every  other  tie  which  is  dear  to  the  soul 
of  man!'  Was  affectionately  received  by  Colonel  Free- 
man, Captains  Strong  and  Woolston craft.  Lieutenant 
Smith,  and  all  the  officers  of  the  post," 

When  Pike  reached  Natchitoches  he  found  there  a 
letter  from  General  Wilkinson,  who  had  believed  him 
dead,  until  informed  otherwise  by  General  Salcedo. 
The  general,  in  expressing  his  gratification  and  his 
regret  that  Pike  should  have  missed  the  source  of  the 
Red  River,  which  was  part  of  his  errand,  writes: 
"Yet  I  promise  myself  that  the  route  over  which  you 
have  passed  will  afford  some  interesting  scenes  as  well 
to  the  statesman  as  the  philosopher."  This  letter  con- 
cludes with  the  gratifying  statement  that  ''The  President 
mentioned  you  and  your  explorations  to  the  source  of 
the  great  river,  in  his  address  to  Congress  in  handsome 
terms." 

To  this  letter  Pike  returned  an  answer  relating  his 
Spanish  experiences,  and  it  is  in  keeping  with  that  con- 
sideration that  he  showed  for  all  his  companions  that 
he  urges  the  claims  of  the  faithful  Baroney  still  with 
Sergeant  Meek,  and  the  fidelity  of  his  men.  To  Dr. 
Robinson  he  pays  the  following  tribute: 

"Dr.  Robinson  has  accompanied  me  the  whole  route, 
is  still  with  me,  and  I  take  pleasure  in  acknowledging 
I  have  received  important  services  from  him,  as  my 
companion  in  dangers  and  hardships,  counselor  in  dif- 
ficulties, and  one  to  whose  chemical,  botanical,  and 


MONUMENT    OVER    THE    GRAVE    OF    GENERAL    PIKE    AT 
SACKETT'S  HARBOR,  N.  Y. 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  369 

mineralogical  knowledge  the  expedition  is  greatly  in- 
debted— in  short,  Sir,  he  is  a  young  gentleman  of  tal- 
ents, honor,  and  perseverance,  possessing,  in  niy  hum- 
ble opinion,  a  mihtary  turn  of  mind,  and  would  enter,  I 
believe,  in  case  of  an  augmentation  of  the  army,  if  he 
could  obtain  a  rank  above  a  subaltern." 

The  letter  concludes : 

"  I  have  been  obliged  to  draw  money  of  the  Spanish 
government,  which  I  have  to  pay  to  their  ambassador 
at  Washington.  I  supported  those  of  my  men  who  were 
with  me  all  the  time  in  the  Spanish  country.  Being  sep- 
arated from  my  baggage  and  never  permitted  to  have 
it  join  me,  and  having  been  presented  to  the  command- 
ant-general in  a  blanket  cap;;^o*:,  I  was  under  the  neces- 
sity of  going  to  very  considerable  expense  to  support 
what  I  considered  not  only  my  honor,  but  the  dignity 
of  our  army.  This,  when  a  captain's  pay  is  ^^2,400  per 
annum,  was  a  ruinous  thing  to  my  finances;  but  I  hope 
it  may  be  taken  into  due  consideration. 

"After  making  myself  pretty  perfect  in  the  French 
language,  I  have  obtained  such  a  knowledge  of  the 
Spanish  as  to  make  me  confident  in  asserting,  in  three 
or  four  years  I  will  with  ease  make  myself  sufficiently 
master  of  the  latter,  Italian,  and  Portuguese,  to  read 
them  all,  and  speak  and  write  Spanish.  The  doctor 
has  even  exceeded  me  in  that  point.  I  mention  this  to 
the  general,  as  I  know  the  interest  he  takes  in  the  im- 
provement of  his  military  protege." 

It  is  apparent  that  in  Pike's  intimacy  with  the  Spanish 
officers  the  possible  capture  of  the  throne  of  Spain  by 


370  Zebulon  M.  Pike 

Napoleon  was  a  frequent  topic  of  conversation.  In  this 
case  Spain  would  look  to  the  United  States,  and  the 
independence  of  Mexico  would  follow.  In  such  a  pro- 
spective campaign  his  experiences  in  that  country  would 
fit  him  for  a  leading  part.  This  he  outlines  in  a  sub- 
sequent report  to  the  Government: 

"  Twenty  thousand  auxiliaries  from  the  United  States 
under  good  officers,  joined  to  the  independents  of  the 
country,  are  at  any  time  sufficient  to  create  and  effect 
the  revolution.  These  troops  can  be  raised  and  offi- 
cered in  the  United  States,  but  paid  and  supplied  at  the 
expense  of  Mexico.  It  would  be  requisite  that  not  only 
the  general  commanding,  but  that  every  officer,  down  to 
the  youngest  ensign,  should  be  impressed  with  the  neces- 
sity of  supporting  a  strict  discipline,  to  prevent  maraud- 
ing, which  should  in  some  instances  be  punished  with 
death,  in  order  to  convince  the  citizens  that  we  come 
as  their  friends  and  protectors,  not  as  their  plunderers 
and  tyrants.  Also,  the  most  sacred  regard  should  be 
paid  not  to  injure  the  institutions  of  their  religion;  there- 
by showing  them  we  have  a  proper  respect  for  all  things 
in  any  way  connected  with  the  worship  of  the  Deity,  at 
the  same  time  that  we  permit  every  man  to  adore  him 
agreeably  to  the  dictates  of  his  own  judgment. 

"The  details  requisite  for  the  equipment,  organiza- 
tion, etc.,  of  the  corps,  so  as  to  adapt  it  to  the  locality 
of  the  country  and  the  nature  of  the  service,  could  be 
easily  formed,  but  would  be  impertinent  here. 

"  Should  an  army  of  Americans  ever  march  into  the 
country,  and  be  guided  and  governed  by  these  maxims. 


Through  Texas  to  Louisiana  371 

they  will  only  have  to  march  from  province  to  province 
in  triumph,  and  be  hailed  by  the  united  voices  of  grate- 
ful millions  as  their  deliverers  and  saviors,  whilst  our 
national  character  resounds  to  the  most  distant  nations 
of  the  earth." 

Pike's  last  act  at  Natchitoches  was  to  keep  faith  with 
the  unfortunate  men  of  Captain  Nolan's  party  held 
prisoners  by  the  Spaniards.  This  he  does  in  a  long  let- 
ter relating  the  circumstances  of  their  capture  and  pre- 
sent condition  addressed  to  the  "  Editors  of  Gazettes  in 
the  States,"  that  their  friends  might  "receive  the  melan- 
choly assurance  of  their  existence,"  and  the  Govern- 
ment interfere  in  their  behalf.  This  work  of  benevo- 
lence accomplished.  Pike  left  to  join  his  family,  and 
again  to  take  up  his  career  as  soldier.  The  visions  of 
future  usefulness  and  military  distinction  that  Pike 
oudined  in  his  letter  to  General  Wilkinson  he  could 
not  foresee  were  not  to  be  realized  against  the  French 
or  Spaniards  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande,  but 
against  the  English  on  the  waters  of  our  Northern 
boundary  in  the  war  of  18 12.  The  capture  of  Fort 
York,  on  Lake  Ontario,  the  present  site  of  Toronto, 
and  the  dramatic  incidents  of  his  death,  rounded  out 
his  brief  life  of  thirty-six  years.  The  lives  of  few  great 
Americans  present  an  equal  record  of  patriotic  devo- 
tion, uprightness  of  character,  personal  sacrifice,  and 
ability  in  deahng  with  varied  and  difficult  tasks. 


INDEX 


Adams,  Fort,  137. 

Adams,  Lieut.,  339,  340. 

Adyes,  village,  367. 

Aird,  James,  16. 

AUencaster,  Governor,  255,  272,  278, 

291. 
Almansa  d'.  Captain,  275,  278,  281, 

294,  296. 
Anderson,  George,  79,    brother    of, 

112. 
Apache     Indians,     296-303,     305; 

prisoners,  336. 
Arkansas  River,  208,  211,  236. 

Ballinger,  Sergeant,  140. 

Barelo,  Captain,  331,  332,  333,  366. 

"Baroney,"  Vasquez,  138,  144,  183, 

192,  213,  228,  238,  368. 
Barr  and  Davenports,  settlement  of, 

366. 
Bashier,  Major,  345. 
Beau,  Chippewa,  82,  88,  96. 
Bellefontaine,  130,  134. 
Belle   Oiseau,    Pawnee   chief,    155; 

son  of,  170,  181,  182,  195. 
Big  Soldier,  145, 
Blondeau,  M.,  16,  17,  127. 
Boley,  John,  private,  6,  69,  70,  89. 
"Bostonian,  The,"  100. 
Bradley,  Henry,  Corporal,  5,  13,  43, 

54,  60,  66,  89,  107. 
Branden,  Peter,  private,  6. 
Brasses  River,     ^ee  Brazos. 
Brazos  River,  336,  363. 
"Brelaw,"  badger,  40. 
Brown,    Clarissa.     See   Mrs.    Pike 
Brown,  John,  private,  6,    216,    244. 
Brusky,  Charles,  67. 
Buck,  Chippewa,  79,  88,  96. 
Burling,  Mr.  328. 
Burlington,  Iowa,  12. 
Burnt,  Chippewa,  79. 
Burr,  Aaron,  279,  307,  313. 


Caberairt,     Don     Antonio,     314; 

Senora  Maria  Con.,  313. 
Cahatonga.     See  Cheveux  Blancs. 
Calumet  dance,  100. 
Cameron,  Murdock,  28,  29,  32,  112. 
Carter,  Jacob,  private,  6,  262. 
Carver,  explorer,  iii. 
Cass  Lake,  75. 
Characterish,  Pawnee  chief,  177, 183, 

189,  193. 
Chartron,  Dr.,  141. 
Cheveux  Blancs   148,  158-160. 
Chewockomen,  71. 
Cheyenne  peak,  219. 
Chien  Blanche,  his  family,  58,  99. 
Chihuahua,  city  of,  308,  318,  319. 
Chippewa  tribe,  27;    origin  of,  40; 

fight,  41;  encampment,  62;  canoes, 

63;   lodges,  71;    council,  81,  83, 

130. 
Chouteau,  C.  M.,  151,  167. 
Ciudad  Porfirio  Diaz,  342. 
Claiborne's,  Governor,  gun,  314. 
Clark,  18,  191. 
Clear  Water,  41. 
Cogquilla,  330. 
Colly,  Solomon,  273,  278. 
Comanche.     See  Tetans. 
Cordero,    Don  Antonio,    Governor, 

312,  349,  353,  369- 
Croix,  M.  de,  335. 
Crow  Wing  River,  61. 
Curly  Head,  Chippewa  warrior,  64. 

Dearborn,  General  Henry,  viii,  x. 
De    Breche,    Chippewa    chief,    90, 

102,  103. 
Des  Moines  River,  9,  10. 
Dickson,  Robert,  trader,  54,  56,  92, 

94,  106,  III. 
Door  of  the  Prison  River,  :i^^. 
Dougherty,  Thomas,  private,  6,  242, 

255. 


373 


374 


Index 


Dubuque,  13,  125. 
Dunbar,  Mr.  229,    278. 

Eagle  Pass,  342. 
Echarria,  Lieut.  J.,  366. 
Eddy,  Corporal,  127. 
"Eden,"  8. 

El  Paso,  304,  305,  340. 
Encina,  Hacienda  of,  341. 
Ewing,  William,  agent,  14. 

Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  ^2>  treaty, 

38,  109. 
Fandango,  293. 
Faulk,  Dutch  family,  367. 
Ferara,  Captain  de,  339. 
Feribault,  Mr.,  30. 
Fernandez,  Don  Bartholemew,  259, 

273,  278,  280,  281. 
Fero,  David,  314-316. 
Fisher,  trader,  18,  35,  146. 
Flat  Mouth,  Chippewa  chief,  81,  86. 
Florida,  village  of,  339. 
Fols  Avoins,  55,  108. 
Fort,  building,  249 ;  Crow  River,  42 ; 

Elisiraira,   305;    Madison;    Snel- 

ling,  30;    St.  Nicolas,  18;    York, 

Capture  of,  371. 
"Four  Brothers,"  6. 
Fox  tribe,  14;  war  party,  25;  legend, 

96,  119,  126,  139. 
Frank,  Pawnee,  185,  187. 
Frazer,  Mr.  18,  20-24,  27, 32, 39,  iii. 
Freeman,  Colonel,  368. 
Fremont,  General,  219. 
Frenchman's  dinner,  347. 
Fresaie,  Chippewa  chief,  92. 

Galena  River,  15. 

Games,  ball,  120,  187. 

Garcia,  Don  Francisco,  303. 

Gasconade  River,  142,  143. 

Gens  des  Feuilles,  Sioux  tribe,  55, 

57,  "o- 
Gens  du  Lac,  no. 
Gorden,  William,  private,  6,  262. 
"Grand  Encampment,"  26. 
Grant,     Mr.,     trader,    64-69,     88; 

visit  of,  loi. 
Grant's  prairie,  14. 
Greignor,  Frenchman,  94,  96. 
Griffith,  deserter,  341. 


Guerra,  Father  Ambrosio,  284. 
Guloo,  Don  Hymen,  332,  338,  340. 
Guodiana,  Lieutenant,  364,  366. 

Hacienda  of  Pattos,  338. 

Hannibal,  Missouri,  8. 

Harrison,  John    Cleve   Symmes,  vi. 

Harvard,  Mount,  223. 

Henderson,   Martin,  story  of,  343- 

346. 
Henry,  George,  139,  148. 
Herrara,  Governor,  349,  353,  355. 
Huddleston,  Solomon,  private,  6, 149. 
Huerfano  River,  216. 
Hughes,  Lieut.,  129. 
Hurricane  Island,  8. 

Iskatappe.    See  Characterish. 

Jackson,  Corporal,  262. 
Jarreau,  of  Cahokia,  117. 
Jefferson,     President,     message    to 
Congress,  368. 

Kansas  tribe,  151,  172;  Council, 
184,  190. 

Karamone,  Puant  chief,  123. 

Kennerman,  Henry,  5,  43;  instruc- 
tions to,  44;  reduced,  94;  deser- 
tion of,  138. 

Keokuk,  city  of,  10. 

Killeur  Rouge,  Sioux,  55,  92. 

Labardie,  163. 

La  Charette,  village,  139,  141. 

La  Crosse,  24,  26,  116. 

La  Feuille,  Sioux  chief,  20-24,  25; 

jealousy  of,  121. 
La  Jeunesse,  trader,  letter  to,  106. 
Lake  Pepin,  28,  116. 
Lake  Winnebigoshi,  75. 
Lalande,  Baptiste,  252,  267,  270. 
Lang  Sue,  Lake.    See  Leech  Lake. 
Larme,  Baptiste,  159. 
Le  Becasse,  Sioux  chief,  sSf  34- 
Le  Boeuf  qui  Marche,  Sioux  chief, 

33,  34. 

Le  Claire,  15. 

Le  Demi  Douzen,  Sioux  chief,  ^Sf  34- 

Lee  Panes.     See  Lipans. 

Leech  Lake,  59,  68. 

Le  Fils  de  Pinchot,  Sioux  chief,  33^ 

34.  "o. 


Index 


375 


Le  Grand  Partisan,  Sioux  chief,  S3y 

34- 
Lewis  and  Clark,  i8,  191. 
Lewis,  Capt.,  131. 
Lipans,  Indian  tribe,  348. 
Little  Crow.     See  Petit  Corbeau. 
Little  Elk  Rapid,  59. 
Little  Thunder,  Winnebago,  123. 
Little  Village,  161. 
Liza,  Manuel  de,  139,  155,   159. 
Lockwood,  Captain,  340. 
L'Origlnal  Leve,  war  chief,  33,  34. 
L'Ron6,  guide,  88,  89. 

Magdalen,  mountains  of,  296. 
Malgares,  Lieutenant,  179,  290,  292- 

294,  296,  298,  306,  329-331,  366. 
Many,  Captain,  126,  129. 
Marion  City,  8. 
Martin  Chuzzlewit,  8. 
Maugraine,  163. 
Maupemie,  village  of,  333. 
Mayner,  Lieut.  Col.,  312,  323. 
Medano  Pass,  247. 
Medicine  dance,  163. 
Meek,  William  E.,  Corporal,  6,  52, 

91,  256,  312. 
Melcher,  Don,  340,  342. 
Menaugh,  Hugh,  private,  6, 246,  256, 

262. 
Menominee.     See  Fols  Avoins. 
Merior,  Major,  178. 
M'Gillis,   Hugh,   trader,    74;    letter 

to  76;  letter  from,  77;  hospitality, 

S8. 
M'Guire,  Father,  351. 
Michilimackinac,  94,  96. 
Miller,  Theodore,  private,  6;    hun- 
ter, 48,  71,  216,  224,  228,  233,  256, 

262. 
Miquel,  Marquis  de  San,  335,  337, 

33^>  339. 
Montelovez,  339. 
Morrison,   James,  139;    Wm.,  252, 

268. 
Mountain  of  the  Dead,  303. 
Mountjoy,    John,    private,    6,    228, 

262. 


Nacogdoches,  364. 
Natchitoches,  367. 


Nolan,  Capt.  Phillip,  273,  314-316, 

371- 
North  Western   Company,   65,   67, 
68j  70,  76. 

Osage  tribe,   164-166;  prisoners, 

129,  138,  143;   river,  144. 
Outard  Blanche,  chief,  35. 
O wings,  David,  private,  6,  53. 

Painted  Rock,  116. 

Pakagama  Falls,  71. 

Passo  del  Norte.     See  El  Paso. 

Paulier,  Mr.,  106. 

Pawnee  tribe,  captives,  138  ;  Repub- 
lic, 171;  village,  176;  Coimcil,  184, 
191;   hunt,  194,  213. 

Petit  Corbeau,  Sioux  chief,  32, 33, 35, 
III. 

Pigeon  Roosts,  128. 

Pike's  Peak,  210,  211,  218,  219,  221, 

239- 

Pike,  Z.  M.,  birth,  v;  cadet,  vi;  mar- 
riage, vi;  at  St.  Louis,  vii;  in  Wash- 
ington, viii;  at  Fort  McHenry,  ix; 
disciplinarian,  ix;  Brigadier  Gen- 
eral, ix;  letter  to  his  father,  x; 
death,  xi;  route,  10,  29,  68,  80, 
90,  116,  148,  171,  180,  196,  211, 
216,  222,  231,  238,  247,  251,  304, 
342,  366. 

Pike,  Mrs.,  vi,  125,  127. 

Pike's  island.     Pike's  tent,  xii. 

Pine  Camp,  92. 

Pine  Creek  Rapids,  44. 

Portage  de  Sioux,  8,  129. 

Potowatomies,  138. 

Prado,  Father  Joseph,  304. 

Prairie  du  Chien,  4,  7,  18,  116,  146. 

Pratt,  deserter,  340. 

Puants,  15,  119;  council,  121,  123. 

Pueblo,  217. 

Ranche  de  St.  Antonio,  336. 

Raven,  Fox  chief,  15. 

Recovery,  defeat  at,  207. 

Red  Cedar  Lake,  64,  66;  march  to, 

80. 
Red  River,  search  for,  225,  227,  239. 
Red  Thunder,  Yanctongs  chief,  121. 
Red  Wing,  Sioux  chief,  29. 


376 


Index 


Reinville,  Joseph,  19,  39. 

Rey,  Don  Pedro  Roderique,  304. 

Reynards.     See  Fox. 

Reynol,  Abbe,  157. 

Rio  del  Norte.     See  Rio  Grande. 

Rio  Grande,  247,  260,  263  282,  297. 

Rivers  and  Creeks,  Angeline,  365; 
Arkansas,  137,  169,  196,  199,  200, 
208,  211,  224;  Brazos,  336,  363; 
Buffalo,  6;  Clear  Water,  41,  49; 
Conchos,  318,  330;  Cottonwood, 
172;  Des  Moines,  10;  Florida, 
331;  Fountain,  217;  Galena,  15; 
Gasconade,  142,  143;  Grand, 
150;  Grand  Rapids,  106;  Grape 
Creek,  239,  263;  Huerfano,  216, 
247;  Illinois,  6;  Kansas,  196; 
La  Platte,  222,  236;  Little  Osage, 
169;  Mariano,  349;  Mine,  153; 
Nueces,  349;  Neosho,  150;  Osage, 
144,  150;  Ouisconsing.  See  Wis- 
consin; Pawnee,  200;  Pine 
Creek,  62;  Pine  Rapids,  44,  92; 
Republican,  180;  fork  of,  175; 
Red,  225,  246,  260,  276,  361; 
Rio  Grande,  249,  251,  260,  271, 
282,  286,  287,  296,  371;  Rio 
Conejos,  266;  Rock,  14;  Sabine, 
365;  Solomon,  176;  Smoky  Hill, 
172;  St.  Croix,  29;  St.  Charles, 
216;  St.  Peters,  30;  Ten  Mile 
Creek,  224;  Turkey  Creek,  219; 
Vermillion,  150;  Verdigris,  171; 
Wisconsin,  4;  Walnut  Creek,  197; 
Yellowstone,  236. 

Robinson,  Dr.  John  H.,  138,  144, 
163,  197,  200,  228,  229;  leaves 
249,  287;  his  story,  288-291,  310, 
367;  tribute  to,  370. 

Rock  River,  14. 

RoUett,  Mr.  trader,  115. 

Roman  Nose,  114. 

Rosseau,  Pierre,  19. 

Roussand,  Mr.,  79. 

Roy,  Alexander,  private,  6,  96,  262 

Royal  Gorge,  222,  238. 

Rubi,  Father,  283. 

Rudsell,  John,  28. 

Sabine  River,  365. 

Sable,  Lake  de,  66,  87. 

Sacs,  10;    war  party,  25,  128,  139. 


Salcedo,  General,  308-310,  313;  let- 
ter to,  315;  remonstrance,  326,  343. 

Saltelo  Don  Ignatio,  259. 

San  Antonio,  349. 

San  Luis  Valley,  247. 

Sand  Hill  Pass.     See  Medano. 

Sandy  Lake.     See  de  Sable. 

Sangre  de  Cristo  Range,  211,  239, 
242. 

Sans  Oreille,  Osage,  144,  145,  149, 
152,  168. 

Santa  Fe,  271. 

Saramende,  Don  Pedro  Rues,  307. 

Sauteurs.     See  Chippewa. 

Shawonoe,  Fols  Avoin  chief,  99. 

Sioux,  7,  15,  20;  dance,  22;  legend, 
28;  village,  29;  burial,  31; 
camps,  32;  council,  :^y,  band  37; 
sentinel,  91,  no,  119,  130. 

Smith,  Lieut.,  368. 

Smith,  Patrick,  private,  6,  238. 

Soulard,  Anthony,  8. 

Spanish  customs,  319-323. 

Spanish  officers,  intimacy  with,  370. 

Spanish  spies,  253,  261,  263. 

Spanish  troops,  356-350. 

Sparks,  hunter,  9,  92,  196,  197,  222, 
242,  255.  ^ 

Sparks,  Major,  178. 

St.  Domingo,  village  of,  281. 

St.  John,  village,  266;   priest,  269. 

St.  Lorenzo,  priest  of,  337. 

St.  Phillips,  village  of,  282. 

Stoute,  Freegift,  private,  6,  233,  262. 

Strong,  Captain,  368. 

Sussitongs,  war  dance  of,  58,  no. 

Sweet,  Chippewa,  79;  pipe  stem  of, 
80. 

Tancards,  lodges  of,  360-361. 

Terre,  Chief  de  la,  86. 

Tetans,    tribe,    135,  137,  176,  219, 

222. 
Thomas,  Fols  Avoin  chief,  93. 
Thompson,  David,  explorer,  80. 
Tonnerre  Rouge.    See  Red  Thunder. 
Toronto,  371. 
Tousac,  village  of,  292. 
Trainer.     See  Henderson. 
Turkey    River,    16;     Island,    131; 

Creek,  239. 
Tuttasuggy,  145,  162. 


Index 


377 


Ugarte,  Captain,  350. 

Valesco,  Francis,  311. 

Vallois.     Senora    Marguerite,    312, 

323- 
Viana,  Captain,  178;    Don  Francis, 

364. 
Villamil,  Captain,  311,  314,  323. 

Wabasha w,  Sioux  chief,  116,  120. 
Walker,  Don  Pedro,  311. 
Walker,  Lieut.,  309,  314,  327-329. 
Whelpley,  David,  private,  6, 
Whiting,  General,  ix,  xii. 
Wild  Horses,  206, 361-363. 


Wilkinson,  General  James,  order, 
2-5,  83,  117,  131,  134,  155,  156, 
366,  368,  369-371- 

Wilkinson,  Lieut.  James  B.,  138, 
142-147,  174,  177,  199,  203,  305. 

Wind,  alias  Little  Chief,  160. 

Wind  that  Walks,  Sioux,  114. 

Winnebago      See  Puants. 

Wishtonwish,  201-203. 

Wood,  trader,  iii. 

Woolstoncraft,  Captain,  368. 

Yanctongs,  war  dance,  58,  no. 

Zerbin,  Dr.,  351. 

Zuloaga,  Don  Manuel,  311,  314,  324. 


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BERKELEY 

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